San Sebastian (SPAIN) - bite size sightseeing, pintxos style

San Sebastian (Spain)

09 September - 10 September 2015

San Sebastian is an incredible place to me. It has everything that you could want from a coastal destination, great beaches, a wonderful, quiet bay, beautiful scenery, the most bars per capita in Spain, Michelin star restaurants such as Mugaritz & Arzak, tapas galore and a gorgeous climate. Once again however, I seemed like the only one in that car that could understand what the rest of the world understood, that this place was (is) truly fantastic. I don't know whether it was too hot, people were too tired or just plain uninterested but there was no real impetus to have a look around and enjoy the place. This trip had become a perpetual frustration, and as I mentioned in my write up on Toledo, a true opportunity missed.

What you miss if you don't look around are the golden beaches, especially the long sweeping playa de la Concha which is the epicentre of the cities outdoor activities. Then there' the iconic Isla Santa Clara at the entrance to the bay which itself is framed by beautiful, lush mountains all around. On the other side of town you'll encounter your more 'rolling wave' type of scene with surfboards at playa Zurriola. For me however the real treat are the proliferation of tapas bars and the nature of the food they provide, there's just an abundance of all things wonderful that the trap is wanting to try everything and not really giving yourself the time to appreciate a few. Simply savouring the moment. That's the thing, limiting your time pushes you to limit your appreciation.

I'll come back to San Sebastian, of that I'm sure. Spain is one of those countries that is always at the forefront of my mind when it comes to travel, its just a shame that this time the stop was underdone and underwhelming through no fault of its own.

San Sebastian - Spain

San Sebastian - Spain

San Sebastian - Spain

San Sebastian - Spain

 San Sebastian - Spain

San Sebastian - Spain

Basque flag - San Sebastian - Spain

San Sebastian - Spain

San Sebastian - Spain

Playa la Concha - San Sebastian - Spain

Toledo (SPAIN) - 'nearly'

Toledo (Spain) - Madrid (Spain)

08 September - 09 September 2015

Like so many places on this trip, Toledo was an opportunity missed.

I had heard that Toledo was the one time capital of Spain but I can't find anything that verifies that suspicion. I've found out that Toledo served as the capital of Castile intermittently, then I found that Charles I of Spain's court was in Toledo and served as the Imperial capital. Later on, the Spanish court was moved to Madrid. Still, this doesn't give me the green light to actually have called Toledo a country capital.

Going back further, apparently in the 7th century, the city 'emerged from relative obscurity to become the permanent governmental centre of the Visigothic monarchy', that was from 542 to 725 AD.. So, that appears to be 'something', but not quite the 'head honcho' that you'd expect of a prime city. Still later, a few years before the 1100's Toledo became the capital city of one of the richest Taifas of Al-Andalus, a taifa being an independent Muslim-ruled principality. So, a capital? Again, perhaps, but definitely not of Spain. 

Close but not quite close enough Toledo. 

Toledo - Spain

Toledo - Spain

 Toledo - Spain

Toledo - Spain

What Toledo loses in 'prestige', or what I would call prestige, it definitely makes up for in terms of aesthetic appeal. Dramatically set atop a gorge overlooking the Rio Tajo, the 'city of three cultures' has a magnificence that lives up to the extend of its hidden treasures to. It's a city that should command attention and should draw tourists from far and wide, and I guess, to an extent, it does that...but when it comes to two Elishers' and two Janic's, that didn't quite happen.

An opportunity missed. We entered Toledo and immediately my mum wanted to have lunch, and of course have a drink. Which we ended up doing. Then, for some reason, both my mum and my aunt wanted to do some souvenier shopping. I don't know, that kind of mentality just didn't and doesn't make a whole load of sense to me. I would imagine, and this is me calling it out aloud, that you would probably want to have a look around the place first before you starting arranging various keepsake's for your bathrooms.

 Toledo - Spain

Toledo - Spain

Toledo - Spain

What's more, we only gave ourselves a couple of hours here, most of which were absolutely turfed by lunch in a very ordinary restaurant and buying stupid stuff that I'm sure they totally forgot about a day or so later. And perhaps it sounds a bit harsh but the crux of the matter is that was the dichotomy between my cousin and I and my mother and aunt, the whole trip was pulled in competing directions due conflicting views, differing priorities and physical capacity to do things. From my end, as unfortunate as it sounds, a large part of the excursion sucked in the fact that opportunities to see and do something of the real important things in those cities were substituted for things like need to have a 'drink somewhere' or getting ready for bed at 7pm. Let me just say, I will never, ever do a trip with them of that nature again. I have other ideas for them, it would probably involve lounging around a pool and have the capacity to get up from the sun bench and make it to the bar - that would be the extent of that.

Madrid - Spain

Madrid - Spain

Puerta del Sol - Madrid - Spain

After a few hours in Toledo we headed back to Madrid for an evening pit-stop, and that's really all it was. My aunt and mum went to bed early again, probably around 8am, and Vladimir probably joined in an hour or so later, tired from the drive that he had done that day. I took the opportunity to head out and walk around the city myself. Something that I like to do, just walk about with no real purpose or direction. Sometimes it pays dividends, and other times, well, you benefit from the exercise. Either way, walking around Madrid is never, ever a bad thing.

Lisbon (PORTUGAL) - another Seven Hills

Lisbon (Portugal)

06 September - 08 September 2015

The landscape out of Madrid as you head to the end of the continent is unchanging, almost unimaginative. Burnt, heat beaten, a country of various shades of brown extended relentlessly in front of the car dashboard. Riding shotgun can be a painful experience as the kilometers roll on buy and you wonder to yourself whether time passes differently when you're conscious of its transition. Somehow when time becomes the subject of focus then it appears to bask in its own innate control over all things.  That's the trick that time has up its sleeve, and your only real control over it is to cast it from your mind. To escape its grasp you need to escape its thought, thankfully sleep knows a trick or two regarding time's tyrannical rule. 

Arriving in Lisbon had felt somewhat momentous. We had effectively crossed the continent and were about to arrive at the launching point for the new world. From here you're able to see the edge of the world, and from there, Valhalla, perhaps? Or perhaps you can keep sailing and head-butt the Americas, if you were daring enough.

Ponte 25 Abril - Lisbon - Portugal

 Lisbon - Portgual

Lisbon - Portugal

Lisbon is an undeniably magical city and still, to an extent, not haunted by the ravages of populism, not yet at least. Inevitably it will get hit by the 'flavour of the month' wave,you can feel that its on its way. A city of this much beauty, not horrendously priced, it's placing itself in harms way.

We rolled into Lisbon on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, held high above the Targus on Ponte 25 Abril the city unfurled in front of us as we drove in from the south, terra cotta tiled buildings ofwhite, yellow and red colour, a rich tapestry being beaten by the Atlantic sun. Quite the impression after several hours of unrelenting monotony in the Iberian countryside.

Landing in the barrio of Baixa-Chiado we aimed up for the apartment that we'd reserved for a couple of days. That was problematic for the fact that we somehow failed to print off the reservation details for the place, didn't have internet access on our phones and encountered other 1st world digital problems. We ended up taking a fall back position at the fabulous Hotel do Chiado. This hotel and its accompanying view was just an absolute dream, let alone the incredible terrace that my cousin and I managed to hijack from our mothers. Apologies ladies but 'you snooze, you loose'. We were however gracious enough to invite the two ladies up for afternoon cocktails, so perhaps that made up for the way we poached the prime location from them.

Hotel do Chiado - Baixa-Chiado - Lisbon - Portugal

Hotel do Chiado - Baixa-Chiado - Lisbon - Portugal

Hotel do Chiado - Baixa-Chiado - Lisbon - Portugal

Hotel do Chiado - Baixa-Chiado - Lisbon - Portugal

Lisbon - Portugal

Lisbon - Portugal

Lisbon - Portugal

Looking out over the old part of town in front of us, the sun bouncing over off the terra cotta tiles and the Pombaline rococo, feet up, drink in hand and simply gazing out in admiration over what truly is an enchanting city, a large part of me felt quite content, even happy about the current situation. It was in fact a whole new beginning, a leap of fate of sorts. Packing up everything that we were accustomed to and heading to live in Serbia, whilst making sense, was still a change of substantial gravity. And whilst I can't say that I ever felt nervous or wrong about that decision I did secretly question myself as to how long it would last.  Only our good friend time could comfortably answer that question one way or the other.

Lisbon, a city of pure magic, also had its part to play. As the light faded out on our first day and we walked the cobbled amber lit streets, stepping across the tracks of the famed No.28 tram as we discovered more of our barrio. Ornate Moorish tiles adorned building facades, old weather beaten faces appeared on terraces and from behind large wooden doors as strains of Fado could be heard floating out of the occasional cafe or restaurant. You couldn't help but fall for a place like this.

Lisbon - Portugal

Castelo do Sao Jorge

The magnificent city of Lisbon with the September sun beating down

The nightlife in the city is juxtaposed perfectly with the atmosphere of the day. In Barrio Alto where my cousin and I went exploring, it was boisterous, loud, enchanting. There was music, the clinking of glasses, the sounds of cutlery hitting plates, waiters busily making there way through chairs and tables to take orders. The yellowish hues of lights stretching their arms to light streets and alleyways that were full, and apparently, are always so. It's the kind of vibrancy that has a gravitational pull, and much to my lament, is the type of environment that I use to long for in Sydney. On occasion I'd find pockets in Melbourne, for example Carlton, St.Kilda or Brunswick street. In Sydney, perhaps only Newtown ever felt like that to me. Here in Lisbon, it was just 'the way'. There's something cool about the authenticity of that feel, not needing to be unnecessarily manufactured.

At one time this city was not just the focal point of Europe but of the World itself. One of the richest and most influential in its time, the birthplace of the Age of Discovery, at the vortex of a global hub of trade and innovation, pulsing with the activities of traders, seafarers & conquistadors, they all left an indelible mark on a city that still basks in an old world glory but also carries it with noble dignity. It knows exactly where it came from and what it was, like a fading beauty whose self assurance can be witnessed by all just by being in their presence.

Lisbon - Portugal

The No.28 tram - on the way to Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

The No.28 tram - Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

Lisbon - Portugal

 The sun glimmering on the Targus river - Lisbon - Portugal

Vladimir at castelo de Sao Jorge - Lisbon - Portugal

The old area of Amalfa is a cobble stoned maze of alleyways that are lined by ancient houses, all clinging to the hill which eventually leads up to the castillo of Sao Jorge, a moorish piece of architecture which occupies a hilltop that holds epic views over the city. The magnificence is not just its architectural signature but also the light, its bright, sharp and somehow it bites. The way that the sun reflected off the Targus and bounded off the white buildings of the city, well, you couldn't ask more from any other jewel.

Castelo de Sao Jorge

Castelo de Sao Jorge - Lisbon - Portugal

Lisbon - Portugal

 Our apartment on Calcado do Combro - great view out to the Targus river - Lisbon - Portugal

Lisbon - Portugal

Lisbon - Portugal

A morning sunrise in Lisbon, and that can only mean one thing...time to leave

Lisbon is a special place. Hopefully its gets treated well in future, its not a place that needs to be lost to what too much appreciation can undeniably take away.

Madrid (SPAIN) - Acquiesce

Madrid (Spain)

05 SEP - 06 SEP 2015

Like that hot, uncomfortable, annoying breeze that sometimes catches you out, this was our stop in the wonderful city of Madrid. A day, to do and see what exactly, I wasn't quite sure, but the 'brain's trust' decided that was enough. So, aside from that boring element of discussion let me tell you of the story of my first arrival to Madrid in 2008.

Back then I thought 'English' was a good enough language to have in my arsenal if I wanted to move around. That's the typical Anglo centric view, speak louder, speak slower and a little more clearly, everyone should be able to understand you.

El toro negro en ruta a Madrid - Espana

Puerta del Sol - Madrid - Spain

Puerta del Sol - Madrid - Spain

The hotel I stayed at was on Calle Atocha, probably 10 mins walk from Plaza Mayor, about as central as you'd like to be in Madrid. After going through my usual 'settling in' period I went out for a walk in order to have a look what was a around, maybe check the nightlife a little and get a drink. Just a few blocks down there appeared to be an open plaza surrounded by some reasonable bars. I walked on in and took up residence. Spanish was being spoken all around me. At that time, just 'another' foreign language. I waited for the bartender to come over and ordered myself a beer. It was then probably two seconds after that point that I felt completely embarrassed. I was somewhere totally foreign, why should the people here accommodate me? To not even try or even think of doing so in someone elses language, well that was just plain ignorant. Right at that moment I promised myself that the next time I came to Madrid that I walk into this bar and order a drink in Spanish rather than arrogantly assuming that everyone around me should understand my English. 

In 2010 when I returned to Madrid I did just that. Same place, same bar, same order, just ordered in the 'local currency'. Since 2010 however I've made a conscious effort to learn the language to a level where now I feel comfortable enough to have a conversation. Admittedly its not the most difficult language in the world to learn but still, an achievement in itself.

So, here I was again, 7 years after my first stop in Madrid. Now with my family. 

How good does that place look!? - Madrid - Spain

Madrid - Spain

Parque Retiro - Madrid - Spain

Parque Retiro - Madrid - Spain

I quite often play a game with Inga where was ask each other 'if you could give your past self a snapshot of this moment do you think you'd be able to figure out how you got here?'  - My favourite one of those questions was the time I was in the car with Inga, her brother Davis and their father Jurijs. We were driving back from Vilnius in Lithuania and they had allowed me to drive for part of the way, getting practice in for driving on the 'right' side of the road. Inga asked me 'If someone had shown you this photo the night after you first met me in Riga, what would you have thought' - I had to consider that for a while, the only thing that I came up with was that I got drunk with the girl that I met in the bar and now we were making a run for it as we'd probably done something very stupid.

Parque Retiro - Madrid - Spain

Plaza de Santa Ana - Madrid - Spain

Protest in Puerta del Sol - Madrid - Spain

                                                 Early morning escape - on the way to Lisbon

Anyway, back to Madrid and the 'Madrid snapshot'. If someone had provided me of a shot of my aunt, cousin and mum in Madrid at the ages we were, then yes, I probably could have figured something close to the mark. The simple fact that my father wasn't there would have been enough of a clue to have figured out what was going on.

Madrid as a city is almost regal, it's buildings are elegant and stylish. There's a vibrancy and type of electricity here that you don't get in too many other places. There's bars a plenty,  tapas bars and little restaurants, but also that Mediterranean mentality that the night only really commences after midnight. The lifestyle here is tailored to good vibes, a great atmosphere and great fun. In all honesty, its one of my favourite European cities. It's hard to call it number one as Amsterdam & Paris certainly give it a hell of a run, but with that said, it rotates in and out of that number 1 spot with a fair amount of frequency,