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Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Mexico City - The Project



11 MAR - 12 MAR 2011

There's a couple of fundamental truths that you always carry around with yourself as a business analyst. At the start of any project you really need to define what the hell it is that you're doing, the purpose of the project and whether the purpose for which your time is being utilised is really at all fundamental to the overall strategy of the business. Then when you actually get to the point where you realise that the project is in play and you progress to nutting out what the requirements are and strictly defining them, your objective is to make sure that the requirements are clear, specific, measurable and valuable to the project outcome. If you do this successfully at the start of a project then aside from the inevitable road blocks and the occasional twist and turn that you'll encounter you should be in a 'der, winning' position. Then however there's the path that I more often than not chose, the lackadaisical, casual position where I accepted most any requirement on the proviso that people would stop whining to me about their pathetic lives. This was and is a problem. Over time as the cone of uncertainty widens you realise that the end game result of your lack of interest will come at a price and you will  be subject to burning questions of  your own self realisation and harsh accussations by the business. Questions such as what the hell is it that I'm doing and where did all that money go are not what you ever want to hear. As we crossed the border in Tijuana a few weeks earlier I had both the devil business analyst and the angelic business analyst fighting it out on my shoulders for supremacy.


Leaving Hostal Regina on what should have been our last day - Mexico City - Mexico

Hostal Regina - Mexico City - Mexico

The trigger point for the DEFCON 5 alert that went off in my head was the moment that we stepped off the bus and started walking down a poorly lit alley to the smokey, buzzing and slightly shady streets of TJ. I stopped perhaps 50 metres away from the turnstile like gate that signalled the frontier and commented to Frichot, 'Hey, we don't have an entry stamp, nor do we even know if we require a visa, we should probably ask someone'. So we turned on our heels and marched back to the border post that seemed to be suprisingly fluid in terms of their tolerance for the free and easy movement of people across the border. We did however manage to find an immigration official after several minutes and in turn asked him of our requirements. As the guy took a swig from his tequila bottle and spoke to us in that inimitable Mexican style, with its cantering rhythm and low drawn rumble on any word that contained an 'r' he explained the following. For Tijuana no entry stamp or visa was required but for travel further afield we would need a tourist visa which could be acquired at a cost of 220 pesos, the equivalent of $18AUD. Quickly processing the information I decided that the visa wouldn't be worthwhile and as silly as it may sound I had perfect reasoning. At the time our travels plans had us enterining TJ and then leaving back for LA in several days time in order to fly across the country to New York, also, our budget was being battered by excessive alcohol consumption, so a dollar saved at this point was going to be a dollar that we'd be able to consume in any friendly TJ bar. Ah yes, little was I to know at this point that the scope of our very own project was shifting and that with increasing subtlety our requirements were changing also.


Roll forward a couple of weeks to the foyer of Hostal Regina where I was planning to purchase plane tickets from Mexico City back to Tijuana (which would have been the right decision by the way). Jumping onto skyscanner I was just about to lock in Aeromexico flights to TJ when Patrick suggested to me that he could get discounted tickets to LA, 'Why not save yourself the hassle and fly direct, avoid the bus ride and in the end it will be CHEAPER'. Oh yeah, his words ring out loud like Big Ben even now. I looked at Frichot who was kind of in his own facebook land at the time and his only response was 'do it'.  I knew right then that the decision to ditch the visa option in Tijuana was going to make the flight out of Mexico an epic affair, and as that damn cone of uncertainty widened I intuitively felt that the cost of our naivety would somehow be paid back with epic outflow of pesos.

Come the day of departure we casually left the hostel after saying our goodbyes and made our way with ease to Benito Juarez, the international airport of Mexico City. Now the rigmarole of checking in, passing through customs and then immigration is always the most boring escapade of any excursion. I always thought that airports could do something a little more ingenious with their methodology, perhaps give out spot prizes for people waiting in those queues of misery or perhaps incorporate theme park roller coaster rides to get you from the check-in queue to your next port of business. Needless to say, the only drama that we encountered at check-in on this occasion was the Aeromexico staff member casually mentioning that our entry cards should be both viewed and then stamped by immigration prior to departure. There was not a hint at a problem at this point, our bags had been sent down the conveyor belt of 'no return' to the flight and was already in the process of sinking  pre-flight martini's with all their other hold luggage companions as we casually stolled away from the counter.


Casually wondering through the terminal - 'It's all cool honey bunny'

After wondering around the airport for an hour we decided to make our way through security, customs and immigration. Even this part of the process was a cruise, up until this point there hadn't been any issue raised at all. In my mind, once we'd jumped through customs and by-passed immigration any reservations that I may have had regarding the lack of visas was immediately alleviated. All we needed to do now was board the flight and sail away into the crimson Mexican evening. Of course that assumption was to be.......WRONG! (insert any buzzer sound you would like here!).


I literally should have read the signs - a 'Hello Mexico' sign on the way out did not bode well!

Sitting outside the boarding gates for a little while our flight opened its gate for boarding approximately 45 mins prior to the departure time. Jet and I traded idle chit chat whilst  standing in line and cheerily making our way to the counter in order to hand over our boarding passes. Then came the question, 'Can I see your immigration papers'. We handed them over. 'Oh sorry sir, you will need to go back to immigration and have these stamped. It's ok, you still have time but you will be required to go through security again'. Now whilst this sounded like just a minor inconvenience that incessant beating drum that had all but disappeared when we casually passed through customs was now pounding in my head like the buena vista social club had all simultaneously taken handfuls of viagra.

Catching an article on the Sydney Morning Herald site just yesterday under a  none too creative headline titled flightmares,  the 'hassled' and 'spurned' writer discusses the impossible and epic struggles that he had encountered whilst attempting to catch flights. All he really was referring to however was a spate of bad connections that he had suffered in his time, something that  easily could have been overcome if  he originally had the foresight to have left several hours between connecting flights rather than 45 mins! The process that we were only just being flung into now however, I think, was more deserved of a flightmare nomination. Casually we walked into the immigration office and asked the surly and kind of inane looking neanderthal to stamp our documents so that we could immediately split for our flight. He looks at us for a moment and mentions something about an entry stamp. I explain in turn that we entered Mexico  via Tijuana and that we were not provided with one at the border. Again he flicks through our passports and locates the entry stamp for the US. Looking skyward for a moment, which in turn could only have meant that he was trying to do some basic arithmetic, he takes out piece of paper, grunts and points to the first line.'¿Qué' I respond. He grunts yet again and points at the first line. I review the piece of paper and realise that he has produced a schedule of fines and he's pointing to the first item on the list, a 1186 peso ($95 AUD) fine for being in the country for 20-30 days without a visa. My immediate response is to argue, it's what I'm good at and what I do in situations such as these. I completely drop any of my basic Spanish that might actually have eased tensions and go into explaining the situation, how customs/immigration at the border was non-existant and how our flight was going to leave in 30 mins. He looks at us in a type of vacant, annoyed manner, grunts yet again whilst point to the fine and then mentions something about going to terminal one. At this point I'm losing my cool a little and I raise my voice, 'what mate, what do you want me to do in terminal one? Is there a party there or something?'.  He's relentless though, he simply pushes the schedule towards me and says 'You pay fine in terminal one'. As the minutes tick away and I realise that a fine is the only way to save us I try the dodgy alternative and offer him a bribe in order to stamp the passport/documents, but this bastard doesn't fold. What I also realise as the minutes tick past is that any opportunity that we may have had to make it back to terminal one in order to pay the fine was lone gone, tracking their and back is a distance and a luxury which we now can't afford. The only shot that we had now, other than bribing this dumb ass was to plead our case back at the boarding gate.

Now really, how ridiculous is this. You can by-pass security, customs and an ignorant immigration official in this airport and make it all the way to the boarding gate only to be told there that you're not compliant with 'regulations'. We managed to make it all the way back to the boarding gate only to be told, guess what!? That we weren't compliant! Ahhhh f*** !! Maybe if I was an attractive 6 foot tall blonde I'd be compliant huh Gomez!?? It was right then and there that I realised that Aeromexico was going to be taking off to LA without us. It was also at that moment that I knew that the money that we had spent for our tickets had just effectively flown out of the country, although I didn't want to mention the fact to Frichot at this point. The only saving grace for us at this moment was that Aeromexico was able to off load our luggage and that we'd be able to pick it up at their outside counters.

The face of complete defeat - Frichot back at the hostel after our painful ordeal


Irritated and disconsolate with a big dose of angry we walked back to the Aeromexico counter and went about adjusting our flights out of the city for the next evening. Again, I knew what was coming here but I intended on playing dumb all the way through. The service rep at the counter looked for flights out the next evening but then hit me with the inevitable line, 'Yes, we can change them but there will be a $200 cost for the itinerary change' ...he paused for a second and then added 'Sorry, that's an adjustment of $200 per ticket'.  I laughed out aloud and said to the guy 'You know, our tickets cost $376 in total, now you're asking us to pay an additional $400 to fly out tomorrow when our flight has already left this evening because of events beyond our control'. He looked at me, shrugged his shoulders and simply said 'Chess' (chess, it's the way that yes sounds in that damn accent that for right at this moment was freakin' annoying).....'Alright Jose where is your manager, I'd like to speak to him'. He explains where I can locate his manager and adds something to me about  a dude that's supposedly  wearing a red tie, that makes the supervisor easily identifiable, apparently!? Either that or he was a little late for a Valentines Day date.

We locate Jose's manager at another Aeromexico counter. He kind of looks like agent Smith out of The Matrix, just less attractive, greasier and oozing arrogance. Before I spoke to the guy I already expected him to be a mammoth tool and boy didn't I read him well off the bat. I slowly and calmly explained our situation to him requesting that Aeromexico do the right thing and either refund the price of the tickets or change our flights to the following evening at no additional cost. This cockhead then proceeds to half lecture me upon our duty as travellers to know of all immigration and visa requirements prior to entry and out of hand dismisses my claims that there was nobody at the border that could have assisted in having our documents stamped (I mean he was kind of right but also kind of not - we passed by initially without anyone stopping us or offering advice). He wraps up his delivery by telling us that Aeromexico would not be willing to absorb any of these costs and that we would need to acquire additional tickets if we wanted to fly out. Now usually at this point I would have flipped my lid and either unleashed a tirade of abuse or jumped the counter and made a quaint noose out of that pansy red tie that he was wearing. I didn't however, even when he deliberately turned his back and ignored my presence I kept it cool. Not sure how I managed that but it happened.

At our wits end and some six hours after leaving Hostal Regina we made our way back to spend another night. We jumped online to acquire tickets to LA for the next afternoon, with Alaska Airlines on this occassion, and vowed to be at the airport five hours prior to our departure time in order to get this damn fine paid and our documents well and truly stamped. None too surprisingly it would take nearly all of the five hours that we placed aside in order to get everything organised. It really was one damn big project.

The following day at the airport started like this, a visit to the immigration counter at terminal 2, scene of the previous evening's showdown with Mr Dimwit. Once there  the same type of conversation commenced with yet another member of staff and then I knew, this day was going to be one epic mission. She explained to us once again that a fine needed to be paid, of which we were already well aware. She then pointed out the banks at which we may pay the fine, the type of authorisation stamp required and the fact that we needed to get to terminal one in order to have our passports/documents stamped also. So we headed off the the bank. As we approached one teller he pointed us out to someone else who inevitably pointed us elsewhere who in turn pointed us to the original teller in order to get an 'all clear' on the fine. That was an hour well spent. We were now required to obtain our itinerary from Alaksa Airlines in order to show immigration that we actually had plans to leave the country today, stop number three on this epic journey.

We wait for the Alaska Airlines counter to open and then in turn wait in line for another hour to obtain our itinerary. Of course we weren't allowed to check-in at this point because we didn't have that vital stamp, something that the retard at the Aeromexico counter could have advised us off prior to wasting all our time waiting at the gate the previous night. In any case with the fine paid and our itinerary in hand we went to immigration in what we thought would be a simple case of stamping a few documents....but oh no, now commenced a whole freakin' production. A litany of documents passed in front of our noses, all requiring signatures, all requiring the signature of some high and statelt immigration official, all requiring a special seal or secret password to be spoken. It was to be 'death by bureaucracy'  for myself and Jet at this point. It must have been another 90 or so mins that we waited idly at the counter before we finally received the all clear from the immigration official and were allowed to proceed back up to check-in.


Finally on the way out


Sunset over the California coastline

It was only after our second round battle with the Alaska Airlines check-in counter that we finally believed that everything was in order and that we'd be heading back to LA. Our slight indiscretion at the border two weeks prior had cost us 24hours and approximately $350. A lesson that had been learnt the hard way!  So with that I give this simple advice to all you travellers out there that may be deliberating as to whether an entry stamp or visa is worth the trouble. If you're ever in that situation just think of a drunk little Mexican man on your shoulder yelling out, 'Hey you're gonna wanna get that visa compañero, we no like proyecto's.' - because inevitably, without that little stamp, you're going to get bent over and ridden like a bad donkey.



Wednesday, March 23, 2011

Mexico City - The Goldilocks Zone


09 MAR - 10 MAR 2011

'This porridge is too hot," Goldilocks exclaimed. So she tasted the porridge from the second bowl. "This porridge is too cold." So she tasted the last bowl of porridge. "Ahhh, this porridge is just right!" she said happily.......now is it just me or should someone have told Goldilocks to freakin' harden the hell up!?

I believe in the existence of extraterrestrial life. Thankfully these days that's not a far fetched notion as the further we look out into our universe the more we realise that there are possibilities that life, even intelligent life, could actually have made the cut somewhere just as we have. In astronomy, the habitable zone or the Goldilocks zone is the distance from a star where a planet of the same type as our own can maintain water on its surface and in turn support life that may be equivalent to ours. Indeed from a mathematical perspectice the Drake equation is a formula used to determine/estimate  both the number of detectable extraterrestrial civilizations in our galaxy and also the possibilty of intelligent civilizations. The results from those equations, whilst not overwhelming, still suggests that it is feasible to assume that there are possibly between 1-10 intelligent civilizations just in our galaxy...and by the way, if you're a smarty like me and immediately said, 'Well der Fred, the one in our galaxy is on Earth', note carefully that I did add the world 'intelligent'...then of course there are also  the billions of other galaxies  circulating in the universe but then they could be supporting rebellion bases who may want to bring down the Galactic Empire, so we won't get into that discussion either.

As a kid I was always fascinated by astronomy and for some reason always held onto snippets of random information that related to the subject. One of those snippets that still intrigues me is the story of the WOW! signal - check it out if you're interested (WOW!). Basically what happened was that back in 1977 an astronomer that was working on a project specifically  designed to search for extraterrestrial intelligent life encountered an extremely long interstellar signal whose location and intensity was dramatically different from anything else that had been encountered before or since. This in turn got me to thinking, what if our intergalactic neighbours had a pretty odd sense of humour and what if we had just missed a cracking joke? I mean if I was in charge of sending a signal out of home base to our neighbours I'd love to shoot out something such as 'Dogs balls, we have a hankering for delicious dogs balls, do you guys deliver? And if I don't get my order in 14 years is it free?' or perhaps, 'Hammer says we're too legit to quit and Ice says that we should stop, collaborate and listen, can you guys get back to us on that!'. Yeah, how about that? The small dreams I have. So now you're asking, what the hell does this all have to do with Mexico!? And truly, not much really, aside from my thinking as to how damn odd it would be for alien life forms to make there way down to Mexico one sunny afternoon and check out something like the Lucha Libre (free wrestling) that is such big business in Cuidad de Mexico. I mean I went down to the Consejo mundial de lucha libre (aka Arena Mexico) one evening to check out these masked crusaders and one of the much beloved art forms of Latino culture, and man oh man, it was a trip! But I'll get back to that a little later.

Now I'm not sure if you remember but in my last post there was mention of a BBQ that I would apparently be hosting at the hostal on the evening after my arrival. Information on the ground was kind of scarce, it involved Patrick saying, 'Henry, tomorrow night you will be hosting a BBQ for around 30 people'. Then the following evening after having spent several hours in the sun atop pyramids of granduer, I rolled into the hostel a little tired and weary. There behind the reception desk were bags of food and the simple order from Patrick of 'Now you cook!'. Ummm really Patrick? What exactly am I making? You want me to make guacamole for 30 people from two avocados? And please tell me that you actually had a realistic plan for the 5kgs of carrots that you bought!? It was only with some time contemplating in the kitchen and with the good grace and assitance of Vinko Milic, a chef from Cabo on the Baja peninsula, that we managed to pull it off. In the end it actually ended up being that Vinko managed to get it together and I was desiginated to acting as Patrick's bitch for the evening, a role that had me running up and down the three flights of stairs in the hostel for 2-3hrs.

 Vinko at the grill - giving it the Cabo touch - Hostal Regina - Mexico City

 Hey, who has the chef's hat? I'm the CHEF damn it!

 See the sheepish looks that Tom and Kyall are sporting? Yeah, good 'ole Kyall urinated on the reception desk from the third floor the evening before - stellar performance!

 They just both sneezed at the same time - it really looks like it could have been anything hey

As always our nights at Hostal Regina carried over to early mornings at the hostel. Somewhere at about 4am, huddled around the glowing embers of a BBQ that was having its last rites read, Frichot came up with the ingenious idea of placing some of the left over raw potatoes into the hearth in the aid of post alcohol redemption. Needless to say, the plan didn't work and several potatoes were witnessed exiting the orbit of Hostal Regina at around that time. I think the next day I did read a small article of news in the Mexico City local regarding the surreal occurrence of potatoes falling from the sky. My Spanish is only very basic however, the meaning may have been lost in my errant translation. 

 Downtown Mexico City - The Torre Latinoamericano in the background

 The massive Mexican flag at the Zocalo

 View of Mexico City from the Torre Latinoamericano

 View of Mexico City from the Torre Latinoamericano

The next day was relatively cruisy for myself and Jetson. We managed to make an appearance in the foyer somewhere close to noon even if our heads were somehow conducting impromptu bongo lessons. The light of day, even though mildly disconcerting was something that we feared we were required to brave at this point. So we took in the company of both Rachel and Nino for the afternoon and went strolling around the Zocalo and city centre to see what we could find. If you did the maths in that moment then you would have figured out that you had two Australians, a lovely English lass and a soccer mad Swiss walking around the heart of Mexico City ,something was bound to give...........so of course we stopped in a bar to watch a champions league match between Barcelona and Arsenal, now that's Mexico City sightseeing for you! We did however manage to pull ourselves away from the bar after  the match and after drowning several Sol's so as to make our way to the observation deck of the Torre Latinoamericana for a 360 degree view of Mexico City, Distrito Federal. At 183 metres it is one of the tallest buildings in the capital and offers exciting views of a sprawling city that unbelievably is built upon what was once the bed of Lake Texcoco, which in was the support  for the old Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. Seriously, just look at the photos that I've included and imagine all of it as water, it's kind of insane isn't it!?

The view of Mexico City from the Torre Latinoamericano

 Frichot on the observation deck

The Zocalo as seen from the Torre Latinoamericano
 

Making our way back to the hostel in the early evening we discovered that we had timed our run to perfection. That evening we had booked ourselves in for what promised to be 'good times' at the Arena Mexico but not even had we managed to take three steps inside the front door than we were being turned around and marched back on our way for stop one of the evening, a fascinating place which we later found to be the local pulqueria. A pulqueria you say? What the hell? Well, a pulqueria none too surprisingly is a place where people sit down to enjoy a thirst quenching drink of pulque, a desperately viscous alcoholic beverage that is made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant, and by all accounts is the traditional native beverage of Mexico. As we entered through the saloon style swinging doors orders were taken promptly and the locals met our whimsical gazes with an almost apologetic look of 'Yeah, sorry guys, our ancient ancestors didn't know what the hell they were doing!'. Somehow I managed to score myself a pint of mango flavoured pulque and when it arrived I attempted to swill it but sheepishly realised that this blob of a beverage wasn't really moving. Taking my first semi-fizzy sip of the drink I felt a somewhat stringy glob of goo hit the back of my throat, it felt like someone had just had a mango induced bukake party in my mouth. Looking around the room it certainly felt that everyone had made their own assessment in the manner that I had, this certainly was going to be an acquired taste. As with most culinary delights that are of dubious nature in foreign lands the selling point quite often is that this stuff is potent in the 'love' department. The 'man juice' or 'Mexican viagra' will make you strong like an ox...and you know what, after I downed that pint I could have probably gone back for another, I was certainly feeling some type of sensation!

Kimble getting ready for some nasty Luche Libre

 Commencing proceedings on Mexican cooking night

 Commencing getting TequilaNated on Mexican cooking night

 Yup, that's how you cook, Mexican style

[A night at the Luche Libre - AWESOME!]

A little later on and feeling somewhat more manly after the pulqueria experience we arrived at the Arena Mexico. It was Luche Libre fight night! So let the masked bandits get their freak on! For the first hour or so, and none too surprisingly at that point, the cheezy wrestling bored the living daylights out of me. I mean if you had watched the WWF as a kid then this seemed to be a masked backyard version of that. As the night progressed however and as many beers were passed into my hands I started to get a feel for the action. I found myself getting up and cheering for absolutely everyone and I also found myself yelling out random abuse and jibes such 'C'mon dude, take him down like a G6' & Yeah, your mama is gonna be making Kan Tong for him tonight'. It ended up being quite an awesome experience and I loved the fact that the crowd were so involved and really into supporting their favourite dirty little Sanchez bandits. By the time we got to the final bout of the night we had ourselves an epic duel between good and evil. I don't remember the names of the combatants but by that time I didn't really care, the whole theatre of the event was a treat and I really didn't want it to end, but it did unfortunately, with good thankfully triumphing over evil. We all get to live, love and fight for another day - phew.

 I love the faces these guys pulled, they hadn't even had a drink yet!

 OK, so they had drinks by this stage

 ....and by this stage

Evil did however get its revenge on both Jet and myself latter that evening. Back at the ranch a Mexican cooking class was in full progress and by the time that the luche libre crew showed up there was only one thing that could be done. You guessed it, time to get TequilaNated. This evil, evil little drink seemed to be following me wherever I went and  on this evening it seemed as though it was hell bent on taking me down, actually it seemed like it was hell bent on taking everyone down. The Mexican cooking class of course turned into a drinkathon. At random points in the evening I do recall Patrick just walking up to me, turning over the tequila bottle and pouring, whilst at other points I also recall that I thought it would be hilarious to get some random Japanese guys drunk because of their wicked karate moves and the epic faces that they pulled.

 It's blurred because the person taking the shot was hammered also...you can figure it out

 Alright boys - take the shots and show me those fight moves!

   Yeah, whatever I said to Rachel was just hilarious....obviously

 That's my 'go to' photo move - seriously, that's all I've got

The night of course drew on, and yes, it happened again. Midnight became 2am, became 4am and became something after 5am. By that time most of the hostel family had cleared out and we were left with only four stalwarts holding up the table, although I was secretly working behind the scenes to get rid of two of them. Several hours later I woke up in the darkness of the TV room wondering how it all ended up there...well, in actual fact I did know but unfortunately it only involved falling asleep. In any case all I'm going to say is that you know who you are and yes, you owe me! 

Friday, March 18, 2011

Mexico City - The fifth sun

Mexico City &Teotihuacan (Mexico)
07 MARCH - 08 MARCH 2011


The Tukanoan people of the Amazon did not consider their fellow forest dwellers, the Macu, to be people. They would say that the Macu were not born of the anaconda but rather were breathed into being from the dust of the first human, Yeba, the child of Jaguar Woman and Father Sun. They were subhuman, mediators between the realm of the living and the spirits of the forest. I wondered in that sense if the Macu still wondered the earth and if in fact I was some sort of descendant of these people. I mean only three to four months ago I had the mouth of a puma wrapped around my knee whilst politely asking it in Spanish for it to 'chill the hell out' and now, standing atop the pyramid of the sun, acting as a mediator between Jet's post apocalyptic piñata night binge and listening to the spirits of a civilisation that disappeared so abruptly some 1200 years ago it was me that needed to breath a little life into what looked to be quite a torrid day for my cohort. Ahh, the residual effects of being tequilaNated! Still before continuing with the story of how we arrived in Teotihuacan it needs to be pointed out that the little idea actually sprouted in the backstreets of Tijuana, so let me take this story back a few steps!

Back in the days when our bank balances were flatlining and our desires for NYC crumbling under a frontierland evening sky, Frichot and I were throwing around options in what appeared to be a losing battle for the continuation of the wing and a prayer tour. Feasibility studies concluded that options for travelling further south into the heart of Mexico might just allow us the chance of surviving for a few weeks if the kindness of the friends of Frichot fan club were to come to the party - which they in actual fact did and spectacularly so! So right here, right now, big thanks to Warren (muchos gracias) and Jet's flatmate MH for saving us the trouble of having to sell Jets' talents on the streets of Mazatlan! Trust me boys, pickings were slim but some of the Mexican mamas were eyeing Frichot off like a picante morning burrito after an all night tequila bender, it would have been brutal for him but necessary in order to save us!

 Near Hostal Regina - Ciudad de Mexico - Mexico

 Near Hostal Regina - Ciudad de Mexico - Mexico

 Love Bugs in Mexico City - They are all the rage!

 Near Hostal Regina - Ciudad de Mexico - Mexico

 Near Hostal Regina - Ciudad de Mexico - Mexico

Several days after our last ditch attempts to save the tour were realised we cruised into Cuidad de Mexico to commence the last few days of an escapade that had had more lives than a feisty frog (get it, a frog croaks ...constantly!!?? Ahhh, doesn't matter). With a touch of good fortune we had located the Hostal Regina via an hasty search on Hostelworld and landed in their foyer early  on a Monday morning without so much as a hint of the alcohol fuelled antics that would be attacking us within the next few days. We should have known of course, there were tthe old and familiar tell tail signs. Immediately upon arrival a mohawked behemoth with what I thought was a German accent (in fact it was Dutch) made his presence known and introduced himself to us in the following manner, 'Hi, my name is Patrick and I work here. Anything you want, anything you need just ask me. My role here is to get you f**ked up every night'...and you know what, the mighty man stuck to his words and did just that. Now Patrick is kind of an odd fellow. Ten times cheerier than Sydney on it's best mardi gras evening and louder than Ken Done mashed with Maggie T, this guy had Jet colouring his hair purple within 20 mins of our arrival and me ripping out a blinding rendition of Beds are Burning by Midnight Oil in the foyer of the hostel a few mins later. He also had us signing up to a piñata making carnivale of tequila and misguided confetti bombardment that very evening, and this my friends is where our days in Mexico City took a violent but inevitably brilliant turn.


 Seriously, this happened within minutes of arriving at the Hostel - Patrick on duty!

 No kidding, it was really going to be a pinata night!

It sounds relatively tame doesn't it? In fact it sounded like the perfect way that I would be able to cure the nasty bout of insomnia that I had been suffering the last few days. Earlier in the day Patrick had put it to me that I was 'obligated' to partake in the piñata making antics of that evening and added nonchalantly 'Oh and by the way, tomorrow night you'll also be hosting a BBQ!' (but more of that in my next post). 


 ....and so it begins!

 Can you see where it started to go wrong??

Oh yeah, fire fight! Head for the hills hombres!

 It was innocuous enough to commence with. Several randoms at a hostel being guided in the fine art of piñata making and the intricacies of its design. Sitting back in the foyer of what I must say was easily the best hostes I've stayed in, I kind of had it in my mind that this would more than likely be an early night as Teotihuacan was beckoning us into its breaches on the morrow, but something happened. The other misfits that actually turned up to the event were quite cool! Usually at events such as these you encounter one or two people that you click with but it seemed that right at this moment we had close to 10 congregated around a table wondering how the hell they got roped into doing the same thing - and then 'it' commenced. The first few rounds of tequila shots. What good can EVER come of tequila shots, right! Through Patricks' warped guidance and direction we somehow concocted a drinking game that involved the creation of random geography questions, more drinking and the wild throwing of wet rags that quickly turned putrid shades of grey with ensuing throws. I'm not sure if it was the tequila (lol, really, I'm not sure) but we all got a little boisterous with our antics until we realised that there was a huge bagful of confetti that was just waiting to be cast in to the rarefied air of a Hostal Regina evening...and then it was made so! With beers aplenty and regular visits to nearby Oxxo's (the Mexican equivalent of the 7-Eleven that thankfully also sells cheap alcohol), we were throwing confetti bombs for the rest of the evening. It was an odd way to spend a night but it ended up being a hell of a lot of fun and as I've mentioned, it was one of those rare situations where everyone just gets along, so thank you to the following people for making this night such a laugh (Rachel, Patrick, Sophie, Kyall, Tom, Koganti) and a few others whose names escape me. We closed out the evening, or rather morning, at somewhere close to 5am with Rachel and Tom somehow occupying our room until the early hours. Not that I minded too much, I kind of had a thing for Rachel by that time anyway, but hey, no news there, she already knows it (don't you Ms Englishman?). 

  Sophie getting ConfettiNated!

 This vendor loved our business! Drunk idiots = muchos pesos!

Waking up just a few hours after our ordeal however proved to be the real litmus test. Sensitivity to bright lights, a dull throbbing headache, an arm that had lost all sensation hours ago and a bed full of confetti? In those first few mins of a new morning I had myself questioning the ongoings of the mind bending piñata event and how exactly the outcome had led to the situation that I now found myself in. I know there are informants out there that can answer those questions for me and if they were ever to arrive in Sydney, well...anyway...I digress.


Teotihuacan had been my big selling point to Frichot back in Tijuana several days earlier. With funds dwindling I put it to him that seeing this archaelogical site just outside of Mexico City might just be our ticket to getting this tour back on track (aside from the fact that it was a place that I'd always wanted to visit). As we sat in silence at the breakfast table that morning however and mentally patched together some of the shenanigans and sometimes vile concoctions that had made their way into our systems, I looked at the dull, listless shell that was Frichot and wondered how in the world I'd manage to get him standing let alone riding in a mini-van for several hours just so he could walk in the blistering sun for another few hours and then climb the highest legally climable pyramid in the world. As Frichot 'dry wrenched' a few times whilst at the table he looked up at me sullenly as just said this, 'Go hard or go home mate'. We were definitely back on!

 Frichot - the aftermath

 Google it - seriously, just Google it!


So a couple things that I didn't know about Teotihuacan or Mexico City for that matter. I had assumed that Teotihuacan was actually an Aztec site, wrong! The site was in actual fact quite a large cultural and commercial centre that existed some 1000 years prior to that of the Aztecs. At its zenith in the first half of the first millennium AD there were something like 200,000 people that inhabited the complex, although the specificity of the ethnic groups who lay claim to the site vary (Nahua, Otomi or Totonac). This therefore had me asking the obvious question, 'then who the hell were the Aztecs and where was their hideout?' - good question, am glad I asked it.

 First glimpse of the Pyramid of the Moon from the Avenue of the Dead - Teotihuacan - Mexico

 Frichot loved the stairs!
Teotihuacan - Mexico

The Aztecs were a people of central Mexico who from approximately the 13th century adopted the city of Tenochtitlan, located on an island in Lake Texcoco as the capital of their empire. Whilst this in itself doesn't sound that impressive there are a coupld of 'add-ons' to this snippet of information that may make it so, 1) The city of Tenochtitlan was built in a manner very similar to Venice, small cities and villages all tied together by a series of canals. Indeed when Hernan Cortes and his crew turned up to Tenochtitlan in 1521 they termed it the 'Venice of the Americas', just before they set about destroying it, and 2) The entirety of Mexico City is actually built on top of what was once Lake Texcoco! That to me was quite a headspin. Where the hell did all that water go and how did they manage such a feet of ingenuity and engineering (all questions that I haven't had the chance of Googling as yet). 

 Pyramid of the Moon - Teotihuacan - Mexico

 Pyramid of the Sun - Teotihuacan - Mexico

 Frichot with the Pyramid of the Sun in the background

Our Aztec buddies aside, arriving at Teotihuacan that afternoon had me sinking back into some of the golden memories that I have of my first arrival to Angkor Wat in Cambodia. The size and scale of the site is daunting even by modern day standards, let alone for a pre-Columbian people of two milennia ago, and just the same as Angkor, it's that initial realisation of enormity that just has you mesmerised from the start.

 Pyramid of the Moon taken from the top of the Pyramid of the Sun

 On top of the sun

Trying out my Indiana Jones look - yeah, I kind of like it
 Looking toward the Pyramid of the Sun and Avenue of the Dead

Walking around the complex for something like three hours, with Frichot losing half his weight somewhere along the Avenue of the Dead (aptly named I'd say), we managed to climb up to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun and take in both the view of the complex and the entirety of the surrounding area. Sometimes when you take a seat and try to absorb places such as these attempting to use adjectives to adequately describe them or provide a sense of perspective just doesn't seem to cut it. What I will say is this. Once again, on the wild ride that I've had for the last year I feel more than fortunate to have been provided with the chance of seeing a place that I've always wanted to see. To have done that with a great mate of mine, no matter how ill he was (even though he managed to tough it out quite successfully) is something that I'll always remember and cherish.