Barcelona - The town that Gaudi built

You know, sometimes I get the feeling that town, cities or countries have colours, for example, Marrakech and Fez felt like they should have been wrapped in burgundy, purple and chocolate. Paris felt like shades of blue dependant on it's mood and Barcelona, well, it was like a rich sunset, oranges, reds etc. So, if I had to pick a shot that was most representative of the feel that Barcelona had for me, it would be the one below.

That's Barcelona for me, a sunset that's fiery, colourful, passionate, inspiring - something that just envelopes you. Each city is special of course and there's elements of each that are unique, intruiging and wonderous...and I have to admit, Barcelona wasn't even my favourite city but it's mood and temprement was perhaps the one that I most associated with. Other times it's not even the physical side of a city but the landscapes and the atmosphere that the music or art creates, sometimes it's that which you find most endearing, triggering those neurons in your mind.

So, my second day in Barcelona started with a stroll down on the few kms of beaches down at la Barceloneta. Not the most amazingly beautiful place but impressive in its proximity to the centre.
Homenatge a la Barceloneta

After strolling for a few hours I headed down to the Harbour Cable Car which cuts across Barcelona harbour and provides some of the most amazing views of the city. I'd got to admit, the cable car looked particularly old school and the type of rickety structure that was bound to make global headlines for collapsing in 5km per hour winds. Never the less, I'm never one to shirk my responsibilities for taking on things that are dangerous (even of the danger is only created in my mind, lol). Without question though, the views were spectacular and the trip across the harbour well worth the experience.

You know, am not in the mood so much right now to add too much more about where I went and what I did. I can say that the experiences, landscapes, the sights, sounds, people etc, formulate the impressions and feelings that you always carry with you. It might be 'travel wankery' as some people term it but I truly believe that term to be less about what travel imparts and more about either the jealousy or fear that other people carry about with them - that's cool with me, because I'm not one of them and I'm happy to be that. So, without further adieu, I present my imagines of Barcelona from day two :)

Street performer - Las Ramblas

Barcelona - Vicky Cristina

My last morning in Paris was spent wondering along the Seine, drinking a few too many cups of coffee, absorbing the sights, sounds and as much of everything else that was on offer. Unfortunately, once the strike of 12:00pm came around I jumped aboard my mini-bus shuttle and was heading out of Paris to the budget air terminal in Beauvais. Getting out of Paris was surprisingly easy and hitting the countryside even more so, under 30 mins and we were driving through rolling hills and general greenery.

Thanks to Ryan Air I was out of Paris and into Barcelona - Girona airport about 90 mins later. What this meant also was that there was going to be a 100km bus ride into the centre of Barcelona, the duration of which was approximately 20mins less than the entire Paris-Barcelona flight.

Now, some cities have a few 'grand entrances', others have iconic buildings that leave you speechless - Barcelona has the The Torre Agbar (Agbar Tower) which is 144 metres tall and designed by French architect Jean Nouvel. It's certainly an interesting building, an a surprising one considering its immediate surrounds.

The Torre Agbar - aka, the disco dildo

I assume with all the clicking of cameras and the little sniggers in the bus most people were thinking exactly the same thing.

Now driving into Barcelona itself was kind of interesting, immediate impressions were that it was a little ram shackled, edgier and definitely grittier than Madrid....it also has that 'cool' vibe, like the city knows that it's 'alternative', if that's what you'd like to call it. Really, the comparison between Barcelona and Madrid is chalk and cheese, whereas Barcelona is more overtly attractive, Madrid has it interwoven within its make up. Although as I'd come to find out, Barcelona has it's own character and attitude wrapped up within its streets, sights, sounds and people.

Now the hotel I was staying at was the h10 montcada, right on the edge of the Gothic area. As I go into town right on sunset I headed upstairs to the rooftop bar to have a few drinks, watch the sun go down and to take a couple of photos. Have got to say, it was particularly beautiful that afternoon and some of the best shots that I took from my time away came from that little while on the roof of the h10.

After enjoying the sunset I made the huge leap across the road and entered into the Barri Gòtic (Ciutat Vella), which is basically an area filled with hundreds of small winding streets, hidden squares, fountains, etc....and as I discovered, many, many very cool bars. Now here's the problem - some places you're comfortable doing solo, there's enough of a certain type of 'trait' that a town has where you don't really need anyone else to enjoy it. This area however was made more for socialising, winding away the hours with bottles of wine, bits and pieces of an enormous variety of food and accommodating the early hours of the next day with a continuance of the current one. Hangovers in Barcelona are not an option, they're expected, thus coping with them is all part of their ethos - now that's cool. Shame there was nobody else around to help me test a few of these places out !! C'mon, where were you all ???

Streets within the Barri Gotic
I love this shot - one of the bars I stopped in

This last shot makes me laugh. I stopped in at a place for some tapas and had some type of salami with pork cheek and a few glasses of red wine. I was already feeling a little light headed by then ...what you can't see however is the route needed to make it to my table. Just behind me is a set of small, tight wooden stairs that go up one floor to this levelled area indoors. The number of people that struggled, tripped and did themselves some damage on the way down was absolutely hilarious.

After eating and drinking my way into the early hours Barcelona kindly asked whether I should start thinking about heading back for 'home', I kindly obliged, but how I wound my way through the streets and actually stumbled to the front door of my hotel I'll never know. I guess even with an intravenous red wine drip I'm still on my orienteering game !

Paris - Bonne nuit Paris

Commissioned by the then French president Francois Mitterand, the Louvre pyramid outside of the Louvre is basically a large glass and metal pyramid, surrounded by three smaller ones within the courtyard of the Louvre museum. I recall that when it was completed in 1989 there seemed to be a lot of controversy regarding it's look, the argument that it clashed with the overall 'look' of the museum etc. I remember seeing it on the news and thinking, you know, it really isn't that bad...and in reality it's not, it certainly adds a new dimension to the area. It's even more spectacular at night but that shot I'll leave for a little later on in this update.

As I've been updating this blog, many months removed from the actual travel that I've undertaken, I've kind of forgotten to mention the dates of travel. To keep track, this was my fourth day in Paris, on the 9th of July, 2008. This was to be my last full day in Paris and in the 'City of museums' why not kick of the last day with the world's best known and perhaps most loved, inclusive of the world's most well known painting.

The Louvre pyramid taken from inside of the Louvre

It would take days, continuously moving through the respective rooms of the Louvre in order to see every piece in the museum. I had a few hours maximum, so of course you pick the 'classics' and 'take them out' in order of priority. Number one on the list the little painting below.

Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci

People always comment on how small the paiting is but for me, after hearing these stories and imagining something miniscule, it's actual size was a surprise - a lot larger than I had imagined. Again, the crowds were there but not the terrifying throngs that I'd imagined either, I generally think that most people are either terribly sensitive, easily irritated or over emphasise their stories for effect. So, what to say about the Mona Lisa - first and foremost her eyes are engaging, compelling and draw you in without effort. It's said that her expression is enigmatic, displaying a certain sense of ambiguity, I think that's right. There's a sense that the person is right on the edge of smiling or perhaps showing a sense of deep love, respect or appreciation for the painter...then when you think of that you realise that it's not a photo and in fact its the creation of the painter, Leonardo, who had this person in his minds eye. Once you consider that then you quickly figure out what sort of genious this represents. It's certainly not the best or most awe inspiring painting but it is by far and away the most engaging.

I'm not sure how long I was in her presence, sometime I imagine, but my next destination was one of the most well recognised sculptures on earth.

Venus de Milo

Recognised as one of the most famous works of ancient Greek sculpture, the Venus de Milo or the Aphrodite of Milos was created somewhwere between 130 and 100 BC and is believed to depict Aphrodite. More famous for its missing arms, that were lost somewhere along the way, the Venus de Milo, unlike the Mona Lisa is underwhelming. Maybe I just don't have a thing for statues or maybe it was where it was positioned. It was in quite a non-descript area, away from all of the other Greek sculptures, just on its lonesome with a handful of people standing about.

I've added a few more of my favourite paintings from the Louvre, most from the Renaissance period, which is any paiting from the 14th-17th century or there abouts. I may have gotten the period incorrect but lets just say, some of the paintings were enormous - some floor to ceiling action by 10mtrs or so, they just left me dumbfounded. I don't have any names of the works but I've added a few below.

After walking around the Louvre for hours and actually quite enjoying myself I thought I'd make a return trip to Monmatre and check out the Dali museum. Surrealism to me is definitely a favourite movement / period and Dali, well he's the King, right ? Unfortunately this museum disappointed me, it was small, didn't have any paitings, had a few lithographs and some photos of Dali, overall, it was lame.

Not to be disappointed, I cruised around Montmatre and decided to try and absorb the feel of the place. I also took up residence and quaint little restaurant and a few reds whilst I reflected on my last two weeks of travel.

My Montmatre pit-stop

Reflections in Red

Let the reflections begin. I sat in this restaurant for a few hours mentally retracing the steps that had brought me here and not even on this journey but I'm talking about the years prior and the decisions, both good and bad that had brought me here to this point. No epiphanies, nothing overly profound, some realisation of regrets and the realisation of opportunities that had presented themselves. I've got to say, I feel more than fortunate to have been able to see the places that I've wanted to over the years or consider myself able to be able to think of seeing certain places without doubting that the opportunity would present itself.

I did manage to drag myself away from a great little afternoon of introspection and walk the streets of Montmatre, appreciating what it had to offer and the discoveries that presented itself in each new street, in each sight. It was a great afternoon.

As the afternoon wound down I made my way down from the village promising myself that I'd have to return relatively soon. I have the an unwritten policy of not wanting to return to a place until such point in time that I've seen all the other places that I've wanted to in the world but hey, Paris is going to have to be another acception. I jumped a train via a few connections to Le Marais area and decided that Chez Robert and Louise would be a fantastic place to revisit and have an evening meal.

Chez Robert & Louise

Oh yeah !! That blood sausage and pork belly was spectacular .....if you're ever there, then do it !

As is common for me, usually when I arrive in a place I like to walk. I tend to see more and feel more when I'm on the ground walking around. As has also been my custom, my last night in a place tends to be reflective and I walk, more absorbing the sights than anything else. As I walked from Le Marais I kind of stumbled into rue St.Denis, or so that's the way I remember it. After a fantastic dinner I decided to step it up a notch with a fantastic creme brulee and a fine, fine cognac - why the hell not I say.

Totally satisfied I hit the streets again and slowly started making the return journey home. I can't exactly remember what I was thinking at the time, swimming in my own thoughts I imagine, but here are a few of the last night shots I took of Paris.

The Louvre at night

Even more slowly I made my way down the Seine and came across Boulevard St.Michel, the home straight for me. Now, as always, sometimes you encounter some of the most intruiging parts of a place a little to late, thus was the case with me and the Latin Quarter. Now this place literally was right underneath my nose but as I walked around the rest of town these small bars, streets, cafes, eateries were just crying out to be discovered. I only wish I hadn't made it there so late, it must have been close to 2am and most of the places were shutting down although the streets were still filled with people, it was amazing.

...and so at that point I had to bid Paris adieu, bonne nuit to an absolutely magic place. Paris for me just fits perfectly into the puzzle of my psyche. Some places you pass through, experience, appreciate for what it offers and then move on for the next adventure. This town I feel is going to stay with me for a while - we're going to become firm friends :)

Paris - Later that night...up on the hill

After taking in the views across Paris from the Eiffel Tower I headed back to the last village of the city and decided I'd spend the rest of the evening just absorbing myself in the area, walking the small cobble stoned streets, taking up residence at cafe, struggling through several glasses of wine, taking photos and all things else associated with Montmarte. Yes, its 'touristy' to a degree but as I've said before, most well known places are, it just makes it par for the course. Without going into any more detail than I need to, this is the way I finished off my third day.

Cutting through the streets, climbing up to the top of Montmarte

A unique dish, the speciality of Montmarte...apparently

Now this dish is hardcore. I was sold with the fact that it was apparently a 'speciality' of Montmarte, although that's also code for 'the chef has an oversupply of these ingredients'. From what I could deduce, a few small layers of ham, some egg, three tomatoes for presentation and the rest was three or so different types of melted cheese. Man was it rich ! A small dish but a major mental effort, no pain no gain eh. It's one of those dishes where three to four bites is enough and the overall satisfaction decrease exponentially, especially when you catch a sight of the bottom of the plate and realise how fare you have to travel.

Typical Montmarte night scene

This is of my favourite shots of Paris, as for me, it's 'typically' Paris, or perhaps what I had always imagined it to me. Cafes on both sides, cobble stoned streets, beautifully illuminated and the solitary couple on the street just standing as a metaphor for all that is romantic and atmospheric about the city.

Basilica de Sacre Coeur

Another favourite shot, this shows the Basilica lit up and night but there's some great shadows on the dome and the centre of the show completely dark which also assists with the colour in the foreground. There's a lot of character in this one, it's as if the building has a presence and maybe in a way it does. It holds a commanding position over Paris, almost a 'guardian' type post.

Basilica de Sacre Coeur

Day or night there are always people gathered here, well, I assume during the Summer months in any case. It's a hell of a spot, a 180 degree spin from here and you have the lights of Paris spread out in front of you.

Cafe in Montmartre

Just your typical cafe but there's something very appealing, engaging about it. Also typical for European cafes, the chairs and tables face the street, made specifically for people watching, a favourite past time. I think from memory I took this on my way down the hill to Pigalle where I jumped a train and headed back for Luxembourg, my home station in case that was confusing. Yet another great day and another fabulous night.

Paris - Talk to me Vincent

The inside information was that the Musee d'Orsay was 'the museum' to check out in Paris, and of a city of museum's that's a pretty big call. Being a fan of Impressionism and knowing a few of the well know artists of the era I thought it pertinent to start my rounds here. I've got to say that I wasn't disappointed at all.

The museum itself is quite unusual in that it's built into the old Orsay railway station which originally was build for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. Its location is basically on the banks of the Seine. opposite the Tuileries gardens. For me that was a morning cafe stop and a station stop away from St.Michele Notre Dame station. No surprise, on arrival the queue was already snaking around the chains and barricades set up so as to keep the sheep orderly but I knew better, I knew the wait wouldn't be all too bad and definitely worth it.

Truthfully, the first few floors of the museum weren't too important for me. That's not to say that I didn't take an interest but the artists that I came to see were hanging out in the 'penthouse'. I guess museum directors knew the deal also but lifting them up to the rarified space of levels five and six of the station. Now, I'm not quite certain of my methodolgy, what I encountered first etc, but here are a few of my favourites and I think some well recognised pieces.

Arearea - Joyousness Gauguin

I know a little bit about Gauguin in that his intention was to set off to Tahiti in search of traces of a primitive way of life. He ended up staying and eventually dieing in Tahiti - in terms of his works however, they came from the amazing imagery of his surrounds, the culture, people, local stories and religious traditions. I guess his paintings in themselves don't so much inspire me, well, not as much as others but definitely understand his love/passion of Tahiti and its people. It's a spectacular destination and the people so warm and friendly.

Self portrait - Van Gogh

The Mona Lisa aside, the self portrait of Vincent Van Gogh is probably one of the most recognised in the world. The tragedy of his existence and the unrecognised talent only goes to further heighten the legend of such a 'tragic genious'. What I liked about this were the brush strokes and the overall formulation of the painting. Admittedly I don't know anything about are but beauty is definitely within the eye of the beholde

Starry Night - Van Gogh

'Often it seems to me that the night is even more richly coloured than the day' - now you're talking to me Vincent. Out of all the paintings I saw this by far was my favourite out of a magnificent bunch. Before adding any more I want to add a picture I took on the Seine, totally inspired by this painting. I'm interested in seeing the match up.

Well I can see it, there's something very atmospheric about the painting but also, the texture got me. The stars are emphasised texturally, which for me is an interesting technique and really adds an extra dimension to the entire composition.

After a fantastic morning wondering through the museum I decided to finally take on the throngs of people milling around the base of the Eiffel Tower and make my way up for a view of this city. I guess one of the first things that I noticed on my arrival was the heavy security presence. It was more than noticeable, it was a distinct presence - which was exacerbated when some 'doosh' decided to drop a can from the first level of the tower. Not only did it spark the interest of all the police in the immediate surrounds but got me thinking that if that had hit someones soft cranium then they'd be in a world of instantaneous pain, perhaps brain damage or worse. The stupid things you think about when you get older and become more sensible eh.

Now there's a few ways that you can make your way up the tower, either by lift to the second level and then another to the top, or you can walk up to the second level and catch a lift to the top. Ofcourse, you know me, always up for a physical challenge and I took on the steps up to the second level and then made my way up to the top.

I can say, I'm not afraid of heights at all but as the lift moved from the second level and headed upwards, looking out the windows kind of felt like you more moving in a space of nothingness. As the tower tapers in, your movement upwards means that you get closer to the structure and the feel is closer to a virtual fall. An amazing feeling I must say but there were a few people who definitely hit panic stations. The views however were nothing short of amazing, a truly spectacular angle of this magnificant town. As has been my tendency in the last few entries, I've added a few photos to show you what it was like.

Champ de Mars from the top of the Eiffel Tower

Arc de Triomphe from the top of the Eiffel Tower
Looking out over the Seine, to the Louvre

Another day and yet another highlight. Paris is wonderous, without question but this to me was a boyhood dream, one seeing the Eiffel Tower in 'real life' and the second was making it to the top. One day I'd like to be able to come back and share this all with someone...maybe...but if not, I'm more than happy to come back and do it all again, although I'd love to spend a lot, lot longer.

Paris - Before Sunset

I decided to make a habit of going to my local cafe each morning to get myself a croissant or toast and a cup of coffee. For some reason I also got into the habit of waking up a little later than usual which quite often meant that I was running the 50mtrs or so to meet the 10:30 breakfast deadline. Seems a little farcical to be trying to make up mins in a 50 metre run just to make breakfast, would have saved more time trying not to fix my hair up. In any case, I wanted a little corner of Paris that I could own eachday and this place was it. The waitress was so cool, she already knew on the second day what I wanted and was in preparation mode as I took a seat. Here's a view of my morning outlook, through my standard pre-morning, pre-caffeine haziness.

This look is out from the cafe onto Rue Royer-Collard and down to the left is Rue Le Goff which intersects with the street I was hanging out on for the few days there. Even though where I was based was considered to be on the edge of the Latin Quarter which is known as being a student area, I was getting into character in my own way. Late morning kick-offs, faux introspective looks into the distance, internal commentary on the goings on around me...ok, so perhaps it's a little bit of bullshit but the point is if you're not adopting or soaking up the atmosphere of a place in the way that its suppose to be then are you really experiencing it for what it has to offer ? The conundrum, whether to be a moderately pretentious twat and reject the very cultural edifices, cultural norms and characteristics that make a place or get into the mood and go with the flow of whats surrounding you. For me its the later and if I get called a touristic 'sell-out' for doing it then so be it, I just think it would be stupid of me not to.

To make most of the late morning start I decided to walk down towards the Seine and see another Parisian icon, (how many are there !?). Along with learning a hell of a lot about the metro system in Paris, a building that I became more than familiar with was Notre Dame de Paris (Our Lady of Paris). This is a spectacular Gothic cathedral on the eastern half of Ile de la Cite, so basically an island in the middle of the Seine. Other than it's Gothic constuction the additional thing that I remember being taught was the 'flying buttress' supports - the (arched exterior supports) of the building, which from memory made it one of the first in the world to adopt the technique and ofcourse gave the building an additionally unique look. You can clearly see the supports from the picture that I've added below.

Like many of the popular tourist attractions in Paris, the lines are long but with that said they're orderly and they move rather quickly. That's always a thing that suprises me, most places are like that. Once you get use to the pace of movement and you're patience is reasonable then the wait isn't altogether bad and if you have a few people with you then you'll always be able to create a little bit of amusement.

My fine research on the Notre Dame de Paris also tells me that its sculptures and stained glass windows are heavily influenced by the naturalism movement. Well, that may be the case, pity that my knowledge of artistic movements doesn't stretch further than being able to name impressionism and surrealism as my favourite periods but not being able to name when the hell they commenced, ended or what triggered their beginnings.

There are good and bad aspects to travelling solo. The good is the lack of the need to compromise, the ability to take the time you want in the places that you want, especially when they catch you buy surprise. I've got to say, this building did catch me by surprise but more for its exterior, its presence and the understanding of the era in which it was built. I've included a few additional pictures below that really highlight its Gothic feel.

After reliving year 7 French class yet again I decided to make my way be to Le Marais for a bit of lunch and perhaps....perhaps....to get those locks chopped off. Now, I can't remember at what point that I thought that cutting my hair was going to be a great idea but I do remember walking into a 'salon' and asking them if they spoke English (of course they did), then it was 'well, what can you do for me'. As the hair fell to the floor I couldn't help thinking that it was a terrible idea but also, 'the first cut is the deepest', and after that point there was no going back without another twelve to sixteen months growth...*Sigh*, all that commitment, all the hard work towards looking like Bernard Fanning and Dave Grohl, gone in a Parisian minute. The strike from the glistening steel of lovely lady's sharpened implements of doom and then the artisan in her took over and she sculptured a Euro-trash style never before seen on this son of Serbia. In all truth, the cut was pretty good, and there's always something liberating about going for a new look....damn, I'm such a girl sometimes.

For some reason this afternoon tended to move by pretty quickly. After making my way back 'home' and chilling out for a few moments I went back down to St-Michele Notre Dame station and decided to walk to the Eiffel Tower in order to capture its spectacular light show. It was a hell of a walk, wondering by the law courts (liberte, egalite, fraternite), then onwards through the Louvre, into the Tuileries Gardens, along the Seine to watch a magnificent sunsent and then to the Eiffel Tower to see it lit up in a glorious blue. From what I've been able to find out, the blue light was apparently representative of it's 6 month presidency of the European Union which commenced on 01 JUL 08. Again, I've added a few photos below of the walk that I took. Sometimes a photo can convey a sentiment, feeling or expression more than any line or paragraph.

Outside the Louvre

A magnificent sunset

Of course I'd be remiss if I didn't include some of the shots of the Eiffel Tower under lights. For me its got to be one of the great sights in the world. I mean I've seen a few good ones thus far, some of which are included in earlier blogs, i.e., Angkor Wat (which is by far the greatest thus far), but certainly the Eiffel Tower at night is pretty special, and in the City of Lights what more can you really ask for ?

Paris - The last village of Paris

I was walking north in the City of Light , basking in the sunshine of a great Summer afternoon. What was north of the centre ? Well, a little area of Paris called Montmarte, comprising of a kind of artistic, fairly eclectic person, although you could very well argue that this type of element left long ago and now it's just a very rich district masquerading under an alternative Parisian identity. So be it, that's the route that my mental compass would take me. Although for some strange reason, following my fairly accurate internal GPS and a light on Lonely Planet map I ended up at Gare du Nord, which was a stop that I had made the night before. Well, at least I knew I was travelling north.

A little while later I encountered the infamous Pigalle, basically on the border of the 9th and 18th arrondissements, the entire area is a red light district, sex shop central basically. Although at the time of day I was there it was fairly tame, plenty of tourists around, leering and pointing and probably wishing that their partners had the guts to walk into one of these places with them without feeling self conscious. The drawcard I guess of this area is the infamous Moulin Rouge - known ofcourse for its risque type of entertainment, and from the prices, a little ridiculously positioned. Never the less, took a couple of photos for the price of a walk by.

I cheated a little as this is a night shot that I took a couple of nights later but eh, you get the idea. After cutting through Pigalle I started on my way up to Montmarte, making my way up the 130 mtrs or so to the highest point in the city.

It's amazing, almost everywhere you turn you see a place of importance or a well known site. As I made my way up to the top of the hill I encountered the stairs of Rue Foyatier. I don't know how many black and white shots I've seen of this staircase and at the end of the day, they're just a set of stairs right, but it's Paris and even if you're single you can help but get wrapped up in the romance of it all - yes, the little sensitive Cancerian that I am, it's a blessing and a curse all in one.

Walking through the area I couldn't help but thing how damn quaint, cute and cool it was. I absolutely loved it and it ended up being one of my favourite areas of Paris, probably just behind Le Marais and on par with the area that I was staying in, the Latin Quarter.

The most famous building in the area however is the Basilica of the Sacré Cœur, a white domed church on top of butte Montmarte (so yeah, the hill of Montmarte) which overlooks Paris and can be regarded as probably the third best view going around, after the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe. I've got to say, another breathtaking site of real beauty which holds a commanding position and definitely acts as a reference point when you're trying to triangulate positioning when walking the streets with no particular destination in mind. Kind of reminds me of Sydney in that sense, I often say to visitors, if you can see Sydney Tower then you should know roughly where you are. In Paris if you can see the Eiffel Tower and the Basilica then there's no reason at all you should be lost unless you're drunk out of your mind.

As the afternoon drew on I headed back down into Pigalle and picked myself out a bar for a couple of afternoon cocktails, from memory I took on a Mojito and some other concoction with a Kahlua base. What the drinks did was to spark my appetite and for me that could only mean taking on a little inspiration from Anthony Bourdain and heading down into Le Marais area to check out a little placed called Chez Robert & Louise.

As I've already said, travelling around Paris and zipping from one side to another is not a difficulty at all. In an instant I was on a train, the station name currently escaping me, making a fast break for Les Halles and then perhaps another change to get to Hotel de Ville. Again, I think the naming is close but I'm not quite on the money.

Le Marais , meaning 'marsh' in French is said to be a bourgeois area of Paris, cutting across the 3rd and 4th arrondissement. You know, Wikipedia told me that - although back in the day when the area was marsh, I hazard a guess and say that it definitely wasn't for the 'well to do'. Just walking around however I could see what Wikipedia meant, chic bars, restaurants, cool bookstores, antique shops, any shops. You also get a bit of a community mix, distinctly gay but also Jewish and I was also feeling a strong Turkish presence. In any case I loved it and ended up spending a little more time there in the next few days plus getting my locks chopped off (silly, silly move - there was really no point)....but yeah, definitely my favourite area of Paris.....a favourite amongst many favourites.

Now, a little about Chez Robert & Louise. As Bourdain does, he cruises cities and hits various areas of a town picking up bits and pieces of culinary interest. This stop, on his Paris show was one that intrigued me. The food was distinctly 'old school French', hearty, tasty of course, and cooked on an open fire in the back of the restaurant. Now I call it a restaurant but this place is extremely small, like a large kitchen. It squeezes in its customers who I don't think mind too much due to its great rustic, earthly setting and has an overwhelmingly homelike feel.....my type of place. I pulled up a seat at the counter and just had to take down the blood sausage. Yeah, it may sound fiendish but bloody hell, was it tasty. Here are a few shots from this fantastic little pitstop.

I've got to say, Bourdain got it absolutely right. Sitting back having a few glasses of red with my blood sausage, some fantastic pork belly and an unbelievably homely and cool environment the place and the city was already starting to grow on me, like I new it would. Truthfully Paris never had a chance, I was going to 'claim it' from the get go.

More than satisfied I walked through the Marais with the late evening twighlight illuminating the tops of the buildings and giving the whole area a magical type of feel. Wanting to continue on with my day I decided that I'd get my tail over to the Arc de Triomphe and take a few photos at night just to capture the lights of Paris. I've added a few photos below, this is what rounded out an amazing first day in my favourite town going around.

Twighlight on the streets of Paris





Arc de Triomphe