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Thursday, October 19, 2017

Merzouga - Erg Chebbi (Morocco) - Not the Saharan Sahara

MERZOUGA - ERG CHEBBI (Morocco)
19 October - 20 October 2017



As with most things, ones something because too popular then there’s always some group that feels disenfranchised. The tipping point always comes with either the real or perceived financial rewards that one party received against another. The party missing out lashes out against their perceived loss.

In Erg Chebbi, on Morocco’s eastern frontier, there has been a proliferation of desert camps built upon the overwhelming interest and increase of tourists coming to the area in order to see the legendary sand dunes and experience the solitude, if only for one or two nights, of the Saharan desert. As of March 2019 however the Moroccan military, under the direction of the Moroccan government, went into Erg Chebbi (just outside of Merzouga) and without notice, started to disband the camps that were set up in the Erg Chebbi dunes.


Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


                                       Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco

The pretence for this action of course came under the heading of environmental conservation & security and safety concerns. The real reason, it appears, is that a relatively powerful group of hoteliers from Merzouga felt as though the camps were ‘dudding’ them out of potential income as tourists, such as myself, were not electing to stay in their hotels but rather in the desert camps.

Now these camps, for the most part, were and currently still are, legitimate business’s, registered in the correct manner, providing work/income for locals and promoting the tourism industry throughout Morocco.

The government it appears, had a different outlook, swayed perhaps by either family or friends that may indeed be invested in the hotel business in Merzouga.

The outcome, for now, is unresolved but it doesn’t seem that the camps will be back any time soon.


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco



Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco

Our camp site - Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco

Our camp site - Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Technically speaking, the sand dunes of Erg Chebbi are within an area understood to be semi Pre-Saharan steppes and not really part of the Saharan desert, which actually lies a fair distance south of the area. Which then beckons the real question, why the hell did we go there? We thought we were going to the Sahara!!! That’s the way it was billed! The Sahara! But did we fact check? No? Did I even look at a map to consider if these statements were correct, no.

For most people the technicalities associated with geography don’t mean much. Ah, a desert in Morocco is close enough to being in the Sahara….right

BUT…NO, THAT’S BULLSHIT – IT’S NOT

Lets go ahead and say that the experience of an overnight stay in the desert was probably Sahara like, and hence we made our decision to head out of Marrakech for a night and take in the look at feel of what a Saharan like desert may be.

It’s a fairly sizeable drive from Marrakech out to Merzouga, around 560kms and 8-9 hrs of travel. Cutting across the Atlas Mountains, through Ourzazate and dashing east towards the border the day felt long and admittedly we slept for some large part, particularly over the other side of the Atlas.

Arriving in Merzouga we were ushered into a hotel, along it appeared with a few other groups of tourists that arrived to do the same style of trip. All of which aligns to what I’ve read about the disgruntlement of hotel owners who were looking to align with specific camps in order to provide a type of ‘enhanced service’, i.e., somewhere to get changed, have refreshments and have showers prior to and after the camp.


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


45 mins after arriving we headed out to the Erg Chebbi dunes. Dropped off on the edge of the desert we boarded our vessels of the desert and headed out into the dunes, Lawrence of Arabia style.

Moving slowly and methodically through the dunes, the further we trekked the more we lost touch with known man made elements and the further we dived into a totally unfamiliar environment.


Morning  - Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco


It only took us passing a few dunes to come to the realisation that these hills formed by wind blown sand were both enormous, all encompassing and quite beautiful. What hits you more than anything though is the silence.  Other than the sound of the wind passing through the only other sounds were the hooves of the camels hitting the sand and the odd pieces of chatter from its passengers.

The camp itself was situated in a gully, bounded by high sand dunes on all sides, so it felt sheltered and protected. The tents themselves were good enough and the beds were comfortable. Carpets were spread out within the camp site and of course within the tents themselves, all in all, a comfortable experience and enjoyable.

The only disappointment for the night came when the promised bonfire and musical accompaniment decided not to make an appearance, or, decided that they couldn’t be stuffed. Not a huge issue but it would have been cool to have had that to support our evening. Still, when you’re out in the desert, its pitch black, the stars wrapping themselves around your visual universe and the silence pounding like a drum, it’s a hell of an experience.

The next work it was go back to where you came from. But prior to boarding our transit train of the desert, we had the opportunity to climb to the top of one of the main dunes surrounding the camp and take some photos.

Tuesday, October 17, 2017

Atlas Mountains (Morocco) - Contrasting views

THE HIGH ATLAS (Morocco)
17 October 2017


The greatest mountain range in North Africa has historically acted as a physical barrier between the northern plains and the pre-Sahara, and its Berber populated valleys have been and remain, living remotely to the rest of Morocco.And yet, when you're in these mountains then you could probably understand why they choose to do so.

Utterly beguiling and unique in its beauty, I recall my mother totally and utterly falling in love with this part of Morocco. The range of colours and the shifting landscape captures you unaware. Again, there's a power aura and attraction in this area that seems to be consistent with a lot of Morocco, that something intangible that both captures your attention and leaves you with an indelible memory that lingers long after the event.

Ait Ben Haddou - High Atlas - Morocco

Ait Ben Haddou - High Atlas - Morocco

Ait Ben Haddou - High Atlas - Morocco


Inga and I took a day trip into the mountains with dual objectives of seeing  Ait Ben Haddou and experiencing the mountains.

The village, Ksar of Ait Ben Haddou, has movie star qualities. Indeed I'm sure many people have encountered a seen or two with the villages as its star without even knowing its name or where it was located. Some of its film credits include Jewel of the Nile (1985), The Living Daylights (1987), Gladiator (2000), Alexandar (2004) and also appearances in Game of Thrones.

Ait Ben Haddou - High Atlas - Morocco

Ait Ben Haddou - High Atlas - Morocco

Ait Ben Haddou - High Atlas - Morocco


A great example of Moroccan earthen clay architecture, its brown as earth coloured buildings pile up spectacularly on a low hillock above a shallow reed strewn river which needs to be crossed from the village on the other side. Their impressive stature is even more discernible up close when you get an appreciation of both their volume and height, underlying the fact that their manner of construction was primarily to serve as a prime line of defence.

 High Atlas - Morocco

 High Atlas - Morocco

 High Atlas - Morocco


We were also fortunate enough to make a visit to the Draa Valley during this excursion. The Draa is a 125km belt of date palm oases that eventually merges into the Sahara near the village of M'Hamid. Inga of course flipped out at the idea of seeing real date palms and took the opportunity to stop, climb one and eat dates right off the tree. An impressive site in itself. To me however it was the greenery which springs up along the creek/river that provides a wonderfully vibrant and lush colour as a stand out amongst the deep, rich browns which predominate the landscape. The contrast is almost unbelievable is the shift from one colour palette to the other is not gradual but quite distinct.

Draa Valley - High Atlas - Morocco

Draa Valley - High Atlas - Morocco


It's a fabulous area of Morocco and certainly needs more than a single day outside of Marrakech. Perhaps one day in the future we'll be able to take a week and travel more intensely in these parts because the landscape if simply too rich and impressive not to dedicate more time to.

Monday, October 16, 2017

Marrakech (Morocco) - The metropolis of Atlas tribes

MARRAKECH (Morocco)
15 October - 21 October 2017


Marrakech is relentless, your senses are accosted with fervour and persistence. Chaotic, lively and at many times invasive, the sights, sounds, smells, tastes and touches of all things that will surround will also inevitably challenge the way you think, feel and act. 

Next stop on the Magical Mystery Tour - MARRAKECH
Barcelona El Prat airport - Spain

Riad Arabo-Andolouse- Marrakech Medina - Morocco


My first few days in Marrakech happened 9 years prior to this trip. Within the first 25 minutes of arriving in the city I had my mobile phone stolen and paid for the privilege, was pounded by 50 degree heat, was preyed upon by pickpockets and was hassled relentlessly in the main square, Djemma El Fna. It was only on my last day that the turn happened, the point in time where the madness, the characters, the oddities and frenzy of the city settled sufficiently for me to appreciate Marrakech for its point of difference and how special it truly was.

I returned to Marrakech 2 years after the initial visit, far wiser. I was more alert, aware of the environment and experienced enough to know how to negate the annoyances around the edges that can drive some people to turning their backs on such a magnetic place. 

This time, now on my 3rd visit, I was comfortable with the situation. I was far more pragmatic in my approach and thus was able to offer Inga my advice on how to navigate the myriad of events that we would inevitably be thrust into.

Marrakech Medina - Morocco

The Red City (or Pink City) of Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

The gorgeous outdoor patio of La Comptoir Darna - Marrakech - Morocco


The city has so many different facets to it. Mystical, moody, magnetic, alluring, chaotic, crazy. It's a city whose frenzied approach to all things goes directly against the far more measured approach of Europeans. Nothing typifies this more when you're attempting to haggle in souk and the process finishes without a sale. There's always an initial outburst from the sales person (always a man, so I'll say salesman), where they seem on the verge of telling you where to shove your dirhams. Their ferocious haggling techniques, ability to coerce and sell is legendary but beaten only by their short fuses. Still, walk away for a few minutes and come back to same person and all will be forgotten. There's a certain nonsensical allure to that.

La Foundouk - Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco


For me the Medina turns magical in the evening. Navigating the labyrinth of its back alleys with the assistance of extremely dim, yellow hued lamps, only adds to its sense of mystery. I mean that's the cool thing about being in a place you don't know, that feeling of excitement and anxiety that is so far removed from the mundane and routine at home. That part of travel, to me, is one of the most engaging. So when it comes to understanding the puzzle of Marrakech, all you can really say is that it's enigmatic. Bewildering, secret, and bold & brash. All elements are going to envelope you in one way or another.

We stayed for a total of six days in Marrackech, although admittedly 2 of those days we spent in the Moroccan Sahara near Merzouga and another day fully in the Atlas Mountains.

Our itinerary in Marrakech was full, and intentionally so. This is the type of place where the best you can do it keep up with it.

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Quad biking outside of Marrakech - Morocco


Quad biking outside of Marrakech - Morocco

Djemma El Fna at night - the buzz is quite something - Marrakech - Morocco

Djemma El Fna - Marrakech - Morocco



Of course spent a bit of time walking through the souks, which as many times as I've been there always appear to be endless. I don't think I've ever walked through and identified the other side,  which beckons the question of whether there really is an 'end' to the trade and commerce, or if perhaps its a portal to another dimension. You really can't take anything for granted in Marrakech because all is possible in the city. With all its strands of commerce and trade and the way the population has shaped the nature of its souks, its way of life is typified in the manner in which it does things right here. The medina surrounds this central spot, therefore this is the true epicentre of life in this Red City.

Perhaps its beyond my capacity to mention all aspects of Marrakech in one entry, so let me state some of the highlights below.

Quad biking outside of Marrakech - Morocco


Taking a rest from quad biking, mint tea, bread & honey - just the ticket, or tonic.




Djemma El Fna during the day - Marrakech - Morocco

Our guide to La Foundouk - Marrakech - Morocco


Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco


Dinner at Le Fondouk - for me, getting to Le Fondouk is the highlight of this experience. Hidden in the back alleys of the medina is a wonderful restaurant but getting there on your own would only be for the intrepid. When you do arrive a guide takes you with the aid of a lantern through the backstreets to the restaurant itself. For ambience & atmosphere this place is an absolute must.

Evening food tour - Absolutely fantastic. We took a guided tour through the souk and tried delicacies that we may not have considered on our own. Goats head (I ate the eye ball, which was in fact delicious), snails, specific food stalls in Djemma El Fna. All the food was tasty, delicious and probably would not have made it onto our radar without the necessary guidance.

Quad Bike tour - Half day quad bike tour outside of Marrakech. An exhilarating experience cruising through the parched countryside and into the foot hills surrounding the city

Drinks at Comptoir Darna - sitting out on the patio at Comptoir Darna, having sheesha and a few drinks is just a magical experience. Moody & atmospheric, just like Marrakech itself.

Dinner at La Mamounia - Set on a formal royal estate from the 12th century, this hotel is stunning and having dinner outside in their gardens just a real pleasure