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Thursday, January 4, 2024

The Grampians (Australia) - Tiny stay, tiny house

The Grampians (Australia)

04 JAN - 07 JAN 2024

The benefits from a having a short break allows all of us to slow down a little and take a breather from the pace of the daily routines to which we’ve come accustomed. You tend to forget how the pace of everyday life and the regiment of routine becomes so ingrained in your psyche until you step into the first moment that you’re truly away from it.  Also, considering Aiden’s newly acquired understanding of what it means to leave home, and the excitement that he exudes in anticipation of discovering a new place or ‘going to another hotel’, or identifying a play opportunity, travelling and the anticipation of it has become far more enjoyable once again. Not that it was ever not enjoyable but those travelling with infants & toddlers know all about the challenges encountered on the way to those temporary periods of ‘freedom’.

Only on reflection do you notice that time operates at a speed to which we never truly become accustomed. Inga & I have in Melbourne now for nearly the past 6 years, where the hell did that go? In that time the destinations that have quite often lured us in their direction and away from the comforts of our abode  have been the Yarra Valley, the Mornington Peninsula and the Great Ocean Road. Certainly other places have been on our radar, such as Rutherglen, Mildura, Gippsland and the Snowy Mountains but we haven’t quite made it to those place as yet. As for the Grampians, certainly there  was one occasion prior to Aiden being born that Inga and I did make our way to their for what was only aa long afternoon stay but admittedly it the idea was very well constructed only really an afterthought, a haphazardly bolted on addition to another cruisey drive along the southern coastline.

On this occasion our escape was planned and we had orientated our Grampians discovery around the booking we had made for a tiny house, accommodation which was situated in the little locale of Dadswell Bridge, about 35kms north of Halls Gap, a quaint little town nestled in the heart of the Grampians.

The idea of tiny houses doesn’t seem to be too dissimilar to the concept of caravans or motor homes but somehow their concept has been elevated to incorporate a new way of living rather than just occupying the space of having a mobile conveyor of the comforts of home. Having watched countless shows on the ‘tiny house movement’ for several years now, the both of us have been fascinated by the designs and concepts that makes its way into the overarching premise of downsizing and embracing minimalist living within compact spaces. The movement itself advocates for a lifestyle choice underpinned by financial freedom, sustainability and a movement away from excess consumption, although sometimes the house you see are really just miniature mansions. In any case, what we identified in the Grampians was just the tonic we needed for our short time away.

For those that are unaware, the Grampians is rugged mountain range located approximately 250kms west of Melbourne, offering stunning scenery and some exceptional wine regions. Also known for its exceptional hiking, the challenge we faced was how invested would we be in getting Aiden to walk up rugged trails for a view as opposed to sitting inside a comfortable winery watching ‘anything he could think of’ on a phone and accompanying his parents through their ‘wine knowledge and discovery tour’.  Whilst time would tell the winner of that option its not a stretch to identify at this early juncture where we landed.

After picking up Inga from work on a Thursday evening we did a short drive to Ballarat and stayed at the lovely Oscars Hotel & Café Bar in the centre of town. A very pleasant stop, we found the staff to be extremely friendly, the rooms lovely and spacious and the common areas to be equally as inviting. I’m not sure why but of all the options for a one-night stay in Ballarat at this time appeared to be excessively priced and Oscars by comparison offered the most value by fair margin. So, well done Oscars all-round.

Oscars Hotel & Cafe - Ballarat - Victoria - Australia

The next day we found ourselves on the road to Dadwells Bridge, which was only an additional 150kms west of Ballarat. Passing through the towns of Beaufort, Buangor and Ararat, we made our first planned and ‘civilised’ stop at the wonderful Grampians estate winery near Great Western.

In our own continued self-discovery of wines, both international and domestic, neither of us had really  at any point encountered wines that had originated in the Grampians. It was only after the fact that we have now become acquainted with the much-celebrated Great Western wine region, characterised by its unique terroir, cool to moderate climate, rich soil and distinctive wines. It certainly came as a surprise to us during our first tasting that both the Shiraz and the sparkling Shiraz were standouts. Both of us more commonly associate Shiraz options as being bold, peppery and high in tannin but the first option at Grampians Estate (and all those that followed), were softer, velvety and slightly fruitier that what we were used to.

A lovely Shiraz - Grampians Estate - Great Western - Victoria - Australia

Grampians Estate - Great Western - Victoria - Australia

Grampians Estate - Great Western - Victoria - Australia

Grampians Estate - Great Western - Victoria - Australia

Grampians Estate - Great Western - Victoria - Australia

Our time at Grampians Estate was lovely and if an additional drive down the road wasn’t a necessity our long lunch would have become an extended afternoon. The sun was out, it was a beautiful day, and like many wineries that we attended in the region, they were thoughtful enough to supply options to keep children occupied whilst parents were undertaking ‘future reconnaissance’. Whilst Aiden took to the challenge of colouring-in, Inga and I continued to ‘develop our palates’

Approximately 45 mins away from Grampians Estate heading west, we arrived in Dadswells Bridge we made our way to ‘Tiny House 11’ at Grampians Edge.  From what was obviously once a camping and caravan park, the complex had been converted into a tiny house park, which for our small family was the perfect option to be able to stay in a quaint and cozy retreat set amidst the picturesque Grampian landscape.  Whilst the tiny houses are purposefully minimalist, I have to say that what you do get within each space is quite the surprise. It’s more than surprising to see how the needs of a kitchen, bathroom, lounging space and bed are craftily fitted within what is quite a confined space. For us it was perfect.

The rest of the day we spent utilising the facilities, which was mostly orientated about the swimming pool and the lovely recreational room, which had a huge TV, games, pool table and cooking facilities.

Tiny Away - Dadswells Bridge - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

Tiny Away - Dadswells Bridge - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

Tiny Away - Dadswells Bridge - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

Tiny Away - Dadswells Bridge - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia


Our second day in the Grampians proved to be both the litmus test and the true challenge to our ‘steely resolve’ to do a little bit of hiking and check out a view or two in the area. I have to say, both Inga & I had our thoughts aligned to  be doing a walk to the ‘the Balcony’ lookout at some point in the  but when Aiden & I, ‘come a gutser’ whilst trying to cross a local creek in the centre of Halls Gap, our drenched clothes put pay to idea that we’d be doing any walking, which admittedly we more than adapted to by putting our ‘plan B’ option into effect which was to investigate more of those pesky local wineries.

Through the course of the afternoon, we made two distinct steps into the world of the Grampians wine region, the first being at Pomonal Estate & the second at Fallen Giants Vineyard.

It was at about the mid-point of our first tasting at Pomonal that it started to dawn on us as to how special the Shiraz was in this region. You know when you feel as though you’ve made an astonishing ‘discovery’ on your own accord and gain that sense of internal pride that you’ve managed to figure out a clue all to yourself (only for it to be pointed out that the whole world had already beaten you to the punch), well yeah, that’s how our discovery of Grampians Shiraz played out. I’d equate it to something akin to that one time when I ‘discovered’  the extraordinary quality and ubiquity of Malbec & Steak in Buenos Aires (whoa, speed racer alert to Captain Obvious).

Still, no matter how far back in the pack we’ve been with regards to the knowledge we’ve had for this region, which effectively has been nothing, on this day we were more than charmed by the sophistication and elegance of the wines we’d been offered. Perhaps the Grampians isn’t exactly the hidden gem of Australian wine regions, which was certainly the narrative we were started to create in our minds, but the fact that it was unknown to us is what made this little excursion such the welcome treat. Additionally, the bonus that we found at the wineries we attended was their thoughtfulness as to thinking about the ‘little companions’ the get dragged along to these boring places. Pomonal Estate had sporting equipment on their lawn for any visitor to use, which Aiden & I certainly did, playing cricket to Inga’s eternal abhorrence, and Fall Giants had both indoor and outdoor options, which we all made use of. Once again, to all Grampians wineries that we visited, well done! You should be congratulated!


Pomonal Estate - Halls Gap - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

Pomonal Estate - Halls Gap - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

Pomonal Estate - Halls Gap - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

Pomonal Estate - Halls Gap - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

Pomonal Estate - Halls Gap - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

Pomonal Estate - Halls Gap - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

Fallen Giants Winery - Halls Gap - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

After another lovely afternoon in the Grampians, we headed back to our tiny abode, had ourselves a great BBQ feast, accompanied by some fantastic liquid support, and even managed to get an evening fire going which allowed us to introduce Aiden to the ‘fire toasted’ marshmallow concept. Surprisingly not a hit on the first occasion but I think he’ll have time to warm up to the idea.

Tiny Away - Dadswells Bridge - The Grampians - Victoria - Australia

On our final day we headed out of Dadswells Bridge just after 10am at started the 250km journey back home, doing a short drive to Great Western and stopping in at the renowned Seppelt Winery. Boasting a rich viticulture history dating back to 1851, we once again learned what this region is famous for, producing some premium cool-climate wines, highlighted by a few glorious Shiraz and Sparking Shiraz bottles. Once again, a fabulous place, that has a couple of additional surprising experience in terms of their underground tunnel tours (which we unfortunately didn’t have time to do). The tunnels below Seppelt were initially created in about 1868, having been hand-dug by local gold miners to store their wines in what they considered to be optimal conditions. Over the proceeding 60+ years, successive owners expanded the maze-like tunnels to an impressive 3kms, which established an enormous underground cellaring system, the largest in Australia, having the capacity to store in the vicinity of 3 million bottles of wine at a constant temperature of 16 degrees.

Seppelt Winery - Great Western - Victoria - Australia

Seppelt Winery - Great Western - Victoria - Australia

After a great tasting session and a bit of a kick around of the footy with Aiden on Seppelt’s vineyard lawn, we drove only a short distance to the Great Western hotel for some lunch and a last glass of Shiraz before heading for home.

Whilst we didn’t spend a long time away, this short vacation was effectively for us the expresso shot of travelling …compact, intense and guaranteed to leave us both energised and buzzing for more equally enjoyable experiences, hopefully in the very near future.


Tuesday, October 10, 2023

Da Nang (Vietnam) - memories fade into the distant night of time's embrace

Da Nang (Vietnam)

08 - 10 October 2023

In 1965, the shores of Da Nang bore witness to an indelible moment etched in history—the landing of American troops, their footprints mingling with the grains of sand on those golden beaches. Yet, as the relentless passage of time marches forward, those echoes have gradually dissipated into the sea breeze. The once-significant presence, a pivotal chapter in the annals of war, now wanes into obscurity. These sands, once imprinted by the weight of valour and conflict, now cradle the foundations of towering hotels, standing as sentinels to a forgotten past. The whispers of those who once walked this shore have been swept away by the tides, leaving behind a landscape where memories lie dormant, buried beneath layers of progress and tranquillity.


American troops - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam 1965

Who knows how many faces in that photo are just memories in someone's mind, who knows how many of them made it back home, and how many were unfortunate enough to have their lives cruelly cut short so far from home.

It's nearly 60 yrs since those soldiers set foot on My Khe beach, and certainly for me standing there, looking at the surrounding plumes of tourist-driven capitalism with some knowledge of the events that have occurred here, it seems to be a strange dichotomy. The weight and gravity of war simply washed away with the passing of time, without considering its impact, without a concern. I understand that's probably not entirely the case but it does feel peculiar and a little challenging to simply accept Da Nang (My Khe Beach) for what it now stands for, which is a beautiful and burgeoning tourist destination.

Tourane Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam (2007)


Tourane Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam (2007)


It had been 16 years since the last time I had stay in Da Nang, which was at the Tourane Hotel on My Khe beach. Now when I had booked in our two night stay at the Sala Da Nang hotel, just off My Khe beach, I really had no idea at the location of my previous stay all those years prior. But as is the case with me, which Inga can certainly attest to, the moment we arrived at our accommodation I was overwhelmed by a sense of the familiar - I even said to Inga, 'I think I've stayed very near to here previously' and pointed at the Tourane Hotel (the back of the hotel being directly across the street from our current location). It's odd how some specific locations have the ability to will you back.

Our stay in Da Nang on this occasion was to just allow us to fully immerse ourselves in 'holiday mode', soak up the lovely beach atmosphere and commit to not doing much else other than relaxing, drinking the odd cocktail and admiring the wonderful views.

Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam

Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam


Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam


Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam


Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam

The whole coastline from Da Nang down to Hoi An is being overrun and occupied by every hotel chain you can imagine. Mega resort after mega resort for 10's of kilometres. Certainly the invasion had already commenced prior to my first experience of Da Nang in 2007, and even at that time you were more than aware that the explosion of hotels on this pristine coastline was going to have an incredible impact on the landscape, as well as the economy. What was once an untouched stretch of coastline now stands adorned with a multitude of accommodations, ranging from boutique retreats to towering luxury resorts. The allure of this coastal haven has beckoned developers and tourists alike, resulting in an evolving skyline where each hotel competes for a panoramic view of the cerulean sea. I wonder, if I come back here in another 16 years what exactly will I see? I replica of the Gold Coast, or even Dubai perhaps.


Dragon Bridge (Rong Bridge) - Han River - Da Nang - Vietnam

Dragon Bridge (Rong Bridge) - Han River - Da Nang - Vietnam

Dragon Bridge (Rong Bridge) - Han River - Da Nang - Vietnam

The most we managed to do outside of lazing around the hotel pool or going to the beach to walk the 2kms was to the famous Dragon Bridge which stretches 665mtrs across the Han River in downtown Da Nang. The bridge is shaped like an undulating golden dragon and on weeknights it comes to life in quite an unusual way: the bridge is closed to traffic, and the massive dragon head on the east end of the bridge releases bursts of flames and water in a spectacular nightly show. I have to say, we were fully expectant of the flames but the bursts of water were a 'refreshing' surprise, and it quickly turned every person standing in its path into a young child once again. It was terrific.

Dragon Bridge (Rong Bridge) - Han River - Da Nang - Vietnam

Dragon Bridge (Rong Bridge) - Han River - Da Nang - Vietnam

View of Da Nang from the Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Vietnam


Esco Beach Lounge - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam


On the way home - Vietnam Airlines - Da Nang > Hanoi > Ho Chi Minh > Melbourne

And that my friends was the final brush stroke of our Vietnamese holiday. What a beautiful, well earned, and what I anticipate to be 'a well remembered' holiday it was for all of us. I was slightly concerned at the start that Vietnam might be a little difficult, even arduous for a four-year old, but it was nothing of the sort. Our travels were easy and our experiences were exciting, fun and very enjoyable. I've always found Vietnam to be a very special country for the many things it has to offer, it's people, food, landscapes, history, etc., and now I'd be more than happy to recommend it has a family holiday destination. A truly wonderful experience and hopefully a place that we'll all get to experience together again at some point in the future.



Saturday, October 7, 2023

Ba Na Hills (Vietnam) - bridges of gold

Ba Na Hills (Vietnam)

07 October 2023

The next destination on our list was a place that I only came across very recently and it was directly  due to the myriad of Instagram posts that devoted shot after shot to monolithic, almost God like hands of concrete cast against a backdrop of ethereal blue…but more of that in a moment, let me get to the intro.

Welcome to Sun World in Ba Na Hills, a marvel nestled over 20 kilometres from downtown Da Nang a part of the whimsical Sun World Amusement Park Group. Picture this: perched is a place of wonder at a staggering 1,487 meters above sea level, in Vietnam! Somehow you don’t equate that elevation to anything that exists relatively close to the coastline, especially when you’ve been spending a large amount of your time at the beach. But here in the mountains just outside of Da Nang is a place that many people it's tagged as the "heaven on earth" for its topography, jaw-dropping views of the surrounding area, its unique climate and wonderful natural beauty. Certainly as a part of a to-do list of sightseeing locations in the area of Da Nang & Hoi An it didn’t immediately stand out as a must-see but the afternoon that we spent in the Ba Na Hills was more than pleasant, even if the weather wasn’t quite as supportive of our intentions.


Entrance to Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

Entrance to Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

As a visitor we had been pre-warned, ‘prepare yourselves for a rollercoaster ride through all four seasons in a single day’. Now, coming from Melbourne, this the typical line that will greet any travel on their arrival to our city. In fact, just the other day I was on a ‘Melbourne Facebook page’ where the comment was to come up with a logo to exemplify and showcase what’s special about our city. None too surprising that ‘expect four seasons in a day’ was one of most popular lines that us Melburnians wanted to utilise in order to showcase the city (strange but true). So, we should have paid a little more attention of what Ba Na Hills was advocating before rolling up at 3pm on a typical weekday afternoon. Still, you just don’t associate a 15-18 degree drop in temperature when you’re wearing shorts, experiencing a lovely sunny day, and only driving about 20kms inland from the coast.


The Toc Tien-L’Indochine cable line - Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

Golden Bridge - Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

Ba Na Hills has been known as the shining star of Vietnam's tourist spots, especially in Central Vietnam. In fact, it bagged the "Top Tourist Resort of Vietnam" crown four years in a row from 2015 to 2018. In its 11-year journey, Sun World Ba Na Hills has become the go-to spot for locals and globetrotters alike in Danang, and sure, there’s reasonable reasons to support the local endearment and foreign fascination. First there’s the outlandish cable car system, it’s incredible and globally recognised. Not that the plaudits from CNN should have any real bearing on its significance but they did rank the network as one of the most 10 impressive cable car infrastructure systems globally. Comprising of 5 different routes, there is an accumulated capacity of 7000 people an hour that can get moved from the car-park to the mountain top village. It also holds a number of accolades and records alike, specifically, the Toc Tien-L’Indochine line which maintains Guiness World Record status for the longest one-wire sling, the greatest elevation between stations, the longest unpatched wire and the heaviest cable roll in the world. All of this you can both experience and witness in the 17 mins ride that will take you to the mountain top.

For me, the real highlight was visiting the 150m long Golden Bridge that’s supported by the ‘hands of God’. As I’ve mentioned earlier, surely this placed has been Instagrammed to death but that doesn’t mean, to me at least, that the place isn’t worth the visit. I’ll never understand how a location suddenly starts to draw attention for being ‘over photographed’ and starts to be spoken of in lessor terms just for people popular. We arrived on what was a fairly dreary, cold-ish, mid-week day, with an average crowd, and I still thought it was spectacular. Certainly, if I was to suggest the best time to be here then I’d say at sunset – the colours & the mood shift the scene into something extraordinarily magical, and by that time the foot traffic would have reduced significantly. My hot-tip, come late afternoon or early evening.

Golden Bridge - Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

Golden Bridge - Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

Golden Bridge - Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

Golden Bridge - Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

Certainly the Golden Bridge isn’t the only thing to see at Sun World, just a short-cable car ride up the mountain is a lovely representation of a French Village, a time machine that drops you smack dab in serene, old-school France, complete with squares, churches, old villages, and cozy inns. Sure, it’s not ‘authentic’ and yes, ‘its touristy’, but who cares. Experiences can be constructed in a number of ways. If you’ve travelled Europe and ‘know your real from your rip-off deal’ and if you think you may feel somewhat ‘offended’ by a European replica in Vietnam, then don’t come. The thing is, this place isn’t really built with you in mind, it’s resort and location built for the people of Vietnam that may never get to experience the true wonders of Europe but can have access to something in their backyard that provides them with something unique and enjoyable. Coupled with that, there’s also a plethora of restaurants scattered across the mountain top, Asia & European food, diverse buffets – it’s an experience.

Golden Bridge - Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

French Village - Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

Golden Bridge - Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

View out over Da Nang- Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

Golden Bridge - Sun World - Ba Na Hills - Vietnam

We all had fun during our visit and I’m glad that we took a few hours out of our day in Hoi An to come up here. I’d even say that it would be worth a dedication of a few more hours on our next visit as we only allowed ourselves 3-3.5hrs in total and there seemed like much more to see and do here, especially on a nicer day.

Wednesday, October 4, 2023

Hoi An (Vietnam) - Festival of light - 'Ephemerosy'

Hoi An (Vietnam)

04 October - 08 October 2023

Ever snapped a photo and felt that someday, perhaps years later, you'll   have a photo in hand *ahem*, jpeg on screen,  and be gazing back into that moment, finding yourself immersed in a blend of nostalgia, anticipation, and the profound realization of time passing? What do you call that feeling? What is that called? Is there a word to capture that inevitable feeling, is it "Pronoia"?

There have been countless instances in my travels, and in my life, where I've anticipated in the moment how and in what form I'd reminisce about that exact point in time from a distant future. And even though I fully comprehend that it's just continuum of events (or moments) that connect what feel like two distant point  in my memory, when I actually get to the ‘other side’, peering through the mists of time,  there’s both a sensation of being linked and also somewhat detached simultaneously—a liminal sensation, like I’m standing on the edge of myself, yet knowing I was part of that past moment and knowing that I had thought in the past about myself inevitably looking back.

"Pronoia," itself is belief that the world conspires favourably to put you in a reasonably good position and so I don’t think that its encapsulate the exact sentiment I’m going for. So perhaps I’ll create a term, something like "ephemerosy."

EPHEMEROSY – in case you’re wondering, the sentiment is meant to encompass the fleeting nature of moments (the ephemeral) coalesced with wistfulness and nostalgia, or the ‘rosy’ view. It’s meant to encapsulate the bittersweet and the somewhat oddly surreal essence of reminiscing about how you think about and perceive a past moment in your future.

Truth be told, these days I experience this type of feeling almost daily with my son, knowing that 'this,' his present, will someday be a moment I'd yearn to revisit—a moment that will only be accessible to me at some point through photos or videos. Much the same way, I used to take mental pictures of my father driving away from the station each morning after he’d dropped me off. I knew that one morning there would be a final drive, the last time when he’d drive away, after which those visuals would just be a memory of the past, something that I’d need to retrieve from my internal hard drive.

We humans are dealt a cruel blow when it comes to the concept of time. We  perceive its directionality only from current to future, which can be cruel. Always advancing, never reversing, always departing. It's that departure that constantly resonates. Certainly we could argue that we're always arriving, which is true. Yet, arrival lacks foresight, it lacks certainty and clarity, while departing is constantly marked by retrospection.

I've always believed in precognition, which for me is not the idea of truly foreseeing events but more so about sensing the circumstance of future places and moments. Let me give you an example, for me personally, I'd always envisioned and inherently felt that at some point I would have a wife and son to accompany me future travel adventures. Even in during my exceptional tenure of enigmatic singleness, even when I was getting on in years and nearing my 40th birthday, it was there. Even when the mechanics of that vision seemed absolutely unclear, or in fact, impossible, there was always an internal certainty—an innate understanding of a future truth that felt pre-determined.

And I have to say, it’s an odd realization when an anticipated future becomes the present.

Arriving at Ga Ha Noi station, the main train station in Hanoi, it felt oddly familiar.  Navigating the ticket validation process, the platform entrances, boarding the right carriage—it felt preordained. Of course, I'd traversed this exact journey previously, back in 2009, with my good friend Jet Frichot (which you can read about here Escape from Hanoi (2009). But the point is that there was a feeling or certainty in me that there would be a time in the future when I would do this journey again and that it would be with my own family. Maybe that’s odd? Or maybe that’s just life and that’s the way everyone thinks. Who knows?


The Reunification Express - SE3 - Violette train - Ha Noi to Da Nang (Vietnam)

The overnight trip from Ha Noi to Da Nang generally spans about 16-17 hours.  On this evening we were scheduled to take the SE3, Reunification Express, departing Ha Noi at 19:20 and with an arrival time in Da Nang of 12:28.

For all of you that want to know a little more about the Reunification express and luxury train travel in Vietnam, let me just clarify. The SE3, Violette train, (4) berth VIP luxury cabin option isn't quite the romantic, cocktail-laced, piano bar-style journey that one might associated with luxury train travel. That in itself may be why some travellers tend to criticize Vietnam Rail's service. Let me be clear however, Vietnam never touts this service as defining the ‘concept of luxury’. The reality of the service is never overplayed. Certainly it’s a basic and relatively comfortable overnight trip which traverses Vietnam.  You’ll get some essential amenities, like a crude toilet and equally crude public wash basin, and yes, you’ll mainly spend the duration of the journey in your small box of a cabin with any noteworthy highlights coming into frame within final 90 minutes of the approach to Da Nang….but so what? The point is that it get you from departure station to arrival station a minimum of fuss.

For any of those that are looking for pointers, please see below:

My advice for this journey:

  • Temper your accommodation expectations; it's adequate and functional.
  • Bring sufficient food and drinks for the 16-hour trip; onboard options are limited.
  • If you're a light sleeper, bring earplugs and an eye mask.
  • Rest well in the morning; the best scenery is just 90 minutes from Da Nang.
  • Expect shared cabins and avoid anticipating luxury
  • Bring along back-up toiler paper because you never know.

Arriving at Da Nang station, we were swift in exiting and hopped into our waiting transfer. In fact we were into our vehicle so fast and speeding southward to Hoi An before you could say 'Can I have chili on that Bahn Mi?'. For the uninitiated, be aware that every station, every airport and more than likely every arrivals hall, anywhere in Vietnam, will be awash with touts baying for your fiscal lifeblood. My advice is just cut the hassle and cut the unnecessary thought process of trying to deduce the best deal? There is no best deal when it comes to taxis and yes, everyone of them is out to price gouge to varying extents – why not set yourself a ride up in advance? It’s ready on arrival and it completely negates any anxiety you may feel that negotiating the ‘offside trap’.

Hoi An

If you've never been to Hoi An, let me tell you, it's a marvel. Nestled a couple of kilometres inland from some wonderful beaches that face out onto the South China Sea and sidled neatly against the Ton Bon river, this town weaves together a captivating tapestry of historical richness and timeless charm. Its UNESCO World Heritage status certainly speaks volumes, and it easily draws in travellers from all over the world with its maze of ancient streets, lantern-lit alleys, hidden bars and restaurants, glorious weather and warm, friendly people.

Hoi An Golden Holiday Hotel & Spa - Hoi An - Vietnam

Hoi An Golden Holiday Hotel & Spa - Hoi An - Vietnam

Hoi An is effectively an open-air museum that’s been coloured magnificently a by a mixture of Vietnamese, Chinese, and Japanese influences. It manages to evoke a tangible sense of history, which is something you can get to grasp almost immediately.

After our approximately 45 min drive south from Da Nang’s major rail station, we arrived and settled into the fabulous Hoi An Golden Holiday Hotel & Spa. A really wonderful boutique hotel with magnificent staff, great amenities and excellent proximity to Hoi An’s old town centre. Not that we gave ourselves any real amount of time to absorb our immediate surroundings because as soon as we’d finished lunch we gotten ourselves changed and were exiting the building in earnest to do some sightseeing.

                              Hoi An T/T Cocktail Bar, Coffee & Antiques - Hoi An - Vietnam


This is truly a lovely spot - located at 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, in the Old Town. The owners are a really nice couple from Hanoi, AND, they make one hell of an egg-coffee. Definitely go here!


An Hoi Bridge - Hoi An - Vietnam

Hoi An - Vietnam

                                           The hidden laneways of Hoi An - Vietnam

Hopping on the gratis rental bikes that our hotel kindly provide to all guests, we got to pedalling the short 1.5kms towards into the town centre, in the process riding past many typically framed Hoi An style buildings characterised by their ochre-yellow colours adornments of intricate wood carvings. There’s just an immediate sense of stepping back in time once you enter the old town. As a one time bustling trading point you get to see the remnants of a bygone era, with wooden Chinese shopfronts standing side by side with colourful French colonial buildings and ornate Vietnamese tube houses.

One of many great things about the old town of Hoi An is that its pedestrian privileged as there’s a strict ‘no car policy’. You can spend your time leisurely strolling through its quaint streets without the havoc that you associate with other major Vietnamese cities. This in itself adds to entire experience, allowing you to easily absorb, observe and experience with a frenetic manufactured pace being imposed on you. Inga, Aiden and I strolled through the cobble stone streets, taking in the surrounds and stopping pointedly to have one of the famous Vietnamese egg coffees (which in actual fact a translated creations from Hanoi).


                As night descends Hoi An quickly transforms into something quite special

Lantern boat rides - Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam

                                  Lantern boat rides - Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam



                  Inga & Aiden loving the lantern boat rides- Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam

However you may perceive Hoi An during the day, as twilight descends the town metamorphoses into a realm of magic and enchantment, allowing itself to become awash with colourful lanterns that adorn the streets, the  waterways and all sorts of boating craft on the river. Glowing plums of colour paint vibrant rainbows of light on an ever-darkening canvas. The transformation if both enchanting and captivating. I’ve always had fond memories of Hoi An, especially in the way that it transformed from its daytime personality of ancient daytime trading hub into a nocturnal wonderland. But was once ‘just’ some of beauty has now become ever so grand and majestic. Hoi An’s night expose is now on steroids, it has elevated its evening allure to be facilitated with gorgeous lantern boat rides and a number of light-infused experiences. To me however the true highlight was simply witnessing Inga and Aiden reaction to their first time experience of Hoi An's enchantment. Neither of them had any sort of benchmark, nothing to compare it to, so all of this was a first, and you could see the impact that it had just from noting their facial expressions and reactions. This is now the part of travelling that I truly love the most. For me, their excitement stands as the true essence of this journey. Their joy now becomes the true price of admission.

Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam

                                 An Hoi Bridge - Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam


Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam

The magic of Hoi An at night

                                                 Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam

Hoi An is a very different beast to when I was last here 

Some of the other highlights we had in Hoi An over the next few days included riding out to An Bang beach, another slice of paradise. Palms tree, cocktails, crashing waves, breezy days and the quintessential beach scene. Quaint beach bars amplifying its attraction, allowing you to casually while away hours under a bright sun and soundtrack of waves riding up the shoreline.

The Deckhouse - An Bang Beach - near Hoi An - Vietnam

The Deckhouse - An Bang Beach - near Hoi An - Vietnam

                              The Deckhouse - An Bang Beach - near Hoi An - Vietnam


                               The Deckhouse - An Bang Beach - near Hoi An - Vietnam


                             The Deckhouse - An Bang Beach - near Hoi An - Vietnam

On another day we took a round boat basket ride on the Ton Bon River. From what we found out, the round basket boat in Hoi An dates back over 2000 years to the Cham people who settled in the area. Originally designed for fishing in shallow waters, the circular shape of these boats allowed for fisherman to easily move around and collect fish from their nets. These days of course the round boats are still part of Vietnamese culture but these days, perhaps more significantly, it’s become a way for tourists to have a different sort of experience and its both exciting and unique for this part of the world.

Chu An cafe - Hoi An - Vietnam

                          The Deckhouse - An Bang Beach - near Hoi An - Vietnam


                                Bamboo boat ride - Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam


Bamboo boat ride - Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam

Bamboo boat ride - Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam

                              Bamboo boat ride - Thu Bon River - Hoi An - Vietnam

Hoi An, it’s a place of culinary delights, tailor shops, Full Moon festivals — but also so much more. It's also a symphony of history, culture, and flavours that will forever linger in our memories.

I'm so glad that we all got to experience Hoi An's magic and I know it'll leave an indelible mark on Inga & Aiden. Whilst this was just their first encounter, somewhere in their thoughts, I know that they sense that Hoi promise of wonder and magic is not just a one time experience.