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Tuesday, March 10, 2020

Melbourne & Sydney (Australia) - The Hot Zone

Melbourne & Sydney (Australia)

10 March - 20 March 2020

By the time the start of March had greeted us we all had a fairly good idea that the pandemic was upon us. We were still living in much the same way but there was an unease on the streets when it came to errant sneezes, proximity to those that weren't family members and movements in public generally.

This post is more about the two weeks that preceded the 20th of March, especially those last couple of days when the gravity of what was upon us started to hit home with flight cancellations, empty streets and untamed toilet paper envy.

Rather than having photos support the story, for the next few entries I'll write directly to the photos that are being posted.

The Gin Palace - 10 Russel Street - Melbourne - Australia

In the foreground a Japanese Negroni and in the background a Floral Negroni.
I had waited so long for David & Annija to get to Melbourne and I'd wanted to take them out on my very own 'hidden bar tour'. The Gin Palace had been a long time favourite of mine, back from my days of living in Sydney.

The Croft Institute - Croft Alley - Melbourne - Australia

I love the lane-ways of Melbourne. Turn down a shabby, none too inviting lane and inevitably you'll come upon something great. The beauty of it, as this photo shows, it that just by turning up here and not knowing of its existence you wouldn't think to do any more investigating.

The Croft Institute - Croft Alley - Melbourne - Australia

Davis taking his medicine like a pro!

The Croft Institute - Croft Alley - Melbourne - Australia

The Croft Institute - Croft Alley - Melbourne - Australia

There's a lot of 'Melbourne' in this simple photo

2110/7 Katherine Place - Melbourne - Australia

The view down the Yarra, to Flinders Street station and beyond was the real selling point of this apartment. I think its going to be a long while before we ever consider selling this place. What catches me in this photo is even very early on in the piece, this must have been around the 2nd week of March, evenings on the streets were eerily quiet. Flinders Street, typically, is buzzing until the early hours of the morning, in this photo there's only the odd car making its way.

Mary's Melbourne - 167 Franklin Street - Melbourne - Australia

There was a palpable feel about those early days of COVID. Another place that should have a healthy patronage is almost empty on a Saturday night. There's was something spectacularly weighty about being out and about to experience normal every day things before they came to a grinding halt.

Mary's Melbourne - 167 Franklin Street - Melbourne - Australia

Arbory Afloat - Yarra River - Melbourne - Australia

Now a summertime institution in Melbourne, Arbory afloat is open from late October until late March each year. Inga and her mother probably caught one of the last open days before closing down for the season

The Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

One of the great day trips out of Melbourne and certainly one of great drives in Australia. It's a long day but a worthwhile one. Here's Aiden and his uncle Davis at the start of what was a 16 hour day

The Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

Cruising out in your own Mustang is certainly a great experience

The Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

Aiden, Aunty Annija and Uncle Davis, with their driver for the day.
Cruising the Great Ocean Road


The Twelve Apostles - Victoria - Australia

Always a highlight of any day on the Great Ocean Road. I try to get here during sunset as you can get some magnificent colours if your lucky


The Hereford Beefstouw - 22 Duckboard Place - Melbourne - Victoria - Australia

I'd like to say this was my discovery but it wasn't. I came to it by way of a conversation I had with a colleague and friend of mine, Gary Dowthwaite, when discussing the best steaks we've had in Melbourne. My vote was for San Telmo, 14 Meyers Place, and his went for the Hereford. After trying both I'm happy to say that they're both damn fine. In this photo Aiden is being held by his grandfather Jurijs - both waiting on their meals I assume.

This is either the #86 or #96 back down Collins Street

Being from Sydney, and being born in the year that I was, it was only until very recently that (we) have decided to rekindle our love of all things tram related. Melbourne has it in spades when it comes to ease of mobility and transport across the CBD. How cool is it that within the CBD all tram travel is free! That's a smart city for you right there!

The Hereford Beefstouw - 22 Duckboard Place - Melbourne - Victoria - Australia

The photo says all that needs to be said

Smith Street - Collingwood - Melbourne - Victoria - Australia

From memory this was in Collingwood. I say from memory because I wasn't actually with them.

The Twelve Apostles - Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

I love this photo of us :)

Outside of Port Campbell - Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

I gave my brother-in-law a chance to drive the Mustang. Usually in situations like this I'm fairly apprehensive but on this occasion I felt absolutely relaxed. Even though it was his first time driving on the left side of the road and utilising a right hand drive he was perfect. First timers tend to float across the lane towards the outside when they're switching over, but after only a few minutes Davis had it covered. Pretty impressive I have to say.

Melbourne sign - Melbourne Tullamarine airport - Victoria - Australia

Reunited after 6 months, looks like Jurijs is going to be giving his daughter a lift instead of the other way around

Duckboard Place - Melbourne - Victoria - Australia

One of my favourite laneways in Melbourne, down here you'll find the Hereford Beefstouw, Pastutso & Tonka amongst others

The Hereford Beefstouw - 22 Duckboard Place - Melbourne - Victoria - Australia

This is the Tomahawk steak offered up by the Hereford. A whole 1kg off the bone and more than a helping for the three men that tried to take it down

Sydney - Australia

After all those years, this view had always been the epitome of coming home. It's certainly an odd feeling to look down on this harbour and snap photos like a typical tourist

Darling Harbour - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Darling Harbour - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Chinatown- Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Sydney Opera House- Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Aiden, Inga and Zaiga at the Sydney Opera House

Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Circular Quay - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Waiting for the crew to disembark from their afternoon jaunt to Manly. During these days I had been working from the apartment that we'd rented out on Sussex Street. Once again, these days, whilst enjoyable were also filled with anxiety for most of us. Wondering how these cancelled flights would impact their return home, what the quarantine restrictions would mean, what connecting flights now needed to be taken and through which city. Things were changing so quickly and there was so little information available that it made decision making more intuitive than anything else.

Circular Quay - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Opera Bar - Circular Quay - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Circular Quay - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Circular Quay - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Trams in the heart of Sydney! It took a bit of time for Sydney to realise what it had lost but finally they've done something about it. Of course, they'll never get to Melbourne levels where trams are part of their DNA. Small steps I gues.

Sydney Harbour - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Sydney airport - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

On our way back to Melbourne

Sydney airport - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Sydney airport - Sydney - New South Wales - Australia

Wow, this said it all. A Friday afternoon flight down to Melbourne would commonly be full to the brim. This shot was an insight into what the next 6 months was going to be like.

Skybus - on the way to Southern Cross Station - Melbourne - Victoria - Australia







Saturday, March 7, 2020

Bali (Ubud) - Indonesia - Scar

Bali (Ubud) - Indonesia
07 March – 09 March 2020

Ubud is the perfect foil to the nightlife carnage of Kuta. It’s your serene tonic to the tourist shaken core of the ‘downtown’ area of Bali’s popular visitor hub. Imbued with finest of Balinese qualities, its tropical rainforest & terraced rice paddy fields are dotted with Hindu temples and shrines, setting this location as perhaps the most idyllic, authentic and iconic of locations in Bali. There’s a feel about Ubud, a calmness and an ambience whose atmospheric presence has tones of mystery and tranquillity. It’s uplifting, and that surge of elation has its unique sense of being just in this particular spot. Bali has other places of course, wilder, more chaotic, more hedonistic, but none as enchanting. 

I need to write this entry a little backwards as one of our highlights of the location was the fabulous stay at Villa Naga Putih. Without question, the most phenomenal of property I’ve had the pleasure of staying at. With it tropical jungle setting, a few kms away from the centre of Ubud, its sprawling 2700m2 of space, fashioned across three levels, was almost too much room for the six of us. In fact, it was too much room, so much so that we had to consciously set ourselves the task of visiting other rooms on the property just to fully appreciation and experience the whole. It was epic, there’s no other way of describing it. It’s places like these that quite often prompt you to allow yourself, momentarily, to indulge in atypical notions of partaking in creatively driven lifestyles that could somehow manage to sustain your existence in a place such as this. Like somehow the setting itself could conjure up an untapped quality that could perpetuate your dream state lifestyle. Of course you know it’s absurd, but, you also know that there are people out there that have managed to do it. It’s nice to dream…and you only need to live in just one of the many dreams you have to consider yourself as a success as an ‘alternative’.

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia


Our exit out of Seminyak earlier that day took brought us to Tegenungan Waterfall as the first order of business. A nice enough location just outside of the town of Tegenungan Kemenuh village in Gianyar, some 10kms south of Ubud. It was a suggestion provided by Komang, and a reasonable one at that, but in all honesty, its more than difficult for both Inga and I to fully appreciate the beauty of a waterfall these days. Without question our frame of reference, against which we compare any waterfall we see, is the mighty Iguazu Falls on the Argentine/Brazilian border. Everything simply pales by comparison. A pleasant enough stop of course but not nearly postcard worthy. Almost not photo worthy, but not doing some would seem unnecessarily supercilious and slightly conceited on our part.

Tegenungan Waterfall - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Tegenungan Waterfall - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Tegenungan Waterfall - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

We had lunch at the Dirty Duck Diner in Ubud. Not nearly as seedy and unsanitary as it sounds, in fact, quite the introduction or re-introduction to Ubud. Sitting in open air dining pavilions amongst luscious greenery that typifies the surrounds here, ordering anything but the speciality, the Balinese crispy fried duck, would be an absolute travesty. And whilst the food was fairly good, for me the highlight was simply the restaurant surrounds. Beautiful, captivating, divine. This was what I wanted from Ubud. Calmness in a tranquil sea of green.

Dirty Duck Diner - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Dirty Duck Diner - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Dirty Duck Diner - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Dirty Duck Diner - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Dirty Duck Diner - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Dirty Duck Diner - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Later that afternoon we headed of to one of the now many places that offer ‘sky high’ swings that allow you to soar high above the exquisite natural jungle & terraced rice fields settings. Set on platforms positions on terraced hillsides you get the opportunity to sail out into the open air, allowing you to take in majestic views and set yourself up for some more than instagrammable photos. The swings themselves have a harness which you’re required to strap yourself into but that doesn’t really diminish from the thrill of flying out over the valley on a wooden plank tied to rope! It’s pretty damn cool! 

Tegalalang rice terrace swing - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Tegalalang rice terrace swing - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Tegalalang rice terrace swing - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Tegalalang rice terrace swing - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Tegalalang rice terrace swing - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Tegalalang rice terrace swing - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Tegalalang rice terrace swing - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Tegalalang rice terrace swing - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

The next day, our penultimate day on this short excursion, involved a massage for the girls, a bit of a walk around Ubud centre and then a wonderful late afternoon, early evening dinner at the Bridges Bali restaurant. My brother-in-law managed to chose this place from a myriad of online recommendations, and I have to say, he hit the nail on the head. For atmosphere, scenery and service, this place was impeccable. It’s one of those places that I’d be happy to stay at for hours, getting intoxicated from the tropical perfumes, ambience and my choice of concoctions from the bar. Simply exquisite and far too short of an experience for my liking. Alas, when you have a place like Villa Naga Putih to return to for the evening then complaining is simply not allowed. 

Bridges Restaurant - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Bridges Restaurant - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Naga Putih - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Bridges Restaurant - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Bridges Restaurant - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Bridges Restaurant - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Bridges Restaurant - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

Bridges Restaurant - Ubud - Bali - Indonesia

That my friends was it however. 

The next day Inga and I left mid-morning and jumped a flight back to Melbourne. Several weeks later COVID-19 had forced itself into our psyche, had changed our way of live and blunted nearly everything else that we took for granted. For the majority of us 2020 is going to have a gigantic asterisk next to its name. We were forced to adapt and morph into introverted hobbits – peering out of our apartment windows, watching the days take place in front of our eyes without ever truly being part of it. Life will get back to normal, or, some form of normal relatively soon, but the scar that COVID-19 will leave is something that will be visible for a few years to come.