Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) - Cu Chi Tunnels, the mother of all FREAKOUTS

Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) - (Vietnam)

The last few days Jase and I have based ourselves in Saigon. If we thought that Hanoi was chaotic and hectic, well, about double or even triple the level of activity and you just might get an understanding of what it takes to be able to make it on the streets of this town. I've seen small 'mopeds / vespa's' stacked with 4-5 passengers comfortably cruising at 60-70kph, kids looking blissfully into space whilst their parents dodge the other 100 vehicles in their immediate vicinity. If I said it was insane or nuts then I literally wouldn't be doing it justice. As I write this little piece within the confines of a smallish internet hovel on the backstreets of sector 1 there's a 10 yr old kid playing some type of video game next to me and having a smoke all in the same instant. That's Saigon though, it's not done by half measures here. I've got to say that unfortunately it doesn't have nearly the same charm as Hanoi and the people here have a lot more attitude. Ahhh, I can take it or leave it .....but the rest ò Vietnam, I'll be more than happy to take.

View from our $15 a night hotel room - District 1 - Dong Khoi Area - Saigon - Vietnam

Saigon style

Saigon streetscape

Cu Chi Tunnels

Did a day trip out to the Cu Chi tunnels today, a vast network of underground connected tunnels located to the north west of Saigon. Apparently there are over 250kms of tunnels in this network which took something like 20yrs to build - the reasons of which relate directly to the French and American military action in that area over the time. Unfortunately I don't have the background to go into further detail other than to say that the creation was a marvel of ingenuity and that the bloody tunnels are so freakin small than my head literally started to spin whilst I was in there.

Your escape route

'Welcome home' - your tunnel to the depths of despair

[Cu Chi tunnel view]

The link that I've attached pretty much is the section that I freaked out in. This section has been widened for tourists such as myself to get through but stuff that for a joke. To give you can example of how we were moving through, in the shot I would have been squatting with my head tucked down and both shoulders touching the tunnel walls. Whilst that in itself wasn't a concern, the queue of people in front and behind me were, so the thought of not being able to move forward or back at my own speed and not knowing exactly where the exit was just sent me into one wild claustrophobic attack, something that I had never experienced before. As for a 'first time experience'  I've got to say that it totally SUCKED !! Needless to say, I do feel like a world class soft c*** for not being able to complete my mission so maybe I'll have to come up with ways of  getting around that.

Anyway, NYE tomorrow night, we'll be hitting the streets of Saigon for the crossover. Next day we'll ọn a bus and into Cambodia, ex Khmer Rouge heartland. Am really looking forward to seeing what it has to offer.

Hanoi - Honda OM's Hanoi style

Hanoi (Vietnam)

Last Blog Correction

I've got to say, my initial perception of the traffic situation in Hanoi was perhaps slightly unwarranted. Yes its hectic, it's kind of dramatic at first glance but there is also a certain fluidity and assurance in their riding that allows traffic flow kind of effortlessly and in the end makes a certain amount of sense. In the same manner, just like a 'newbie' crossing the road, the first time you don't know how the hell you're going to make your first step out onto the combative streets but as the gonads grow and the time you spend standing in the middle of traffic grows less stressful, the way of the people finds an enclave of meaning in that Western brain of mine.

Moto action in Hanoi

No really, there's a train line outside of my front door - Hanoi - Vietnam

Taking on the wily veteran of the courts!

Raise a fist for the only point you'll win on this day Mr. Elisher!

Overall the two days we spent in Hanoi was about a week too short., and to think, our original itinerary had us beating a path out of here within 24 hours. First of all the people are charming, friendly and have the most engaging smiles you've seen. Architecturally there is a distinct French influence but there is an obvious intersection with a Chinese/SE Asian style which just makes it that much more appealing. The food is brilliant, the bargains that you get sometimes makes you feel like you're actually ripping them off  and each turn down a small street is just another invitation to run into something new and exciting. I truly didn't think that I'd enjoy Hanoi, and now Vietnam as much as I have. If I did have a policy of visiting places twice then I'd be back here in a hurry, and you never know, I might just break that rule on careful reflection (...stuff the reflection, consider the rule broken)

Near our hotel - Hanoi - Vietnam

Hanoi style

After our two days in Hanoi we jumped a Vietnam Airlines flight to the up and coming resort town of Da Nang. On first impressions were that it wasn't a particularly dynamic place and not somewhere that you'd make a point of travelling to but hanging out on China Beach for $29USD with a great mate, having meals virtually at the water's edge for $35USD (1kg prawns, vegetables, rice and a bucket of beers), having a bike taxi available literally at any time of day or night for just $2USD and in that sense available to take you virtually anywhere you need to go means that this is an opportunity you just can't pass up, and of course we didn't.

Hoi An

Jase and I jumped on the back of a couple of Honda's this morning and made our way out of Da Nang to the small, quaint town of Hoi An. This place just has 'too cute' written all over it, from the picture perfect 'small village' Chinese type side streets, to the cafes/bars/restaurants on the river, to even the 'hard sells' put on you by vendors of every kind, it's a beautiful and intriguing place.

Japanese bridge - Hoi An - Vietnam

On the river - Hoi An - Vietnam

Hoi An streetscape

 What Hoi An is known for however is for its tailor made clothing, i.e., shirts, trousers, suits etc. I managed to get myself four tailored shirts, two trousers and a suit for $187 USD. Not bad value considering how good the quality was, how great the fit was, and the fact that the turn around time on all those items was 'just' 5 hours!

Anyway that's all I've got for now, tomorrow afternoon we're flying down to Saigon to count in the New Year and then we'll be moving into Cambodia the day after that. I'd like to say that I can't wait but being in the moment is just too much fun.

Hanoi - Hanoi Rocks...phoc yew long time

Hanoi (Vietnam)

Flying around always tends to beat the living daylights out of you, not matter how long or how short the trip is, BUT, I've now found something new, something that will alleviate the pain and refocus the need for sleep elsewhere...it's called sheer boredom. Ladies and Gentlemen, let me welcome you to the capital of Brunei, Bander Seri Begawan! Oh yeah ! The rocking, beating heart of this sultanate is a piddly 24hr cafe that may, or may not, serve fish in a 'fish shaped' dish. There is sense of calm on the streets however andnonchalant, peaceful ways of its people only suggests to me that that their inner fortitude and need for well being is kept in check but some external influence, what could that be I wonder? Perhaps a ferocious and non too benevolent dictator that dishes out his on hardcore form of justice. This is but a perception and has not yet been confirmed on our part but I'm putting my money on this being the case as I haven't had a citizen from Brunei take me for a quiet chat in a bar as yet (tough finding a bar in a Muslim country, believe me!).

Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque - Bandar Seri Begawan - State of Brunei Darussalam

'Get me outta here' - The very sedate passengers lounge - Brunei International Airport - Brunei

Jase @ 'The Long Bar' - Raffles Hotel - Singapore

Singapore Sling time - Long Bar - Raffles Hotel - Singapore

Bandar boredom aside, the real aim and starting point of our excursion was always going to be Hanoi, via an $85 drinks stop in the Long Bar of the Raffles hotel in Singapore. Is there any better way of spending a few hours in Singapore then taking up residence at the Raffles with a few speciality Singapore Slings to keep you company? Did you also know, by way of urban myth, that the last Asiatic tiger was shot under one of the tables in the Raffles long bar? Legendary, of course, but still an interesting story.

Everyone loves a winner, even a champion vindaloo eater - Singapore Airport - Singapore

What to say about Hanoi then ....what to say ? I'm sure the first thing that grabs most people and the aspect that initially sent my head spinning is the traffic. It's relentless, it's chaotic, heavy and makes you wonder how the hell people get to any place without coming to grief more times than you actually witness (which has been zero thus far). The city rings with the sound of car and bike horns almost 24/7 and you've got to think that the meaning associated with its use is lost on everyone because a 'get the f*** out of my way' horn blast only lasts for the duration of the next person in front or behind you. Multiply that effect by every second person on the numerous streets and alleyways and you'll start to get an idea of the street scape activity.

'Static motion' - Hanoi - Vietnam

'Contemplation' - Hoan Kiem Lake - Hanoi

Aside from that, Hanoi Rocks - it's a great place to get lost in. Small back streets, vendors street side cooking up all sorts Asian wonders, thin / tall terraced buildings, a kind of shabby but quaint feel that suckers you in from kick-off. For right now I'm going to leave my impressions for some time later in the game  because I've got to go and find a little resolve on the local brew for $1.10 a pop (ouch :)