Stanley-Strahan-Hobart-Davenport (Tasmania - Australia)
20 December - 27 December 2015
20 December - 27 December 2015
Tasmania doesn't feel like its part of Australia. When you hit the roads you see all those naive creatures that made the fatal assumption that the piece of bitumen with the two white lines running across it was simply a bridge between their side of the forest and the other side- roadkill by way of innocence, what can you do? Also, there's the issue with closing times here. I mean where in a Australia do you walk into a major supermarket only to read that the standard closing times are when you Grandmother usually heads to bed after their Bex? The landscape is different, the way of life is different, it Australia's own freakin' piece of Narnia.
Of course for those that don't know, you can't drive directly to Tasmania, there's no land bridge with an over arching banner containing welcoming platitudes. So the decision to come here is your own, it's considered. You can't reference a wrong turn in Central Victoria that accidentally had you driving through to Launceston. Visiting is off your own bat, acceptance of your choice is part of the burden of telling people that you made the crossing to Van Diemen's land
Vandemonians have always been a little unique. So much so that prior to a week lo school trip to the island back in 1986 (I was 10 at the time), the kids on the trip, in expectation of who knows what exactly, were asking some of the dumbest questions, 'what money do they use?', 'what language do they speak?', 'Do you need a passport?', 'Can I make a phone call from there?'. What's interesting, and extremely disconcerting about those idiotic questions is that I'm 100% sure they were the expressed thoughts of parents being delivered through 10 year old mouth pieces - Basically what they were saying was, OK, we don't really believe that Tasmania is really part of Australia, can you explain WHAT'S UP?'. Again, when you isolate yourself deliberately from the herd then this is the type of non-sense you can expect, Tasmania, you did it to yourself really.
For all the non-sense regarding this corner of the world there are a few things that Tasmania is and thoroughly deserves credit for. It's undeniably beautiful, has pristine wilderness, beautiful coastline, a deeply forested interior and southern frontier, it's porn for nature lovers. So much so that even as a 10 year old I had a great appreciation for what was being offered. In fact the route that I had planned to take Inga on recreated most of that 1986 journey.
Getting there from the mainland can take place either quickly and efficiently, a simple one hour flight from Melbourne, or, you can be a little more leisurely about things and hop on board the Spirit of Tasmania that can float you over Bass Strait in the greater part of a day. As we had a car in tow we chose the sailing option and were definitely not disappointed. It's like going on a day cruise for those without the time and money to do a real one.
Back in 1986 I recalled our second stop on our week long excursion to the Apple Isle being the small town of Stanley and more specifically, walking atop a steep bluff known to all as the Nut.
For some reason the Nut had left a great impression on me at the time, for its rugged, windswept coastline, the raw scenery and of course the odd looking volcanic plug that acts as an impressive viewing point for the local coastline. My memory of climbing the Nut on the first occasion was that it was quite steep, and in some ways, for ten year old boys, dangerous in that there were only dirt tracks criss crossing the area, some of them leading to major cliff drop offs. Like most places however, 30 years had made a hell of a difference and now there's a chairlift to take you from the car park to the peak, it has obvious sign-posts and well crafted walking tracks, and more importantly, fencing to stop unintended death.
In Stanley we stayed in a hotel called the VDL Stanley , a beautiful, old bluestone building from 1843 that overlooked Stanley Bay. It had a beautiful modern interior and was absolutely perfect for our two night stay, more than recommended to anyone in that part of the world.
Heading south the next day we were aiming for the South-Western corner of the state, specifically the town of Strahan but managed first to make our way to Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park.
Part of the Tasmanian heritage listed wilderness area, it is a stunningly picturesque area known for its fantastic multi-day walks, unique flora and fauna, and the iconic Cradle Mountain itself, which is easily recognisable and provides a captivating backdrop to the immediate area.
Having only allowed ourselves a few hours in the National Park before heading down to Strahan we obviously didn't allow ourselves the necessary time to absorb the area for its inherent beauty. With better planning I probably would have put an additional night on the agenda and assigned ourselves a bit more time to do some exploring - and also gain a lot more knowledge on the local wildlife. As we came to the end of the walk we had been doing Inga managed to get about as close as you would want to get to a Brown snake. Seeing the event I literally freaked and stopped in my tracks. Inga was totally oblivious to the situation and casually dismissed the run in as an 'errant little snake that should have known better', that was until such time that I advised her of how critical a situation she would have been in had she have freaked the little guy out.
VDL Hotel - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
VDL Hotel - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
VDL Hotel - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
VDL Hotel - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
Back in 1986 I recalled our second stop on our week long excursion to the Apple Isle being the small town of Stanley and more specifically, walking atop a steep bluff known to all as the Nut.
For some reason the Nut had left a great impression on me at the time, for its rugged, windswept coastline, the raw scenery and of course the odd looking volcanic plug that acts as an impressive viewing point for the local coastline. My memory of climbing the Nut on the first occasion was that it was quite steep, and in some ways, for ten year old boys, dangerous in that there were only dirt tracks criss crossing the area, some of them leading to major cliff drop offs. Like most places however, 30 years had made a hell of a difference and now there's a chairlift to take you from the car park to the peak, it has obvious sign-posts and well crafted walking tracks, and more importantly, fencing to stop unintended death.
The Nut - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
The Nut - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
The Nut - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
The Nut - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
The Nut - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
Stanley Bay - The Nut - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
Stanley Bay - The Nut - Stanley - Tasmania - Australia
In Stanley we stayed in a hotel called the VDL Stanley , a beautiful, old bluestone building from 1843 that overlooked Stanley Bay. It had a beautiful modern interior and was absolutely perfect for our two night stay, more than recommended to anyone in that part of the world.
Heading south the next day we were aiming for the South-Western corner of the state, specifically the town of Strahan but managed first to make our way to Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park.
Part of the Tasmanian heritage listed wilderness area, it is a stunningly picturesque area known for its fantastic multi-day walks, unique flora and fauna, and the iconic Cradle Mountain itself, which is easily recognisable and provides a captivating backdrop to the immediate area.
Cradle Mountain - Tasmania - Australia
Cradle Mountain - Tasmania - Australia
Cradle Mountain - Tasmania - Australia
Cradle Mountain - Tasmania - Australia
Cradle Mountain - Tasmania - Australia
Having only allowed ourselves a few hours in the National Park before heading down to Strahan we obviously didn't allow ourselves the necessary time to absorb the area for its inherent beauty. With better planning I probably would have put an additional night on the agenda and assigned ourselves a bit more time to do some exploring - and also gain a lot more knowledge on the local wildlife. As we came to the end of the walk we had been doing Inga managed to get about as close as you would want to get to a Brown snake. Seeing the event I literally freaked and stopped in my tracks. Inga was totally oblivious to the situation and casually dismissed the run in as an 'errant little snake that should have known better', that was until such time that I advised her of how critical a situation she would have been in had she have freaked the little guy out.
Making it down to Strahan we'd set ourselves up on a cruise of the Gordon River the next day, one of those all you can drink experiences, whilst enjoying the pristine environment of the river. Again, from my 1986 experience I recalled this as being a real highlight, and then, as now, it didn't disappoint at all.
Cruising out over the wild Macquarie Harbour, you enter the rich bio-diverse area of the Gordon River. Luscious forest abounds and the word given by the tourist operators is that 'every breath you take here extends your life by 6 seconds'. Considering that the scenery is supposedly 'breath taking', I wonder if the locals are subtly playing with two opposing concepts? What the wilderness takes away, it can also give back?
No doubt, Macquarie Harbour and the Gordon River are places of grand beauty. Stunning wilderness that deserves to remain its current pristine condition. Framed by wild landscapes, rugged mountains and a sometimes brutal coastline, its both the isolation of the town and the unspoiled nature that should draw more people to the area in the future. As I stated earlier, this place made a real impression on me some 30 years earlier, and I can say now that my thoughts have not changed at all.
Heading east the next day we crossed the mountains surrounding Queenstown and made our way to Hobart, a place that for some reason is now becoming THE booming property in Australia. Now I'm not sure whether that's due to people anticipating such a violent climate shift that they belief that Hobart will be the the Gold Coast of this century, or, and quite probably more realistic, that property down here had been much more affordable than any other Australia city.
Hobart itself doesn't have the major draw cards of other Australian cities, but with that said, its nowhere near at bat shit boring as Adelaide. Sorry sandgropers but the city you live in is an absolute hole of boredom. When the moniker you adopt is the City of Churches and the idea of taking a sedative is actually more of a stimulant that a trigger to induce sleep, then you know your city is on the edge of the coma abyss. Still, for Hobart itself, there is MONA, the Derwent, Salamanca place and maybe a restaurant or two worth sticking your head in. Mt Wellington provides an intriguing enough backdrop and the volume of road kill within 5 kms of the centre of Hobart shows that the wildlife population is still naive enough to believe that urban sprawl in this area is a non issue, kind of like us humans believing that global warming isn't happening or that Australia will have a Prime Minister can fulfil a full term without getting rolled.
Where we did get really lucky was with our accommodation in Huonville. We stayed at a great placed called House on the Hill B&B. Owned by a very friendly and accommodating couple, we stayed there for two nights, with one of them being Christmas Eve and the other Christmas Day. It was such a fantastic experience. We had a wonderful time staying there. Beautiful views over the Huon Valley and a warm, friendly experience for Christmas Dinner, it was much more than we could have anticipated out of the stay. This was honestly one of the highlights of the week - sometimes you find gems in times and places where you least expect it!
On Christmas Day itself we spent our time on the gorgeous Bruny Island. This is a 362km square island off the south-east coast of Tasmania (south of Hobart). Separated from the mainland by the D'Entrecasteaux Channel, and bounded on the Eastern board by the Tasman Sea, the region has some extraordinary vistas and natural environments.
One of the highlights for me was a visit to the Neck. A narrow strip of land (or an isthumus) that splits Bruny island north and Bruny island south, the views are absolutely spectacular and the schism between the waters of the channel and those of the Tasman sea are only separated by what looks like a precarious slither of land. I'd seen this particular view in photos previously but never really knew where in Australia it was. An impressive sight without question and a great welcome mat to the south part of Bruny island.
We made our way down to Adventure Bay and assigned ourselves the task of climbing up to the peak on the Fluted Cape. Again, another impressive sight with the views back across to the isthumus and the obvious schism between north and south Bruny islands. I think we got a bit lucky on this day as the weather provided us with picture perfect opportunities for photos and just admiring the view.
Later in the afternoon we headed down to the southern tip of the island and took in the opportunity of investigating the lighthouse and copping a mouthful of the southern squalls ripping their way up off the Southern Ocean. For those that are willing to travel this far south then I would recommend a visit to this part of the world without hesitation. Just make your way here in Summer as I'd imagine that a Winter stop could be more than miserable.
Our final full day in Tasmania involved a leisurely drive up the eastern coastline and then a few stops at the wineries to the east of Launceston. Stopping in at Pipers Brook, Bay of Fires and Dalyrymple, I got schooled on the art of Sauvignon Blanc and came to the understanding that Tasmania had every right to believe it was well and truly in the game when competing with New Zealand's Marlbourough region to claim the southern hemisphere's best Sauvignon Blanc. I would say up until that point that I'd never really been a major fan but this stop turned that outlook on its head. Some of the ones that I encountered there were truly impressive, and the region itself would easily challenge the Yarra Valley. In all honesty, outside of Margaret River, probably the best wine region I've been to in Australia - although I haven't stopped in at any SA wineries as yet, so it remains a hero for now.
Macquarie Harbour - Strahan - Tasmania - Australia
Gordon River - Strahan - Tasmania - Australia
Gordon River - Strahan - Tasmania - Australia
Cruising out over the wild Macquarie Harbour, you enter the rich bio-diverse area of the Gordon River. Luscious forest abounds and the word given by the tourist operators is that 'every breath you take here extends your life by 6 seconds'. Considering that the scenery is supposedly 'breath taking', I wonder if the locals are subtly playing with two opposing concepts? What the wilderness takes away, it can also give back?
No doubt, Macquarie Harbour and the Gordon River are places of grand beauty. Stunning wilderness that deserves to remain its current pristine condition. Framed by wild landscapes, rugged mountains and a sometimes brutal coastline, its both the isolation of the town and the unspoiled nature that should draw more people to the area in the future. As I stated earlier, this place made a real impression on me some 30 years earlier, and I can say now that my thoughts have not changed at all.
Heading east the next day we crossed the mountains surrounding Queenstown and made our way to Hobart, a place that for some reason is now becoming THE booming property in Australia. Now I'm not sure whether that's due to people anticipating such a violent climate shift that they belief that Hobart will be the the Gold Coast of this century, or, and quite probably more realistic, that property down here had been much more affordable than any other Australia city.
On the way to Hobart
Hobart - Tasmania - Australia
Museum of Old & New Art (MONA) - Hobart - Tasmania
Museum of Old & New Art (MONA) - Hobart - Tasmania
Hobart itself doesn't have the major draw cards of other Australian cities, but with that said, its nowhere near at bat shit boring as Adelaide. Sorry sandgropers but the city you live in is an absolute hole of boredom. When the moniker you adopt is the City of Churches and the idea of taking a sedative is actually more of a stimulant that a trigger to induce sleep, then you know your city is on the edge of the coma abyss. Still, for Hobart itself, there is MONA, the Derwent, Salamanca place and maybe a restaurant or two worth sticking your head in. Mt Wellington provides an intriguing enough backdrop and the volume of road kill within 5 kms of the centre of Hobart shows that the wildlife population is still naive enough to believe that urban sprawl in this area is a non issue, kind of like us humans believing that global warming isn't happening or that Australia will have a Prime Minister can fulfil a full term without getting rolled.
Where we did get really lucky was with our accommodation in Huonville. We stayed at a great placed called House on the Hill B&B. Owned by a very friendly and accommodating couple, we stayed there for two nights, with one of them being Christmas Eve and the other Christmas Day. It was such a fantastic experience. We had a wonderful time staying there. Beautiful views over the Huon Valley and a warm, friendly experience for Christmas Dinner, it was much more than we could have anticipated out of the stay. This was honestly one of the highlights of the week - sometimes you find gems in times and places where you least expect it!
On Christmas Day itself we spent our time on the gorgeous Bruny Island. This is a 362km square island off the south-east coast of Tasmania (south of Hobart). Separated from the mainland by the D'Entrecasteaux Channel, and bounded on the Eastern board by the Tasman Sea, the region has some extraordinary vistas and natural environments.
One of the highlights for me was a visit to the Neck. A narrow strip of land (or an isthumus) that splits Bruny island north and Bruny island south, the views are absolutely spectacular and the schism between the waters of the channel and those of the Tasman sea are only separated by what looks like a precarious slither of land. I'd seen this particular view in photos previously but never really knew where in Australia it was. An impressive sight without question and a great welcome mat to the south part of Bruny island.
Bruny island - Tasmania - Australia
Bruny island - Tasmania - Australia
Bruny island - Tasmania - Australia
We made our way down to Adventure Bay and assigned ourselves the task of climbing up to the peak on the Fluted Cape. Again, another impressive sight with the views back across to the isthumus and the obvious schism between north and south Bruny islands. I think we got a bit lucky on this day as the weather provided us with picture perfect opportunities for photos and just admiring the view.
Later in the afternoon we headed down to the southern tip of the island and took in the opportunity of investigating the lighthouse and copping a mouthful of the southern squalls ripping their way up off the Southern Ocean. For those that are willing to travel this far south then I would recommend a visit to this part of the world without hesitation. Just make your way here in Summer as I'd imagine that a Winter stop could be more than miserable.
Bruny island - Tasmania - Australia
Bruny island - Tasmania - Australia
Bruny island - Tasmania - Australia
Bruny island - Tasmania - Austra
Bruny island - Tasmania - Australia
Our final full day in Tasmania involved a leisurely drive up the eastern coastline and then a few stops at the wineries to the east of Launceston. Stopping in at Pipers Brook, Bay of Fires and Dalyrymple, I got schooled on the art of Sauvignon Blanc and came to the understanding that Tasmania had every right to believe it was well and truly in the game when competing with New Zealand's Marlbourough region to claim the southern hemisphere's best Sauvignon Blanc. I would say up until that point that I'd never really been a major fan but this stop turned that outlook on its head. Some of the ones that I encountered there were truly impressive, and the region itself would easily challenge the Yarra Valley. In all honesty, outside of Margaret River, probably the best wine region I've been to in Australia - although I haven't stopped in at any SA wineries as yet, so it remains a hero for now.
Sadly our week in Tasmania disappeared very quickly and that only goes to show that what it had on offer both surprised and really held our interest for the whole time we were there. The Apple Isle is a great place to visit. It's not really Australia but also, it's not really not. For anyone wanting a break from the mainland then get on down there, they do speak the same language, or near enough!
