Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) - Cu Chi Tunnels, the mother of all FREAKOUTS

Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) - (Vietnam)

The last few days Jase and I have based ourselves in Saigon. If we thought that Hanoi was chaotic and hectic, well, about double or even triple the level of activity and you just might get an understanding of what it takes to be able to make it on the streets of this town. I've seen small 'mopeds / vespa's' stacked with 4-5 passengers comfortably cruising at 60-70kph, kids looking blissfully into space whilst their parents dodge the other 100 vehicles in their immediate vicinity. If I said it was insane or nuts then I literally wouldn't be doing it justice. As I write this little piece within the confines of a smallish internet hovel on the backstreets of sector 1 there's a 10 yr old kid playing some type of video game next to me and having a smoke all in the same instant. That's Saigon though, it's not done by half measures here. I've got to say that unfortunately it doesn't have nearly the same charm as Hanoi and the people here have a lot more attitude. Ahhh, I can take it or leave it .....but the rest ò Vietnam, I'll be more than happy to take.

View from our $15 a night hotel room - District 1 - Dong Khoi Area - Saigon - Vietnam

Saigon style

Saigon streetscape

Cu Chi Tunnels

Did a day trip out to the Cu Chi tunnels today, a vast network of underground connected tunnels located to the north west of Saigon. Apparently there are over 250kms of tunnels in this network which took something like 20yrs to build - the reasons of which relate directly to the French and American military action in that area over the time. Unfortunately I don't have the background to go into further detail other than to say that the creation was a marvel of ingenuity and that the bloody tunnels are so freakin small than my head literally started to spin whilst I was in there.

Your escape route

'Welcome home' - your tunnel to the depths of despair

[Cu Chi tunnel view]

The link that I've attached pretty much is the section that I freaked out in. This section has been widened for tourists such as myself to get through but stuff that for a joke. To give you can example of how we were moving through, in the shot I would have been squatting with my head tucked down and both shoulders touching the tunnel walls. Whilst that in itself wasn't a concern, the queue of people in front and behind me were, so the thought of not being able to move forward or back at my own speed and not knowing exactly where the exit was just sent me into one wild claustrophobic attack, something that I had never experienced before. As for a 'first time experience'  I've got to say that it totally SUCKED !! Needless to say, I do feel like a world class soft c*** for not being able to complete my mission so maybe I'll have to come up with ways of  getting around that.

Anyway, NYE tomorrow night, we'll be hitting the streets of Saigon for the crossover. Next day we'll ọn a bus and into Cambodia, ex Khmer Rouge heartland. Am really looking forward to seeing what it has to offer.

Hanoi - Honda OM's Hanoi style

Hanoi (Vietnam)

Last Blog Correction

I've got to say, my initial perception of the traffic situation in Hanoi was perhaps slightly unwarranted. Yes its hectic, it's kind of dramatic at first glance but there is also a certain fluidity and assurance in their riding that allows traffic flow kind of effortlessly and in the end makes a certain amount of sense. In the same manner, just like a 'newbie' crossing the road, the first time you don't know how the hell you're going to make your first step out onto the combative streets but as the gonads grow and the time you spend standing in the middle of traffic grows less stressful, the way of the people finds an enclave of meaning in that Western brain of mine.

Moto action in Hanoi

No really, there's a train line outside of my front door - Hanoi - Vietnam

Taking on the wily veteran of the courts!

Raise a fist for the only point you'll win on this day Mr. Elisher!

Overall the two days we spent in Hanoi was about a week too short., and to think, our original itinerary had us beating a path out of here within 24 hours. First of all the people are charming, friendly and have the most engaging smiles you've seen. Architecturally there is a distinct French influence but there is an obvious intersection with a Chinese/SE Asian style which just makes it that much more appealing. The food is brilliant, the bargains that you get sometimes makes you feel like you're actually ripping them off  and each turn down a small street is just another invitation to run into something new and exciting. I truly didn't think that I'd enjoy Hanoi, and now Vietnam as much as I have. If I did have a policy of visiting places twice then I'd be back here in a hurry, and you never know, I might just break that rule on careful reflection (...stuff the reflection, consider the rule broken)

Near our hotel - Hanoi - Vietnam

Hanoi style

After our two days in Hanoi we jumped a Vietnam Airlines flight to the up and coming resort town of Da Nang. On first impressions were that it wasn't a particularly dynamic place and not somewhere that you'd make a point of travelling to but hanging out on China Beach for $29USD with a great mate, having meals virtually at the water's edge for $35USD (1kg prawns, vegetables, rice and a bucket of beers), having a bike taxi available literally at any time of day or night for just $2USD and in that sense available to take you virtually anywhere you need to go means that this is an opportunity you just can't pass up, and of course we didn't.

Hoi An

Jase and I jumped on the back of a couple of Honda's this morning and made our way out of Da Nang to the small, quaint town of Hoi An. This place just has 'too cute' written all over it, from the picture perfect 'small village' Chinese type side streets, to the cafes/bars/restaurants on the river, to even the 'hard sells' put on you by vendors of every kind, it's a beautiful and intriguing place.

Japanese bridge - Hoi An - Vietnam

On the river - Hoi An - Vietnam

Hoi An streetscape

 What Hoi An is known for however is for its tailor made clothing, i.e., shirts, trousers, suits etc. I managed to get myself four tailored shirts, two trousers and a suit for $187 USD. Not bad value considering how good the quality was, how great the fit was, and the fact that the turn around time on all those items was 'just' 5 hours!

Anyway that's all I've got for now, tomorrow afternoon we're flying down to Saigon to count in the New Year and then we'll be moving into Cambodia the day after that. I'd like to say that I can't wait but being in the moment is just too much fun.

Hanoi - Hanoi Rocks...phoc yew long time

Hanoi (Vietnam)

Flying around always tends to beat the living daylights out of you, not matter how long or how short the trip is, BUT, I've now found something new, something that will alleviate the pain and refocus the need for sleep elsewhere...it's called sheer boredom. Ladies and Gentlemen, let me welcome you to the capital of Brunei, Bander Seri Begawan! Oh yeah ! The rocking, beating heart of this sultanate is a piddly 24hr cafe that may, or may not, serve fish in a 'fish shaped' dish. There is sense of calm on the streets however andnonchalant, peaceful ways of its people only suggests to me that that their inner fortitude and need for well being is kept in check but some external influence, what could that be I wonder? Perhaps a ferocious and non too benevolent dictator that dishes out his on hardcore form of justice. This is but a perception and has not yet been confirmed on our part but I'm putting my money on this being the case as I haven't had a citizen from Brunei take me for a quiet chat in a bar as yet (tough finding a bar in a Muslim country, believe me!).

Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque - Bandar Seri Begawan - State of Brunei Darussalam

'Get me outta here' - The very sedate passengers lounge - Brunei International Airport - Brunei

Jase @ 'The Long Bar' - Raffles Hotel - Singapore

Singapore Sling time - Long Bar - Raffles Hotel - Singapore

Bandar boredom aside, the real aim and starting point of our excursion was always going to be Hanoi, via an $85 drinks stop in the Long Bar of the Raffles hotel in Singapore. Is there any better way of spending a few hours in Singapore then taking up residence at the Raffles with a few speciality Singapore Slings to keep you company? Did you also know, by way of urban myth, that the last Asiatic tiger was shot under one of the tables in the Raffles long bar? Legendary, of course, but still an interesting story.

Everyone loves a winner, even a champion vindaloo eater - Singapore Airport - Singapore

What to say about Hanoi then ....what to say ? I'm sure the first thing that grabs most people and the aspect that initially sent my head spinning is the traffic. It's relentless, it's chaotic, heavy and makes you wonder how the hell people get to any place without coming to grief more times than you actually witness (which has been zero thus far). The city rings with the sound of car and bike horns almost 24/7 and you've got to think that the meaning associated with its use is lost on everyone because a 'get the f*** out of my way' horn blast only lasts for the duration of the next person in front or behind you. Multiply that effect by every second person on the numerous streets and alleyways and you'll start to get an idea of the street scape activity.

'Static motion' - Hanoi - Vietnam

'Contemplation' - Hoan Kiem Lake - Hanoi

Aside from that, Hanoi Rocks - it's a great place to get lost in. Small back streets, vendors street side cooking up all sorts Asian wonders, thin / tall terraced buildings, a kind of shabby but quaint feel that suckers you in from kick-off. For right now I'm going to leave my impressions for some time later in the game  because I've got to go and find a little resolve on the local brew for $1.10 a pop (ouch :)

Hanging out with Clarence

I've spent the last few weeks of my life kicking it with Clarence and more importantly taking shelter in his domain and on his street. I'm assuming that Clarence owns the property and the street was named in his honour, of course, I have never admitted to being anywhere near sane. I think the closest I got was back in April 2000 and there was a brief moment in October of 1994, some brilliant flashes in 1989 but outside of those timeframes, I've got nothing.

I don't feel compelled to discuss aspects of work at the moment, I can say the I'm scooting along swimmingly. As for Uni ? Three subjects hitting the 'red alert' radar by mid November, I should really be more stressed that I am, watch this space *space* ...go on, watch it and amuse me.

What to do , what to do ?

Well, I've got myself booked in for some Leyland Brothers galavanting in December with my partner in Sheesh and mentor in sarcasm, JC. Now this I'm looking forward to, if nothing else, for the assault on the senses that it will promise. In my current 32 years I've cruised through relatively economically robust countries and I'm looking forward to seeing areas that are a little less developed, a little more 'real' and somewhat more different to the stock European agenda that I've been on for sometime. The disappointing thing is that 2 weeks isn't a particularly substantial period of time to immerse yourself in the culture and get a real feel for life at it's base nuts & bolts level but I'll claim what I can. From the current agenda the highlight for me will be taking in Angkor Wat and doing a whistle stop tour of Cambodia. I don't really know why but as a child the stories of Pol Pot and Idi Amin always haunted the shadows of my historical and geographical interests. Maybe it's just the standard morbid fascination with the logic and reasoning that manifests itself in genocide through some type of warped ideological reasoning or maybe it's just a fascination with pure evil and how and why it can eventuate. I don't know, but Cambodia (Kampuchea) has always held a type of mythical place in my mind along with the ubiquitous Killing Fields that somehow represent whatever Cambodia is to me. I know viscerally that's not the case but as I've said, those well known ads for Cambodia keep popping into my head.

Where next then ? Well, I'm planning to put many miles up on the Elisher 'Flying Miles' scoreboard. I have solid plans for Morrocco, Portugal, Spain and France next year and at this moment in time December '08 has me drawn towards Gulmarg in Kashmir, although it's going to be a toss up between that or Chile/Argentina....but...if I go a year without snowboarding I don't feel like a 'real man', the argument of course being that I'm not, I'll leave that open to debate. Why all the travel ? Well, there's just too much to see and experience and not a hell of a lot of time to do it in. You never know how the cards will fall, so I'm raising and I dare anyone to call me - go on !!

Coffee, leg touches and every irritation in between.

Recently my life has become and endless cycle of work and study where paying tribute to the mundane would just be something too interesting. Indeed, it would be an achievment that flies in the face of deadlines, manufactured drama and bad breath. Still, on those wonderful mornings where I manage to get a few mins sleep on the ride to work, I manage to find things that irritate the living daylights out of me. Now, back in the day, I use to count how many girls I would have had sex with on the ride in (my record is 122 - I'm such a train slut). In any case, times have changed and my morning rage must be maintained. So here's my current list.

1. People that rush for their favoured seat: What the hell is that about ? You don't have a mortgage on on this piece of real estate, there's no change in the direction you're heading in. There are seats free everywhere and yet you need to sit in your one special place, every freakin day. Of course you know, my objective is to disrupt their safe, ritualistic journey. I often get looks of hatred when I've pulled the seat from right under pseudo custody.

2. Leg or arm touches: Urrggh - I hate this. Why oh why would I want to rub legs with anyone sitting next to me or have our arms touch just like we're the best of friends. I don't understand how anyone could be comfortable with this. It's not necessary, there's plenty of place to share, just let me have mine, you can have yours and we'll be all 'Cool and the Gang'. I once went shoulder to shoulder with one dude for 20 mins because he wouldn't budge, just because he 'assumed' he had real estate ownership of a two seater. This was some serious pressure and I'm sure both of us knew this was a challenge that we couldn't back down from. He did, 'loser' and finished off by rotating his shoulder a few times for effect. What an idiot !!

3. People that don't blow their nose: I've encountered some people that will just now blow their nose and are stoic in their decision to suck it up and make that God awful sound, not just once, not twice, but several times a minute. These people should be shot - seriously, I'd do it and I wouldn't shed a tear, I would even try my eye with a hanky.

4. Loud talkers: OK, not as bad as some of the others but again, it's not a concert or a bar, it's public transport and most people are on 'down time' either on their way into work or out. This just shows lack of respect and total ignorance of their environment. I'd love to walk into their bedroom whilst they were have their 'special' time and talk right through that.

5. Sneezers & Coughers: You're sick you Dilbert, stay at home and save me the drama of catching the crap that you have because your immune system is piss weak.

6. Loud music players: Nobody wants to listen to you playing Boston, 'More than a Feeling' at 45 on the Richter scale. Turn the freakin' thing down.

7. People that eat messy food: Kebabs, hamburgers, Chinese, garlic infused garlic. Damn, it's not a restaurant, I don't want your food over me nor do I want to smell it. There are places for you to do such things, can't you wait the 20+ mins to get home and eat or go out and eat, why on public transport ?

Reloaded

Reloaded and strung out on Caffeine

Isn't it just a pain in the tail when you forget passwords, login id's, names, numbers or even where you live !? Really, our lifestyle and daily worth is instrinsically connected with little cryptic clues that trigger our capacity to sign into something that then gives us the capacity to access, perform, achieve and whatever else I can think of. In any case, the only reason I'm complaining is that I've had to do a 'Rocky II' and reload the 'Death By Caffeine' as blogger has been crafty enough to hide my password from any address or cryptic clue that I can remember.

Hey....my lecturer just said 'shit', is that allowed in a lecture ? A moot point really because what he is discussing is 'shit', connotation and denotation within the concept of constitutional interpretation. Speaking of which, I might just grab a quote whilst he's waxing lyrical about some particular ammendment, 'No solider shall in time of peace be courted in any house...owner...war' - ah, whatever huh, that's what I think also. Quote is incomplete due to disinterest.

OK, so this is really just an update for my own sake, to get me back on to the righteous path of blog glory.