Kuala Lumpur - The 'Berserker'

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berserker

New Year's Eve - 2009/10 - Kuala Lumpur

Throwing up the decade digits - Skybar - Kuala Lumpur

So the shot that I’ve actually kicked off this write up with was taken in the decade following the one in which the detail of what I’m writing actually commenced. That’s me throwing up the ‘2010 digits’ after a night partying at Skybar in the Traders Hotel KL. Getting to this point however is something both Jet and I had contemplated over several months, and it was a NYE planned in order to be just one thing, ‘AWESOME’. Sometimes plans fail and sometimes they just line up with every expectation, so to find out which way it fell for us on this night, I need to back track a little and you might need to read on a little further!

The final day of 2009 had me waking up relatively early, (8:43 by all accounts on the Maxis tower), and staring at the Petronas Towers which were being bathed in the morning sunlight, which in turn was reflecting off it’s external façade and providing me with a moderate sunburn. Making our morning moves a little conservatively we so somehow managed to make it down to the Traders breakfast buffet two mins before it closed. Not particularly amazing in itself but impressive when you find out that in those two minutes prior to closing both Frichot and I rounded up a very vibrant and colourful mix of breakfasts foods, took them down with the contempt that they deserved and then dodged the outgoing breakfast traffic to steal anything that was left over. We are the masters of the final minute breakfast lap and surely if we were in F1 we’d have qualified for pole position without any dramas.

Morning view - Petronas Towers from our room at the Traders

Post breakfast we were back up in our room for a while, just chilling out. Jet got into pose down for a few shots for his myspace page, the photos of which he still hasn’t harassed me for but one of which I’ve included here because I think it looks pretty good. We then decided to take a short ride up to the Skybar and check out what was to be our base for NYE in KL.

Frichot - Myspace pose down

The pool deck - Skybar - Traders Hotel

So, how to describe Skybar? Well, for starters it has ‘THE’ view that you’d want to have if you were going to celebrate the main transition! Located on the top floor of the Traders Hotel overlooking KLCC park and the iconic Petronas Towers, it obviously had the view but also had prime position for the fireworks that were going to be let loose at midnight. Right in the centre of what can really be classified as a large atrium is a lap pool, and truthfully, even prior to seeing it I kind of already knew that my destiny would be to end up in the drink sometime after midnight…but that’s a story for later. Along one side of the pool is a none too wide walkway that provides access to the sunken lounges and large bay windows that in turn provide a fantastic outlook onto the park. The far end of the room is where the main bar is located, and scattered around the pheriphery of the pool on the side opposite the main outlook are lounges, bar stools/tables etc. We walked in in order to try and scope a suitable position for the evening but realised quick smart that most of the tables and lounge seating had been booked out and that come 9 or 10pm getting into this place would be near impossible to get into. Having a drink and questioning the bar staff as to availability we found that the upper deck/balcony above the pool was being opened up and that tables there could be reserved…for a price…from what we were told, it was a requirement to purchase two bottles of ‘something’ from their menu in order to confirm your place. To me personally this was a no brainer, if you’re going to be drinking on NYE then why the hell not order in advance. Of course the NYE menu was overpriced but you were locking yourself in to some prime real estate for the festivities. I don’t think it took Frichot too long to make up his mind either, as a few mins later we were advance ordering our vodka and champagne and having it explained that all mixers were included and being briefed on the names of our personal wait staff for the night. ‘Oh Yeah’, it was sounding like we had the plan and it was taking effect. I did also quiz our man as to how many people would 'per chance' end up in the pool during the evening and his comment was, ‘there’s always someone’ …yes my man, isn’t that the case…remember my face bro’, you’ll be fishing me out sometime after 12!

Mr Frelisher - locked and loaded at Skybar

Mr Frelisher also!?

We left Skybar feeling pretty damn psyched as to the set-up that we had. Sometimes NYE’s can be flops but I usually think that the failure is derived from not ‘setting yourself’ up properly. Winging it on NYE is kind of a waste as everyone is out and about, the place that you know or might like to be in  will inevitably be full or even if you do get into a place then it's going to cost you big! Wasting time and effort late in the piece just puts you on a downer, so at the very least, if you have a destination and friends to boot, well, you’ve won half the battle.

Dropping down to KLCC park and then walking over to Petronas, we spent most of the later half of the afternoon just cruising the huge centre under the towers, checking out some of the stores and also trying out the local delicacies. Well, when I say delicacy I should probably say more ‘oddity’. We stopped in at 1901 which is the hot dog equivalent of McDonalds and took ourselves down a couple of Deutsch Doodle Dangs, done more so for the novelty of the name than anything else. Innuendo and weirdness aside, the dog was a damn good one and we had no complaints with following up for the repeat journey of a good old Deutsch following numero uno. [Check out the Doodle Dang Action here]

Deutsch Doodle Dang - A whole lot of something...and more!

Frichot at Petronas - I love this shot!

As the afternoon drew on into the early evening we saw that there was already a few people starting to gather around the main lake in KLCC park, that NYE vibe was just starting to pick up and we were riding that wave. Walking back to the Traders and taking up residence back in our room, we took some time out to raid the bar fridge again and watched the NYE lights take over in the park with Petronas acting as the focal point. With each drink that we had and as the hours ticked on by, that NYE vibe was just starting to resonate at a higher frequency. Ripping out some of AC/DC’s new album and the Black Eyed Peas party classic, I’ve got a feelin’, by the time that 9:30pm rocked around I was suited up and Jet was in his newly purchased Chinese style tunic, and yeah, we were ready to roll!!

Kuala Lumpur, NYE - ready to go off!

Frichot giving KL the 'What for..' - Watch out, we're coming

Skybar, set to go!

Skybar

Skybar was looking good by the time we walked in. We headed upstairs to our table, marked out our territory and started to get our drink on with the attentive assistance of Juno who was going to be our man for all things food and drink related –Vodka, lemonade and lime, ‘why yes sir’! Spring rolls ? Why yes again, thanks Juno. Frichot and I kicked off with our bottle of vodka and took up a position on the balcony overlooking the pool. You could just feel that this place was going to be a hell of a lot of fun, everyone was in a good mood, the music was just right and the setting was as much as you could ask for. By the time the DJ decided to drop I’ve got a feelin, which probably would have been about the 15th time I’d heard it that day…but was still getting better and better with each spin, the room was in full NYE swing and if we didn’t know it before, well we knew it then, this was going to be one for the ages.

Elisher....Henry, Elisher

Windows on the world

'Ay, you order fly lice sir?'

Kind of raising the roof...kind of not

Frichot looks kind of possessed here

Rounding out the 11pm marker and heading into the NYE home straight, I ducked down into our room for a minute or two to set up the camera to capture the fireworks over KLCC park and Petronas. Whilst I still haven’t uploaded this video I can tell you it’s first cut viewing looked pretty damn impressive. Back up at Skybar however the queue out the front door was long and filled with prospective clientele who unfortunately for them had left their run too late, Skybar on this night was at capacity. Finding my man Frichot happily drinking back at the table, I joined him to ride shotgun and bring home the new decade.

The count in - two minutes of the decade left

11:59

Dawn of a new decade!!!!

…and so it was, Frichot and I closed out 2009 in kind of the way we had started it...365 days earlier we had been at a Mexican restaurant overlooking the Yarra in Melbourne when the fireworks lit up the sky [Melbourne NYE Fireworks - 2008/09]. On this evening we were in the capital of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur and bringing in a new decade exactly the way that we had intended it, with style and a good dose of fun!

[NYE Fireworks - 2009/10 - Kuala Lumpur]

  

Kuala Lumpur - NYE - 2009/10

Kuala Lumpur - NYE - 2009/10

Kuala Lumpur - NYE - 2009/10

Kuala Lumpur - NYE - 2009/10

Kuala Lumpur - NYE - 2009/10

The fireworks display was spectacular and the façade of Petronas provided more than a useful mirror to amplify the colours of the display. As you can see from the photos, it was just one of those nights that you’ll always remember.

Frichot, 9 mins of the decade in

Frichot getting friendly with the girl next door...who apparently had just gotten married!?

Frichot strikes - AGAIN

Somehow I’ve always had the perception that the hours after midnight for NYE always move on a hell of a lot faster than the hours prior to it, and tonight was no exception. Midnight turned into 1am almost instantly and by this time, well, my vision of making the one storey dive into the Skybar pool had reached a critical moment. It was now safe enough for me to do as getting thrown out was not going to be the devastating issue that it would have been prior to the cutover. Informing Frichot of my decision, my partner in all things chaotic gave me a resounding ‘DO IT’ – I’m going to film it’, and yeah, it was now game on. Admittedly it took me a little while to build up for the jump but when my brain snapped, well I was already over the ‘no return’ line. I made my way over the glass barricade and stood on the ledge ready to go, and by the time I heard Frichot say, ‘…Yeah, Elisher’s going for a run’, I taken a step and I was flying through space in the Skybar. I won’t lie, it was more than a little exhilarating to take the dive and the cheers coming from the Skybar punters also displayed a little appreciation for my manoeuvre.
[Skybar dive - NYE]

The Skybar crew - post the 'SkyDive'

That's the beginning of my 'trashed face' look

'Oh Henry, why the bottle of red!?'

Sticking it out to the bitter end

Are you scared little girl!?

Walking back up to our central location overlooking the pool I felt more than certain that we were going to get escorted out of the place and sure enough, security did make an appearance not to long after. Surprisingly though, they were kind of cool about the incident. They only asked me a few questions and didn’t press me too hard about anything else, well other than the fact that they wanted my word that I wouldn’t try the stunt out again…lol…and I didn’t.

With a fist load of endorphins and a little male bravado to the good I for some reason thought it was an even better idea to order myself and Jet a bottle of red to keep the good times a rollin’. Ladies and gentleman, this was to be our tipping point. A bottle of red on the back of the vodka and champagne that we’d just tried was probably not the smartest play of the night, and by the time 3am rolled around, me in my still quite saturated ‘remains of the day’ suit and Frichot in his tunic, were rolling around on concrete showing each other the martial arts moves that we’d both picked up over the years. In actual fact, Frichot kicked my arse big time, but I wasn’t prepared to back down from the challenge that he was throwing up at me. The real challenge for us however was that 3am closing at Traders meant that we needed to find another place to keep the NYE party moving and I’m not sure if either of us was in the right frame of mind to suggest anything that had real purpose or potential. For me, this part of the night gets more than a little hazy, but I do remember dropping down into KLCC park for a bit of a morning stroll and then somehow jumping a taxi to Chinatown from somewhere close to the Petronas Towers.

The Karate Kid in KLCC park

Pulling up in Chinatown and still having the wits about me to outgun the taxi driver that was trying to scam us for double the ringett value of the ride, the only thing that we could find open was good ‘ole Maccas. Walking in, most of the tables were occupied by recovering revellers sleeping off their night. For me this was kind of amusing and I felt compelled to take a photo of two of the girls crashed out on the table next to us, well, that was until a middle aged and I think more than conservative Malay man flipped out about us taking the photo. This guy had rage in his eyes but I had alcohol in my veins and I wasn’t going to back down from the crap that he was throwing at us. In all seriousness it could have turned into a fight but Macca’s security suppressed the rage and took myself and Frichot outside to have a chat. After explaining our situation we walked back in and based ourselves in an alternate location, somehow finding some equally hammered Finnish and Norwegian dudes to chat with.

NYE lights out in Macca's - the hands (stage left) are of the man that wanted to kill us

Do you think I need coffee? Man, I need something!

Somewhere close to 5:30am we dragged ourselves out of Macca’s and took a ride back to the Traders. Not sure what the hell I was talking about but I do recall having a stimulating conversation with the taxi driver. Walking into our room a little after 6:00am Frichot had hit the wall and needed to tap out. For some reason I was still charged and hung out for the bell at 6:30am which signalled the commencement of the breakfast buffet at Traders. I did everything in my power to pull Frichot out of his New Years Day coma, cranking I’ve got a feelin at full blast and even screaming it in his ear….but nothing….my partner in crime had checked out. As I walked out and closed the door behind I kind of chuckled, I new that the drinks of several hours earlier would eventually ‘claim me’ and that I’d be taken on that wild hangover ride a little later in the piece. With Struggle St beckoning it was time to make the most of the buffet breakfast on offer, and that’s exactly what I did, I took it down for all it was worth…..(to be continued)

Kuala Lumpur - The penultimate

It was an early morning start at the Hotel Elegance, breakfast at 6am and a 6:30am pick-up by taxi to take me to Hanoi International for a flight to Kuala Lumpur. After approximately 10 days in this fascinating and wonderful place I was flying back to Malaysia to meet up with my travelling buddy and future NYE cohort, Mr Jet Frichot.

Walking out into the darkness, Hanoi provided me with a light drizzle to accompany me on the drive out of the city to the airport. My head touching the head rest, I drifted off, my eyes opening every now and then with the start and stop of the taxi dodging its way through the morning traffic. Meandering through a combination of daydreams and reality, enjoying the rain falling on the windshield, my time in Vietnam had been as enjoyable as I had wanted it to be and my travelling buddy had been an absolute legend – even if he did absorb all the attention and interest from every passing stranger ! :)

The flight out of Hanoi with Air Asia X was set to leave at 9:20am and get into Kuala Lumpur somewhere about 1:30pm local time. I did recall when I was setting up arrival times for myself and for Frichot’s flight out of Saigon that arrival in KL was going to be within 15 mins of each other. Assuming that all things went to schedule I had kind of imagined us somehow catching up in the arrivals hall or even in the customs line prior to baggage claim, perhaps a little far fetched but that what I had imagined. As I disembarked in KL and walked through to customs the lines were all full but still I scanned the lines for my long haired friend just in case. It was kind of amazing but as I was doing the scan I saw Frichot turn around and catch me dead in the eye – you can’t get an international rendezvous organised better than that my friends. As Jet was already in queue it allowed me to jump probably about 20 mins of boredom and progress through customs without any hassle at all, and then, there we were, back in old KL where it had all started just a few weeks earlier.

Before jumping onto a KL Sentral Express, Frichot and I parked ourselves at the local Macca’s for what Frichot had promised was going to be a major culinary experience. In his earlier solo escapades he had discovered the McDonalds in Malaysia have their own local delicacy, the Prosperity Burger, made in either chicken or beef, that is absolutely soaked/drenched in a relatively hot pepper sauce. This he explained was a must, so we rounded up a chicken and beef burger each in order to take the challenge. Biting down into that pressed mystery meat, pepper sauce oozing out of the bun and dripping onto the table, I’ve got to say, from the perspective off eating an item that was absolutely hideous in form and being equally as messy, the end result wasn’t too bad [Click on the Prosperity Burger Challenge Link to check it out!]. As an interesting side note, we were also later to find out that ‘prosperity’ in Malaysian actually means oblong, thus the obvious shape of the burger. Needless to say, the pepper sauce on the burger was bountiful and I just assumed that the volume was somehow linked to the ‘prosperous name’.

After our savage Malaysian dining experience we ‘swam’ through all the humidity that the KL atmosphere had to offer and parked ourselves into a KL Sentral transit bus which was thankfully air conditioned to the hilt. The ride from KL LCC into the city takes approximately an hour and we both crashed out for a while, I assume our early morning flights having gotten the better of us.

Frichot getting caught out - did someone order a cup of HTFU?

It was good to catch up with Frichot again. I mean I’d only had a few days in Hoi An on my own, and that was cool, but because the trip had been absolutely freakin’ awesome thus far I was really looking forward to getting back into the ‘Frelisher’ combination and ‘claiming’ KL for all it had to offer so that we could rock out 2009 in style and bring in a new decade with the exuberance and requisite excitement that was required.

Offloading at KL Sentral we managed to score ourself one of those ‘union’ taxis after a moderate wait and quickly made our way to the Traders Hotel which was to be our ‘humble abode’ for the next two nights. Now let me just say, we chose this place primarily due to its outlook onto KLCC park, it’s view of Petronas Towers and the great bar (Skybar) that they had on the top level of the hotel which was to be our vantage point for viewing the fireworks for NYE and also  our one stop shop for all things alcoholic. What I didn’t expect however was the view that we encountered when we opened the doors to our room! Whoa!! The towers were virtually standing right in front of us, and at a height of 451 mtrs, it was more than ‘just’ an impressive sight to have as the backdrop to your room….it was ‘freakin’ awesome’! I remember Frichot and I rearranging the couches in the room slightly to face the window, and as we ransacked the bar fridge and looked out onto this spectacular view we discussed our trip thus far, the monetary difficulties that he had encountered in Saigon and also our plans for the next evening – we had the mandate – Close out the decade in style!

The view of Petronas from our room - as taken on arrival

[Check out the Petronas View, as taken by the maestro, Jet Frichot]

Welcome to Kuala Lumpur

Night shot of Petronas taken from our room at the Traders

I love this shot - Frichot in the zone!

After a fair bit of time chatting and watching the evening set in, we went up to the Skybar for a while in order to check out the surroundings and then dropped down into KLCC park to see what we could find.

KL Tower taken from the Skybar @ Traders

Petronas taken from KLCC Park

For this evening there didn’t appear to be much going on in the immediate vicinity so we jumped a taxi to the Beach Bar, which was a place that I remembered from my trip to Laos earlier in the year. I have to say however, what I encountered on this evening bore absolutely no resemblance to what JJ and I had found approximately nine months earlier. The set up of the bar was absolutely the same but on this evening the place was packed, and not for the reasons that you may imagine. As we walked in and checked out the clientele we realised that there were a disproportionate amount of females congregated in groups both sitting inside and outside the bar, whose choice of attire was far below the bar set in relatively conservative Malaysia. These girls obviously were out to make some fast money and this place obviously was a place where the setting up of these transactions were done freely. Jet and I picked ourselves a few drinks and sat outside to observe how business was conducted and to see how these girls ‘stalked their prey’. It was amusing for a while and I readily admit that a few of them were just more than a little gorgeous but that was a track I wasn’t going to take. In any case, we finished up at the Beach Bar relatively early and hiked it back to Traders for a couple of nightcaps in our room before closing out the day. Tomorrow however was going to be another story and we were preparing ourselves for what it was going to deliver!

Hoi An - Lost in transition

This was to be my last day in Hoi An, and by now as you have already come to realise, the place had well and truly suckered me in. It’s quaint, relaxed, serene in part and has some really kind, good natured people. What’s more, you get the best of both worlds, a beautiful ancient trading port filled with all the things you look for as a tourist and just 5kms down the road you have a great beach where you can wile the way the hours overlooking Cham island in the South China Sea. What’s more, the place is so ridiculously cheap that it comes to bargaining with the locals it ends up making you feel a little uneasy and unethical about the whole process, especially when you’re in a relatively heated dispute over what amount to a dollar or two. The thing is that a lot of the time you end up forgetting the exchange rate and bargain strictly on ‘comparative value’, haggling over say 10,000 dong and then realising only later that it was kind ‘some kind of silly’ that made you do it.

After breakfast at the Nhi Nhi I rode out of town and back to the ‘My Son’ café, located about 2/3rds of the way to Cua Dai beach. I took up residence on a more than comfortable lounge overlooking the river, sat back and wrote down random thoughts and impressions in my journal, watched the local fisherman paddle by, got lost in the time and space within my mind and just chilled out basically. It was one of this contemplative moments that you would be happy to stay in for days, and the three hours that I did spend passed me over in an instant. I also think that the several Manhattan’s that accompanied my later morning journey also made up a large part of my well being.

My Son Cafe - Hoi An

One of my favourite shots - My Son Cafe - Hoi An

My Son Cafe - Hoi An

Long Island Ice Tea and a journal

Locals on the river

Locals on the river

As unfortunate as it was I had to pull myself away from the My Son, hopefully I’ll be able to make my way back to this place again sometime in the near future because it’s a truly charming place where time should really be one of the last things on your mind. Riding back into town I stopped at the corner baguette vendor that Lili and Judith had tipped me off on the day before, their pork roll was phenomenal and on this day, well it certainly lived up to my high expectations of the place.

Pork roll bonanza - coming right up!

Seeing as though I was going to be flying out of Da Nang in a few hours time there wasn’t a lot that I was able to do before leaving for the airport. This actually worked in my favour, it forced me to slow down and enjoy the moment. Taking up residence at the River Lounge, I laid back on their enormous lounges that doubled as day beds and got drawn into the great French chill/low tempo music that they were playing. It actually had my mind tracking back 18 months earlier to some of the fantastic bars in Marrakech, they mostly had the same type of quality music and unique atmosphere. Now this is something that I probably should have done a day or so earlier but what the hell, you take it when you can get it. I eventually dragged myself away from the River Lounge and rode out of town to take a few shots before making my way back to the Nhi Nhi in order to checkout and take a ride back up to Da Nang airport for the early evening flight to Hanoi.

Hoi An street shot

Hoi An street shot

River Lounge - Hoi An

Hoi An

Somewhere about 3pm Tony’s brother picked me up from the Nhi Nhi and whisked me 30kms up the coast to Da Nang. It was kind of amazing and almost a little disappointing to notice the amount of resorts that had set up along the coastline in the two years since my last visit. I mean, I understand the reasons offcourse, that’s the price you pay for the sake of progress and economics when you have such a beautiful natural resource on your doorstep. Still, you don’t want to see them completely wreck the place, which by the size and numbers of developments taking place seems to already been a forgone conclusion.

Sunset over the Marble Mountains - Da Nang

The flight out of Da Nang was at 5:45pm, and just after 7pm I was back in Hanoi. The Hanoi Elegance hotel had kindly arranged a pick-up from the airport and before I knew it, I was back out in the hectic hustle and bustle of another Hanoi evening. Hearing the incessant sounds of car and scooter horns, the insane manoeuvring of the vehicles, it felt as though I’d come full circle. It was only two years earlier that I’d made my first inroads into Hanoi, not knowing really what to expect and remembering how the chaotic nature of the traffic really heightened all my senses. On this night I kind of expected it. I don’t think you ever get use to it but there’s something very fluid and unique about it and Hanoi generally that really strikes a chord with me – sometimes you just can’t help liking a place.

The Hanoi Elegance 1 is located in the Old Quarter only a couple of blocks from the top of Hoan Kiem lake. I had a great room, a nice little balcony overlooking the nightly traffic ‘nutfest’ and also an offer to catch up with Vanessa for some late night shenanigans, although as per my last pass through Hanoi I knew in myself that I wouldn’t be taking her up on it. So for this evening, it was really very simple, I cruised around and did a little shopping, soaked in the usual Hanoi vibrancy and ended up at a local restaurant for a late dinner and a few more cocktails. I closed out this evening relatively early, about 11:30pm, but with that said, I was catching an early flight the next day back to Kuala Lumpur and my man Jet Frichot was going to be waiting to assist with bringing 2010 in style!

Last night in Hanoi - on Hoan Kiem Lake

Hoi An - Zen and the art of bicycle maintenance

Mornings made easy are best resolved by early nights, but seriously, where is the fun in accomplishing that feat each and every day? It’s like getting an award for participation of recognition for attendance, ‘thanks dude, you showed up!’. In any case, morning at the Nhi Nhi on this day was a little easier than the previous ones, which only translated into the fact that I was ‘soft’ the night before.

I’d resolved the day before that I’d get out to the beach today and just chill for the most part, drink, write in my journal and do not much generally. The only shame was that when I hit the streets on this morning Hoi An had decided to blanket itself with grey skies aplenty and leant towards weather more accustomed with late Autumn than anything akin to Summer. Still, sometimes half the battle is willing yourself to be optimistic, so I jumped onto my bike and headed east to the beach via a short stop at Tony’s to work on an evening ‘fitting session’.

Cua Dai beach is pleasantly long and once you remove yourself from the centre of activity, which is basically at the end of Cura Dai Rd, well, then you pretty much have the beach to yourself. I settled in at restaurant/hut #9 on the beach, positioning myself on a sunning chair looking out over the South China Sea, a few Blue Hawaiian cocktails in transit and a relaxed vibe that had already arrived well before making my entrance at #9. Whilst I had the intention of living life as a Middle Eastern prince for the afternoon an evil little tempest blew up off the sea relatively early in the piece and was accompanied by rain not too long after, blowing away my chances of being fed spring rolls and grapes by spritely Vietnamese teens. A shame really, it would have been such a great place to do not much at all for the day.

Blue Hawaiians on Cua Dai Beach

Cua Dai Beach - Looks like I 'owned' this area!

I decided to head back into town after my dreams were shattered by the temperamental Hoi An weather. Strangely, running along the same lines of thought as the evening before I wondered what my fate would be if the chain slipped kms from anywhere and I was required to call upon myself to actually fix something. Almost Zen like I had channelled into the moment because no more than a few mins after that thought had entered my conscious mind I was parked by the side of the road, bike flipped over and me doing my best to remember what the Vietnamese Mr Miyagi had shown me as the correct procedure for resurrecting a bike in the Ancient Town just the evening before. By some strange feat of skill, dexterity and a little memory recovery I somehow managed to slip the chain back onto the gears with my hands and hey, back in business, all greased up but still on the road.

Seeing as though my slight mishap occurred only a short distance from the My Son café l decided to stop in and get myself cleaned up a little. No sooner had I parked my bike across the road than I head Lilli call out and ask me to come over. As you may recall, Lilli and Judith were two of three girls that we had crashed the Karaoke Christmas party with a couple of nights earlier, so who was I not to be gentlemanly and not stop in to share a drink or several!?....and that’s exactly what I did, chatted for a while, enjoyed the company and surrounds, drinking my way into another afternoon.

Lilli and Judith suggested that we cruise into town and grab an ‘all you can eat style of baguette’ that they had located at a road side hawker a day or so earlier. Once again, like I was going to turn down an offer to accompany these two lovely ladies on their quest? I think not! So on their recommendation I ordered up a pork baguette with the works and I’ve got to say that it went down a treat. A fabulous mix of meat, salad and chilli! We then continued on down through the markets, walking alongside the Thu Bon river until we got to the Mango Rooms restaurant & café. We sat just inside the door in a kind of raised platform area that had comfortable cushions spread out on its floor and a wooden ‘low rider’ style table that of course had to be accompanied by the requisite slovenly lounging. It was fantastic to sit back and look out of the huge roadside windows out onto the Thu Bon, with drink in hand and just chat the afternoon away.

Some while later we parted company but did that ‘kind of’ agree to ‘meet up thing’ at the Before and Now bar sometime close to 10:30. You know what I mean, it’s like ‘well, if you don’t have something better to do’ and you give them the same answer, knowing full well that the best offer that you have is the one that’s currently on the table. With that in mind I rode on back to the hotel and got my gear together for the next day’s departure. I’d be flying back to Hanoi in the early evening the following day and thought it would be easier to get all my important items in order now so as to buy me a little additional time in Hoi An the next morning.

Later on in the evening I headed out to the River Lounge to have myself a little bit of dinner and relax on their ridiculously large day beds that doubled as patron seating. Aside from this place being a great place to hang out, listen to a bit of music and relax, it was a also a ridiculously cheap place to have a great dinner. I sat out on the balcony whilst having dinner which was a set menu, 3 small starters as an entrée (spring rolls, pumpkin soup and some other style of vegetarian rolls), chicken and rice as a main, crème bruleè as a finalè…the final result to the back pocket was 120,000VND or the equivalent of $10 AUD which also included two Manhattan’s!!!

Hoi An - shot from River Lounge

River Lounge - Hoi An

Entree's - River Lounge - Hoi An

Interior - River Lounge - Hoi An

Took the bike for a spin around town for a while after dinner but turned up at the old haunt, the Before and Now bar for a few. As good fortune and a little good planning would have it, Lilli, Judith and Jolene were already there and were in the need of some male company, again, like I was going to argue with that rationale.

Random street shot - Hoi An

As becomes the common game at this bar, you drink, chat, drink some more and end up destroying a few hours quite easily in the process. I’m sure at some point in the night the girls ordered a round of beers and I managed to hijack myself a daiquiri in the round – now picture that if you will, three beers and a daiquiri for the fruit that was trying to be all manly!? Lol, I certainly got paid out for that choice. In any case we ended up staying until closing which was about 2:30am, a couple of boys from Iowa and Jersey joining us for the action sometime towards the end of the night.

Before and Now Bar - Le Loi St - Hoi An

About the right odds - Befoe and Now Bar - Hoi An

Another great evening in Hoi An and yet another late night return to the Nhi Nhi – I’m sure the staff were happy to see my pretty face waking them up at 3am again!

Hoi An - Tranquillo

It was a now well understood and common complexity to our daily ritual...wake up... feel the rays of light on your face and commence coping with the hangover that ‘night before’ Elisher had kindly gifted to ‘next day’ Elisher. We struggled to make the breakfast table at the Nhi Nhi, a ritual that I would have gladly missed but for the disarmingly great Vietnamese coffee that was always on call by the time you took your seat. A couple of those, a little sweetened condensed milk and there you had it, the cure for any self inflicted ailment.

Interior of the Nhi Nhi Hotel - Hoi An

This was going to be Frichot’s last day in Hoi An before heading down south to Saigon in order to catch up with a few friends from his last visit. We decided that we’d take the bikes out for a while and travel down river and out of town in order to see what was on offer. Pushing along out of Hoi An, with the breezes at our backs, it was more than a gentle and comfortable ride on the flat roads that cut through mainly rice paddy fields and the occasional scattering of houses.

Taken from our morning ride

Morning ride from Hoi An

After riding out of town a few kms we turned 180 degrees and road back into the Ancient Town and onto one of the tailors that I’d done a little business with the day before after concluding my session with Tony. After trying on a few of the items and also checking in on the progress of the shorts that Jet had requested, we were asked to return in approximately an hour, easy resolution to that one, we were on our bikes and back exploring the surrounds. We essentially rode into the backwoods of Hoi An (check out the red dotted line on the map), riding mainly across rice fields and along dirt roads lined with tall palms. In the heat of the day and virtually in the middle of nowhere we stumbled upon ‘The Great’ café, essentially a couple of tables and chairs that were set up in someone’s backyard. We sat there happily as the owners children vied for our attention by showing of their toys. Now, I don’t know what went into the coffee that this lady made for me but it was one of the most wickedly heads spinning coffee’s that I’ve ever had. I think I had Frichot in stitches for a good view minutes with some of the comments I was coming out with – that coffee was Vietnamese country wild!

The blue line shows the morning ride out of town

The red line shows the afternoon spin that we took

We rode on back to the tailors a little over an hour later only to find that the shorts could not be made, well no problemo, off to the Now and Then bar for some drinks, lunch and the general feeling of tranquillity that comes from being in Hoi An.

Getting back to the hotel a few drinks to the good, Jet was in pack-up mode as he was getting ready to jump a flight from Da Nang to Saigon at 6pm that evening. We said our goodbyes and looked forward to catching up in KL for what would inevitably be a great NYE, of that I was already absolutely certain. Leaving Frichot to finish up at the Nhi Nhi, I rode back out to Tony the Tailor’s in order to go through a shirt/suit fitting. In one of those kind of serendipitous moments I had the odd thought of wondering what I’d actually do if the chain came off my bike and I found myself having to push it back to home base. As of course, as destiny and good fortune had it happen, I didn’t have to wait more than 5 mins to find out what that result would be. As I rode along one of the streets in the Ancient Town I pushed down on the pedal and then felt the other give, I knew straight away that the chain had come off, damn it, I was now left with the corpse of a bike. However, as the theme of ‘happy coincidences’ continued on this trip, I pulled up to the curb and parked my bike directly in front of an elderly Vietnamese man who just so happened to have a tool kit with him. He took hold of the bike, pulled out something from his tool kit and had the chain slipped back on in under 30 seconds – it was like riding around with your own personal bike mechanic on call. As he slipped the chain back onto the gears and kind of showed me the problem I took a mental note of the requirements…I didn’t want to be 5kms out of town having to push the damn thing back in that distance under any circumstance.

Making it to Tony’s a little later on, I checked in on what had been delivered thus far. The shirts were of course supreme, the jackets even better and the suits near perfect, only requiring minor adjustments, which would get completed overnight and be ready to roll the next day.

I rode around for a little while after that, stopping off at another bar in town and getting lost in a game of pool with the resident staff for a while. We were both crap and the game took forever to complete. I cruised around for a little longer but on this night didn’t really manage to find anything that appealed to me or where I could spent a little time on my own. In any case, after a few days of late nights/early mornings I decided to give myself a bit of a night off and called in early, somewhere about 11pm.

Lantern Central