Kazbegi (GEORGIA) - under the shadows of the mighty Caucasus

Kazbegi (Georgia)
12 September 2016

Today was my the birthday of my future brother-in-law and we collectively decided to spend the day discovering how insane Georgians become when they're put behind the wheel of a motor vehicle.

I think there's something to be said for the discovery of the core characteristics of a people when you hit the streets and observe the way they handle themselves on the road. Part of their psyche is bared for all to see. Driving in its raw state, with all of its individualised emotions whilst in a vehicle, I believe, can give you a somewhat accurate portrait of that society when looked at in a whole. Here are some of the insights I've gathered from my time on the road in various parts of the world;

Serbia: There is an incessant use of hazard lights in the hope of ratifying an illegality, i.e., parking like an absolute dumb arse. They double park, triple park, just stop in the middle of a street to take or make a call, ignore lane lines, etc. They're constantly doing stupid things on the road, either because, they are stupid, or, they believe in the standard Serbian philosophy of 'f**k you'. That view is the egotistical stand point where Serbians believe that they, as an individual, are entitled to get away with everything under the sun but in the same breath where they truly believe that nobody else should be afforded the same entitlement because, you know, they are so much better than everyone else and they are the only ones that should be entitled.

Serbian cultural insight: Stupid, idiotic, plain dumb at times with self-inflated ego's born out of inferiority complexes.

Vietnam: These guys operate in some crazed world where traffic lights and street signs have no baring upon directing the actual nature of traffic. This frenzied and chaotic approach to driving somehow flows in an organic and fluid mass of confusion. It works, 'just'.

Vietnamese cultural insight: Amidst the chaos there's a strange sense of harmony

Australia: Oddly polite, structured and well mannered on the road, some might say even cultured. The only use of the car horn is in extreme anger or under polite duress

Australian cultural insight: The nanny state has made it onto our roads with politeness infiltrating our ever fibre, seeping into our mode of transit.

Italy: Frenzied brutality with constant chaos. Moves are made out blatant aggression and machismo. If you can't accept the rules of the wild then 'Vaffanculo'

Italian cultural insight: Full of sass, male bravado and dumb angst.

.....which now brings me all the way to Georgia. Oh dear, Georgian driving....

Georgia: Mad!  Mad men, mad women, blatantly crazy. They are insane and take risks that are beyond the border of dangerous, entering the world of suicidal. Lanes are mere guidelines, speed limits are there to be decimated, smoking and drinking whilst driving is accepted as good behaviour.

Georgian cultural insight: Georgia is a mix of everything meaning that their style of driving reflects an environment where all things are allowed and a place where friendliness amongst the populace is released through ludicrous kamikaze style manoueveres on the roads.

                                             Zhinvali water reservoir - Georgia

Zhinvali water reservoir - Georgia

Ananuri fortress - Georgia

Ananuri fortress - Georgia

Ananuri fortress - Georgia

Ananuri fortress - Georgia

On the road to Kazbegi - Georgia

I say all this for the fact that we had hired a driver to take us to Kazbegi. What I witnessed from him and what I witnessed from Georgian drivers generally, makes we wonder to this day the debt that I have to the universe in still being alive. These guys are MAD, make no mistake about that. This dance with death was my take away from the morning 'driving experience' as we made our way the 150kms north to Kazbegi. It was a drive punctuated by errant games of chicken, speeding beyond the means and capacity of the van and a sleepy eyed drivers whose name may have been Andre or Anatoli for all I can remember.

Our route to Kazbegi was punctuated by a stop approximately 75kms out of Tbilisi, called Ananuri fortress. The fortress/castle build on right bank of the Aragvi river, is located on the main route out of Tbilisi to the Russian frontier and in the past was part of the Great Silk Road. The bell tower, the castle, three churches and the fortress walls are beautifully carved from stone and make for an attractive focal point in what is a scene of serene beauty.

Ananuri fortress - Georgia

Ananuri fortress - Georgia

On the road to Kazbegi - Georgia

On the road to Kazbegi - Georgia

On the road to Kazbegi - Georgia

On the road to Kazbegi - Georgia

                                                On the road to Kazbegi - Georgia

On the road to Kazbegi - Georgia

A few hours later we made it to Kazbegi and onto the northern slopes of the Caucasus range, very close to the Russian border. The draw card here, aside from the dramatic scenery, is silhouette of the famous Gergeti Trinity church as it stands, perched high upon an empty, lonely grassed hill, in front of the almighty Mt Kazbek. The imposing ranges look down on this holy place and provide a reverent and regal backdrop to the site.

 The start of our walk to Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

Kazbegi - Georgia

 Kazbegi - Georgia

Climbing up to the church from the town of Kazbegi takes all of an hour, and its mostly a 'huff and puff' affair. Ever upward and relentless, the walk is enjoyable enough but unscrupulously deceptive in the level of effort needed to hike up. As we discovered, there are roads to be utilised to make it up should you choose to do that. Knowing the company I was in however the reality was that the option was one that would never be taken. Still, when you earn each step up you get to really appreciate the vista for both the effort you put in and also the natural beauty that surrounds you, and without question, the scenery was beautiful. The landscapes of the Caucasus in this part are grand, vast, and completely fill up your field of vision. Coupled with that, we were also lucky enough to have encountered a really nice, comfortable day, that simply enhanced our entire mood.  

The road down from Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

The road down from Gergeti Trinity Church - Kazbegi - Georgia

All in all, another fabulous day in the understated and utterly surprising country of Georgia.

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Tbilisi (GEORGIA) - სიცოცხლე გაოცება

Tbilisi (Georgia)
09 September - 12 September 2016

სიცოცხლე გაოცება -  Life will surprise you

Before I went to Georgia what I could tell you about the country could probably fit neatly onto the back of a postage stamp, meaning, I knew where it was located and I knew the name of the capital city - that was it!

Inga's father is from Georgia, I also knew that, which means that now, writing this blog from the year 2019, my son Aiden, is also part Georgian.

Where to start?

Georgian culture is an exotic, intoxicating and mysterious mix, containing elements of Anatolian, European, Persian, Arabic, Ottoman and Far Eastern cultures. By the very nature of its location, at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, its deliberately placed itself in the path of all-comers, and they in turn have influenced this country (and this city), stretching back millennia.

Inga, Davis, Annija and myself on Rustaveli Avenue - Tbilisi - Georgia

Tbilisi - Georgia

Tbilisi - Georgia

Tbilisi - Georgia

Tbilisi - Georgia

You can easily understand the strategic importance of a place like this. Its vector on the historic Silk Road enabled important trading from north, south, east and west. Sitting quite proudly at the junction of commerce, coupled with its own bounty of resources has formed a definitive amalgamation of cultures.

So, when I ask the question of where to start, I really mean, with a country as diverse, complex and in many ways, as fortunate a place it is, where in the world do you start? First perhaps, maybe the question of where Georgia resides. From my perspective, as a young boy staring down at the map of the world on my work desk, I would only see the words of the United Soviet Socialist Republic, with the big iconic hammer and sickle sticking out in my mind, and I would think - in my own ignorance - oh, that's just Russia.  NO HENRY, NO IT'S NOT - not by any stretch of the imagination.

Tbilisi - Georgia - view from Narikala fortress

Tbilisi - Georgia - view from Narikala fortress

Tbilisi - Georgia - view from Narikala fortress

Narikala fortress - Tbilisi - Georgia

Narikala fortress - Tbilisi - Georgia

Old Tbilisi - Georgia

From a purely geographical standpoint its said, by some, that Europe stretches as far as the Caucasus Mountains range and in that sense, Georgia is considered to be the Eastern frontier of Europe. For the people themselves, it seems obvious that they in themselves feel to be European far more than anything else and the diplomatic, economic and social ties that they have pull them squarely into that realm.

What I discovered about Georgia is that its beauty comes from the potent mix of cultures that have moulded the country for thousand of years. You only need to look at their alphabet and written word to see that there's nothing like it, and, that there's a whole load of beautiful in something so mysterious. I found absolute სილამაზე  (beauty) in the written word, a language that first appeared as an inscription in Palestine in 430AD and then shifted and shaped there after. Its all those influences that have acted to form something so entirely unique and unexpected in the fascinating city of Tbilisi.

Georgian flag

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Churchkhela – Brown rubbery truncheons made from strings of walnuts dipped in tatara and dried – this was quite often referred to as the ‘Georgian Snickers’.

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

I don't know what I was really expecting from Tbilisi, perhaps it was something more Arabic, more frenzied and ramshackled than the city I was introduced to. Lying on the banks of the Kura River, with a population of approximately 1.5 million, this is a city bounded on three sides by mountains and kinds of forms its own naturally large amphitheatre. In terms of architecture it has both a unique, and some would say uncanny way of mixing the old and the new, with commentators saying that in recent years Tbilisi has seen impressive structural development whilst at the same time bolstering its historical and cultural preservation. It's one of those cities that you get to realise in quite a hurry is truly flying under the radar of most tourists and travel guides. What I got to realising, that aside from the impressive vistas, this city is extremely cosmopolitan, that Georgian food is an absolute treat, the wine here is very good (in fact Georgians probably were the first to 'create wine'...and yes, you read that right), the nightlife is fantastic, the prices are excellent and the people are so friendly. Why Tbilisi hasn't made a Lonely Planet top 10 list to date just blows me away!!

Tbilisi is Inga's birthright. When I say that, it's that right of ownership that you associate from cultural heritage by descent. Our discovery of the city, a place that she had already been too previously, was on her, and I could see that there was a large degree of pride that she had in taking my around her father's city. That was pretty cool.

Some the highlights we took in were Narikala Fortress, a place that can be seen from any place in the city, as it stands proudly on a hill overlooking all and sundry. A fortress that was constructed for defence purposes in the 4th century now provides fantastic views out over Tbilisi for all those wanted to climb up, or, those who want to cheat and ride the funicular up to the top. Then there's Old Tbilisi, the picturesque old town with cobble stoned streets, the Art Nouveau buildings, the intricately designed and terraced master pieces were just a treat to see and truly inspiring. From an architectural perspective what the city has is considered to be a mix of Byzantine, Neoclassical, Art Nouveau, Middle Eastern & Soviet Modern - the latter unfortunately being the most bleak and stark, but the others, wow. Impressive in their style and presence, but cheated in some way by residing in a city/country that is still severely short of the needed funds to protect their wonderful heritage.

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Old Tbilisi - Georgia

The Bridge of Peace is a bow shaped pedestrian bridge constructed of glass and steel - beautifully illuminated at night with LED lights, it cross the Kura River and is a highlight of central Tbilisi - Georgia

Another cool thing about Tbilisi is its night time culture, or to utilise an overused phrase from the SMH, it's 'night time economy'. This is a place that makes use of the 24hrs that exist in the day and just because the light gets replaced by the dark doesn't mean that life itself needs to shut down.  On Shardeni street  in central Tbilisi there are bars and restaurants aplenty, many with glorious rooftops that will allow you to take in the view of Tbilisi by night, especially the wonderful Narkiala Fortress. 

Hard Rock Cafe - Tbilisi - Georgia

The Bridge of Peace - Tbilisi - Georgia

'Show me the LARI'

Hard Rock Cafe - Tbilisi - Georgia

Oh yeah, Shisha on Shardeni Street - Tbilisi - Georgia

Gabriadze Theatre - Tbilisi - Georgia

Again, this is where Tbilisi comes into its own once again as the options you have for food are just exceptional. With the likes of khinkali (twisted knobs of dough (dumplings) stuffed with meat and spices), khachapurri (a warm, gooey comfort food, cheese stuffed bread which can also be topped with egg), Badrijani (Roasted eggplant, served flat and topped with walnut paste), kebabs, shashlik, pkhali (a paste made from spinach, walnuts and garlic), lobio (a bean dish).............and then, once you get past that, the Georgian wine varietals, (Saperavi, Kindzmarauli, Tsinandali, Rkhatsiteli & Tvishi) amongst others, Georgia just becomes a phenomenal place to be for many, many reasons.

Then throw access to Shisha into that mix! BOOM - this was a freakin' wonderland.

Old Tbilisi - Georgia

Davis & Annija - in the time before they were a couple :)

Narikala Fortress from Old Tbilisi

Henry & Inga - from the time even before they were engaged (although, may I state - at this point I already knew where and when I'd be asking....)

Narikala Fortress from Old Tbilisi

Tbilisi - Georgia

Churchkhela  - The Georgian Snickers

My time in Tbilisi with Inga, her brother Davis and his now wife Annija, (who wasn't even his girlfriend at the time - although more on that story when I do my Batumi entry), was ALL just the best experience. The atmosphere, the group of travellers and the city itself was just the right mix of everything that you needed, or rather, everything I didn't know that I needed but was given anyway.

Sometimes travel can surprise you in the greatest if ways, and to you Tbilisi alll I can say is, 

'მშვენიერი ხარ'.

Istanbul (TURKEY) - an enhanced state of sensory sensitivity

Istanbul (Turkey)
08 September 2016

Fear is a psychological weapon that underlies any act of terrorism. It’s that fear, an anticipation of future acts of terror that pervades the consciousness. For the rationalists amongst us, Barrack Obama being one of them, the truism often expounded, that you're ‘more likely to suffer an incident in a car than be part of a terrorist incident’ belies the impact of a terroristic act. Indiscriminate, destructive, horrific, it’s the gravity of the event as well as the relatively high casualty rate in a one off incident that instils constant fear.

Somehow in my mind Europe had always been relatively safe but of late European placidity has become both a casualty and consequence of geopolitics and the rise of militant Islamic groups. Without wanting to discuss the rationality of terrorism, the pursuit of causes and objectives and the expected utility derived from acts of terror and compounding fear, I can say that my own awareness had become more than heightened just by living in Europe. Without even mentioning events in Istanbul, the November 2015 attacks in Paris, the Brussels airport attack in March 2016, the Nice truck attack in July 2016 & the Berlin attack in 2016, had all created that awareness and sense of hyper vigilance.

Arriving in Istanbul - Turkey

Arriving in Istanbul - Turkey

Istanbul itself was an altogether different prospect. There was discord amongst the people, blatant aggression against the incumbent government and an environment ripe for upheaval. Terrorism it seems tends to work far better in environments either in chaos or on the verge of it, and, when there is a distinct political goal.

I’d always wanted to see Istanbul and of course terrorism shouldn't be THE deterrent to prevent us from doing things, but of course there’s a tipping point. You wouldn’t go to Baghdad, Kabul or Mogadishu now would you? I of course have an issue about Obama’s comment, that the likelihood of being part of an incident is remote is also predicated on the act being a one off. So my question to that is, at what point does the frequency of activity act as a rational deterrent? At what point do I need to consider my well being as opposed to being dismissive,ignorant and be under the assumption that the attack will be an isolated one. The track record in Istanbul was already established, Blue Mosque attack 06 JAN 2015, Blue Mosque attack (II) 12 JAN 2016, Street bombing 19 MAR 2016, Sehzade attack 07 JUNE 2016,  Attaturk airport attack 28 JUNE 2016, Arena bombing 16 December 2016 &  the NYE nightclub attacks 01 JAN 2017.

Again, you have to ask the question, at what point should the frequency become the needed deterrent? Especially when the country itself has placed itself into a state-of-emergency after an attempted military coup in July 2016.

So, what to do?

The Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey

The Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey

The Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey

The Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey

Inga & I went, in a state of hyper-vigilance, which in itself is amusing, because what can you really do? And of course nothing happened but the tension in the city was palpable. There was a distinct security presence at the airport and in the city itself. Walking into the Grand Bazaar and being greeted by armed guards with machine guards, metal detectors, X-ray machines and roving patrols, it actually made me feel more secure than under siege. A false sense of security of course but I guess that’s the whole idea.

We only had a day, actually about 6 hours to discover parts of Istanbul, and I thought it was amazing. The Grand Bazaar, one of the oldest covered markets in the world, is both enormous and fascinating. It has 61 covered streets, over 4000 shops and attracts between 250,000-400,000 daily. Quite unbelievable.

 Istanbul - Turkey

 Istanbul - Turkey

 Istanbul - Turkey

 Istanbul - Turkey

The city itself, or rather, ‘the old part’ that we were walking around exists as a type of peninsula, bounded by the Marmara Sea to the south, the Bosphorus to the east and north. The ‘Golden Horn’ and the area of Faith, which is where we based ourselves for the afternoon was fantastic. Not the ‘Middle Eastern’ city that somehow I was expected but one with that type of feel. It has that ‘Middle Eastern’ attitude of talking with fervour, being menacing in one instant and then easy in the next, edging on being quarrelsome but at the same time hospitable. That for me was the expected attitude and was the enduring feel. The city however is modern, very clean and filled with culinary delights that would be the envy of many. Kebabs, Turkish delights, delectable food and shisha. Istanbul is an attraction, that I know, and our few hours this time around was confirmation enough that a longer return was absolutely needed in order to discover this enduring place of wonder!