Caye Caulker (Belize) - No shirt, no shoes...no problem

CAYE CAULKER (BELIZE)
21 February - 24 February 2017

And to think, Caye Caulker almost didn’t make our itinerary. It was in and out like a cheap highway diner in Nebraska, never truly making its presence felt, never delivering an overwhelming statement or value proposition as to why we needed to be there.  It stood like an outcast, a nobody within our mix of ‘must do’ places on our Central American escapade.

In the end Caye Caulker turned out to be the most unexpected and memorable stop that we made. On the back of Cayeans (or is it the Caulkans?) fundamental philosophy of life, ‘No shirt, no shoes…no problem’ and a relentless breeze that can sway your hammock into a Caribbean induced coma, we loosely played with the feelings of Caye Caulker and now that makes me feel slightly ashamed. I was un-learned, un-schooled in the ways of the Cayes, but now I have had  my life improved significantly.

Caye Caulker - Belize

La Cubana Hostel - Caye Caulker - Belize

Not a bad location for a hostel huh :)

One of the main streets on Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker - Belize

If the place is hammock ready then Inga loves it!

Caye Caulker - Belize

Sitting pretty some 35kms north-east of one of the most ordinary of world capitals, Belize City, Caye Caulker is a place where you’re greeted with a balmy breeze, palm trees, soft sand and low, bright multi-coloured buildings as you step off the main pier. It’s the epitome of reggae, just in Belize fashion. Lonely Planet says that the easy going nature is due in part to the strong Creole presence on the island, which pulses to the classic reggae beat, forming a more than suitable home to those translated Rastafarians.

Shoes are redundant here. Walking barefoot is almost obligatory and getting dressed up for the night means pulling out your best ‘flip flops’, or as Australians would put it, thongs. Golf carts transport new arrivals to their lodgings around the small town (and really, a car here would not even be a waste, it would be pure stupidity), there are no traffic lights, street signs or any real association a town of any real size. This is the ‘chill zone’ where island time is as serious as you want to make it. And there you have the beauty of Caye Caulker, a paradise without the massive crowds, without the high rises, with the beautiful calm water of the Caribbean and your beck & call. Bliss would be the classic understatement.

Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize

Take your pick

Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize

We didn’t have any accommodation booked on arrival but managed to quickly find the La Cubana hostel, located almost at the end of the pier for the San Pedro-Belize express ferry. A small, clean but occasionally inconvenient hostel, it was an ok place to stay, made bearable at night only by the presence of an air conditioner – which unfortunately we did not have for our first two evenings. Oh well, the small pains of paradise.

The Caye itself is 8kms long, split right in the middle by a little channel cut by cyclone Hattie in 1961. The ever present cut, known by all as “The Split” is at the northern end of the southern island of the Caye and provides a good swimming opportunity for all those revellers taking up a position at the fabulous Lazy Lizard bar for the day.

Caye Caulker - Belize

Out on the reef with a few stingrays - Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize

Par for the course - Smirnoffs at the ready

Caye Caulker - Belize

Walking around on sand all day, heading from bar to bar, i.e., Ana Genie, Bryce’s Beach BBQ, the Lazy Lizard, we could have been forgiven having our time occupied just by doing that…but no, we had the want and desire to do more, like watching the fabulous sunsets on the western side of the island each afternoon, taking some SUP’s out for an attempted circumnavigation which didn’t quite make the great and partaking in the cuisine which ended up being mostly quesadillas, pork and whatever else could wash that down, which as this point in time was Smirnoff Double Black Zero’s…and really, how good a place is it that you can just buy a bottle of alcohol, open it right in the shop and walk barefoot on the sand streets without a care in the world!?

Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize

Priorities

Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker, we love you!

Tikal (Guatemala) - At the waterhole

TIKAL (GUATEMALA)
20 February - 21 February 2017

We worked our way to Tikal via a half-day stop in Guatemala City and an overnight ride to Flores, a small town located on Lake Peten Itza.

Guatemala City - Guatemala

First port of call in Guatemala City, the bus stop of Transportes Fuente del Norte. A typical ramschakle style of bus station located in the 'do drop out' part of town, it was the part of the city that made you feel ill at ease. Logically looking back on it now that shouldn't have been the case but all the talk of Guatemala City being the burgeoning centre for both petty and violent crime had the desired impact on us of heightening levels of anxiety. The fact that we arrived during the day did assist with keeping us relatively calm. Still, with that said, being in one of the very few Central American Hard Rock cities,  we walked across town (about 4kms) and had ourselves dinner and drinks at the Guatemala City Hard Rock in Zone 10. A big, extravagant Hard Rock Cafe, there were about 5 people, 20 staff, and places for 200. Under utilised, over-expensed, it's probably no wonder that since our time there this location has closed down. RIP Hard Rock Cafe Guatemala City - thank you for a good time.

Hard Rock Cafe - Guatemala City - Guatemala

Hard Rock Cafe - Guatemala City - Guatemala

Opting not to walk back to Transportes Fuente del Norte we took the more assured version of a cab and waited around 90 minutes until our bus was scheduled to pull out just after midnight. Somewhere around 6am our bus pulled up outside a gas station on the outskirts of Flores (Guatemala), and we became part of what I like to call Central American mini-scam, Part II.

They have this scam thing down to an art form in Central America. On this occasion it was the '6am chaos and frenzy'  approach. Having just stopped at a service station in Santa Elena on came a rotund, pudgy Guatemalan man yelling out 'Tikal, Tikal, if you want to go today, you have to go now....Tikal, Tikal'. That was in fact the aim of Inga and I, we had not planned to stay in Flores at all, so we took the opportunity to get a free ride into town in a couple of minivans that were Gringo Ready.

So there we all were, the early birds standing outside the offices of Gran Jaguar dealing with our scam artist Enrique. This 'man of confidence' is reasonably well presented and speaks English quite well, so it made the initial dealings very easy and efficient. We ended up buying a park entry ticket into Tikal for that day, and also, one for the next day which was to included a guided early morning tour to temple 4. Now, to cut a long story short because I'd really like to talk about Tikal, our ticket did not in fact include entrance to the park for the full day. It was only a day ticket that would allow entrance after 3pm. Considering we got to the park entrance gates at 9:30am (20kms from the Tikal site itself), it meant a 5.5hr wait at the front gates for a bus at the designated entry time, or, paying full price for a full day entry on arrival. We elected to wait the 5.5hrs. Absurd to some but on principle we did not want to pay for more than we originally requested. Somehow we made the most of those hours even with just a handful of stores and a bar at our disposal.

KM 510 - Entrance to Tikal - Guatemala

KM 510 - Entrance to Tikal - Guatemala

The Marvel of Mayan Engineering - TIKAL

You’re going to be walking

You’re going to be climbing

You’re going to be sweating in Tikaaaaal

(quote from random guide on a random bus to Tikal)

To me Tikal is the most impressive site in this neck of the woods. More moody, mysterious and impressive than Teotihuacan and much more grand that the New World Wonder site of Chichen Itza, the site at Tikal is the ruin of what was an ancient city named Yux Matal.

Located in the rainforests of Guatemala, this city of 16kms square has a mystical type of presence, an atmosphere that lends itself to being something magical & esoteric. Once the possession of the great Mayan people, the city was founded in the period of approximately 2000BC and continued growing until 830AD when there was a sudden drop off.

Standing in front of Temple V - Tikal - Guatemala

Temple V - Tikal - Guatemala

Tikal - Guatemala

Tikal - Guatemala

Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala

Aside from Tikal being utilised as a location site for Yavin 4 in Star Wars, Episode IV, A New Hope, the true worth of this Classical period Mayan city are the structures. The architecture of this ancient city is built from limestone and includes the remains of temples that tower some 70 mtrs. With large royal palaces, smaller pyramids, administrative buildings & residences, what is visible to those visiting the site is an absolute treat.

The absolute highlight for me was Temple 5. Standing imperiously above the canopy of the jungle, majestic and regal,  the pyramid is known as a typical Peten-styled limestone stepped pyramid structure. Standing at 57mtrs in height it holds absolute command of its environment and punctuates how impressive it was for an ancient people to be able to construct something of just magnitude and heady audacity. I say audacious but perhaps it was just commitment and belief in their capability.

Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala

Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala

Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala

Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala

More remarkable on this site are those elements that are unseen, specifically a  ravine and water reservoir which then controlled the flow and distribution of water into a city which grew rapidly around this central requirement. Scientists have placed the construction of the main water system of Tikal at 370 AD and falling within the 18 year reign of the ruler Jaguar Paw the Great (Chak Tok Ich’aak 1). Without wanting to go further into this critical survival element, it’s also important to note that a palace structure in the Central Acropolis, has also been identified as either the house or the residential palace of the same ruler. Indeed, Temple 1 in Tikal, also known as Temple of the Great Jaguar, is another marvellous structural piece within this glorious ancient city.

Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala

Tikal  - Guatemala

Tikal  - Guatemala

Tikal  - Guatemala

It was easy to spend a full day at the site moving around to view each of the main pyramids. In many ways it reminded me of the Angkor Wat site in Cambodia, only on a much smaller scale. The capacity to move around comfortably and without the incessant hassle of all the unnecessary souvenir shops that act as a gaudy nuisance at Chichen Itza, Tikal was by far the most well preserved and interesting sites that we visited. It stands as a shining example of how places like these should be managed and looked after by locals, and not just for the sake of tourists but also in terms of establishing a sense of pride and honour in their own history and culture.

Tikal  - Guatemala

Tikal  - Guatemala

Yavin 4 in Star Wars, Episode IV, A New Hope

Inga and I stayed onsite for the night at a comfortable stop named the Jungle Lodge Hotel. Just off the main path that leads onto the Tikal site, it was a great place to relax for the night and recharge our batteries after a warm, sticky day out in the jungle.

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So to you Tikal I tip my hat, if I were wearing one. A true gem in a country that I had underestimated and who people I had unnecessarily feared. Of all the Central American countries we visited I’d say you surprised me the most. Guatemala, I’m impressed!

Lago de Atitlan (Guatemala) - Into the vortex

LAGO DE ATITLAN (GUATEMALA)
18 February - 19 February 2017

Mystically minded gringos talk about Lago de Atitlan as being one of the world's few vortex fields, alongside sites such as the Egyptian pyramids and Machu Picchu. Whilst its mostly the hippies that\ impart that sort of vibe into some corners of this spectacular point on the globe, you just can't go past the view for holding another style of mythical power just for being.

The vortex - within the vortex - Lago de Atitlan - Guatemala

How did they get out of this one?

Hemmed in on all sides by mountains and volcanoes, the statistics of the lake give the headline of 320mts deep, and 18kms by 12kms at its widest points. Picturesque, gorgeous and drawing comparisons to its European cousin, Lake Como, you'd have to say that under equivalent bouts of sunshine Lago de Atitlan might just stand atop the podium.

Lago de Atitlan - Guatemala

Lago de Atitlan - Guatemala

Lago de Atitlan - Guatemala

Inga and I rolled into the backpackers hive of San Pedro, located on the Western edge of the lake. A typical tourist style offering with bars and restaurants of varying quality, the town itself is about par for the course for what you'd expect around here. The lake and the views however are something totally different and well worth more than the day that we spent there. 

Lago de Atitlan - Guatemala

Lago de Atitlan - Guatemala

Lago de Atitlan - Guatemala

Our greatest accomplishment during our stay was doing a kayak out on the lake, which unfortunately coincided with an uninvited amount of grey skies, cold weather and the hint of drizzle.

Blended guacamole on a bed of unnaturally green 'something' - happy quesadilla time - Lago de Atitlan - Guatemala

Lago de Atitlan - Guatemala

It's unfortunate on our part that we didn't give Lago de Atitlan more of an opportunity in terms of hikes, circumnavigation, time on the lake and discovering the towns that hug its shore.

Pretty, appealing, engaging. This is a place where a return needs to happen for us, its just too good a place not to discover fully.

Antigua (Guatemala) - Finding the 'Melbourne of Central America'

ANTIGUA (GUATEMALA)
16 February - 18 February 2017

Guatemala imbued me with a sense of unease and fear. Inoculated with the biases of their ardent neighbours, the answer to the initial question of ‘where we’d be travelling next’, (Guatemala), would often be met with the response, ‘Cuidado, Guatemala es muy peligroso’. Admittedly this related more to the capital Guatemala city than anywhere else in the country, but you know what they say about mud, it sticks.

Arriving in Antigua after the dusk, we were in the ‘witching hours’. It’s the term I associate with arrival at a new destination when all things you believe to be sinister about a place are hidden in a cloak of darkness, just waiting to threaten and harm.

Antigua - Guatemala

Antigua - Guatemala

Antigua - Guatemala

Taco time! Getting close to Mexico, taking in a taco treat - Antigua - Guatemala

So what is Antigua really about?

Cobblestone lined streets, beautifully vibrant and coloured colonial buildings, ancient Spanish baroque style architecture whose unique character and charm has of course prompted this city to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Then, when you get to accepting the beauty of the city itself you discover a nightlife like no other we encountered in Central America. There’s a bar scene here that reminds me of both the quality and style of Melbourne, speakeasies that could be picked up and translated to any other capital in the world. Great restaurants and casual eateries. Here was yet another Central American surprise packet of gravity.

The bars in this town are seriously cool - speakEASAAAY - Antigua - Guatemala

Antigua - Guatemala

Antigua - Guatemala

Antigua - Guatemala

We have you surrounded

If this city were the main protagonist in a hold-up then it would be in trouble. This gorgeous little town is dwarfed by the main players in the landscape, Fuego, one of the most active volcanoes in Central America and constantly billowing smoke from days of internalised frustration can be viewed from a park at Cerro de La Cruz.  Fuego probably occupies a space in every second Instagram photo of this great city, but hey, you play to your strengths.

Antigua - Guatemala

Antigua - Guatemala

Antigua - Guatemala

The lesson learned

Biases, fear and anxiety, they’re constructs of the mind. Fear is what you allow yourself to feel. Inga and I have travelled all over the world and have probably been more fearful and at risk in our home environments than any foreign city we’ve been in. I believe more through good management and understanding we’ve not deliberately placed ourselves in situations where we could become victims. I think as a traveller once you become conscious of this is when you really can immerse yourself in a place and enjoy it.  It’s also the point in time that you discover that more the most part, ‘danger’ is just a relative concept.