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Saturday, February 25, 2017

Cancun (Mexico) - Not Spring break

CANCUN (MEXICO)
25 February - 28 February 2017

What people refer to as 'Cancun' is more likely the Hotel Zone that is the eastern frontier  of the town that lies on the Caribbean Sea. That part in itself, whilst not soul destroying, can in itself be disarming to travellers that may be made their way up through Central America or spent their time trouncing around the Yucatan. It's concrete, its glitz, its virtually Las Vegas on the Sea. To us, it was kind of cool in all honesty.


Chetumal - entry point into Mexico - with the slowest, most pedantic border officer we've ever encountered


In itself however Cancun is remarkable for an entirely other reason and it relates specifically to the resort area, known as the Hotel Zone, which didn't exist until the late 1960's. This was the time when the Mexican government had the bright idea of 'developing a resort area in order to diversify the economy'.  That's when T\they did their research, absorbed all the data that they had possible on climate, natural attractions and general vistas, then 'hey presto', step up Cancun, a 25kms barrier island with spare population, attractive beach and a great climate to match. Mexico had its own tourist show pony right on the Caribbean, 'just add water', so to speak.


Inga and I stayed in Central Cancun, which is unremarkable in its own unremarkable way. A typical town that is only saved by the fact that it's Mexican...and Mexican food is awesome, along side tequila, which when you mix with lemon juice gives you an automatic party!



Cancun - Mexico - build a wall

Playing up to those familiar 'jump' photos at the beach...why? Who knows why people do it!?
Cancun - Mexico

Cancun - Mexico

Hey, if I steal something then the least I can do is bust myself!
Cancun - Mexico

Air Elisher - Cancun - Mexico



Cancun for us served two purposes, the first, it was a cheap and easy way for us to get into Cuba. One short flight and we were there. The second was more an incidental but a happy one at that. Considering we were close to one of the New Wonders of the world (Chichen Itza), then jumping on a tour in the days that we had here was another item to put on the list.


Chichen Itza


Right off the bat, let me call it out, as I did with my entry on Tikal, Chichen Itza, whilst worth seeing, is in fact a major disappointment, and here's why.


Wherever the administrative obligation and cultural obligation for the site stands, wherever the the ownership for it resides, they have failed the Mexican (Mayan people). This magnificent site stands like a two-bit side show, a quasi carnivale of all things that are wrong with ancient cultural and architectural sites of major significance. The site, and let me be clear, the site is absolutely crap - the architecture and the magnificence of the structure is not.



Chichen Itza - Mexico

Chichen Itza - Mexico

Chichen Itza - Mexico

Chichen Itza - Mexico


The throngs of people attending automatically cheapen the value in the sense that they, as in 'us tourists', are not properly directed to allow for the place to be enjoyed be all. Additionally, how in the world that souvenir shops and touts can be onsite and for there to be such a proliferation of them simply detracts from the entire experience. It's poor, very poor on behalf of everyone. So where Tikal stood tall in terms of preservation and conservation of what they had, the Mexicans have failed so diabolically with Chichen Itza.



Chichen Itza - Mexico

Chichen Itza - Mexico

Chichen Itza - Mexico

Chichen Itza - Mexico

Chichen Itza - Mexico


El Castillo, The Temple of Kukulcan, is the dominant force here. It is a Mesoamerican step pyramid built by the pre-Columbian Mayan civilisation somewhere between the 9th and 12th century AD. Serving as a dedication to the feathered serpent deity, closely related to the God, Quetzalcoatl, it stands 30mtrs tall and is 55mtrs around its base. Impressive from an architectural standpoint certainly but when you compare it to Tikal and the much older Teotihuacan then you wonder what actually happened in terms of 'lobbying' to get this on the New World Wonder list. To me the more interesting aspect of the Chichen Itza site was the Great ball court. Measuring 165mtrs * 68 mtrs, it is the largest in Mesoamerica and are bounded by 12mtrs high walls that have rings carved with intertwining serpents in the centre of each wall. I'm not entirely sure how the game worked other than the fact that there were two teams, they had to get the ball through the rings and that the loser would not suffer the ignonimy of defeat, because, they needed to suffer the wrath of death first. And I'm not talking the Rugby League grand final style of 'life and death' being misused for purposes of showing some sort of courage in thinly veiled machismo. In this scene your death is real and this is captured spiritually in one panel which shows a headless player kneeling with blood shooting out of his neck, while another player holds his head - as they say on the streets, even in Chichen Itza, this shit is real!



Chichen Itza - Mexico

Chichen Itza - Mexico

Chichen Itza - Mexico


To me the much bigger highlight of the day was a visit to a local cenote after leaving the Chichen Itza site. For those that don't know, a cenote is a deep water filled sinkhole in limestone, created when the roof of an underground cavern collapses. This fills in when rain water couple with those from underground streams are captured and stored. The words itself, cenote, comes from the Mayan word dzonot, which means well.



Il Kil Cenote - Mexico

Mid-flight - Il Kil Cenote - Mexico


We went to the Il Kil cenote, which to me was a magnificent marvel. A 60mtrs deep cavernous hole, beautifully round at the top, and wonderfully blue when the sunlight hits it. It was an absolute pleasure to see this geographical feature but to also head down and have a swim. There are green vines that stretch all the way from the entrance at the top to the water below, and when you just sit there and admire its beauty, you can't help but things that there's something just a little magical about a place like this. Apparently the Yucatan is filled with places like this due to both its proliferation of limestone and underground water systems. A truly special site and we both felt better for the day having stopped there.


Tuesday, February 21, 2017

Caye Caulker (Belize) - No shirt, no shoes...no problem

CAYE CAULKER (BELIZE)
21 February - 24 February 2017

And to think, Caye Caulker almost didn’t make our itinerary. It was in and out like a cheap highway diner in Nebraska, never truly making its presence felt, never delivering an overwhelming statement or value proposition as to why we needed to be there.  It stood like an outcast, a nobody within our mix of ‘must do’ places on our Central American escapade.

In the end Caye Caulker turned out to be the most unexpected and memorable stop that we made. On the back of Cayeans (or is it the Caulkans?) fundamental philosophy of life, ‘No shirt, no shoes…no problem’ and a relentless breeze that can sway your hammock into a Caribbean induced coma, we loosely played with the feelings of Caye Caulker and now that makes me feel slightly ashamed. I was un-learned, un-schooled in the ways of the Cayes, but now I have had  my life improved significantly.


Caye Caulker - Belize

La Cubana Hostel - Caye Caulker - Belize
Not a bad location for a hostel huh :)

One of the main streets on Caye Caulker

Caye Caulker - Belize

If the place is hammock ready then Inga loves it!
Caye Caulker - Belize


Sitting pretty some 35kms north-east of one of the most ordinary of world capitals, Belize City, Caye Caulker is a place where you’re greeted with a balmy breeze, palm trees, soft sand and low, bright multi-coloured buildings as you step off the main pier. It’s the epitome of reggae, just in Belize fashion. Lonely Planet says that the easy going nature is due in part to the strong Creole presence on the island, which pulses to the classic reggae beat, forming a more than suitable home to those translated Rastafarians.

Shoes are redundant here. Walking barefoot is almost obligatory and getting dressed up for the night means pulling out your best ‘flip flops’, or as Australians would put it, thongs. Golf carts transport new arrivals to their lodgings around the small town (and really, a car here would not even be a waste, it would be pure stupidity), there are no traffic lights, street signs or any real association a town of any real size. This is the ‘chill zone’ where island time is as serious as you want to make it. And there you have the beauty of Caye Caulker, a paradise without the massive crowds, without the high rises, with the beautiful calm water of the Caribbean and your beck & call. Bliss would be the classic understatement.


Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize

Take your pick

Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize


We didn’t have any accommodation booked on arrival but managed to quickly find the La Cubana hostel, located almost at the end of the pier for the San Pedro-Belize express ferry. A small, clean but occasionally inconvenient hostel, it was an ok place to stay, made bearable at night only by the presence of an air conditioner – which unfortunately we did not have for our first two evenings. Oh well, the small pains of paradise.

The Caye itself is 8kms long, split right in the middle by a little channel cut by cyclone Hattie in 1961. The ever present cut, known by all as “The Split” is at the northern end of the southern island of the Caye and provides a good swimming opportunity for all those revellers taking up a position at the fabulous Lazy Lizard bar for the day.


Caye Caulker - Belize

Out on the reef with a few stingrays - Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize

Par for the course - Smirnoffs at the ready

Caye Caulker - Belize


Walking around on sand all day, heading from bar to bar, i.e., Ana Genie, Bryce’s Beach BBQ, the Lazy Lizard, we could have been forgiven having our time occupied just by doing that…but no, we had the want and desire to do more, like watching the fabulous sunsets on the western side of the island each afternoon, taking some SUP’s out for an attempted circumnavigation which didn’t quite make the great and partaking in the cuisine which ended up being mostly quesadillas, pork and whatever else could wash that down, which as this point in time was Smirnoff Double Black Zero’s…and really, how good a place is it that you can just buy a bottle of alcohol, open it right in the shop and walk barefoot on the sand streets without a care in the world!?


Caye Caulker - Belize

Caye Caulker - Belize

Priorities

Caye Caulker - Belize


Caye Caulker, we love you!

Monday, February 20, 2017

Tikal (Guatemala) - At the waterhole

TIKAL (GUATEMALA)
20 February - 21 February 2017

We worked our way to Tikal via a half-day stop in Guatemala City and an overnight ride to Flores, a small town located on Lake Peten Itza.


Guatemala City - Guatemala


First port of call in Guatemala City, the bus stop of Transportes Fuente del Norte. A typical ramschakle style of bus station located in the 'do drop out' part of town, it was the part of the city that made you feel ill at ease. Logically looking back on it now that shouldn't have been the case but all the talk of Guatemala City being the burgeoning centre for both petty and violent crime had the desired impact on us of heightening levels of anxiety. The fact that we arrived during the day did assist with keeping us relatively calm. Still, with that said, being in one of the very few Central American Hard Rock cities,  we walked across town (about 4kms) and had ourselves dinner and drinks at the Guatemala City Hard Rock in Zone 10. A big, extravagant Hard Rock Cafe, there were about 5 people, 20 staff, and places for 200. Under utilised, over-expensed, it's probably no wonder that since our time there this location has closed down. RIP Hard Rock Cafe Guatemala City - thank you for a good time.


Hard Rock Cafe - Guatemala City - Guatemala

Hard Rock Cafe - Guatemala City - Guatemala


Opting not to walk back to Transportes Fuente del Norte we took the more assured version of a cab and waited around 90 minutes until our bus was scheduled to pull out just after midnight. Somewhere around 6am our bus pulled up outside a gas station on the outskirts of Flores (Guatemala), and we became part of what I like to call Central American mini-scam, Part II.

They have this scam thing down to an art form in Central America. On this occasion it was the '6am chaos and frenzy'  approach. Having just stopped at a service station in Santa Elena on came a rotund, pudgy Guatemalan man yelling out 'Tikal, Tikal, if you want to go today, you have to go now....Tikal, Tikal'. That was in fact the aim of Inga and I, we had not planned to stay in Flores at all, so we took the opportunity to get a free ride into town in a couple of minivans that were Gringo Ready.


So there we all were, the early birds standing outside the offices of Gran Jaguar dealing with our scam artist Enrique. This 'man of confidence' is reasonably well presented and speaks English quite well, so it made the initial dealings very easy and efficient. We ended up buying a park entry ticket into Tikal for that day, and also, one for the next day which was to included a guided early morning tour to temple 4. Now, to cut a long story short because I'd really like to talk about Tikal, our ticket did not in fact include entrance to the park for the full day. It was only a day ticket that would allow entrance after 3pm. Considering we got to the park entrance gates at 9:30am (20kms from the Tikal site itself), it meant a 5.5hr wait at the front gates for a bus at the designated entry time, or, paying full price for a full day entry on arrival. We elected to wait the 5.5hrs. Absurd to some but on principle we did not want to pay for more than we originally requested. Somehow we made the most of those hours even with just a handful of stores and a bar at our disposal.



KM 510 - Entrance to Tikal - Guatemala


KM 510 - Entrance to Tikal - Guatemala


The Marvel of Mayan Engineering - TIKAL



You’re going to be walking
You’re going to be climbing
You’re going to be sweating in Tikaaaaal

(quote from random guide on a random bus to Tikal)

To me Tikal is the most impressive site in this neck of the woods. More moody, mysterious and impressive than Teotihuacan and much more grand that the New World Wonder site of Chichen Itza, the site at Tikal is the ruin of what was an ancient city named Yux Matal.

Located in the rainforests of Guatemala, this city of 16kms square has a mystical type of presence, an atmosphere that lends itself to being something magical & esoteric. Once the possession of the great Mayan people, the city was founded in the period of approximately 2000BC and continued growing until 830AD when there was a sudden drop off.


Standing in front of Temple V - Tikal - Guatemala


Temple V - Tikal - Guatemala


Tikal - Guatemala

Tikal - Guatemala

Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala


Aside from Tikal being utilised as a location site for Yavin 4 in Star Wars, Episode IV, A New Hope, the true worth of this Classical period Mayan city are the structures. The architecture of this ancient city is built from limestone and includes the remains of temples that tower some 70 mtrs. With large royal palaces, smaller pyramids, administrative buildings & residences, what is visible to those visiting the site is an absolute treat.

The absolute highlight for me was Temple 5. Standing imperiously above the canopy of the jungle, majestic and regal,  the pyramid is known as a typical Peten-styled limestone stepped pyramid structure. Standing at 57mtrs in height it holds absolute command of its environment and punctuates how impressive it was for an ancient people to be able to construct something of just magnitude and heady audacity. I say audacious but perhaps it was just commitment and belief in their capability.


Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala

Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala

Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala


Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala


More remarkable on this site are those elements that are unseen, specifically a  ravine and water reservoir which then controlled the flow and distribution of water into a city which grew rapidly around this central requirement. Scientists have placed the construction of the main water system of Tikal at 370 AD and falling within the 18 year reign of the ruler Jaguar Paw the Great (Chak Tok Ich’aak 1). Without wanting to go further into this critical survival element, it’s also important to note that a palace structure in the Central Acropolis, has also been identified as either the house or the residential palace of the same ruler. Indeed, Temple 1 in Tikal, also known as Temple of the Great Jaguar, is another marvellous structural piece within this glorious ancient city.


Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala

Tikal  - Guatemala


Tikal  - Guatemala

Tikal  - Guatemala


It was easy to spend a full day at the site moving around to view each of the main pyramids. In many ways it reminded me of the Angkor Wat site in Cambodia, only on a much smaller scale. The capacity to move around comfortably and without the incessant hassle of all the unnecessary souvenir shops that act as a gaudy nuisance at Chichen Itza, Tikal was by far the most well preserved and interesting sites that we visited. It stands as a shining example of how places like these should be managed and looked after by locals, and not just for the sake of tourists but also in terms of establishing a sense of pride and honour in their own history and culture.


Tikal  - Guatemala

Tikal  - Guatemala

Yavin 4 in Star Wars, Episode IV, A New Hope



Inga and I stayed onsite for the night at a comfortable stop named the Jungle Lodge Hotel. Just off the main path that leads onto the Tikal site, it was a great place to relax for the night and recharge our batteries after a warm, sticky day out in the jungle.

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So to you Tikal I tip my hat, if I were wearing one. A true gem in a country that I had underestimated and who people I had unnecessarily feared. Of all the Central American countries we visited I’d say you surprised me the most. Guatemala, I’m impressed!