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Saturday, October 28, 2017

Belfast (Northern Ireland) - The Troubles



BELFAST (Northern Ireland)
28 October 2017

The Troubles was an ethno-nationalist conflict in Northern Ireland during the late 20th century. Also known as the Northern Ireland conflict, it was primarily a political and nationalistic conflict, fuelled by historic events.

Growing up in Australia names such as Sinn Fein and the IRA were all too well known with bombings, murders and other atrocities making in as headline news fairly regularly.


Belfast - Northern Ireland

Belfast - Northern Ireland

Belfast - Northern Ireland


My understanding of the conflict, as basic as I could understand it as a kid was a movement to end discrimination against the Catholic minority from the Protestant, unionist government. Of course my understanding severely undermines the actual complexity, volatility and gross violence of the conflict. So I don’t pretend to know anything about anything other than the headline news. Still, considering we were in Ireland and Belfast, Northern Ireland was not that far a drive away, I wanted to go and see some of the Peace Lines  that acted as real of separation between predominantly Republican & Catholic neighbourhoods from Loyalist and Unionist Protestant neighbourhoods.

I find the idea of building such overt and crass structures for political reasons to be both absurd and antagonistic. Such a tangible, observable display of a schism has got to undermine any process of reconciliation by its sheer magnitude. It becomes part of the conscious psyche, the real split only goes to consolidate the bitterness of the feud no matter the action status. As a powerful symbol of divisiveness it certainly it certainly scores points.
The plan by the Northern Ireland Executive has committed to the removal of all peace lines by mutual consent by 2023. It will be interesting to see if this time frame is adhered to.


Belfast - Northern Ireland

Belfast - Northern Ireland

Belfast - Northern Ireland

Belfast - Northern Ireland


Seeing them for myself its hard to believe that they actually exist. There’s a heaviness to the atmosphere here, it’s almost palpable. They may be very crude constructs but the purpose they serve magnifies the conflict and hatred that they represent.


The Dark Hedges - Ballymoney - Northern Ireland
If you're a Game of Thrones fan then apparently you'll 'just know'

The Dark Hedges - Ballymoney - Northern Ireland

The Dark Hedges - Ballymoney - Northern Ireland


We also spent about an hour or two in Belfast, enough to have a quick walk around, pick up an odd souvenir and have a drink. Not enough for us to make any real assessment of the place but Lonely Planet named Belfast and the Causeway Coast together as the best place to visit in 2018, so it looks like we were ahead of the game in that sense.


The Giant's Causeway - County Antrim - Northern Ireland

The Giant's Causeway - County Antrim - Northern Ireland

The Giant's Causeway - County Antrim - Northern Ireland


In our day incursion into Northern Ireland we did also make it to the Giant’s Causeway on what was a windy, cold and rainy afternoon. The Causeway itself is an area of about 40,000 interlocking basalt columns formed as a result of an ancient volcanic fissure eruption. Certainly an impressive site on a nice day, on a cold day like the one we encountered it was more of an act of will to go and see it.


The Giant's Causeway - County Antrim - Northern Ireland

The Giant's Causeway - County Antrim - Northern Ireland


Like the rest of Ireland, the Northern part has a lush greenness about it. It’s the type of picturesque view that you quite often associate with any stories and movies that dedicate anytime to showcasing Ireland. Again, on a sunny day you could almost fall for the emerald green in this part of the world…almost.

Thursday, October 26, 2017

Dublin (Ireland) - It's not even just about 'The Hype'

DUBLIN (Ireland)
26 October - 29 October 2017


When I think about it, living in the western suburbs of Sydney and going to Catholic schools, my association with the Irish was inevitable. It would have been hard to have got by me considering that six (6) of my formative years were spent at Patrician Brothers Blacktown, although as we're now all too aware, the 'fiddly' deeds of the brothers have now been discovered some 30+ years after the fact. Aside from that, we had a lot of Irish in our community, there were Irish bars aplenty around Blacktown (The Mean Fiddler amongst the good ones (then) and of course I grew up with an absolute passion for U2.

They always seemed to be good natured folk, quick witted, ready to laugh, ready to chat, always with a story and to belt out a tune. With a little bit of gloss from a Guinness however their good nature can also fuel their desire for a bit of a punch up if their mood takes them that way.

The Hard Rock Cafe - Dublin - Ireland

Of course another bar
This was on the whiskey tour that we did on our first night

The well known Temple Bar - in Temple Bar - Dublin - Ireland

Dublin - Ireland


Dublin was a city that both Inga and I wanted to visit. I think that we were guided by the impression set by the people, by the bars we've visited and generally the great stories that we've heard from others than have visited.

...What we found out however is that all those ideas and impressions formulate a large part of the unknown puzzle, but Dublin itself, well, there's a little bit more to it than just that.

No prizes for guessing

Love it when 'Whiskey' is spelt properly
Another Whiskey Bar - Dublin - Ireland

If you get sick of Whiskey then have a Guinness
Dublin - Ireland

Outside the Temple Bar - Temple Bar - Ireland


Dynamic, entertaining, buzzy and beguiling. That was our impression of Dublin. Good nature, good cheer and the nightlife, well, just unbelievably cool. For some reason I'd also thought that Dublin might be a little bit run down, a little dishevelled but that was far from the case. It was actually quite an attractive and engaging city to be in. So alongside its historic buildings such as the cathedrals, churches, Georgian squares and town houses, castles and pubs, there's also some cool restaurants, hotels, boutique stores and bars. It was that vibrancy that we found so engaging and just made Dublin a cool place to be in.

The Irish R&R Experience - Dublin - Ireland

The Irish R&R Experience - Dublin - Ireland

The Temple Bar...again

It's like...can you go wrong?
No, no you can't - Temple Bar - Temple Bar - Dublin - Ireland

Shall we have another? But of course
Temple Bar - Temple Bar - Dublin - Ireland


We thoroughly enjoyed our time there and in many ways didn't give ourselves enough time to fully enjoy it. Without question, a place for us to return to in the future.


Saturday, October 21, 2017

Lisbon (Portugal) - Mass tourism, cool geography

Lisbon (Portugal)
21 October – 26 October 2017

There’s a lot to love about Lisbon. There’s a charm, elegance and a type of ‘time has forgotten’ type of feel to some its parts, then there’s the bold and modern challengers attempting to make their own statements as to the future of the city.  For me, it’s the city centre and the warren of streets around Alfama, sited below the imperious and impressive Castelo de Sao Jorge, that makes this town what it is. Couple that with Barrio Alto which feels like the centre of the universe for bars and restaurants and Baixa which acts as the connector between these wonderful areas, and my, you have the makings of a mighty fine city full of beauty, beguiling charm and some other intangible quality that lets you breath it in fully.


Baixa - Lisbon - Portugal

Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

View over Baixa to Alfalma and Castelo De Sao Jorge - Lisbon - Portugal


For me personally, I love Alfalma, a labyrinth and maze of narrow streets that seems to wrap around the base of the hill where Castelo de Sao Jorge resides. It’s atmospheric and contains a part of Lisbon that in many ways is now the ‘oddity’ of the city rather than what’s common place, but in that sense, that’s the way cities are these days, those older, more genuine, authentic areas are no longer that, they’re relics that are preserved for tourists and as such are become parodies of their former, younger selves.

We occupied a room in a lovely boutique hotel on the border of Baixa and Barrio Alto. Perfectly located and quite handy for the view out to the Tagus, which to me, always seems to be reflecting the sun like glass back into the city and lighting it up in that typically Iberian way.


Elevador de Santa Justa - Baixa - Lisbon - Portugal

Lisbon - Portugal

View of Lisbon from near Castelo De Sao Jorge - Lisbon - Portugal

View of Lisbon from near Castelo De Sao Jorge - Lisbon - Portugal

Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

We had this Jeep for our tour of Lisbon

Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

The Magical Mystery, now into its third city, was not just about arriving at destinations, we had plans to. Quite a few of them. From food tours, to city tours, to a night of Fado, we were able to get a look and feel of Lisbon from a number of angles and enjoyed the culinary delights, of which there are absolutely plenty.

Pastel de nata, I mean how good are these. Portuguese custard tarts in egg pastry, dusted with cinnamon. Delightful, moreish and just too difficult to resist. Then there’s the Bolinhos de bacalau, made from a mixture of potato & codfish, deep fried and absolutely exquisite. My own favourite and the king of discoveries which came from our first foodie tour was Bacalhau a Bras,  a dish made from shreds of salted cod, onions and thinly sliced potatoes, all bound up in scrambled eggs! This literally was THE BEST, I absolutely loved it. It’s said that the dish was to have originated in Barrio Alto, which is not so hard to believe considering this area is your major hub for all activities nocturnal.


Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

Torre de Belem - Belem - Lisbon - Portugal

Pastel de Nata - Lisbon - Portugal

Baixa - Lisbon - Portugal

Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

On another one of our foodie tours we crossed the Targus to an area named Ginjal and spent some time at a typical restaurant by the name of Farol. It was there we were introduced to Vinho Verde (Green Wine). This is white wine that originates from the historic northern province of Minho. These wines are delightful, fresh, fruity and floral, and somehow just serves as the perfect accompaniment to Portuguese food.





Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

ABSOLUTELY

Hard Rock Cafe - Lisbon - Portugal

Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

Outside of Lisbon itself we did take the time to make to the village of Sintra, known for its 19th Century Romanticist architecture, historic estates, villas and of course numerous royal palaces. The most well known being the Pena Palace, of the same architectural style, the castle itself occupies a hill above the town of Sintra and has unbelievable views all the way out to the Atlantic Coast. Apparently its said that on a clear day it  can be seen from Lisbon some 30kms away, considering its colour scheme I’d say that I’m not entirely surprised. The build is actually an intentional mix of a variety of styles, Neo-Gothic, Neo-Islamic, Neo-Renaissance, and also has references to other historical and significant buildings in Lisbon, such as the Belem tower, which itself if a 16th century fortification and occupies pride of place on the Targus, in Belem of course.


National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal

National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal

                                            National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal


National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal

National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal

National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal

The most westerly point in Europe - Cabo da Roca - Portugal

Cascais - Portugal

Cabo da Roca - Portugal


Now, Lisbon isn’t just ALL GOOD, it has its problems, and it appears, it has its problems with people like me directly. They are, along with Venice  & Barcelona, one of the cities pushing back against mass tourism. Damage to residents’ culture, heritage and day-to-day lives is becoming a substantial issue. Being the victim of your own popularity is of course detrimental to those that need to work, live and play in the space every day.


Alfalma - 'Mass Tourism Kills Lisbon'
Apologies, we are killing you softly

Tram 28 Lisbon - such a scenic run
But look for yourself, all tourists...

Baixa/Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal


Responsible tourism is now ‘a thing’ and the need to factor in sustainability for the sake of these cherished locations is a must. And to an extent I get that. Go to Venice, Dubrovnik or the Vatican on any day of the week and your involvement is nothing more than standing in an endless queue that progresses slowly around the location you’re visiting. High season in places like these are brutal…absolutely brutal, so truly, God help the population that live it day in and day out.

I don’t know what answers Lisbon will conjure up in its search for balance, all that I know is that we’ll be back, if in fact we’re welcome.