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Tuesday, September 3, 2019

Barcelona (Spain) - Under the Iberian sun

Barcelona (Spain)

03 September - 06 September 2019

It’s quite easy to fall for the charms of Barcelona. Sun-drenched beaches, the deep blue Mediterranean sea in its front yard, stunning architecture, a magnificent culinary landscape and outstanding bar culture – distilled influences of other global centres inhabiting hidden corners of alleyways and secret squares. Vibrant, dynamic and lively. A 24 hour city who is equally as comfortable under the rays of a beating sun as it is with guidance of dimmed moonlight. It has everything you want from a European city, as well as being Spanish (…sort of…but lets not get into the independence debate).

Barri Gotic - Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic - Barcelona - Spain

Las Ramblas - Barcelona - Spain

This is heaven

Mercado de La Boqueria - Barcelona - Spain

Casa Battlo - Barcelona - Spain

Casa Battlo - Barcelona - Spain

Casa Battlo - Barcelona - Spain

It’s always pleasing to come to Barcelona. If feels like a city that’s on perpetual vacation and the atmosphere of the city doesn’t do anything to dispel that myth from any of its visitors.

On this occasion with Inga’s family and a little 6 month in tow, access to many of the things that I love about this city had to be tempered. Not that I’m complaining but it does shut down a lot about the late-night culture that makes this part of the world so quintessentially Iberian. Afternoon siestas, late night dinners, late night drinking, bar hopping and having the early morning sun guide you home. There’s something liberating about having such a great time that the sunshine demands your attention as it casts aside the veil of nighttime inhibition.

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

Barcelona wasn’t born with a gold shoreline. The dearth of anything resembling the beautiful carefree spot of Barceloneta and accompanying beaches heading north on the shoreline was something of a black spot prior to the 1992 Olympics. The area had in fact been quite the neglected corner of this one city. Having turned its back on the pot of gold that standing at its doorstep it took the impetus of global focus to inspire the transformation which activated a change that would add a new, inspirational dimension to this city. So with all that said, it was quite easy to identify where three Latvians would spend their daylight hours in this town. Being Australian and quite sensitive to the dangers of anything UV related, 1.5 Australians spent their time in the relative safety of shaded bars supported by various concoctions of alcohol that obviously substituted the fear of sun damage for an equally damaging vice.

Plaza de San Felipe Neri - Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

M10  Montcada Hotel - Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain



Barcelona - Spain


How good does that look


The little guy - Barcelona - Spain

Our time in Barcelona whilst different to what I’ve usually been accustomed to was still full of most things that you’d expect out of a visit. Visits to Gaudi inspired buildings, gawking at the fabulous wares in markets, judging the various types of sangria on offer and tapping into the plethora of tapas that that accost your senses.

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

Hard Rock Cafe
Hard Rock Cafe - Barcelona - Spain

Barcelona is one of the great cities of Europe, that is undeniable. I’m already looking forward to our next visit.

Monday, September 2, 2019

Granada (Spain) - The Alhambra - Generalife

Granada (Spain)

02 September 2019

The Alhambra is an ode to Moorish architecture and culture, set amongst the pensive Sierra Nevada mountains. This place has gone through various incantations, casting its magical charm on all those that have gazed upon it and wondered through its halls of intricacy & artistry. I often wonder as to how majestic places such as these, along their historical timeline, seem as some point to simply vanish from existence. Take for example Angkor Wat & Machu Picchu, both marvels that simply vanished,  lost to the world for centuries before being rediscovered. So too the Alhambra. Having fallen into disrepair over centuries, the building for one period of time was even occupied by squatters. It’s unfathomable to even consider that as a possibility for a residence of such heritage and splendour.

The drive from Malaga (Spain) to the Alhambra in Granada (Spain)


                                            Map of the Alhambra - Granada - Spain

The origins of the Alhambra, whose name derives from the Arabic, al-qala’a al-hamra (the Red Castle), is mired in mystery. Some of its earliest references point to the construction of a small Roman fortress, approximately 900CE, but some of its buildings are understood to even pre-date that time frame. Having fallen into disrepair once again (well, actually for the first time, but the second occasion in this story), it was the Emirate of Granada that built the current palace and its walls of intricate beauty.


                                                    Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Generalife- Granada - Andalusia - Spain


The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain


The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain


Having fallen in love with Spain many years ago I had never made it further south than Madrid. I can’t answer right now as to why that’s been the case, shouldn’t Andalusia have been a mighty draw card? Yes, of course. Even on this occasion, the little tid-bit of time that we spent in this culturally rich part of Spain has only been enough to wet the appetite and sponsor further daydreams of fabulous Andalusian culture, cuisine and geography. With that said, the one deal-breaker I had on our travails through Andalusia was to see the Alhambra. If we couldn’t see it, then hell, I didn’t want to step foot in Southern Spain at all (not entirely true of course).

Only a short 120+ km drive out of Malaga, the total drive time to Granada was just on 90 mins. Extremely easy, great freeways and direct. We had booked in for a 3hr guided walking tour at 9am, and having left Malaga at a little after 7:30am, had arrived pretty settled in the car park right on our starting time.

Generalife - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

Generalife - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

Granada - Andalusia - Spain

At this time of year the Southern part of Spain can heat up like a pinata party at a Mexican quinceanera, you just can’t be assured as to where the fevered hits will come from. Also with a 6-month old we needed as tactical as possible with regards to our movements. Thankfully we were blessed with a reasonably mild morning and a baby that felt this site was well worth skipping. As Aiden slept we made our way through the Generalife, a Summer estate for the Sultan, featuring elegant rectangular plots with subtle water features, fragrant gardens, glorious trees casting shade and an immaculate view over the town and to the mountains beyond. The only problem I saw with the whole ‘set-up’ is that the Sultan’s Summer Residence is about 5-10 mins walk from the main palace. Imagine putting the question to the Sultan each year;

 ‘Well Your Majesty, do you have any plans for the Summer?

‘What do you think Khalil, I’m heading off just over there, AGAIN. Why didn’t I think to build my Summer hang out somewhere else? Oh yes, I know it’s soooo convenient, but hell, I never get to see or doing anything, it’s like being in a Melbourne lock down, Ellen DeGeneres style, you feeling me Khalil?’

Not entirely Your Majesty, Aisha and I live in a small hut with our goats and chickens all year round’

‘Aha, so you get it, am I right Khalil!’

‘Yes your Majesty, you are an insightful G’

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Palacio Nazaries was of course stunning. Divided into three main areas, Mexuar, Serallo and the Harem, each has its own identity, some parts with highly decorative ceilings, extremely intricate woodwork on the walls, particular plastering and paint schemes, the whole site is more than just impressive. It’s an enduring vestige of Muslim art and culture in this area that has preserved through a myriad of contra periods. For this reason it remains as one of Spain’s major tourist attractions as it exhibits the country’s most significant and well known Islamic architecture in impeccable condition. From a personal point of view, I feel more than privileged to have been able to walk through the grounds and experience the entire setting, even for a relatively brief period of time. I could well understand how our guide, a Dr, wrote their thesis on the architecture of the Alhambra and has dedicated their life to its ongoing discovery and the tales of its wonders.


The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

Aiden & Inga - The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

Aiden, Inga & Zaiga - The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

Thank you, Andalusia. You are an area of rugged beauty and architectural splendour. When the doors to your world re-opens I’ll certainly be one of the first to walk back through them.


Sunday, September 1, 2019

Ronda (Spain) - Malaga (Spain) - Golden arches and not a McDonalds in sight

Seville (Spain) to Malaga (Spain) via Ronda (Spain)

01 September 2019

El Tajo gorge and the dramatic Puente Nuevo which frames nearly every photo that you’ve ever seen of the charming town of Ronda, that’s what I wanted to see too.

All those months ago when I had mentally traced our path of transit between Sevilla and Malaga, I made sure that the way-point involved a moment in this Andalusian gem. With its position of power at the top of the Tajo gorge, standing astride the Guadalevin river, some 100mtrs below, the breathtaking arches look almost surreal, acting as the conduit between two sides of a brawny town that look to be precariously positioned on either side.


Driving out of Sevilla we were packed to the hilt. Five adults, a six month old, luggage for days and a car a little to small for its full requirements, somehow we contorted ourselves and stacked our travel cases in just the right way to be able to get going.

Ronda - Andalusia - Spain


Ronda - Andalusia - Spain

Having driven through Spain several times previously I was already aware as to what to expect of the countryside. In the south of Spain, the rolling hills, scorched earth and blue sky give the impression of a somewhat rugged, tough environment that wouldn’t have much to offer. Which in part may be the case, until such time you make your arrival in Ronda.

Like many well loved sites in Europe, the tourist buses, vehicles and an all sorts of nationalities dominate the streets of the town. Yet another European diamond that is being run into the ground by its weight of popularity. I understand that I don’t have the right to complain, as I’m also part of the current problem, but, there needs to be something done when places like this become overwhelmed. They simply aren’t built to handle what they’re currently putting up with, putting a strain on residents and visitors alike. With that said, the town is beautiful.

Ronda - Andalusia - Spain

Ronda - Andalusia - Spain

Ronda - Andalusia - Spain

We had arrived around lunchtime and thus found a beautiful spot by Puente Nuevo to take in the stunning views of the gorge and the iconic bridge. It’s a funny thing to experience something in reality after you’ve stared at that very same thing so many times in photos online. There’s something quite visceral and satisfying when you realise one of your bucket list items. Something that I’ve had the good fortune to do quite frequently over the last 10-15 yrs. 

Malagueta Beach - Malaga - Andalusia - Spain

Malagueta Beach - Malaga - Andalusia - Spain



Malaga - Andalusia - Spain

The final part of the day saw us make our way from Ronda to Malaga.

We had rented a great little apartment right on the port in Malaga, a very short stroll from Playa la Malagueta.

Hard Rock Cafe - Malaga - Spain

Hard Rock Cafe - Malaga - Spain

Malaga - Andalusia - Spain

Our afternoon was spent down on the beach, giving Aiden is first toe dip in the Mediterranean and allowing the northern ladies to capture their requisite dosage of vitamin D, which seems to be something that’s just built into their genes. Being from Australia I’ve my view, like that of many others of my age, has always been to treat the sun with extreme caution. Laying out on a sunbed and absorbing rays UV rays is always associated with risk. It’s not my jam at all. But hey, when your days are cloudy, bleak and cold for much of the year, the desire is obvious.

 


Saturday, August 31, 2019

Cadiz (Spain) - Jerez de la Frontera (Spain) - Gadir

Cadiz (Spain) - Jerez de la Frontera (Spain)

31 August 2019

Cadiz, the province and city on Spain’s south western edge is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe. Constantly overlooked and often forgotten by the glistening prizes within Spain and in countries further afield, is stands proudly looking out onto the Atlantic Ocean.

We drove south of Sevilla a couple of hours to get the feel of another Andalusian city, and in one sense, were not disappointed by what the Old Town delivered, narrow streets, the antiquity of its old quarters, white washed Gothic and Baroque styling.

Cadiz - Andalusia - Spain

Cadiz - Andalusia - Spain

The Southern Spanish sun sparkled and bounced off every façade, so much so that without sunglasses you would have spent the whole time squinting your way through the town.

Somehow for me it was unremarkable. Perhaps I didn’t give it the time or respect that it deserved. Perhaps its secrets will be discovered another day.

Cadiz - Andalusia - Spain

Cadiz - Andalusia - Spain

Cadiz - Andalusia - Spain

Cadiz - Andalusia - Spain

A short drive from Cadiz, Jerez de la Frontera captured our attention captured our interested by the very nature of its most well-known product, sherry. However, driving into the town in early afternoon it felt as though COVID-19 has come to this little corner of the world a year early. Not a soul on the deserted streets, not a stray dog to be seen, not a bird in the sky. Siesta time in these parts of Andalusia are more than just theoretical notions, they’re standard operating procedure.

Jerez de la Frontera - Andalusia - Spain

Jerez de la Frontera - Andalusia - Spain


Jerez de la Frontera - Andalusia - Spain

Attractive in part, understated and quaint. A viable stop for to partake in the gold standard of the area.

In all, somewhat of an underwhelming day, but sometimes you just need to hit the reset button