Granada (Spain)
02 September 2019
The Alhambra is an
ode to Moorish architecture and culture, set amongst the pensive Sierra Nevada
mountains. This place has gone through various incantations, casting its
magical charm on all those that have gazed upon it and wondered through its
halls of intricacy & artistry. I often wonder as to how majestic places
such as these, along their historical timeline, seem as some point to simply
vanish from existence. Take for example Angkor Wat & Machu Picchu, both
marvels that simply vanished, lost to
the world for centuries before being rediscovered. So too the Alhambra. Having
fallen into disrepair over centuries, the building for one period of time was
even occupied by squatters. It’s unfathomable to even consider that as a
possibility for a residence of such heritage and splendour.
The drive from Malaga (Spain) to the Alhambra in Granada (Spain)
Map of the Alhambra - Granada - Spain
The origins of the
Alhambra, whose name derives from the Arabic, al-qala’a al-hamra (the Red Castle), is mired in mystery. Some of its
earliest references point to the construction of a small Roman fortress,
approximately 900CE, but some of its buildings are understood to even pre-date
that time frame. Having fallen into disrepair once again (well, actually for the
first time, but the second occasion in this story), it was the Emirate of
Granada that built the current palace and its walls of intricate beauty.
Granada - Andalusia - SpainThe Alhambra - Generalife- Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
Having fallen in
love with Spain many years ago I had never made it further south than Madrid. I
can’t answer right now as to why that’s been the case, shouldn’t Andalusia have
been a mighty draw card? Yes, of course. Even on this occasion, the little
tid-bit of time that we spent in this culturally rich part of Spain has only
been enough to wet the appetite and sponsor further daydreams of fabulous
Andalusian culture, cuisine and geography. With that said, the one deal-breaker
I had on our travails through Andalusia was to see the Alhambra. If we couldn’t
see it, then hell, I didn’t want to step foot in Southern Spain at all (not entirely true of course).
Only a short 120+ km
drive out of Malaga, the total drive time to Granada was just on 90 mins.
Extremely easy, great freeways and direct. We had booked in for a 3hr guided
walking tour at 9am, and having left Malaga at a little after 7:30am, had
arrived pretty settled in the car park right on our starting time.
Generalife - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
Generalife - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
Granada - Andalusia - Spain
At this time of year
the Southern part of Spain can heat up like a pinata party at a Mexican quinceanera, you just can’t be assured as
to where the fevered hits will come from. Also with a 6-month old we needed as
tactical as possible with regards to our movements. Thankfully we were blessed
with a reasonably mild morning and a baby that felt this site was well worth
skipping. As Aiden slept we made our way through the Generalife, a Summer estate for the Sultan, featuring elegant
rectangular plots with subtle water features, fragrant gardens, glorious trees
casting shade and an immaculate view over the town and to the mountains beyond.
The only problem I saw with the whole ‘set-up’ is that the Sultan’s Summer Residence is about 5-10 mins walk from the main
palace. Imagine putting the question to the Sultan each year;
‘Well Your
Majesty, do you have any plans for the Summer?
‘What do you think Khalil, I’m heading off just over there, AGAIN.
Why didn’t I think to build my Summer hang out somewhere else? Oh yes, I know
it’s soooo convenient, but hell, I never get to see or doing anything, it’s
like being in a Melbourne lock down, Ellen DeGeneres style, you feeling me
Khalil?’
‘Not
entirely Your Majesty, Aisha and I live in a small hut with our goats and
chickens all year round’
‘Aha, so
you get it, am I right Khalil!’
‘Yes your
Majesty, you are an insightful G’
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Palacio Nazaries
was of course stunning. Divided into three main areas, Mexuar, Serallo and the Harem, each has its own identity, some
parts with highly decorative ceilings, extremely intricate woodwork on the
walls, particular plastering and paint schemes, the whole site is more than
just impressive. It’s an enduring vestige of Muslim art and culture in this
area that has preserved through a myriad of contra periods. For this reason it
remains as one of Spain’s major tourist attractions as it exhibits the
country’s most significant and well known Islamic architecture in impeccable
condition. From a personal point of view, I feel more than privileged to have
been able to walk through the grounds and experience the entire setting, even
for a relatively brief period of time. I could well understand how our guide, a
Dr, wrote their thesis on the architecture of the Alhambra and has dedicated
their life to its ongoing discovery and the tales of its wonders.
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
Aiden & Inga - The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
Aiden, Inga & Zaiga - The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
Thank you,
Andalusia. You are an area of rugged beauty and architectural splendour. When
the doors to your world re-opens I’ll certainly be one of the first to walk
back through them.