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Wednesday, September 11, 2019

Dubai (United Arab Emirates) - you still owe us

Dubai (United Arab Emirates)

11 September - 13 September 2019

This story commenced with what was to have been a wonderful NYE in Dubai as we ticked over from 2017 to 2018. The NYE that died painfully, as captured in that post, was meant to have met its inevitable crescendo with a typically extravagant Emirati fireworks display that would be set to ignite the cockles of our deepest hopes and dreams, inspiring in us a year of endeavour and achievement. That's what all the good marketing had us believe.

At the stroke of midnight however all that anticipation and excitement floundered like the flaccid phallus of a 70 year old man that left his blue pills in the overhead baggage compartment of his last flight. 

What we had been advised in the immediate aftermath of the greatest of letdowns was that for this year...just this year...Dubai had elected to for a light show, rather than its globally renowned fireworks display. What's more, that light show could not be seen from the Shangri-La Hotel, located on the opposite side of the Burj Khalifa, the focal point of NYE celebrations in Dubai.

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

I was livid of course. The Shangri-La had known of this for weeks. Long before I had purchased tickets for the event, and additionally, had sold the event as one of the best vantage points to witness the famous NYE fireworks and festivities of Dubai.

On returning to Belgrade I made the Shangri-La well aware of my grievances and we both settled on two free nights accommodation at the Shangri-La, at a time of my choosing, and, a dinner for two, inclusive of a bottle of wine at their iKandy outdoor restaurant/poolside bar. More than 18 months after the event we had decided to cash in our chips.

Dubai isn't a city for everyone. On my first trip to the burgeoning centre of wild ideas, grand inspiration and engineering marvel, I left feeling more bemused than anything. Admittedly that first time was in 2006, and now, 13 years later, the growth steroids consumed by the emirate has transformed it into a monolithic characterisation of what capitalism does when it runs rampant on the back of petrodollars, human exploitation...and...wild ideas. There's a lot about how the system operates that probably should have me questioning my ethics but if I did that to absolutely everything in my life then where would I be?

View from iKandy @ the Shangri-La - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Where else would Inga be at 9:00am?

This is Inga letting me know exactly where she is

So really, Dubai is like a wondrous Disneyland without sinful overtones that would have align  to a town such as Las Vegas. It's grand, in many ways brash, it drips with money and privilege, sucking you into its realm of both the possible and impossible. For those that love a hot dry climate, then this place has it in spade. For those that love sheesha, great cuisine, cocktails bars, shopping, exploring and about any other touristic venture you can think of, then my, this is a place for you also.

When evening descends in Dubai the night scape scene morphs into something resembling  the dystopian city of LA out of Blade Runner. Not that Dubai is at all sinister or a place where you wouldn't want to spend time but there's something imposing and imperial about the long line of buildings presiding along Al Maktoum Road that both excites and imparts an atmosphere of mystery. It's enigmatic, puzzling at times but full of possibility, and to me, that a great quality for a city to have. Why wouldn't you want to go out and discover what a place such as this has to offer? A city doesn't have to be aesthetically pleasing to be engaging. I personally would rate Dubai as an attractive city, but, it has so much to keep you occupied, and sometimes that's all you need.

Shangri-La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri-La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri-La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

With all that said, having a 6 month old on your books means that you're restricted into what, where, when and how you can enjoy a place like this. On this occasion we mostly spent our time in the Shangri-La with only the odd excursion outside of the front doors. This was to be expected. Still, it doesn't diminish how I feel about Dubai now, nor will it dissuade me from making my way to this part of the world again soon. In my books, its a cool place to be for a time.

Saturday, September 7, 2019

Belgrade (Serbia) - All that you can't leave behind

Belgrade (Serbia)

06 September - 11 September 2019

It’s not such a long time ago that I was flying into Belgrade with my parents, an almost a yearly occurrence as a child, to catch-up with relatives, predominantly from my mother’s side of the family, but also from my father’s side as well. Flying into Belgrade from Barcelona on this occasion, brought back some of those same feelings, some of year ago and of course, of more recent times, having lived there for nearly 3 years.

Grandmother and grandson - Belgrade - Serbia

First grandson


                                Grandmother and grandson - Belgrade - Serbia

Of course introducing a new member of the family was somewhat of a big event, if for no one else, then for me specifically. Strange how the cycle of life can reinvent an old situation but give it a modern day twist. There I was, now the parent, going to visit my mother in Belgrade, and introducing her new grandson. That was both me, and her, some 45 years ago, the same actors, just playing different roles.

Belgrade in many ways has always felt like a second home to me. I’ve said that many times within this blog over the last 12-13 years of writing. That feeling has obviously been heightened by having been based there for an extended period of time. Whereas a child I was still really a visitor, returning now I felt more like an expat, and hey, now that I hold a Serbian passport that view is technically correct.

Bigz Cultural Centre - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Annija, Henry, Inga, Aiden & Davis - Knez Mihajlova - Belgrade - Serbia

There’s a lot I like about Belgrade. Of course it has its issues, proportionally more than many other European cities, but, it’s desperately underrated. Classically European in part, it also has a gritty, urban edge that’s becoming particularly trendy for travellers casting their eye further afield in order to look for something new. Not only that but value for money, for most travellers, is something that’s certain to be a draw card. For its night time culture, restaurants and hospitality, there’s a lot to savour. Whilst not aesthetically appealing as a whole there’s certainly some places where if you capture it in the right light or in the right mood you might just be surprised.

Bigz Cultural Centre - Belgrade - Serbia

Annija & Davis - Ima Dana - Skadarlija - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Ima Dana - Skadarlija - Belgrade - Serbia

 We spent a total of 5 days there. A few days a bit too short for me but a time frame that will likely become the norm into the future. As a child I always lamented our family’s lost opportunity of having access to the world, via my father’s employment with Qantas, but not taking advantage of that opportunity and utilising it only for bilateral purposes of bridging the time and space divide with annual family visits. There was so much more of the world that was available to us and yet our experiences never really extended further than the boundaries of Belgrade. Of course, personally, I’ve more than made up for that with my travels in the last 10 years, the inspiration of which I’m certain was rooted in both my travels as a child and my desires to see much more of what the world had to offer.

The usual suspects presented themselves during our stay. We saw the sights in Belgrade, spent an afternoon in Kosmaj, had ourselves an exceptional lunch in Frans, spent an evening in Skadarlija and introduced the little guy to his grandmothers side of the family. In addition, we also has a drop in visit from Davis and Annija who were kind enough to fly in from Riga for two nights just to catch up with me – which was a very cool thing of them to do.

Outbound flights to Dubai from Belgrade usually happen at 6:30am, it usually means leaving the apartment at latest 4:30am - so not a bad photo considering this is us at 4:00am


Our ride to Dubai - Air Serbia from Aerodrome Nikola Tesla - Belgrade - Serbia

A nice little 'flight bite' to commence proceedings

A great few days altogether and amazingly no arguments with my mother on this occasion. A rarity these days but I was more than thankful for the reprieve.


Tuesday, September 3, 2019

Barcelona (Spain) - Under the Iberian sun

Barcelona (Spain)

03 September - 06 September 2019

It’s quite easy to fall for the charms of Barcelona. Sun-drenched beaches, the deep blue Mediterranean sea in its front yard, stunning architecture, a magnificent culinary landscape and outstanding bar culture – distilled influences of other global centres inhabiting hidden corners of alleyways and secret squares. Vibrant, dynamic and lively. A 24 hour city who is equally as comfortable under the rays of a beating sun as it is with guidance of dimmed moonlight. It has everything you want from a European city, as well as being Spanish (…sort of…but lets not get into the independence debate).

Barri Gotic - Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic - Barcelona - Spain

Las Ramblas - Barcelona - Spain

This is heaven

Mercado de La Boqueria - Barcelona - Spain

Casa Battlo - Barcelona - Spain

Casa Battlo - Barcelona - Spain

Casa Battlo - Barcelona - Spain

It’s always pleasing to come to Barcelona. If feels like a city that’s on perpetual vacation and the atmosphere of the city doesn’t do anything to dispel that myth from any of its visitors.

On this occasion with Inga’s family and a little 6 month in tow, access to many of the things that I love about this city had to be tempered. Not that I’m complaining but it does shut down a lot about the late-night culture that makes this part of the world so quintessentially Iberian. Afternoon siestas, late night dinners, late night drinking, bar hopping and having the early morning sun guide you home. There’s something liberating about having such a great time that the sunshine demands your attention as it casts aside the veil of nighttime inhibition.

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

Barcelona wasn’t born with a gold shoreline. The dearth of anything resembling the beautiful carefree spot of Barceloneta and accompanying beaches heading north on the shoreline was something of a black spot prior to the 1992 Olympics. The area had in fact been quite the neglected corner of this one city. Having turned its back on the pot of gold that standing at its doorstep it took the impetus of global focus to inspire the transformation which activated a change that would add a new, inspirational dimension to this city. So with all that said, it was quite easy to identify where three Latvians would spend their daylight hours in this town. Being Australian and quite sensitive to the dangers of anything UV related, 1.5 Australians spent their time in the relative safety of shaded bars supported by various concoctions of alcohol that obviously substituted the fear of sun damage for an equally damaging vice.

Plaza de San Felipe Neri - Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

M10  Montcada Hotel - Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain



Barcelona - Spain


How good does that look


The little guy - Barcelona - Spain

Our time in Barcelona whilst different to what I’ve usually been accustomed to was still full of most things that you’d expect out of a visit. Visits to Gaudi inspired buildings, gawking at the fabulous wares in markets, judging the various types of sangria on offer and tapping into the plethora of tapas that that accost your senses.

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

Hard Rock Cafe
Hard Rock Cafe - Barcelona - Spain

Barcelona is one of the great cities of Europe, that is undeniable. I’m already looking forward to our next visit.