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Sunday, August 8, 2010

Helsinki - Niko - you were trashed bro!



Helsinki (Finland)
05 AUG - 07 AUG

Something that I noticed in Helsinki was that come 10pm the number or people that were monumentally trashed and wondering the streets increased exponentially. I didn't quite understand that little oddity until it actually dawned upon me until one evening whilst I was making my way back to Suomenlinna island, it was a little after 11pm. I was sitting in the ferry terminal having missed the last ferry back by a manner of minutes. Sitting in the terminal for about 5 mins a tall lanky Finn stumbles around one side, pointing at who knows what, talking to the images in his mind. This, fortunately or unfortunately is the type of person I tend to attract, for better or worse I knew that he'd want to strike up a  conversation the moment he located the door (it took a while for him to work that out). I'm sitting in one corner of the small terminal, this guy sits diagonally across from me having an animated conversation with the ticket booth. He then rips out a packet of cold frankfurts and battles with the pack for about 2-3 mins. Sitting there, watching him, somehow I felt a little hungry and wondered if he'd offer me one, and the pissed bastard does. He gestures in that over animated drunken way like 'Hey mate,come and get it'. I politely refuse but find it strange that he offered. At the point I knew that once he'd 'sighted' me that a conversation would ensue, whatever the hell that was going to involve. I discover that Niko doesn't know a lot of English, conversely I don't know a hell of a lot of Finnish. He asks me where I'm from and I tell him I'm Australian, then out of left field in perfect English Niko rips out this line, 'What do you call an Australian taxi?'...'I don't know Niko, what?'...'A kangaroo!'. Niko LOVES IT! He literally LOVES his own joke and starts up into hysterical fits of laughter. He laughs so hard that an aneurysm would have been on the cards and because of that, I start up into fits of laughter, it's freakin' contagious because I think that line was the only perfectly constructive line of English that he either knows or could have ripped out from his inebriated mind at that moment.


Catching the ferry home - view to Helsinki


Market Square - Helsinki - Finland



Fast forward a couple of days later and I'm waiting for the line 6 tram down to Helsinki west harbour where I was going to jump Tallink Express ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn. The 3B tram pulls up in front of me and there in the tram I see a familiar yellow vest, beaten hat and weathered face of Niko. I yell out to the guy, 'Hey Niko!', he looks at me in that manner that you normally reserve for occasions when you see a strange Spanish/Uruguayan/Serbian or whatever the hell I am, call your name out, he gives me that 'Who the f*** are you look'. Niko, at 11am on this morning is still trashed and I believe that to be his perpetual state. The tram pulls away from the stop and I give Niko a Brett Holman for his troubles, for the unlearned this is either one or two thumbs up, aka Brett Holman that plays football for Australia, (well, apparently he plays football, I'm still a disbeliever). All I could think at that point was 'Niko, you're still trashed bro!'.


Centre of Helsinki - Hakaniemi

Then there's Petteri, the morning that I wake up and start packing my gear for Tallinn good 'ole Petteri hands me a Koff which is a Finnish beer. It's 9am Petteri, what's you're problem mate, are you Australian or something? Petteri has also been drinking for most of the night, he's got a few days off from his excavation job and is getting trashed, again. I met Petteri a few nights earlier also, his English is equivalent to that of Niko. We try and converse but we struggle badly. For a man that was hammered however he comes up with the ingenious notion of calling his wife at 1am to translate the conversation. Obviously she thinks this is a brilliant idea and I can hear the anger and frustration in her voice, and yet she persists for somewhere close to 10 mins, allowing a drunk Petteri to get to know me a little better. From what I could figure Petteri does excavation work and travels down from his hometown of Kuopio in the north to work in Helsinki, he does three weeks stints om and then heads home for a week, or something along those lines. He's a nice guy, but ranks as one in a list of hammered Finns that I witness in the days that I was there...which brings me to the original point...Supermarkets sell cheap alcohol readily and freely at prices significantly cheaper than one would pay for them in a bar. The issue is that they stop selling alcohol relatively early, I think somewhere close to 7pm or thereabouts, which means that you get quite a few hammered Finns wondering the streets once their golden purchases have taken affect. The devils hours between 7pm and midnight are something to behold.

Freestyler - rock the microphone, straight from the top of his dome


Helsinki streetscape


On the back of Henry's Pub we have Robert's Coffee...now all we need is Julie's tobacconist and we're sorted!


Is this gull giving me a 'Whatchu talkin' about Willis' look...

This brings me to my last couple of days in Helsinki, which aside from meeting amusing pissheads was a little tame but not too bad never the less. I spent most days cruising around the city just checking it out, doing my own little bit of discovery but nothing too extravagent. As per last entry, it's a nice place, no doubt. Not somewhere that I'd want to stay for any real extended period of time, well not solo in any case, but a nice enough place to visit. Typically Nordic, typically conservative and chilled in that restrained Scandanavian manner. That's a tough one to explain, it's chilled, liberal in some ways but still conservative in others. You get the feeling that not too much would phase the Finns but if you pushed them to their breaking point then you'd have a massacre on your hands. Thankfully I didn't irritate too many enough to see an actual trigger on the 'flipout'.

Not the most inspiring photo, I know...but here's the deal, that little courtyard is also tacked onto Helsinki's best brewery, and just behind that is the dock where I'd catch the ferry to the city centre...thankfully this was the view from my room, jump out the window and make it to the brewery in 10 seconds!

On the way out, leaving Helsinki behind and out into the Baltic sea

Friday, August 6, 2010

Helsinki - 'Oujee'

Helsinki (Finland)
02 AUG - 04 AUG



Big love for Helsinki


So ladies, if a nice spritely Finnish man walks up to you one day and whispers the words, 'Miltee se tuntus viela joskas muata meijan sukuhauvass', don't look at him like his downed one to many shots of Findlandia! Get out your Google translators and relish the opportunity to discover what exactly that interpretations mean. I can say this however, the close equivalent is something about - 'How would you feel about lying in the same family grave someday'. It's only then, when you truly understand the core of what the man is saying that you can reply with that kind and underderstanding Australian response that we're reknowed for, 'Piss off you moron!'...but, just in case you need to know a little more, apparently this particular linguistic style is particular to the Savo of Eastern Finland. They also have a manner of describing things or asking things in a very confusing but descriptive manner, so this young buck, the man of your Finnish dreams, has apparently just proposed to you and would like for you to be his wife - a little better than an Aussie, ' 'carn, do you wanna or what?'. I know, it's just a heads up but you never know your luck in a big city, or a small Eastern Finnish town, apparently.



My small love for Helsinki

Flying the 2.5 hours from Paris and landing at Helsinki's Vantaa airport, all I could see around me for miles were tall wooded pine forests, I guess not surprising since three quarters of the land surface of Finland is apparently covered by forest. What's more, the streets were kind of deserted and you could only really assume from that that the 5.2 million Finns were either EasyJet paranoid and hiding in the forests or perhaps in one of their 2 million sauna's,seriously, what's the caper with the 'getting steamed' compulsion? That's the equivalent of one sauna to every nuclear Finnish family - WHY FINLAND? WHY????? What's with that!!?

Enough of the Finnish weirdness for a moment and totally forgetting the length of your arm words with double, triple or quadruple vowels all in a row that make you sound like you're choking on a sack of marbles if you dare pronounce words such as 'stop', 'help', 'cat', or dog. A quick history lesson on where these little Swedish retarded cousins came from, and just before I do, isn't it funny how the retarded cousins of big brother countries are always fiesty and a little competitive, just like the Finns with the Swedes, or with Canadians and the Americans, but the big brothers are always kind of patting them on the head saying 'there, there', and then wiping the floor with their pithy exploits. Anyway, that's a totally different story.

So, how this place happened. The first crusade to Finland was led by the Swedish King Eric IX in 1155, and for the next 650 years, Finland was part of Sweden. Then in 1809 Sweden lost Finland to Russia, in turn, Finland became a Grand Duchy of the Russian Empire until 1917 when they gained their Independence. As for its capital, Helsinki, it was founded by King Gustav of Sweden in 1550 and was done so to become a trading post and southern competitor to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia. These days there's 500,000 Finns living in Helsinki with 1.2 million estimated to be living in the greater metropolitan area.



Facade at the central railway - they kind of look serious, kind of stoic, kind of pansy like also

Now, WHY THE HELL AM I HERE??


I remember dad telling me in repeated stories that my aunty's first husband was 'special', much in the same way that Swedes look upon Finns. During the 1952 Olympics in Helsinki this guy apparently was dismayed by the daily newspaper headlines, 'Helsinki ...blah blah', 'Blah, blah...Helsinki', until one day he commented to a group of people, 'Wow, that Helsinki must be good, I see his name in the paper everyday, he's winning everything'.Ah yes, don't we all love the exploits of the 'special' people amongst us. Never the less, his infamous words resonated down the decades and when I was looking for an oddball place to go for a little while, well, Helsinki fit the bill.

My first few days in this town have been more than enjoyeable. First of all my digs. I'm currently located on Suomenlinna island, a 15 min ferry ride from the main market square. This place is actually a series of six linked islands on which a 200 year old fortress now stands. No longer in military use, this place is UNESCO heritage listed, (lucky, because I was wanted to rip the place up YO!), and is an interesting place to reside for a few days, especially considering that Helsinki's finest brewery is literally across the road from the room that I'm in, or a 2 minute S-L-O-W walk from the front door.



Catching the ferry to Suomenlinna island - my home for a few days - brewery at my front door


Helsinki from the Suomenlinna ferry

As for Helsinki itself, well it's quaint, it's ordered, it's very nordic, meaning that it's conservative but in various places you see that warped Nordic tendency for bad humour or the need for them to break out of their conservative image. It's not that French style breakout, when the French do it it's big and bold, and somehow makes sense, when the Finns do it, it's just odd (see Lordi, winners of the Eurovision song contest a few years back, that'll make my point nicely). Travelling around the city however is a breeze, public transport is reliable, ordered and always on time. A daily pass is 3.8 Euros and will allow you to travel on any line, any mode of transport, for as long as you require for the day. This allowed me to do a little Helsinki exploration of my own and get up to the Olympic stadium and see the place where the world came to play in 1952. It also allowed me to take a lift up to the 11 storey tower that was purposely built for the Olympics and have a birdseye view of this city, and aesthetically, you would have to say that it's a beautiful place. Relatively small, it's open to the Baltic sea and is either surrounded by water from the sea or by one of the 180,000 lakes that cover the land, well that part that isn't covered by forest.



Capital of the sporting world for two weeks in 1952



Olympic Tower



Stadium getting ready for the U2 gig, oh yeah, Athens, you're not that far away now!



View of Helsinki from the Olympic tower



Silja line, Tallinn or Stockholm or St Petersburg bound


Lakes and islands and lakes - Welcome to Finland



Good 'ole Nordic style, neat and ordered



Streetscape - Helsinki

I also took in a European League Champions match between the hometown champs, HJK Helsinki and the team that my dad followed as a kid, FC Partizan of Belgrade. Not much of a game really, two decent goals but the Serbian side had already spanked the Finns in Belgrade 3-0 and were apparently treating them in the same fashion that Swedes do, although without that streak of compassion. Still, a draw at home for the Finns was an ok resulted and the small crowd in the Finnair stadium wasn't too disappointed.


UCL match - hometown team vs my defacto hometown...and a team from there


Game action - HJK Helsinki vs. FK Partizan



..and don't these guys know how to name a bar ! Welcome home!





As for the next few days, will be in Helsinki until the 7th of August and then jumping a boat down to Tallinn in Estonia, as for after that? Your guess is as good as mine :)

I love this shot - it's taken just before midnight, the sun will just not drop!

...Oh, and by the way, I'm starting up a 'Guestbook Photo bomb series' were the object of my fury will be my ex partner in crime, now Sydney resident once more, Janelle Jordan. JJ, this first one in a list of many comes to you from the Helsinki City Museum...enjoy ;)


You still {heart} Paris JJ, no matter where you go :)

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Paris - 'Hey, I can see the tower that Gustav built'

Paris (France)
29 JUL - 02 AUG

The day before JJ and I had been walking through an amusment park in the gardens out the front of the Louvre, I've got the Tulleries in my head but who can be certain. I remembered that a couple of years ago this place had one of those capsule bungy contraptions that shot you into the stratoshphere at about the same speed that your breakfast would try and escape via your esophagus. After checking it out JJ and I vowed to join the space race the very next day, albeit after a more sedate stroll through the Louvre.

Museum hunting, strolling or wondering may not be the thing that some people want to achieve from a holiday. For some reason I tend to be a little more active when I'm away although one day I'd like to swap those tendencies for many a mind blotting cocktail, a nice beach and a sunset vista. That time is not now however. With that said, museum's aren't really what you could call strenuous activity, not unless that musuem is the Louvre and you're fighting your way through the crowd to spot the Mona Lisa, or you're walking the miles of corridors to try and view the 30,000+ pieces on display, or you're navigating the stairs between floors ( those darstedly stairs again!). This place is immense and if you're in there just for a day then you need a battle plan. This is not the way we went about things.

Angel of Samothrace - Louvre

The only plan of attack that JJ and I carried into battle was to hit the classics or the 'must sees' as early as possible. This meant the Mona Lisa was first on our agenda. Now, just like the other stupid stereotypes of Paris there are a few that are run by those who have seen the Mona Lisa or at least have pretended to. Being a little cynical or sceptical in my old age I've got the feeling that the criticisms are put out there just to keep the crowds away, I'm sure you've heard them, the painting is unimpressive, it's too small, it's only average - WRONG - on all counts...but really, if you want to believe what you hear then don't go, I could deal with not having to dodge the other happy snappy tourists that are just like me. The painting is amazing and her eyes engaging enough to make you really believe that they're following you around!


That painting by Micky D


My own Louvre triptych


Venus de Milo - looking relaxed



Showing a little perspective

Ofcourse there are a number of other critical pieces, the Venus de Milo, any of the classics, the Angel of Samothrace, etc. Too much to see in just one day and enough to have you saturated by so many wonderful works that all you can do to recover is accept the happy hour offering that Paris so graciously serves up between 4pm & 10pm. Did someone say whiskey sours?

The Louvre - from the Louvre

It was with some bravado and a touch of alcohol inspiration that we boarded the bungy rocket ball bound for 50+ mtrs off the ground, getting you to 6g in under three seconds (apparently). The launch took us skyward in an instant but before we knew it we were inverted and bouncing around the Paris skyline like six year olds on pogo sticks, not really knowing what the hell was happening but laughing all the way. Never the less we did manage to catch a great view of Paris with JJ picking out the Eiffel tower with the call, 'Hey, look at the tower that Gustav built!' - for some reason it was absolutely hilarious for the occassion.

With the powers of Gustav in our mind we headed for the tower and tackled the first two floors ironman style, getting us to about 150mtrs under our own steam. The rest of the way was elevator powered, all the way up to the 324mtr mark where good 'ole Gustav had himself a quaint little office to welcome guests such as Thomas Eddison. Not a bad way to spend a day, commanding views of Paris and the ultimate trump card in a game of one upsmanship. 'So, where do you work Gustav?'...'Oh, you know that little tower by the Seine, yes that's my design, I practically built it - my office is at the top of the tower'...'Aha - well I'm a butcher...so, what's your favourite cut of meat?'.


Will power - climb those stairs of Gustav!


The Seine from the top of the tower


The Seine from the top of the tower
At the top!
Champ de Mars from the top of the tower


Ahh..and again


The sunset series - I think JJ nailed this shot! (I hate you ;)

The sunset series
 The sunset series - over La Defense


 The sunset series - over La Defense


30 JUL - 15 yrs on and the Royale with cheese is still on the menu
Taking another set of stairs below the streets of Paris this time we went all subterranean to check out the catacombs. The location of the site is in the ....area, in the 14th arrondissement, and was established over 220 years ago after the 'original' cemetry of Paris in the Marais area was dug up and all remains exhumed for sanitary reasons.

This place is insane! After I overcame a good 30 second dose of claustraphobia we wondered around under these streets for what felt like hours. It's a little surreal to imagine that when you're walking on modern day Parisieene streets that some 20mtrs below your feet are the remains of old time Parisieenes that were around nearly 300yrs ago, some of whom you could be directly descended from. Still, the skulls and bones are neatly stacked, in almost an artistic fashion, which makes you think that somewhere in this city there's a man whose speciality or artistic quality is this...perhaps he could challenge Gustav on a game of one upsmanship insanity.

Hey bro! In the catacombs


Morbid artistry?

Having our fill of bones in very much the same manner that Jenna Jameson does in a long day on set we spotted a quaint roadside establishment for the now 4pm ritual. Pina colada's delivered, and again, and once more, we rallied to make sense of the situation but by the time our senses caught up we had already left the building and were in a macca's enquiring about the existenc of a Royal with cheese and whether beer could actually be purchased over the counter - 'YES' on both counts.


The Royale's with cheese and beer - it happened!


How did they let me into Maccas ?

Turning for home and having to battle our way via foggy minds, logistical malfunction and train stair carnage, (sorry JJ, just had to add to you came a gutsa - BIG TIME), we managed to turn up at Yono's just after nine for a final happy hour shout of whiskey sours! Like the true drinking professionals that we are, can spot a Parisienne happy hour from a mile away.

31 JUL - 01 AUG - All things come to an end, even the good ones
Our last couple of days in Paris were slower and more relaxed than the previous ones. We checked out Notre Dam on one of those and spent the other in the Pompidou viewing exhibits on display in the Museum of Contemporary Art - please also see (The Museum of What the F**$ is that!?). Some of that stuff is just plain warped!


The gargoyles of Notre Dame


The gargoyles of Notre Dame

...and this unfortunately is where this particular segment of 'A Year Full of Saturdays' ends. Travelling around with JJ for the last month was a riot, we had a great time everywhere we went and strangely the time went both quickly and slowly all at once. So to JJ I say a 'Big Thankyou' Moroccan style and  I hope to see you on the last leg home in Brazil. For now I'm off the Helsinki, the start of a little Baltic escapade........>>>here we go>>>


PHOTO BOMBED AGAIN!!!!!!!! OH YEAH !!!