TIKAL (GUATEMALA)
20 February - 21 February 2017
20 February - 21 February 2017
We worked our way to Tikal via a half-day stop in Guatemala City and an overnight ride to Flores, a small town located on Lake Peten Itza.
Guatemala City - Guatemala
First port of call in Guatemala City, the bus stop of Transportes Fuente del Norte. A typical ramschakle style of bus station located in the 'do drop out' part of town, it was the part of the city that made you feel ill at ease. Logically looking back on it now that shouldn't have been the case but all the talk of Guatemala City being the burgeoning centre for both petty and violent crime had the desired impact on us of heightening levels of anxiety. The fact that we arrived during the day did assist with keeping us relatively calm. Still, with that said, being in one of the very few Central American Hard Rock cities, we walked across town (about 4kms) and had ourselves dinner and drinks at the Guatemala City Hard Rock in Zone 10. A big, extravagant Hard Rock Cafe, there were about 5 people, 20 staff, and places for 200. Under utilised, over-expensed, it's probably no wonder that since our time there this location has closed down. RIP Hard Rock Cafe Guatemala City - thank you for a good time.
Hard Rock Cafe - Guatemala City - Guatemala
Hard Rock Cafe - Guatemala City - Guatemala
Opting not to walk back to Transportes Fuente del Norte we took the more assured version of a cab and waited around 90 minutes until our bus was scheduled to pull out just after midnight. Somewhere around 6am our bus pulled up outside a gas station on the outskirts of Flores (Guatemala), and we became part of what I like to call Central American mini-scam, Part II.
They have this scam thing down to an art form in Central America. On this occasion it was the '6am chaos and frenzy' approach. Having just stopped at a service station in Santa Elena on came a rotund, pudgy Guatemalan man yelling out 'Tikal, Tikal, if you want to go today, you have to go now....Tikal, Tikal'. That was in fact the aim of Inga and I, we had not planned to stay in Flores at all, so we took the opportunity to get a free ride into town in a couple of minivans that were Gringo Ready.
So there we all were, the early birds standing outside the offices of Gran Jaguar dealing with our scam artist Enrique. This 'man of confidence' is reasonably well presented and speaks English quite well, so it made the initial dealings very easy and efficient. We ended up buying a park entry ticket into Tikal for that day, and also, one for the next day which was to included a guided early morning tour to temple 4. Now, to cut a long story short because I'd really like to talk about Tikal, our ticket did not in fact include entrance to the park for the full day. It was only a day ticket that would allow entrance after 3pm. Considering we got to the park entrance gates at 9:30am (20kms from the Tikal site itself), it meant a 5.5hr wait at the front gates for a bus at the designated entry time, or, paying full price for a full day entry on arrival. We elected to wait the 5.5hrs. Absurd to some but on principle we did not want to pay for more than we originally requested. Somehow we made the most of those hours even with just a handful of stores and a bar at our disposal.
The Marvel of Mayan Engineering - TIKAL
They have this scam thing down to an art form in Central America. On this occasion it was the '6am chaos and frenzy' approach. Having just stopped at a service station in Santa Elena on came a rotund, pudgy Guatemalan man yelling out 'Tikal, Tikal, if you want to go today, you have to go now....Tikal, Tikal'. That was in fact the aim of Inga and I, we had not planned to stay in Flores at all, so we took the opportunity to get a free ride into town in a couple of minivans that were Gringo Ready.
So there we all were, the early birds standing outside the offices of Gran Jaguar dealing with our scam artist Enrique. This 'man of confidence' is reasonably well presented and speaks English quite well, so it made the initial dealings very easy and efficient. We ended up buying a park entry ticket into Tikal for that day, and also, one for the next day which was to included a guided early morning tour to temple 4. Now, to cut a long story short because I'd really like to talk about Tikal, our ticket did not in fact include entrance to the park for the full day. It was only a day ticket that would allow entrance after 3pm. Considering we got to the park entrance gates at 9:30am (20kms from the Tikal site itself), it meant a 5.5hr wait at the front gates for a bus at the designated entry time, or, paying full price for a full day entry on arrival. We elected to wait the 5.5hrs. Absurd to some but on principle we did not want to pay for more than we originally requested. Somehow we made the most of those hours even with just a handful of stores and a bar at our disposal.
KM 510 - Entrance to Tikal - Guatemala
KM 510 - Entrance to Tikal - Guatemala
The Marvel of Mayan Engineering - TIKAL
You’re going to be
walking
You’re going to be
climbing
You’re going to be
sweating in Tikaaaaal
(quote from random guide on a random bus to Tikal)
(quote from random guide on a random bus to Tikal)
To me Tikal is the most
impressive site in this neck of the woods. More moody, mysterious and
impressive than Teotihuacan and much more grand that the New World Wonder site of Chichen Itza, the site at Tikal is the
ruin of what was an ancient city named Yux Matal.
Located in the rainforests of
Guatemala, this city of 16kms square has a mystical type of presence, an atmosphere
that lends itself to being something magical & esoteric. Once the possession
of the great Mayan people, the city was founded in the period of approximately
2000BC and continued growing until 830AD when there was a sudden drop off.
Standing in front of Temple V - Tikal - Guatemala
Temple V - Tikal - Guatemala
Tikal - Guatemala
Tikal - Guatemala
Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala
Aside from Tikal being utilised
as a location site for Yavin 4 in Star Wars, Episode IV, A New Hope, the true worth of this Classical period Mayan city are
the structures. The architecture of this ancient city is built from limestone
and includes the remains of temples that tower some 70 mtrs. With large royal
palaces, smaller pyramids, administrative buildings & residences, what is
visible to those visiting the site is an absolute treat.
The absolute highlight for me was
Temple 5. Standing imperiously above
the canopy of the jungle, majestic and regal,
the pyramid is known as a typical Peten-styled
limestone stepped pyramid structure. Standing at 57mtrs in height it holds
absolute command of its environment and punctuates how impressive it was for an
ancient people to be able to construct something of just magnitude and heady
audacity. I say audacious but perhaps it was just commitment and belief in
their capability.
Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala
Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala
Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala
Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala
More remarkable on this site are
those elements that are unseen, specifically a ravine and water reservoir which then
controlled the flow and distribution of water into a city which grew rapidly
around this central requirement. Scientists have placed the construction of the
main water system of Tikal at 370 AD and falling within the 18 year reign of
the ruler Jaguar Paw the Great (Chak Tok Ich’aak 1). Without wanting to go
further into this critical survival element, it’s also important to note that a
palace structure in the Central Acropolis, has also been identified as either
the house or the residential palace of the same ruler. Indeed, Temple 1 in
Tikal, also known as Temple of the Great
Jaguar, is another marvellous structural piece within this glorious ancient
city.
Temple 1 - Tikal - Guatemala
Tikal - Guatemala
Tikal - Guatemala
Tikal - Guatemala
It was easy to spend a full day
at the site moving around to view each of the main pyramids. In many ways it
reminded me of the Angkor Wat site in Cambodia, only on a much smaller scale.
The capacity to move around comfortably and without the incessant hassle of all
the unnecessary souvenir shops that act as a gaudy nuisance at Chichen Itza,
Tikal was by far the most well preserved and interesting sites that we visited.
It stands as a shining example of how places like these should be managed and
looked after by locals, and not just for the sake of tourists but also in terms
of establishing a sense of pride and honour in their own history and culture.
Tikal - Guatemala
Tikal - Guatemala
Yavin 4 in Star Wars, Episode IV, A New Hope
Inga and I stayed onsite for the
night at a comfortable stop named the Jungle
Lodge Hotel. Just off the main path that leads onto the Tikal site, it was
a great place to relax for the night and recharge our batteries after a warm,
sticky day out in the jungle.
So to you Tikal I tip my hat, if
I were wearing one. A true gem in a country that I had underestimated and who
people I had unnecessarily feared. Of all the Central American countries we
visited I’d say you surprised me the most. Guatemala, I’m impressed!
