Granada (Spain)
02 September 2019
The Alhambra is an ode to Moorish architecture and culture, set amongst the pensive Sierra Nevada mountains. This place has gone through various incantations, casting its magical charm on all those that have gazed upon it and wondered through its halls of intricacy & artistry. I often wonder as to how majestic places such as these, along their historical timeline, seem as some point to simply vanish from existence. Take for example Angkor Wat & Machu Picchu, both marvels that simply vanished, lost to the world for centuries before being rediscovered. So too the Alhambra. Having fallen into disrepair over centuries, the building for one period of time was even occupied by squatters. It’s unfathomable to even consider that as a possibility for a residence of such heritage and splendour.
The origins of the Alhambra, whose name derives from the Arabic, al-qala’a al-hamra (the Red Castle), is mired in mystery. Some of its earliest references point to the construction of a small Roman fortress, approximately 900CE, but some of its buildings are understood to even pre-date that time frame. Having fallen into disrepair once again (well, actually for the first time, but the second occasion in this story), it was the Emirate of Granada that built the current palace and its walls of intricate beauty.
The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain
Having fallen in love with Spain many years ago I had never made it further south than Madrid. I can’t answer right now as to why that’s been the case, shouldn’t Andalusia have been a mighty draw card? Yes, of course. Even on this occasion, the little tid-bit of time that we spent in this culturally rich part of Spain has only been enough to wet the appetite and sponsor further daydreams of fabulous Andalusian culture, cuisine and geography. With that said, the one deal-breaker I had on our travails through Andalusia was to see the Alhambra. If we couldn’t see it, then hell, I didn’t want to step foot in Southern Spain at all (not entirely true of course).
Only a short 120+ km drive out of Malaga, the total drive time to Granada was just on 90 mins. Extremely easy, great freeways and direct. We had booked in for a 3hr guided walking tour at 9am, and having left Malaga at a little after 7:30am, had arrived pretty settled in the car park right on our starting time.
At this time of year the Southern part of Spain can heat up like a pinata party at a Mexican quinceanera, you just can’t be assured as to where the fevered hits will come from. Also with a 6-month old we needed as tactical as possible with regards to our movements. Thankfully we were blessed with a reasonably mild morning and a baby that felt this site was well worth skipping. As Aiden slept we made our way through the Generalife, a Summer estate for the Sultan, featuring elegant rectangular plots with subtle water features, fragrant gardens, glorious trees casting shade and an immaculate view over the town and to the mountains beyond. The only problem I saw with the whole ‘set-up’ is that the Sultan’s Summer Residence is about 5-10 mins walk from the main palace. Imagine putting the question to the Sultan each year;
‘Well Your Majesty, do you have any plans for the Summer?
‘What do you think Khalil, I’m heading off just over there, AGAIN. Why didn’t I think to build my Summer hang out somewhere else? Oh yes, I know it’s soooo convenient, but hell, I never get to see or doing anything, it’s like being in a Melbourne lock down, Ellen DeGeneres style, you feeling me Khalil?’
‘Not entirely Your Majesty, Aisha and I live in a small hut with our goats and chickens all year round’
‘Aha, so you get it, am I right Khalil!’
‘Yes your Majesty, you are an insightful G’
The Palacio Nazaries was of course stunning. Divided into three main areas, Mexuar, Serallo and the Harem, each has its own identity, some parts with highly decorative ceilings, extremely intricate woodwork on the walls, particular plastering and paint schemes, the whole site is more than just impressive. It’s an enduring vestige of Muslim art and culture in this area that has preserved through a myriad of contra periods. For this reason it remains as one of Spain’s major tourist attractions as it exhibits the country’s most significant and well known Islamic architecture in impeccable condition. From a personal point of view, I feel more than privileged to have been able to walk through the grounds and experience the entire setting, even for a relatively brief period of time. I could well understand how our guide, a Dr, wrote their thesis on the architecture of the Alhambra and has dedicated their life to its ongoing discovery and the tales of its wonders.
Thank you,
Andalusia. You are an area of rugged beauty and architectural splendour. When
the doors to your world re-opens I’ll certainly be one of the first to walk
back through them.
