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Wednesday, March 4, 2020

Bali (Seminyak) - Indonesia - Before the deluge

Bali (Seminyak) - Indonesia

04 March – 07 March 2020

If somehow the memories I have of our Bali trip managed to travel forward at the speed of light until now, then by comparison, I think I may have aged dramatically, if not physically, then without question, psychologically. In the same manner that Einstein’s theory of special relativity predicts that the person ‘left behind on earth’ would age significantly when compared with the person flying into the future, aka (space), on their anti-age defying machine of light speed.

Truthfully, the nine months from March until now have felt like five years in the age of our COVID-19 ravaged reality.

These days, as I peer out of our apartment window, looking down onto Flinders St, I find it completely empty, bar for the occasional Uber eats cyclist or an emergency service vehicle on its way to another crisis. This is the end-of-days scenario that we use to admonish ‘Doomsday Preppers’ for anticipating. In its early days collectively we all thought that just like any other melodrama that  has emerged via our pixelated idiot boxes, that the Novel Coronavirus would somehow disappear in the manner of SARS, MERS or Ebola. I think part of the contempt initially was that somehow we were immune to any sizeable global catastrophe. Bad things, global troubles, were only ‘real’ and identifiable in the guise of the tangible,  things such as armed conflict, terrorism, natural disasters. As the now emeritus Donald J Trump said in this oft repeated snippet,You know in theory when it gets a little warmer it miraculously goes away. Going on further, and to reiterate my initial point on how long the decade of 2020 feels, he goes on to say,We only have 11 cases and they’re all getting better’…. that was on February 10th, 2020….

…Roll forward to 10 December 2020, exactly 10 months later and the US Coronavirus statistics read like this;

  • 15.2 million cases
  • 286,000 deaths
  • 200,000 + cases per day

Aside from the sheer stupidity and ignominy of a leader making such bombastic comments, the numbers offer more to the reality than our collectively conflated denial back in the day was willing to grasp.

On our way to Bali - Melbourne - Australia

Now even Aiden can say, 'I've been to Bali too'  - Melbourne - Australia

Our last family trip before the COVID tsunami hit us


Before the deluge, the onset of the pandemic that halted economies, travel, social life and much of everything that has modern day humans we had taken for granted, we'd planned a getaway to the island paradise located to our north-west. A getaway not just for this Australian trio, but also, for Inga's family who would be meeting us  in Bali before returning with us to Melbourne in order to have their first experience of the Great Southern Land.

Inga and I were making our first visit to Bali after a four-year hiatus. In that time we had circled the globe a few times, gotten engaged, then married, relocated to Australia and had our first and only child to date, Aiden. When you summarise it all in just a few lines like that it makes you realise that a hell of a lot occurred in that time-frame.

Villa Gupta - Semiyak - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Gupta - Semiyak - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Gupta - Semiyak - Bali - Indonesia

Villa Gupta - Semiyak - Bali - Indonesia

Kudeta - restaurant and beachclub - Villa Gupta - Semiyak - Bali - Indonesia

Semiyak - Bali - Indonesia

Generally the Australian perception of Bali is that it’s that locations where bogans go to have their international holiday. Giving  them the ability to say  that they’ve been overseas. Famously epitomized in the Redgum song I’ve been to Bali too, the lyrics, ‘Bali T-shirts, magic mushrooms, Redgum bootlegs, I’ve been to Bali too’ inevitably the images that many of us conjure when we think of those other Australians making their way to the island. And sure, there is some of that style to be expected of Australians in Bali, especially in Kuta, but Bali can, and does offer so much more. I can say from personal experience that I(we) have only scratched the surface of both the beauty of the people, their land, and all that it has to offer. So in that sense I’m not ashamed to say that not only have I been to Bali too, but, I plan on returning a number of times in the future.

Rock Bar - AYANA Resort - Jimbaran - Bali - Indonesia

Rock Bar - AYANA Resort - Jimbaran - Bali - Indonesia

Rock Bar - AYANA Resort - Jimbaran - Bali - Indonesia

Balinese Temple - Tanah Lot - Bali - Indonesia

Balinese Temple - Tanah Lot - Bali - Indonesia

Flying into Denpasar on a typically balmy Bali evening, we were met by Komang, our driver and guide from four years earlier. A friendly, genuine and somewhat understated individual, he typified to me a lot of what the people here seem have within the fabric of their DNA. Not anything brash, or overt, but a sincerity and openness that is not manufactured for a purpose. Once again, we had asked him to be our guide for the next few days once again, this time playing host a slightly extended family audience.

Balinese Temple - Tanah Lot - Bali - Indonesia

Balinese Temple - Tanah Lot - Bali - Indonesia

Balinese Temple - Tanah Lot - Bali - Indonesia

Balinese Temple - Tanah Lot - Bali - Indonesia

Bali - Indoia

On this occasion we had rented out Villa Gupta for our time in Central Seminyak. A tranquil, gorgeous, three -bedroom abode where we would spend our time between our comings and goings. A truly great place, perfect a bigger group like our and in all honesty, much better value than having to book three different rooms in a hotel or a resort.

Nusa Dua Beach - Bali - Indonesia

Nusa Dua Beach - Bali - Indonesia

OMNIA Dayclub - Kabupaten Badung - Bali - Indonesia

OMNIA Dayclub - Kabupaten Badung - Bali - Indonesia

OMNIA Dayclub - Kabupaten Badung - Bali - Indonesia

For the next couple of days we spent most of our time either in Seminyak or on the most southern coastline of Bali. In this regard, there wasn’t an overwhelming urge to undertake mass sightseeing but we did all get an idea of the key elements that make this island such an overwhelming favourite for so many people.

OMNIA Dayclub - Kabupaten Badung - Bali - Indonesia

Hard Rock Cafe - Kuta - Bali - Indonesia

Hard Rock Cafe - Kuta - Bali - Indonesia

Being from Australia, this part of the world is relatively familiar to me, in the sense that it’s proximity gives you a sense of awareness for it. Coming from Latvia on the other hand must feel like your stepping into a totally different universe. A paradise that inspires a tropical state of mind. Coming from a land where the average annual air temperature is just +5.9 degrees, Bali must truly be a tropical splendour.

Sunday, September 15, 2019

Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates) - Hitting it off

 Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates)

13 September - 15 September 2019

As one of those travelling families that have utilised Abu Dhabi merely a point of transit of the years, getting to be familiar with the International Airport, for us, was akin to establishing familiarity with the city itself. Which is to say, we really haven’t discovered a lot about the poorer/richer cousin of the brash & dazzling Dubai. Somehow on this occasion the feeling we took away was a place that was more engaging and more interesting. I couldn’t tell you the reason for that, we didn’t take in tours of discovery or undertake any culturally insightful events, we had a simple stay at the Bab Al Qasr hotel, a decent view, some sheesha, cocktails and relaxed vibe. Maybe that’s all that was needed. A little time reflecting on another great holiday, and figuring out where the next might originate.

Ready to roll - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Rock Star moves - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates

Rock Star moves - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates

The next day we were at the airport, ready to make our way back to Melbourne. Typically going the rigmarole of checking-in is laborious and boring at the best of times. With a 6-month old it becomes a challenging event, which makes it all the more frustrating when Eithad lets you know that the confirmed seats you have for the flight does not actually guarantee that you’ll get onto the flight. Typical, it seems for Etihad, as this has happened to both my parents and myself in Abu Dhabi previously, Etihad overbooks its flights, by what seems to be a far larger percentage that is common to industry practices. These means therefore that even if you turn up to the airport on-time, your chances of getting offloaded with a fully paid ticket are relatively high. An absolute nuisance and frustration, and a lesson to be learned in terms of drilling in the process of compulsory online check-in. For us, the day delay wasn’t a major drama other than the fact that I was commencing a new job the very next day, and so, re-arranging flights out meant that our new schedule had us in Melbourne at about 6:30am on Monday morning. For any of us that may have arrived home on a long-haul flight and committed ourselves to the torment of heading into work the same day, you know the pain, your working day is nothing short of torture. Still, Etihad gave us $600USD credit each and complimentary accommodation and meals, so not an entire disappointment.

Bab Al Qasr hotel - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates

Bab Al Qasr hotel - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates

The Royal Palace from the Bab Al Qasr hotel - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates


Bab Al Qasr hotel - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates

Bab Al Qasr hotel - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates


Having talked up the Formula Rossa ride at Ferrari World for the past four weeks, the additional day gave us the opportunity to introduce Inga to the fastest ride on the planet.

There are simply no words and nothing that can prepare for the adrenalin rush the first time you accelerate out of the terminal. Touchpoints you thought that you may have had to any other roller coaster disappear when your body is thrust into the back of your seat and you gasp for air. Reaching 240kph just before you climb vertically into the Arabian sky feels almost surreal as you reach the apex of your first drop and the rest of the park is spread out before you.

For those that want to know the stats, 1.7 G-force at launch, 4.8 G throughout the ride and 0 to 240kph in 4.9 seconds – they’re some serious numbers.

Inga in the second row, red top - Formula Rosso ride - Ferrari World - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates

Ferrari World - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates

Ferrari World - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates

I was happy that Inga got to share the experience because I had been talking up the ride for a while and I know that she didn’t quite believe that it would live up to the expectation – in her words, as she walked towards me after the right ended, ‘Oh wow…wow…I couldn’t breath …I didn’t expect that’

Exactly

After our afternoon at Ferrari World we headed back to the airport hotel, had some dinner and crashed out for the night.

The good 'ole Krompir Salata - Airport Hotel - Abu Dhabi - United Arab Emirates

Out over the Indian Ocean

The next day, thankfully, we boarded our flight without any drama and I made it into work for 9:00am start o Day1 at Australian Unity.

Wednesday, September 11, 2019

Dubai (United Arab Emirates) - you still owe us

Dubai (United Arab Emirates)

11 September - 13 September 2019

This story commenced with what was to have been a wonderful NYE in Dubai as we ticked over from 2017 to 2018. The NYE that died painfully, as captured in that post, was meant to have met its inevitable crescendo with a typically extravagant Emirati fireworks display that would be set to ignite the cockles of our deepest hopes and dreams, inspiring in us a year of endeavour and achievement. That's what all the good marketing had us believe.

At the stroke of midnight however all that anticipation and excitement floundered like the flaccid phallus of a 70 year old man that left his blue pills in the overhead baggage compartment of his last flight. 

What we had been advised in the immediate aftermath of the greatest of letdowns was that for this year...just this year...Dubai had elected to for a light show, rather than its globally renowned fireworks display. What's more, that light show could not be seen from the Shangri-La Hotel, located on the opposite side of the Burj Khalifa, the focal point of NYE celebrations in Dubai.

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

I was livid of course. The Shangri-La had known of this for weeks. Long before I had purchased tickets for the event, and additionally, had sold the event as one of the best vantage points to witness the famous NYE fireworks and festivities of Dubai.

On returning to Belgrade I made the Shangri-La well aware of my grievances and we both settled on two free nights accommodation at the Shangri-La, at a time of my choosing, and, a dinner for two, inclusive of a bottle of wine at their iKandy outdoor restaurant/poolside bar. More than 18 months after the event we had decided to cash in our chips.

Dubai isn't a city for everyone. On my first trip to the burgeoning centre of wild ideas, grand inspiration and engineering marvel, I left feeling more bemused than anything. Admittedly that first time was in 2006, and now, 13 years later, the growth steroids consumed by the emirate has transformed it into a monolithic characterisation of what capitalism does when it runs rampant on the back of petrodollars, human exploitation...and...wild ideas. There's a lot about how the system operates that probably should have me questioning my ethics but if I did that to absolutely everything in my life then where would I be?

View from iKandy @ the Shangri-La - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Where else would Inga be at 9:00am?

This is Inga letting me know exactly where she is

So really, Dubai is like a wondrous Disneyland without sinful overtones that would have align  to a town such as Las Vegas. It's grand, in many ways brash, it drips with money and privilege, sucking you into its realm of both the possible and impossible. For those that love a hot dry climate, then this place has it in spade. For those that love sheesha, great cuisine, cocktails bars, shopping, exploring and about any other touristic venture you can think of, then my, this is a place for you also.

When evening descends in Dubai the night scape scene morphs into something resembling  the dystopian city of LA out of Blade Runner. Not that Dubai is at all sinister or a place where you wouldn't want to spend time but there's something imposing and imperial about the long line of buildings presiding along Al Maktoum Road that both excites and imparts an atmosphere of mystery. It's enigmatic, puzzling at times but full of possibility, and to me, that a great quality for a city to have. Why wouldn't you want to go out and discover what a place such as this has to offer? A city doesn't have to be aesthetically pleasing to be engaging. I personally would rate Dubai as an attractive city, but, it has so much to keep you occupied, and sometimes that's all you need.

Shangri-La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri-La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri-La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

With all that said, having a 6 month old on your books means that you're restricted into what, where, when and how you can enjoy a place like this. On this occasion we mostly spent our time in the Shangri-La with only the odd excursion outside of the front doors. This was to be expected. Still, it doesn't diminish how I feel about Dubai now, nor will it dissuade me from making my way to this part of the world again soon. In my books, its a cool place to be for a time.

Saturday, September 7, 2019

Belgrade (Serbia) - All that you can't leave behind

Belgrade (Serbia)

06 September - 11 September 2019

It’s not such a long time ago that I was flying into Belgrade with my parents, an almost a yearly occurrence as a child, to catch-up with relatives, predominantly from my mother’s side of the family, but also from my father’s side as well. Flying into Belgrade from Barcelona on this occasion, brought back some of those same feelings, some of year ago and of course, of more recent times, having lived there for nearly 3 years.

Grandmother and grandson - Belgrade - Serbia

First grandson


                                Grandmother and grandson - Belgrade - Serbia

Of course introducing a new member of the family was somewhat of a big event, if for no one else, then for me specifically. Strange how the cycle of life can reinvent an old situation but give it a modern day twist. There I was, now the parent, going to visit my mother in Belgrade, and introducing her new grandson. That was both me, and her, some 45 years ago, the same actors, just playing different roles.

Belgrade in many ways has always felt like a second home to me. I’ve said that many times within this blog over the last 12-13 years of writing. That feeling has obviously been heightened by having been based there for an extended period of time. Whereas a child I was still really a visitor, returning now I felt more like an expat, and hey, now that I hold a Serbian passport that view is technically correct.

Bigz Cultural Centre - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Annija, Henry, Inga, Aiden & Davis - Knez Mihajlova - Belgrade - Serbia

There’s a lot I like about Belgrade. Of course it has its issues, proportionally more than many other European cities, but, it’s desperately underrated. Classically European in part, it also has a gritty, urban edge that’s becoming particularly trendy for travellers casting their eye further afield in order to look for something new. Not only that but value for money, for most travellers, is something that’s certain to be a draw card. For its night time culture, restaurants and hospitality, there’s a lot to savour. Whilst not aesthetically appealing as a whole there’s certainly some places where if you capture it in the right light or in the right mood you might just be surprised.

Bigz Cultural Centre - Belgrade - Serbia

Annija & Davis - Ima Dana - Skadarlija - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Ima Dana - Skadarlija - Belgrade - Serbia

 We spent a total of 5 days there. A few days a bit too short for me but a time frame that will likely become the norm into the future. As a child I always lamented our family’s lost opportunity of having access to the world, via my father’s employment with Qantas, but not taking advantage of that opportunity and utilising it only for bilateral purposes of bridging the time and space divide with annual family visits. There was so much more of the world that was available to us and yet our experiences never really extended further than the boundaries of Belgrade. Of course, personally, I’ve more than made up for that with my travels in the last 10 years, the inspiration of which I’m certain was rooted in both my travels as a child and my desires to see much more of what the world had to offer.

The usual suspects presented themselves during our stay. We saw the sights in Belgrade, spent an afternoon in Kosmaj, had ourselves an exceptional lunch in Frans, spent an evening in Skadarlija and introduced the little guy to his grandmothers side of the family. In addition, we also has a drop in visit from Davis and Annija who were kind enough to fly in from Riga for two nights just to catch up with me – which was a very cool thing of them to do.

Outbound flights to Dubai from Belgrade usually happen at 6:30am, it usually means leaving the apartment at latest 4:30am - so not a bad photo considering this is us at 4:00am


Our ride to Dubai - Air Serbia from Aerodrome Nikola Tesla - Belgrade - Serbia

A nice little 'flight bite' to commence proceedings

A great few days altogether and amazingly no arguments with my mother on this occasion. A rarity these days but I was more than thankful for the reprieve.