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Sunday, December 13, 2015

Canberra-Eden-Melbourne (AUSTRALIA) - Road trip through the wires

Canberra-Eden-Melbourne (Australia)
13 December - 20 December 2015


There's only two words I really want to say about Canberra...and the second word if Canberra.

I don't care about lake Burley Griffin, Parliament House, the High Court or the tree lined streets that lead to countless roundabouts. When that ever present haze of boredom descends on you once passing the Welcome to the A.C.T. signs then your only thought should be escaping out the other side.

Twenty years ago Canberra was my city of transience, a waypoint or a temporary blip on my way to the Snowy Mountains. It could never maintain my interest for more than 20 mins, other than the period of time where I had a fascination with the High Court. With that said, can this administrative and bureaucratic wonderland, that apparently has a population with the highest IQ, on average, of any Australian capital, not do any more to endear itself to the population which it leads? 


The best thing about Canberra - Australia
Kangaroo sightings

Kangaroos in the Australian Capital Territory
What else have you got? Nothing


The best thing about our stop in Canberra was that Inga finally got to see a few kangaroos! Finally, proof that they exist...and even they looked bored out of their minds, like there was some pervasive force field of boredom that managed to penetrate all sentient beings. 

Realising now that I've give Canberra far too many of my precious words, I'll move on.


Eden - New South Wales - Australia

The coastal route that we decided to adopt after Canberra took us down around Berry and then stopping in at the gorgeous Sapphire Coast town of Eden. For some reason I've always been drawn to this little town, there's something about its location and demeanour and its rich deep blue waters that somehow draw me in each time. On this occasion though Inga and I were treated to somewhat of a cosmic anomaly. Taking a walk along one of the many deserted beaches in the area we noticed a few 'shooting stars' cut across the night sky, separated by only a few mins. This event continued however, very unexpectedly and we were witness to, perhaps over the period of an hour, shooting stars appearing at a rate of one every couple of minutes. Personally I've never seen an event quite like that and wasn't aware of any known meteor shower that was scheduled for that evening. Not that it mattered to us. Each and every one of those falling stars had one of our wishes attached to it - it was almost as good as finding a genie in a bottle.


Melbourne - Victoria - Australia

Melbourne - Victoria - Australia

Melbourne - Victoria - Australia



And that led us back to Melbourne.

My second attempt at showcasing a prospective 'settlement city' was far more successful o this occasion than the month prior. Melbourne as we know is temperamental, at times verging on bipolar, and this can lead to disillusionment and disengagement. How can you fall for a city when it takes so much work? Like most relationships however it's only really the initial spark that's missing, the rest develops within its own framework, with both parties taking a little and giving. This time Melbourne gave us a reason as to why we may want to stay here. The weather was fantastic which facilitated happy movement around the city, which is all you really need here.

St.Kilda, Brunswick St, Carlton, Chapel St, bars, restaurants and style. What it doesn't have from Sydney it really doesn't need. It's charms are sometimes understated and sometimes hidden but its vibe is always hip and cool, it will beat any other Australian city in that department hands down.


Brunswick Street - Melbourne

San Telmo - Myers Place - Melbourne

San Telmo - Myers Place - Melbourne


For the few days that we stayed it was in a lovely apartment overlooking the Yarra, just across from Crown Casino. I recall Inga saying one night, 'You know, I wouldn't mind living here' - fast forward 4 years and hey presto, we now own an apartment across the street from where we were staying with virtually the same view, only on a much higher floor. In fact I've added the two views below just for a comparison.




One of the benefits of Melbourne's location is its proximity to 'cool stuff', as in, the Yarra Valley, the Grampians, Mornington Peninsula, and of course the Surf Coast & Shipwreck Coast, which is serviced by one of the most scenic drives on the planet, the Great Ocean Road. Running 243kms from Torquay to just outside of Warrnambool, this road passes alongside beaches, through forests and hugs the cliff lined coastline for great portions of the journey. An iconic drive of Australia, personally I've completed the ride more 10 times and consider it one of the great highlights from this part of Australia. As a passenger in a vehicle you are provided with smogasbord of majestic views as you weave in and out of the small bays and inlets that are scattered along the route.


The Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

The Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

The Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

The Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia


The day we chose to do the drive was marvellous. Scenic views for the whole journey, until we got about 20kms out from the 12 Apostles, which effectively is the pinnacle of all highlights along the road. Somehow a wicked wind picked up on the Southern Ocean bringing in a seaspray so large and dense that it blanketed the coastline like a deep fog. It was incredible. For anyone that had the 12 Apostles listed as their 'must see' Mother Nature just wiped it off the board with a brutally cruel sleight of hand. There's not much you can do in a scenario like that, except wait it out, if you have the time (which we did). So we bunkered down in the car park adjacent to the Apostles and bet on some better visibility in the morning. 


The Twelve Apostles - Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

The Twelve Apostles - Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

The Twelve Apostles - Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia


The Twelve Apostles - Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia

The Twelve Apostles - Great Ocean Road - Victoria - Australia


...and our plan worked

In a 20 minute early morning window of opportunism we took the rays of sunshine as meaning that visibility was improving. As fortune would have it we were right on the mark. We time our arrival to perfection. We didn't have more than 10 mins total of viewing time before the weather closed us out once again, masking the rock stacks which had stood so obviously and proudly just a moment before.

Sometimes instinct is all the luck you need.

Uluru - Kata Tjuta (AUSTRALIA) - Red sand


Alice Springs - Yulara - Uluru - Kata Tjuta - (Northern Territory - Australia)
07 December - 12 December 2015


There's not many places that can compare to what is offered by Central Australia, leaving Alice Springs out of that all encompassing statement of course because for all that is unique about this environment, the small town of Alice simply just does not live up to an of those expectations. As much as you want to say about outback Australia, the larconic, slow paced nature of them 'country' folk holds no real interest other than deliberately creating a place that inspires inane boredom. The best thing about Alice Springs is the drive out of town - apologies Alice, you're just not that interesting, even if once a year you run along a dry river with fake boats!

Our first mistake, not taking that damn right turn.

When your drive for over an hour, stop in a little country town and have a jackaroo give you the answer 'Hmm, you should have made a right hand turn just before the airport, you'll need to go back 100kms' - to the question - 'Can I get to Uluru from here'....you kind of know that you've made a bit of a blunder.



Jillaroo Inga - 'on the job' - Alice Springs - Northern Territory - Australia

Alice Springs - Northern Territory - Australia

Alice Springs - Northern Territory - Australia



Not the Sturt Highway!
But on our way to somewhere!?
Northern Territory - Australia


Lets back track a little and fill you in on the story.

My understanding was that Uluru was to be a 4-5hr run from Alice Springs on the Sturt Highway....now...that's the STURT HIGHWAY. I knew this. I'd travelled the Sturt Highway previously, I had an expectation of a comfortable run, and yet, about 30kms outside of the airport the highway I expected to be supporting our drive gave way to construction, which gave way to a wide dirt road. This didn't feel right. I mean, you're driving in Central Australia, you expect sand, dirt and flies but can you readily expect a highway to disappear from existence? Somehow I tricked myself into believing that the Sturt Highway was being rebuilt and put it down to the Northern Territory being the Northern Territory - dirt highways can be expected, no!?

That brings me to the small town of Santa Teresa which is nearly as remote as the town of Santa Theresa that I use to visit near Parque Ambue Ari in Bolivia (but that's another story). This town was established as a Catholic Mission in the 1950's, now, this town in the middle of nowhere has a permanent population of 555 inhabitants, which probably makes it a sizable town (for the Northern Territory). When we turned up there however it came on the back of a wrong turn in Alice Springs, a wrong turn just outside the airport in fact. When the jackeroos informed me of my mistake they had a bit of a laugh and said, 'If you keep going out that way you'll get yourself to the Simpson Desert'...Cheers boys, I'll keep that in mind.

An hour later we were back in Alice Springs after taking a 2hr detour. Left turn after the airport, onto the Sturt Highway - which looked bloody obvious now that I was on it.


The actual Sturt Highway - Northern Territory - Australia


Cruising the STURT Highway - Northern Territory - Australia


Mount Conner - Northern Territory - Australia


Three hours later we were on Mars!! This country is Martian red and that's no exaggeration. You just don't find colours like that anywhere else. A rich blood red that completely surrounds you. Impressive as it is desolate, this country is made for photography.



We made it to the Emu Walk apartments in Yulara a couple of hours before our first tour was set to commence, and this one was a gem. 

There's different ways to get up close and personal with Uluru. Bus tours, self drive, walking, all great options. But I chose something different for us. On this afternoon we jumped on the back of some fantastic Harley Davidsons (Harley Tour) and had ourselves a motor bike tour around the rock. Man, what a cool experience. These bikes are beasts and when they let them out on the long, straight lined NT rounds, there was nothing like the wind rushing past you as you traversed the landscape with Uluru acting as the gravitational pull.


Harley Tour - Uluru - Northern Territory - Australia

Harley tour - Uluru - Northern Territory - Australia

Uluru - Northern Territory - Australia

Uluru - Northern Territory - Australia

Uluru - Northern Territory - Australia


Uluru is impressive. Standing 863mtrs high and nearly 9.4kms around its base, its imposing, especially in such a flat landscape. Even more so than its statistics however is its colour, both on its own and with the rays of a setting sun beating down on it. As we parked the Harleys at one of the many viewing points and watched the sun fall, the colours changes and shifts were unfathomable. Deep, rich colours set against the typical outback blue sky, punctuated by some dry greenery of the desert landscape, engaging in both its mood and presence. 

Enjoying a complimentary bottle of champagne the moment was truly enjoyable. 


Cruising back to Yulara

Pulling 130km + in the outback


Yulara - Northern Territory - Australia

Yulara - Northern Territory - Australia

Yulara - Northern Territory - Australia

The next day we headed out to Kata Tjuta, also known as the Olgas. These are a set of large ochre coloured dome formations both intriguing and mesmerising, and in some way, more interesting than Uluru. The issue however, which is replicated at Uluru, are the amount of flies in the area. It actually gets to sickening proportions and ends up detracting from the entire experience. Apparently in the Winter months its not bad at all but he we were on the precipice of Summer and whoa, it was awful. My advice to anyone that wants to know, invest in some fly nets! Repellent won't do anything but fly nets will be the investment that just keeps on giving.


Kata Tjuta - Northern Territory - Australia

Fly spray - WASTED - you can't kill over a BILLION of them

Kata Tjuta - Northern Territory - Australia


That evening we spent an absolutely magical few hours at the Sounds of Silence dinner experience. It's an event where the desert pretty much becomes your dining room and all that protects you is the canopy of the night sky. Starting with a few glasses of champagne prior to dinner, we were lead to a beautiful 'dining room' with Uluru framing the backdrop majestically. Sitting down to a gorgeous three course meal, with indigenous performers and then a fascinating walk through the universe in complete darkness by a local astronomer, the experience was magical. Whilst the price of $225 p/person sounds quite high, as a total experience I would more than recommend it to anyone, and, would be more than willing to do it again.


Drinks prior to the Sounds of Silence dinner - Yulara - Northern Territory - Australia

Sounds of Silence - Northern Territory - Australia

Uluru - Northern Territory - Australia

What its like to get a feel of Mars



Sounds of Silence dinner - Yulara - Northern Territory - Australia

Sounds of Silence - Northern Territory - Australia


On our final day we got up before sunrise and made our way out to Uluri to watch the sun weave its own magic on the rock. Seriously, what else can you add other than to state the obvious, a truly impressive experience to watch the change of moods and almost feel as though this inanimate object is alive. 

As the morning extended on we decided to walk our way around the base of Uluru in its entirety. Now, I'm not much into spiritual things and I waiver more to the side of disbelieving, but as you may know, there are areas around Uluru that are held sacred to the Aboriginals and specific sites were it is requested that photos not be taken. About half way around the base we encountered one of those areas and for some reason we wanted to take a photo, I can't recall why, and even still, in this day of technical excellence and expertise, somehow the cameras on our phones failed. The photos that we took were blurred or had severe technical issues. Call it coincidence or call it something else altogether but it felt as though we were being given a direct message.


Uluru - early morning

Uluru starting to wake up

 Sturt Highway - don't hit your kangaroos when travelling at 150kms....it's going to be bad news all round

Storm coming in over the desert - Northern Territory - Australia

In total we spent three days in Yulara and the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, for me, an absolute must for anyone that wants to see 'something else' outside of the major cities. In all honesty I'd be hard pressed to split either Uluru or the Great Barrier Reef as a preference. Both are remarkable places and should be enjoyed for all that they offer. No need to doubt, just get yourself there!

Friday, November 27, 2015

Great Barrier Reef (AUSTRALIA) - if it's big then it must be GREAT!

Airlie Beach / Reefsleep / Great Barrier Reef / Shute Harbour - (Queensland - Australia)
27 November - 01 December 2015

How great are things in Australia?

We have things that in our mind are so large, so extensive, that any other word other than 'Great' would just not do the place, location or thing justice.



There's substantial mountain range on our Eastern coast that runs over 3500 kilometres from Southern Queensland to Central Victoria. It's so impressive and formidable that imbued them with a name that befits their 'greatness', the GREAT Dividing Range.

On our Southern coastline there's an enormous open bay. It's of epic proportions, the aftermath of Gondwana breaking apart from Antarctica. So extensive, so formidable that we called it the GREAT Australian Bight.

....so, there's a road on the Victorian Coastline. It winds along a gorgeous part of the Australian coastline. In fact it's known as one of the best drives on the planet. The road is known as the GREAT Ocean Road, and well, you can probably figure out for yourself how and why the name came about.

How about the GREAT Barrier Reef then ...how about it?




Landing at Prosperine Airport - Queensland - Australia


Airlie Beach - Queensland - Australia



The largest living thing on earth, visible from space, a 2300km ecosystem comprising thousands of reefs, islands, multitudes of fish and sea life in every conceivable colour. It is one of THE draw cards of Australia. Outside of the major cities of Sydney and Melbourne this would have to rank as the most impressive site that we have, and without question, worthy of utilising 'Great' to adequately describe its inherent beauty and complexity.

I'd never been this far north on the Eastern coastline. In many ways I'd vetoed my rights to explore Australia by placing other less well known, less formidable places in front of what was homegrown. An unnecessary and in some ways ill considered bias. So our visit up here was as much about me discovering what Australia had to offer as opposed to showing Inga the lay of the land.


Airlie Beach - Queensland - Australia

Airlie Beach - Queensland - Australia


Our first port of call was Airlie Beach. A cute resort town on the Whitsunday coast, smack in between the major towns of Mackay & Townsville. Typically Queensland in style, you walk the streets in shorts, thongs & singlet, anything more labels you as a foreigner, or worse, someone from the Southern states. 


In Airlie Beach we stayed at a place called the Withsunday Forest Retreat. Holy cow, it was insane. Aside from the fantastic views out onto Pioneer Bay, the house itself was just unbelievable. Perched high on a hill, surrounded by lush deep green vegetation, the house, for an AirBnB was so far beyond what you could expect to encounter. A swimming pool in the living room, a pool table, cavernous and vast, the walking in wardrobe for our room was bigger that the our living room in Seven Hills. In Sydney a house like that would see you parting with $3-$4 million, but up here, maybe $1.5m or so. It was a sight, let me tell you.

After a couple of nights in Airlie I'd booked us to head out to reef and spend one night on a pontoon, floating right alongside the reef, sleeping in a 'swag' and just admiring the stars. This for me was one of THE highlights of our time in Australia. If you're interested in reading more then I'd suggest you have a look at the link here -  ReefSleep.


ReefSleep - The Great Barrier Reef - Queensland - Australia

ReefSleep - The Great Barrier Reef - Queensland - Australia

ReefSleep - The Great Barrier Reef - Queensland - Australia



ReefSleep - The Great Barrier Reef - Queensland - Australia




ReefSleep - Great Barrier Reef - Queensland - Australia


ReefSleep - Great Barrier Reef - Queensland - Australia

The cruise from Airlie Beach our to the reef took perhaps an hour. Thankfully mother nature had conjured up a treat and produced two gorgeous days for us to fully enjoy the experience, and my, wasn't it impressive. 50kms off the coast our boat pulled up a large pontoon that rested in an azure sea of tranquility. The surface looked liked glass, so calm and settled. It was hard to believe that you were so far off the coastline and the only movement being created was from the boat docking onto the pontoon.

During the day there's quite a number of visitors to the pontoon, not that it makes the stay uncomfortable. There's plenty of opportunity to get up close and personal with the reef, which we did. With wet suits and snorkelling apparatus provided it only took a few moments to discover the full wonder of what lay beneath the water....and my, what a discovery. Surreal colours, startlingly vibrant, remarkable in their intensity. Fish of all shapes and sizes and coral so spectacular that other places that I'd visited previously, by comparison, simply don't rate....not even close. This place was and is a marvel of creation and I'd truly done myself a complete injustice by not having made it to this part of the world sooner.



ReefSleep - Great Barrier Reef - Queensland - Australia


The true reward of the Reefsleep is what you get when the masses depart back to Airlie. Complete ownership of the lagoon. Due to the restriction of numbers the total people on for that afternoon were myself and Inga, a girl from Sweden, Greg Grainger, Russian free diving champion and actress Marina Kazankova, their 2 man film crew and pontoon staff. It made for a thoroughly pleasurable afternoon. The waters that had previously had tens of swimmers were now all ours. The serenity and quiet of the moment allowed us to experience the reef at our own leisure, enjoying what was beneath the water and also just floating in a sea of calm. An unparalleled experience.

As the sun dropped to in the West we had ourselves a truly magnificent sunset, fiery reds, burnt oranges and hints of purple over. We sat there in awe, the pontoon hardly even moving, as we sat back and soaked in our surrounds. With the sun falling away the moon rose from the East casting a bright powerful light across the seascape. It also just so happened, as Marina advised us, that we were in the right location to witness the coral spawning. This was a once in a year event taking place on the full moon in November, it was the reason that the film crew were staying on the pontoon as they were awaiting the chance to film for a documentary.



 Shute Harbour - Queensland - Australia
Shute Harbour - Queensland - Australia

That night we spent on the top deck in our swags, looking straight up at the night sky. Not a bad day in Queensland I have to say.


The next day on the pontoon was much the same. After breakfast the boats came in at around 10am. We spent most of the day lounging about, not really rushed and just making the most of the gorgeous setting. Around 4pm we made our way back to Airlie and to our new digs in Shute Harbour.

Shute Harbour was a nice enough area itself. If were had a vehicle with us then it would have been thoroughly enjoyable but due to the lack of regular transport it made the hike to and from Airlie Beach somewhat arduous. Next time I'd do that a little different.

Still, the show stopper here is the Great Barrier Reef and all I can say is that it's a MUST!