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Saturday, September 7, 2019

Belgrade (Serbia) - All that you can't leave behind

Belgrade (Serbia)

06 September - 11 September 2019

It’s not such a long time ago that I was flying into Belgrade with my parents, an almost a yearly occurrence as a child, to catch-up with relatives, predominantly from my mother’s side of the family, but also from my father’s side as well. Flying into Belgrade from Barcelona on this occasion, brought back some of those same feelings, some of year ago and of course, of more recent times, having lived there for nearly 3 years.

Grandmother and grandson - Belgrade - Serbia

First grandson


                                Grandmother and grandson - Belgrade - Serbia

Of course introducing a new member of the family was somewhat of a big event, if for no one else, then for me specifically. Strange how the cycle of life can reinvent an old situation but give it a modern day twist. There I was, now the parent, going to visit my mother in Belgrade, and introducing her new grandson. That was both me, and her, some 45 years ago, the same actors, just playing different roles.

Belgrade in many ways has always felt like a second home to me. I’ve said that many times within this blog over the last 12-13 years of writing. That feeling has obviously been heightened by having been based there for an extended period of time. Whereas a child I was still really a visitor, returning now I felt more like an expat, and hey, now that I hold a Serbian passport that view is technically correct.

Bigz Cultural Centre - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Annija, Henry, Inga, Aiden & Davis - Knez Mihajlova - Belgrade - Serbia

There’s a lot I like about Belgrade. Of course it has its issues, proportionally more than many other European cities, but, it’s desperately underrated. Classically European in part, it also has a gritty, urban edge that’s becoming particularly trendy for travellers casting their eye further afield in order to look for something new. Not only that but value for money, for most travellers, is something that’s certain to be a draw card. For its night time culture, restaurants and hospitality, there’s a lot to savour. Whilst not aesthetically appealing as a whole there’s certainly some places where if you capture it in the right light or in the right mood you might just be surprised.

Bigz Cultural Centre - Belgrade - Serbia

Annija & Davis - Ima Dana - Skadarlija - Belgrade - Serbia

Restoran Frans - Belgrade - Serbia

Ima Dana - Skadarlija - Belgrade - Serbia

 We spent a total of 5 days there. A few days a bit too short for me but a time frame that will likely become the norm into the future. As a child I always lamented our family’s lost opportunity of having access to the world, via my father’s employment with Qantas, but not taking advantage of that opportunity and utilising it only for bilateral purposes of bridging the time and space divide with annual family visits. There was so much more of the world that was available to us and yet our experiences never really extended further than the boundaries of Belgrade. Of course, personally, I’ve more than made up for that with my travels in the last 10 years, the inspiration of which I’m certain was rooted in both my travels as a child and my desires to see much more of what the world had to offer.

The usual suspects presented themselves during our stay. We saw the sights in Belgrade, spent an afternoon in Kosmaj, had ourselves an exceptional lunch in Frans, spent an evening in Skadarlija and introduced the little guy to his grandmothers side of the family. In addition, we also has a drop in visit from Davis and Annija who were kind enough to fly in from Riga for two nights just to catch up with me – which was a very cool thing of them to do.

Outbound flights to Dubai from Belgrade usually happen at 6:30am, it usually means leaving the apartment at latest 4:30am - so not a bad photo considering this is us at 4:00am


Our ride to Dubai - Air Serbia from Aerodrome Nikola Tesla - Belgrade - Serbia

A nice little 'flight bite' to commence proceedings

A great few days altogether and amazingly no arguments with my mother on this occasion. A rarity these days but I was more than thankful for the reprieve.


Tuesday, September 3, 2019

Barcelona (Spain) - Under the Iberian sun

Barcelona (Spain)

03 September - 06 September 2019

It’s quite easy to fall for the charms of Barcelona. Sun-drenched beaches, the deep blue Mediterranean sea in its front yard, stunning architecture, a magnificent culinary landscape and outstanding bar culture – distilled influences of other global centres inhabiting hidden corners of alleyways and secret squares. Vibrant, dynamic and lively. A 24 hour city who is equally as comfortable under the rays of a beating sun as it is with guidance of dimmed moonlight. It has everything you want from a European city, as well as being Spanish (…sort of…but lets not get into the independence debate).

Barri Gotic - Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic - Barcelona - Spain

Las Ramblas - Barcelona - Spain

This is heaven

Mercado de La Boqueria - Barcelona - Spain

Casa Battlo - Barcelona - Spain

Casa Battlo - Barcelona - Spain

Casa Battlo - Barcelona - Spain

It’s always pleasing to come to Barcelona. If feels like a city that’s on perpetual vacation and the atmosphere of the city doesn’t do anything to dispel that myth from any of its visitors.

On this occasion with Inga’s family and a little 6 month in tow, access to many of the things that I love about this city had to be tempered. Not that I’m complaining but it does shut down a lot about the late-night culture that makes this part of the world so quintessentially Iberian. Afternoon siestas, late night dinners, late night drinking, bar hopping and having the early morning sun guide you home. There’s something liberating about having such a great time that the sunshine demands your attention as it casts aside the veil of nighttime inhibition.

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

La Sagrada Familia - Barcelona - Spain

Barcelona wasn’t born with a gold shoreline. The dearth of anything resembling the beautiful carefree spot of Barceloneta and accompanying beaches heading north on the shoreline was something of a black spot prior to the 1992 Olympics. The area had in fact been quite the neglected corner of this one city. Having turned its back on the pot of gold that standing at its doorstep it took the impetus of global focus to inspire the transformation which activated a change that would add a new, inspirational dimension to this city. So with all that said, it was quite easy to identify where three Latvians would spend their daylight hours in this town. Being Australian and quite sensitive to the dangers of anything UV related, 1.5 Australians spent their time in the relative safety of shaded bars supported by various concoctions of alcohol that obviously substituted the fear of sun damage for an equally damaging vice.

Plaza de San Felipe Neri - Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

M10  Montcada Hotel - Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain



Barcelona - Spain


How good does that look


The little guy - Barcelona - Spain

Our time in Barcelona whilst different to what I’ve usually been accustomed to was still full of most things that you’d expect out of a visit. Visits to Gaudi inspired buildings, gawking at the fabulous wares in markets, judging the various types of sangria on offer and tapping into the plethora of tapas that that accost your senses.

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

Barri Gotic- Barcelona - Spain

Hard Rock Cafe
Hard Rock Cafe - Barcelona - Spain

Barcelona is one of the great cities of Europe, that is undeniable. I’m already looking forward to our next visit.

Monday, September 2, 2019

Granada (Spain) - The Alhambra - Generalife

Granada (Spain)

02 September 2019

The Alhambra is an ode to Moorish architecture and culture, set amongst the pensive Sierra Nevada mountains. This place has gone through various incantations, casting its magical charm on all those that have gazed upon it and wondered through its halls of intricacy & artistry. I often wonder as to how majestic places such as these, along their historical timeline, seem as some point to simply vanish from existence. Take for example Angkor Wat & Machu Picchu, both marvels that simply vanished,  lost to the world for centuries before being rediscovered. So too the Alhambra. Having fallen into disrepair over centuries, the building for one period of time was even occupied by squatters. It’s unfathomable to even consider that as a possibility for a residence of such heritage and splendour.

The drive from Malaga (Spain) to the Alhambra in Granada (Spain)


                                            Map of the Alhambra - Granada - Spain

The origins of the Alhambra, whose name derives from the Arabic, al-qala’a al-hamra (the Red Castle), is mired in mystery. Some of its earliest references point to the construction of a small Roman fortress, approximately 900CE, but some of its buildings are understood to even pre-date that time frame. Having fallen into disrepair once again (well, actually for the first time, but the second occasion in this story), it was the Emirate of Granada that built the current palace and its walls of intricate beauty.


                                                    Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Generalife- Granada - Andalusia - Spain


The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain


The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain


Having fallen in love with Spain many years ago I had never made it further south than Madrid. I can’t answer right now as to why that’s been the case, shouldn’t Andalusia have been a mighty draw card? Yes, of course. Even on this occasion, the little tid-bit of time that we spent in this culturally rich part of Spain has only been enough to wet the appetite and sponsor further daydreams of fabulous Andalusian culture, cuisine and geography. With that said, the one deal-breaker I had on our travails through Andalusia was to see the Alhambra. If we couldn’t see it, then hell, I didn’t want to step foot in Southern Spain at all (not entirely true of course).

Only a short 120+ km drive out of Malaga, the total drive time to Granada was just on 90 mins. Extremely easy, great freeways and direct. We had booked in for a 3hr guided walking tour at 9am, and having left Malaga at a little after 7:30am, had arrived pretty settled in the car park right on our starting time.

Generalife - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

Generalife - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

Granada - Andalusia - Spain

At this time of year the Southern part of Spain can heat up like a pinata party at a Mexican quinceanera, you just can’t be assured as to where the fevered hits will come from. Also with a 6-month old we needed as tactical as possible with regards to our movements. Thankfully we were blessed with a reasonably mild morning and a baby that felt this site was well worth skipping. As Aiden slept we made our way through the Generalife, a Summer estate for the Sultan, featuring elegant rectangular plots with subtle water features, fragrant gardens, glorious trees casting shade and an immaculate view over the town and to the mountains beyond. The only problem I saw with the whole ‘set-up’ is that the Sultan’s Summer Residence is about 5-10 mins walk from the main palace. Imagine putting the question to the Sultan each year;

 ‘Well Your Majesty, do you have any plans for the Summer?

‘What do you think Khalil, I’m heading off just over there, AGAIN. Why didn’t I think to build my Summer hang out somewhere else? Oh yes, I know it’s soooo convenient, but hell, I never get to see or doing anything, it’s like being in a Melbourne lock down, Ellen DeGeneres style, you feeling me Khalil?’

Not entirely Your Majesty, Aisha and I live in a small hut with our goats and chickens all year round’

‘Aha, so you get it, am I right Khalil!’

‘Yes your Majesty, you are an insightful G’

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Palacio Nazaries was of course stunning. Divided into three main areas, Mexuar, Serallo and the Harem, each has its own identity, some parts with highly decorative ceilings, extremely intricate woodwork on the walls, particular plastering and paint schemes, the whole site is more than just impressive. It’s an enduring vestige of Muslim art and culture in this area that has preserved through a myriad of contra periods. For this reason it remains as one of Spain’s major tourist attractions as it exhibits the country’s most significant and well known Islamic architecture in impeccable condition. From a personal point of view, I feel more than privileged to have been able to walk through the grounds and experience the entire setting, even for a relatively brief period of time. I could well understand how our guide, a Dr, wrote their thesis on the architecture of the Alhambra and has dedicated their life to its ongoing discovery and the tales of its wonders.


The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

Aiden & Inga - The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

Aiden, Inga & Zaiga - The Alhambra - Granada - Andalusia - Spain

Thank you, Andalusia. You are an area of rugged beauty and architectural splendour. When the doors to your world re-opens I’ll certainly be one of the first to walk back through them.