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Friday, July 21, 2017

Salvador de Bahia (Brasil)

SALVADOR DE BAHIA (Brasil)
21 July 2017 - 26 July 2017


Known for its Portuguese architecture, its heady mix of Afro-Brazilian culture and tropical coastline, Salvador de Bahia is something different to what Inga & I had come across thus far in Brazil. I was really looking forward to discovering this city, in particular the bright and animated neighbourhood of Pelourinho. This area sits quite pronounced as the beating heart of this energetic, zestful and vigorous town.

Our accommodation, at the Bahiacafe Hotel, was situated exquisitely on the edge of Pelourinho which made access to the cobblestone streets, baroque churches, wondrous buildings and the large squares very easy.

Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil


The city itself was founded in 1549 and was both the first, and, long time capital of Brasil. Additionally it is recognised as one of the oldest cities in the Americas. It was also one of the very first slave ports in the Americas, the African influence of which is extremely pervasive within the culture, food, music and tempo of the city.

In terms of local geography there is a significant escarpment that divides the upper town district of Pelourinho (Cidade Alta) from the lower town (Cidade Baixa), in fact that divide is 85mtrs straight up, which if you're living on the edge  up in Pelourinho means that you're granted some significant views over the gorgeous Bay of All Saints.

Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

Bahiacafe Hotel - Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil


O Cravinho Bar - Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil


Our route of discovery was guiding simply by our desire wonder through the streets of Pelourinho, although our first hiccup came when we found a bar by the name of O Cravinho. Selling cachaca in various flavours and also having a pretty decent selection of food, this place become our go to for drinks and food on a fairly regular basis.

The fabulous colours of the Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

Whatever this mamma was selling was just so damn tasty - Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

Braids for days - Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil


O Cravinho Bar - Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

O Cravinho Bar - Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

O Cravinho Bar - Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil


In the times that we did managed to get away from O Cravinho we found a beautiful old district who's charm, beauty and ambience made for something very special. Again, the pervasive samba rhythms filtered through these cobble stone streets constantly and the colourful pastel type buildings made for a food of fun and frivolity. The only down side, which I discovered from research is that the colours of the buildings, as they are currently, exist in a manufactured state. That being that in the 1990's a significant restoration effort of the area took to removing over 4000 Afro-Bahians and turning it into a pastel-hued tourist attraction. Admittedly that's what is is now, a tourist attraction but an impressive one at that.

O Cravinho Bar - Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil

Pelourinho neighbourhood - Salvador de Bahia - Brasil


Outside of Pelourinho we did allow ourselves to head down to Praia do Porto do Barra a few times, which was a nice place in itself. A cool, cafe style beach set with a pleasant surrounding, we did what we usually did when down on the beach - took in some sun, added the caipirinhas and enjoyed the view.

Undeniably special its its cultural roots, Salvador was definitely a city that was worth visiting and I'm glad we made the time to discover it.


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