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Showing posts with label Cabo da Roca. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cabo da Roca. Show all posts

Saturday, October 21, 2017

Lisbon (Portugal) - Mass tourism, cool geography

Lisbon (Portugal)
21 October – 26 October 2017

There’s a lot to love about Lisbon. There’s a charm, elegance and a type of ‘time has forgotten’ type of feel to some its parts, then there’s the bold and modern challengers attempting to make their own statements as to the future of the city.  For me, it’s the city centre and the warren of streets around Alfama, sited below the imperious and impressive Castelo de Sao Jorge, that makes this town what it is. Couple that with Barrio Alto which feels like the centre of the universe for bars and restaurants and Baixa which acts as the connector between these wonderful areas, and my, you have the makings of a mighty fine city full of beauty, beguiling charm and some other intangible quality that lets you breath it in fully.


Baixa - Lisbon - Portugal

Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

View over Baixa to Alfalma and Castelo De Sao Jorge - Lisbon - Portugal


For me personally, I love Alfalma, a labyrinth and maze of narrow streets that seems to wrap around the base of the hill where Castelo de Sao Jorge resides. It’s atmospheric and contains a part of Lisbon that in many ways is now the ‘oddity’ of the city rather than what’s common place, but in that sense, that’s the way cities are these days, those older, more genuine, authentic areas are no longer that, they’re relics that are preserved for tourists and as such are become parodies of their former, younger selves.

We occupied a room in a lovely boutique hotel on the border of Baixa and Barrio Alto. Perfectly located and quite handy for the view out to the Tagus, which to me, always seems to be reflecting the sun like glass back into the city and lighting it up in that typically Iberian way.


Elevador de Santa Justa - Baixa - Lisbon - Portugal

Lisbon - Portugal

View of Lisbon from near Castelo De Sao Jorge - Lisbon - Portugal

View of Lisbon from near Castelo De Sao Jorge - Lisbon - Portugal

Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

We had this Jeep for our tour of Lisbon

Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

The Magical Mystery, now into its third city, was not just about arriving at destinations, we had plans to. Quite a few of them. From food tours, to city tours, to a night of Fado, we were able to get a look and feel of Lisbon from a number of angles and enjoyed the culinary delights, of which there are absolutely plenty.

Pastel de nata, I mean how good are these. Portuguese custard tarts in egg pastry, dusted with cinnamon. Delightful, moreish and just too difficult to resist. Then there’s the Bolinhos de bacalau, made from a mixture of potato & codfish, deep fried and absolutely exquisite. My own favourite and the king of discoveries which came from our first foodie tour was Bacalhau a Bras,  a dish made from shreds of salted cod, onions and thinly sliced potatoes, all bound up in scrambled eggs! This literally was THE BEST, I absolutely loved it. It’s said that the dish was to have originated in Barrio Alto, which is not so hard to believe considering this area is your major hub for all activities nocturnal.


Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

Torre de Belem - Belem - Lisbon - Portugal

Pastel de Nata - Lisbon - Portugal

Baixa - Lisbon - Portugal

Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

On another one of our foodie tours we crossed the Targus to an area named Ginjal and spent some time at a typical restaurant by the name of Farol. It was there we were introduced to Vinho Verde (Green Wine). This is white wine that originates from the historic northern province of Minho. These wines are delightful, fresh, fruity and floral, and somehow just serves as the perfect accompaniment to Portuguese food.





Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

ABSOLUTELY

Hard Rock Cafe - Lisbon - Portugal

Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

Alfalma - Lisbon - Portugal

Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

Outside of Lisbon itself we did take the time to make to the village of Sintra, known for its 19th Century Romanticist architecture, historic estates, villas and of course numerous royal palaces. The most well known being the Pena Palace, of the same architectural style, the castle itself occupies a hill above the town of Sintra and has unbelievable views all the way out to the Atlantic Coast. Apparently its said that on a clear day it  can be seen from Lisbon some 30kms away, considering its colour scheme I’d say that I’m not entirely surprised. The build is actually an intentional mix of a variety of styles, Neo-Gothic, Neo-Islamic, Neo-Renaissance, and also has references to other historical and significant buildings in Lisbon, such as the Belem tower, which itself if a 16th century fortification and occupies pride of place on the Targus, in Belem of course.


National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal

National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal

                                            National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal


National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal

National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal

National Palace of Pena - Sintra - Portugal

The most westerly point in Europe - Cabo da Roca - Portugal

Cascais - Portugal

Cabo da Roca - Portugal


Now, Lisbon isn’t just ALL GOOD, it has its problems, and it appears, it has its problems with people like me directly. They are, along with Venice  & Barcelona, one of the cities pushing back against mass tourism. Damage to residents’ culture, heritage and day-to-day lives is becoming a substantial issue. Being the victim of your own popularity is of course detrimental to those that need to work, live and play in the space every day.


Alfalma - 'Mass Tourism Kills Lisbon'
Apologies, we are killing you softly

Tram 28 Lisbon - such a scenic run
But look for yourself, all tourists...

Baixa/Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal

Barrio Alto - Lisbon - Portugal


Responsible tourism is now ‘a thing’ and the need to factor in sustainability for the sake of these cherished locations is a must. And to an extent I get that. Go to Venice, Dubrovnik or the Vatican on any day of the week and your involvement is nothing more than standing in an endless queue that progresses slowly around the location you’re visiting. High season in places like these are brutal…absolutely brutal, so truly, God help the population that live it day in and day out.

I don’t know what answers Lisbon will conjure up in its search for balance, all that I know is that we’ll be back, if in fact we’re welcome.