Please utilise this space to search this blog

Showing posts with label Colombo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Colombo. Show all posts

Monday, January 12, 2026

Male (Maldives) - Siyam World - (Maldives) - Where heaven has a competitor

Male (Maldives) & Siyam World (Maldives)

12 January - 19 January 2026

I’m back at the bottom of my childhood swimming pool in Seven Hills, face turned upward, suspended in a kind of borrowed stillness.

Above me, the world is whole in a way I cannot fully access. I know that at the surface there is certainty — sharp lines of sunlight, the unmistakable geometry of trees, the quiet confidence of things existing exactly as they are meant to. Beauty, too, but a clean kind of beauty, unfractured. Everything above the waterline feels decided.

Down here, it is different. Everything arrives softened. Light dissolves into something slower before it reaches me. Edges lose their insistence. Even time feels negotiated rather than declared. I know I have time — but it is not entirely mine. It is held in suspension, lent to me in exchange for patience. I stay down longer than instinct suggests I should, not because it is easy, but because I understand that endurance can be its own kind of preparation.

This is how the year felt. A kind of deliberate breath-holding. A quiet, concentrated effort to remain submerged in the necessary uncertainty, trusting that what I could not yet see clearly was still forming above me. There was comfort in it, strangely — the simplicity of one choice repeated: stay, hold, continue. And yet there was challenge too, the subtle tightening reminder that clarity was waiting, just not here.

Then, eventually, the return.

Breaking the surface is not gradual. It is an arrival disguised as an instant. Air becomes immediate. Sound sharpens. Colour stops being an idea and becomes something almost excessive in its clarity. The world doesn’t just reappear , it asserts itself. The Maldives felt like that moment stretched outward, held open just long enough to notice everything changing at once.

Flight from Male to Siyam World - Maldives

Flight from Male to Siyam World - Maldives

The water giving away to the warmth. Not just temperature, but an atmosphere of — a kind of collective exhale shared by everyone arriving from 'somewhere else', each of us quietly recalibrating the pace we had been holding onto. There is a subtle recognition in that space: that we have all come from submerged places, from versions of life that required restraint, waiting, and endurance.

And here, finally, nothing asks to be held back but also, the reward is very much worthwhile.

Some four hours earlier, this moment had existed as an elevated time of foreshadowing. We had been standing beneath the artificial fluorescence of Bandaranaike International Airport, participants in that peculiar choreography unique to early morning departures — the subdued urgency of passports being checked and rechecked, the silent arithmetic of luggage weight, the negotiated balance between exhaustion and excitement. Airports at that hour rarely feel entirely real. They exist in a liminal state, suspended somewhere between conclusion and beginning.

Early morning at Bandaranaike International Airport - Colombo - Sri Lanka
The Pakistan T20 team were on their way home after a game....and left a trophy behind 😆

There is always an anxiety threaded through departure. Not fear exactly, but compression. Time narrows. Every movement feels governed by countdowns and consequence. Even the smallest rituals, zipping a suitcase closed, watching a boarding gate flicker alive, hearing the dull percussion of roller bags across terminal tiles seem charged with disproportionate importance. 'Outro packing', airport arrivals, departures; all of it driven by anticipation more than logic.

And yet anticipation has its own velocity. It pulls people forward before they are ready.

The portal to a new world - the airbridge from the terminal to our flight - Bandaranaike International Airport - Colombo - Sri Lanka

By the time we left Colombo behind us, the morning already felt like something partially survived. The body remained tired, but the mind had crossed ahead, reaching instinctively toward somewhere warmer, slower, less burdened by structure. The Maldives existed then not yet as reality, but as a promise suspended just over the horizon line, 'breaking through the surface'.

Exiting the airport, we were transferred toward the seaplane terminal, that curious threshold where the Maldives begins to separate itself from the ordinary world. Most resorts maintain their own private lounges here — curated sanctuaries of cool air, muted lighting and practiced hospitality — and it is within these spaces that the transition truly begins.

Not arrival exactly, but surrender.

Seaplane departure wharves - Male - Maldives

Trans Maldivian Airways - ready to go - Male - Maldives

You feel it almost immediately. The gradual loosening of tension accumulated elsewhere. The subtle understanding that the practical architecture of daily life , schedules, obligations, unread emails, domestic negotiations, the thousand invisible mechanics that sustain adulthood — no longer holds immediate jurisdiction here. Somewhere between the terminal entrance and the second offered drink, reality itself begins to soften around the edges.

You are now entering the world of the Maldivian private island guest, where the demands of ordinary existence are quietly checked at the lounge door alongside your luggage. Beyond this point, joy becomes strangely centralised. Time reorganises itself around sunlight, ocean gradients, slow breakfasts and the possibility of doing very little without guilt. Happiness here is intentionally constructed and distilled into turquoise water, impossible villas, folded towels, infinity pools and the hypnotic repetition of Indian Ocean horizons.

Of course none of this is real. Not really.

Not in the sustainable language of ordinary life which demands that evening dinners are assembled whilst tired, school drop-offs negotiated against traffic, family budgets stretched across invisible pressures, accumulated sleep deprivation worn quietly like a second skin. The Maldives exists outside those mechanics. It is less a place than a beautifully co-conspired fabrication of “best life” mythology; a temporary architecture of aspiration that social media has elevated into something resembling permanence.

Instagram, perhaps more than anywhere else on earth, has rehearsed this fantasy endlessly. The idea that somewhere, somehow, life can remain suspended in perpetual sunset, barefoot luxury uninterrupted by consequence. We know this isn’t true. That’s precisely what makes it seductive.

There is something almost comforting in knowingly participating in the illusion.

A line from U2 drifted into my mind somewhere between espresso machines and runway views: “Every gambler knows that to lose is what you’re really there for.” Perhaps travel contains some parallel instinct. We arrive knowing the feeling cannot last, that eventually the surface tension of reality will reclaim us, and yet we pursue these moments anyway, not despite their impermanence, but because of it. Or perhaps we are simply here to torture ourselves blissfully for a little while.

Sitting inside the seaplane, the engines roared into life with such force that they almost overwhelmed coherent thought itself. Conversation dissolved beneath the mechanical thunder, replaced instead by exchanged glances, nervous smiles and the unmistakable electricity of collective anticipation. Across from me, both Inga and Aiden looked around the cabin wide-eyed, fully immersed in the excitement of the moment and I realised I was suspended inside that same feeling with them.

This was no longer planning.

Maldivian pilots fly barefoot apparently - in the skies of the Maldives

Trans Maldivian Airlines flight - Male to Sun Siyam - Maldives

No longer browser tabs, comparison spreadsheets, saved images or quiet calculations about budgets and timing. The endless choreography of preparation, saving and anticipation had finally collapsed into the present tense. We were in it now.

As the barefooted Maldivian pilots throttled forward and the seaplane broke free from the water’s resistance, the world outside seemed to sharpen in real time, as though memory itself was being edited live as I watched it happen. Colours intensified beyond what felt entirely believable. The Indian Ocean revealed itself in impossible gradients — deep, endless blues interrupted suddenly by luminous rings of turquoise so vivid they appeared digitally enhanced, as if the reefs and scattered islets beneath us had been rendered with unnatural saturation.

From above, the Maldives barely looked terrestrial. It resembled something imagined rather than geographical; fragments of paradise suspended delicately between ocean and sky.

And perhaps that is its real seduction.

Not simply beauty, but improbability. The unsettling sensation that somewhere this perfect should not entirely exist within the same world as deadlines, traffic lights, supermarket aisles and alarm clocks. If heaven competes with anything on earth, surely it would begin here.

Descending toward our home base for the next week, Siyam World gradually entered the frame of the seaplane windows like the reveal of some carefully rendered alternate reality. At first it appeared almost artificial in its perfection — impossible gradients of blue surrounding impossibly ordered strips of white sand and palm-lined geometry. The kind of scenery that feels less discovered than designed.

And perhaps that is part of the illusion.

Because this place does not simply offer escape; it offers participation in an entirely different operating system for living. A simulation of existence where friction has been intentionally engineered out of the experience. Partake at your own discretion...but of course, we absolutely would.

Arriving at Siyam World - Maldives

Our home for the next week - Siyam World - Maldives

Siyam World - Maldives

Siyam World presents itself with almost unapologetic excess: all-inclusive dining, endless drinks, curated experiences, private villas, overwater indulgence, everything prepaid at the front door, allowing the psychology of spending itself to quietly disappear. Once inside, the simulation goggles are well and truly fitted. Reality, at least temporarily, becomes negotiable.

Our slide into the Indian Ocean - Siyam World - Maldives


Curry Leaf - overwater restaurant - our location for dinner on night one - Siyam World - Maldives

Siyam World - Maldives

Siyam World - Maldives

Siyam World - Maldives

Siyam World - Maldives

How exactly are you supposed to respond when every impulse is answered almost immediately? Margaritas become de rigueur, a buggy transports you across an island paradise toward a private villa suspended over the Indian Ocean, complete with a waterslide descending directly into lagoon water so clear it barely seems real. Palm-fringed beaches arrange themselves with cinematic precision in every direction, while the atmosphere wraps itself around you in that distinctly Maldivian warmth that demands almost nothing except surrendering to its own requirements, sunglasses, shorts, and reverie.

And perhaps that is the true luxury. Not extravagance itself, but the temporary permission to stop performing complexity. To inhabit a world where decisions become beautifully inconsequential and joy is reduced to elemental things: water, warmth, light, appetite, sleep.

Sun Siyam, we're here.

Sunday, January 11, 2026

Nuwara Eliya (Sri Lanka) - Colombo (Sri Lanka) - The slow descent from the hills

Nuwara Eliya (Sri Lanka) - Colombo (Sri Lanka)

11 January 2026

We started the day in Nuwara Eliya, where the air still had that slightly unreal mountain crispness to it — the kind that makes everything feel cleaner than it probably is. We’d stayed overnight at the Hillside Retreat on the outskirts of town, one of those places that feels suspended somewhere between practicality and postcard, quietly doing its job without needing to announce itself.

This day, though, had no real ambition to bask in whatsoever.

It was a transit day. A necessary bridge. The kind of day you don’t really plan for, you just accept, because the geography of a trip demands a comma at some point before you get to the full stop. Today it was to Nuwara Eliya to Colombo. Five to six hours, give or take, depending on how generous the road, traffic, and fate was going to allow for.

We all knew it was coming of course. That was the thing. These days are never a surprise, they’re either politely ignored or deliberately supressed in the lead-up, like you can somehow wish them into being less real.

There was an 8am departure. There were bags to be loaded. And there were crafted smiles, appearing unnecessarily early, contrived and somehow deceitfully hopeful to ourselves. 

And then almost immediately, within the first 20 mins, Sri Lanka reminded us that it wasn’t going to make the day anything other than the proverbial challange.

The mountain roads tightened into themselves — narrow, winding, slightly bruised by landslides induced from recent heavy rain. The kind of roads where every turn feels like the road is thinking about it just as much as you are. Back and forth we went, slow, deliberate, occasionally absurdly slow, as if the entire concept of distance had been re-negotiated overnight.

Morning optimism - Hilldale Retreat - Nuwara Eliya - Sri Lanka

 Morning sunshine - Hilldale Retreat - Nuwara Eliya - Sri Lanka

There’s a particular psychological effect that kicks in after the first hour of that kind of driving — where time stops feeling linear and starts feeling like repetition, where you internally negotiate expectation and your own levels of tolerance. Same corner. Same incline. Same cluster of tea plantations clinging to impossible gradients. Same silence in the car that isn’t quite peaceful, just… suspended.

Early on, Aiden some internal body frustrations. Stomach issues for short — one of those inconvenient travel truths that never shows up in the brochure version of the journey but you know is waiting somewhere in the shadows. We pulled into some random hilltop stop, a place that probably doesn’t even have a name you’d remember, more of a functional agreement between travellers and whoever was kind enough to point at a bathroom and say “yes”.

It did the job. That was enough.

Our driver was a quiet man with very limited English, but also no real need for it. He existed in that very specific category of drivers who understand the road in a way that doesn’t require explanation. He wasn’t unkind. Just… sealed into his own rhythm, occasionally acknowledging us through the rear-view mirror like we were passing thoughts rather than passengers.

The endless turns of the road to Colombo 


And so the day just stretched out into the mental distance we had constructed.

Minutes turned into long, soft hours. The mountains slowly gave way — not abruptly, but with a kind of reluctant fading. Cool greens and tea plantation geometry softened into something more humid, more layered, more chaotic. The air changed before the scenery admitted it was changing.

We passed through small towns that didn’t feel like destinations so much as interruptions. Places where life was clearly happening, but not for us. No obvious landmarks. No narrative hooks. Just the steady, unedited reality of people getting on with things.

And for long stretches, there was nothing particularly inspiring about any of it.

Just road. Movement. Waiting.

It wasn’t until the final stretch — maybe the last 90 minutes — that the landscape began to shift in a more recognisable way. The edges of Colombo started to announce themselves: more traffic, more density, more noise. The sense that the world had gradually reassembled itself into something urban again.

That’s when the finish line finally started to feel real.

We rolled into the Hilton Colombo somewhere around 1:30pm.

Not triumphant. Not exhausted in any dramatic sense. Just… through it.

One of those arrivals where you don’t celebrate so much as quietly acknowledge that something mildly grinding has been completed and can now be left behind without further discussion.

The afternoon, predictably, corrected everything.

Poolside at the Hilton. Drinks in hand. Light returning to the day. That familiar post-transit recalibration where the body starts pretending the road never happened.

Cocktails. Snacks. A slow return to normality.

Sri Lanka, in hindsight, had been exactly what it needed to be — rich, varied, occasionally challenging, always alive in its own way. And this day sat in that quieter category of travel: not memorable for what it showed you, but for what it took out of you along the way.

The next morning would be something else entirely — Colombo to Malé, Maldives waiting on the other side of the sky.

But for now, it was just stillness again.

Saturday, January 3, 2026

Colombo (Sri Lanka) - First sights, first international wickets

 Colombo (Sri Lanka)

02-03 January 2026

Travel-wise, the past few months have been unexpectedly eventful, with two new countries having been added to my ‘visited list’, South Korea mid-year and now Sri Lanka. There’s always that thrilling tension  when stepping into a country for the first time, there’s the excitement of discovery, the quiet apprehension of the unknown and the understanding that the promise of something new is in every single thing you are about to experience.  The moment you exit the aircraft cabin and commence walking the airbridge to the terminal, your senses are heightened, and you start absorbing everything. What do my surrounds look like? What do I feel, what’s the temperature? What are the actions of the airport staff telling me about this place? Passport control and the customer entry procedure are your first real indicators of the general approach that you can expect. For example, have you ever gone through passport control in a major US city? It’s hands down the most unwelcoming, arrogant & aggressive introduction that I’ve experienced in all my travels. Just plain horrible. It just oozes US supremacy – and for that they can go and f*** themselves!!! Sri Lanka was nothing like that. It was simple, easy and relatively warm – which is about as much as you can expect from border control.

This is taken at about 3:30am on 02 January - it has that cyberpunk dystopian feel - it's not an epic photo but I love it for the type of environment is projects - Traders Hotel - KLCC - Kuala Lumpur - Malaysia

HRC KLIA - Kuala Lumpur International Airport - Kuala Lumpur - Malaysia

HRC KLIA - Kuala Lumpur International Airport - Kuala Lumpur - Malaysia

Pre-flight ritual - HRC KLIA - Kuala Lumpur International Airport - Kuala Lumpur - Malaysia

My little traveller - Kuala Lumpur International Airport - Kuala Lumpur - Malaysia

Kuala Lumpur International Airport - Kuala Lumpur - Malaysia

Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) is about 35kms outside of the city centre, and about 45 mins by car if you’re taking the Colombo-Kutanayake expressway, and about all I can say about the drive is that it serves a purpose. There’s nothing eye catching or appealing about the drive – with the moment of arrival into the Colombo city centre itself, as equally as underwhelming. With that said, this part didn’t disappoint me. I research enough before travelling to know what to expect, and all reports had indicated that even though Colombo serves as the primary gateway to the country, you’ll get a lot of value out of not dedicating too much time to its discovery. Sorry Colombo, that’s just the word on the street, you can blame ‘Google Reviews’ for that outlook.

Entering the city itself, I got irregular vibes of what I anticipated this part of the world to be like. There were moments of mad traffic, typical hustle and bustle, dishevelled buildings, chaotic human movement…but it was only in pockets, and only minor to what I anticipate India to be like. Interestingly for me, I just sat back and observed, without passing any sort of judgment, or likening the location to someplace else I’ve been.

Whilst Colombo was just a port of transition, we did stay at a particularly nice hotel overlooking the Indian Ocean, Marino Beach Colombo.

Marino Beach Hotel - Colombo - Sri Lanka

Marino Beach Hotel - Colombo - Sri Lanka

Marino Beach Hotel - Colombo - Sri Lanka

Marino Beach Hotel - Colombo - Sri Lanka

From the moment we arrived, Inga and I were struck by their customer service. It wasn’t just friendly - it was effusively warm, genuinely appreciative, and endlessly welcoming, the kind of attention that could fill a dozen pages of adjectives. Every interaction felt carefully attentive; for me, the politeness was almost deferential, teetering on the edge of obsequious, yet somehow still charming in its intensity. What were happy to find however is that this type of interaction is typically Sri Lankan. Perhaps not to this level of intensity but certainly the trait of warmth, friendliness and appreciation permeated through the very fabric of their society.

The highlight of Marino Beach was of course their rooftop infinity pool. With views up and down the coastline, and a pool edge that seemed to meld into the vastness of ocean, relaxing here on our first afternoon was just the way that we wanted to commence the 2nd leg of our holiday – which on reflection, initially didn’t have a long Sri Lanka component to it. Originally the idea was to fly from Malaysia straight to the Maldives but somehow the idea morphed when we realised that high-season in the Maldives could be defeated by adding some time in Sri Lanka – and hence a travel itinerary was born.

For the remainder of the afternoon the incessant demands of Aiden wanting to pick up a ‘scratch game of cricket’ somewhere, is what kept us occupied. Of course we had promised him that Sri Lanka was a land filled with cricket enthusiasts and that he could easily pick up random games of cricket just by walking along the beach. Somehow within his mind I’m certain that he developed the idea that I already had developed a pre-planned itinerary of when and where this ‘random games’ would be available, and so our duty has decent, obliging parents meant that we needed to support his desire and prove our initial assertions….and ultimately we did, at the Dehiwala Mountlavania playground. Set across the road from the Marino Beach lounge (which in truth was the adults’ s destination for the evening), we were lucky enough to pick-up a game with some locals that were kind enough to let Aiden and myself join in. And let me just add, Aiden had a blast.

…and now, to add the exclamation mark on this moment


Aiden batting at the Dehiwala Mountlavania stadium (playground) - Colombo - Sri Lanka

In delivery mode - Aiden bowling to Sri Lankan opener Nimal at the Dehiwala Mountlavania stadium playground 😊

Now really, I think this was Aiden's first international wicket - Nimal, LBW ...for sure, but you know, Nimals' dad was hesitant to give it - Dehiwala Mountlavania playground - Colombo - Sri Lanka

I am proud to say that Aiden Elisher claimed his first international wicket on the dusty, difficult pitch of the Dehiwala Mountlavania playground - Colombo, late on day 1 on the 2nd of January, 2026. A beautiful delivery that clean bowled Nimal (surname unknown), who was 2 yrs Aidens’ senior.  A very proud moment for Aiden’s family (especially his Dad), and a now a much-cherished memory of our short stay in Colombo.

The next day we were already exiting the capital. A lovely stay at the Marino Beach hotel and the briefest of introductions to Colombo were quickly set aside by a short-trip from our hotel to Colombo Fort railway station, and the anticipation of a 3h, open door-open window ride down the coastline to Galle.

There’s something about Colombo Fort railway station, it stands almost like a fading crown in the heart of the city, its colonial arches and high ceilings whispering stories of what certainly was a much busier, grander past. Time has dulled the paint, worn the tiles, torn holes in the ceilings and walkways, and yet beneath the decaying exterior, the lovely symmetry and scale hint that this was the centre of something profound and impressive – now an almost ghostly sentinel of transit & history, it appears that tourism, at the very least, are providing it with somewhat of a slight resurgence and an opportunity to tune into echoes of an earlier era.

Colombo Fort railway station - Colombo - Sri Lanka

Colombo Fort railway station - Colombo - Sri Lanka

Colombo Fort railway station - Colombo - Sri Lanka

Colombo Fort railway station - Colombo - Sri Lanka

Colombo Fort railway station - Colombo - Sri Lanka

Standing room only - train from Colombo to Galle - Sri Lanka

Train from Colombo to Galle - Sri Lanka

Train from Colombo to Galle - Sri Lanka

Waiting on the platform with over zealous teens from Canada, elderly grey nomads from Australia (not me), stereotypical backpackers from Germany, the platform was full of tourists wanting to partake in the 'authentic' Sri Lankan rail experience. Which beckons of course the question, when does authentic simply turn into kitsch and self-serving? And my answer, the first time you hear ‘man, you sold out’ and most likely in concert ‘its just way too touristy’

...As a tourist these days you just can’t win. The experience is just what it is, and if its all about needing local to make you feel authenticity, then I think you're really missing the whole point of taking the experience for what is offering in the moment. With that said, our authentic rail experience was just that – we stood or sat in the aisle for most of the journey down to Galle as was probably expected. Travelling the rail line down the south-west coast, lost in simplicity of the relentless clatter, the sound of the rail cars along the track making it feel somewhat like a metallic heartbeat of the moment -  each clatter and each screech a pulse against the landscape. The sea breeze slipping effortlessly through open windows, tangling hair and carrying that freshness and freedom into the carriages. Passengers swaying with the rhythm, lost in thought or quiet conversation. And then, after a 3hr journey,  we eased our way onto the platform in Galle—which now became a the new story waiting to be told.