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Friday, April 7, 2017

Rome (Italy) - Testing the waters

ROME (ITALY)
07 April – 08 April 2017

In planning our wedding the initial concern was identifying  a suitable location. Riga could very well have been an option but tempting fate with the weather there, even in Summer, might have only lead to heartbreak and disappointment. Belgrade on the other hand just wasn’t a wedding destination draw card. A nice enough city of course but for our wedding? I wanted something dramatic and memorable. That therefore set the scene for a virtual hunt, so we went scouting for what would thus become our very own wedding destination for a destination wedding.

Initially Spain and France made our list of probable locations but due to various administrative difficulties it made the process of getting married almost impossible and unnecessarily complicated. Late one December evening in 2016 I had a moment of inspiration and clarity. Amalfi and its coastline came to me in a rush, Italy might just be the tonic that we needed. It fit the criteria of course, almost certain to have sunshine in Summer, with a  dramatic coastline that dropped startlingly into the beautifully  blue Tyrrhenian Sea, reasonable proximity to both Belgrade and Riga whilst also not being in either of those locations so that neither could have claim favouritism.


Australian Consulate - Rome - Italy

Rome - Italy

Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II  - Rome - Italy


With some research we discovered that Italy did allow foreigners to marry in their country with reasonable ease and so, with the assistance of a wedding planner on site in Amalfi, we got to planning our big day.

Administrative requirements

Weddings don’t happen without necessary administrative duties being undertaken before the  actual date. This in fact was our primary for going to Rome, and of course then, the natural follow on would be that we’d head down to Amalfi and check out our venue, which until this point we’d only seen via online photos.

Now first, let me outline the administrative requirements as a foreigner wanting to marry in Italy that need to be met in advance of the knot being tied.

The Atto Notorio – basically this is a sworn affidavit that you get need to have completed at least three months prior to the wedding. A confirmation of civil status, residential details etc. This we needed to have completed at the Australian Embassy and then have filed across town in a registry.


Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II  - Rome - Italy

Rome - Italy

Rome - Italy

Rome - Italy

Rome - Italy


Now, here’s where we had a bit of fun. The wedding planner, who wasn’t that great a planner at all, actually in this situation, assisted us a great deal. She managed to organise witnesses we needed at the Australian Consulate to have the documentation done and also accompany us in terms of the filing of the Atto Notorio. I had also, somewhat courageously, decided that whilst in Rome I would rent a car and drive us around town.

Let me say here, motorists in Rome are NUTS. They are simply unpredictable and move at such velocity that your decision making can’t be delayed. You need to act and be confident in your moves, make them without hesitation. This is where a couple of years of experience driving in Belgrade came as a trump card that I pulled out of my back pocket for just this occasion. Had I have not had that grounding in the art of irrational driving then attempting to get across the city of Rome \ would have been a nightmare. In fact, I did so well that I received a magnificent compliment from our Italian assistant when she said, ‘You don’t drive like an Australian, you drive like an Italian’. Which to me was music to my ears but I think it came more out of fear for her own safety than a comment meant to inspire and commend me on what I was actually doing.


Rome - Italy

Rome - Italy

Rome - Italy

Colosseum - Rome - Italy

Colosseum - Rome - Italy


Second administrative requirement, the Nulla Ostrathe second document I needed to provide – was also completed at the Australia embassy. Basically this is a form that needs to be filled by foreigners that want to be married in the country, it shows their intent to do so and in what time frame.

Thankfully getting the administrative components out of the way in Rome was relatively easy and only took the morning to complete. The final step, the Civil Ceremony, is one that still now I’m still suspicious of. Apparently this is the lodgement of the Atto Notorio and Nulla Osta in the marriage office, or Town Hall, of the Italian City where you plan to marry. I’ll discuss this a little more when I get to talking about our stay in Amalfi, but let me say, something inside me seems to still believe that somehow we were married on 09 APRIL 2017 in a Civil Ceremony rather than 30 JUNE 2017…our marriage certificate does say 30 JUNE 2017 but I think its suspect.


Colosseum - Rome - Italy

Colosseum - Rome - Italy

Colosseum - Rome - Italy

Rome - Italy

Rome - Italy

Fontona di Trevi - Rome - Italy

Fontona di Trevi - Rome - Italy


Administration aside, our free afternoon and evening in Rome allowed us the briefest of moments of sightseeing, which in turn allowed us to take in the Colosseum, the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II and the magnificent Fontana di Trevi. The final stop was a pretty cool experience for me. I remember back in 2008 when I came to Rome the first time I did the three coins tosses into the Trevi, which legend has it that if you complete all three, that the 1st means that you will return to Rome, the 2nd ensures a new romance and the 3rd ensures marriage. Well Fontana di Trevi, here I was again, with my fiancee in Rome completing what we needed to do in order to get married. I say legend has it pretty much spot on.


Fontona di Trevi - Rome - Italy

Fontona di Trevi - Rome - Italy

Fontona di Trevi - Rome - Italy

Fontona di Trevi - Rome - Italy

Fontona di Trevi - Rome - Italy

Fontona di Trevi - Rome - Italy


A beautiful city in its eternal beauty and chaos, sadly we only had a few hours to experience what it had to offer but we would be back in a few days. The next day we were off to Amalfi and finally we would get to see if our ‘hunch’ and having a destination wedding in this neck of the woods would pay dividends.

Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Istanbul (Turkey) - Hook-ah-licious

ISTANBUL (TURKEY)
29 March – 31 March 2017

Istanbul had made quite the impression on us the previous September when we had transited through.  Also considering that many of the great cities of the world were in close proximity to where we were now living, making a short jump to a city like Istanbul for ‘someone’s birthday’ was more than feasible.

To set the background as to why we selected Istanbul I need to add that since returning from Central America we had commenced our pre-wedding diet in earnest. Part of maintaining a strict calorie regime was completely getting rid of alcohol. Just like in the commercial world, the rise of a substitute usually happens at the behest of another product when circumstances change. Our substitute was sheesha. A real pleasure actually and it provided the perfect foil to voiding the caloric intake that had undermined our progress in the past.


On our way to Istanbul with the assistance of Air Serbia


Oh dear, calorie intake through the ROOF  - visual osmosis - Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Considering that background, Istanbul felt like the right choice for us. Not only from a purely touristic perspective but also for the fact that finding Hookah cafes would be more than easy, and, purchasing a new hookah for Inga as a birthday present would be something fun that we could both do and create a memory in the process.

With the ever present shadow of terrorism still hanging over the region and Turkey running itself into political turmoil, we still made the decision to go and adopted the Australian approach of ‘be aware but not alarmed’. Thank you Steve Liebmann, I believe you words will haunt me for the rest of my life.


Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Delightful - Istanbul - Turkey



Man of delight - Istanbul - Turkey


Arriving mid-week we elected to stay at the wonderful Regie Ottoman Istanbul hotel. A glorious boutique hotel, its set an a 150 year old Ottoman building and located in the Historic Peninsula. With original mosaic artwork, stone walls and wooden floors, the hotel felt like it harked back to an Istanbul reminiscent of an earlier era. Moody and dignified, it set the feel for what the rest of the short stay in Istanbul would be.

The next day our discovery of Istanbul took us back into the Grand Bazaar, still the largest and oldest covered market in the world, with 61 covered streets and 4,000 shops, having originally opened to trade in 1461. This is a major tourist attraction of Istanbul and an absolute blast for those that love doing a bit of shopping, also, it was the perfect place to find the hookah we were looking for. It didn’t even take that long for Inga to zero in on exactly what she wanted, a beautiful light blue glass and gold motif base with a  gold, metal stem. Not only something that would suit us in a practical way but certainly would be a great addition as a centre piece of our apartment in Belgrade.


Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey


Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey


Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey


Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey - birthday present negotiation in progress


Birthday present secured - the wonderful light blue glass hookah on the left came home with us


Of course a hookah purchase of this nature also required its own carry bag
Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey


For the rest of the day we took to walking and made our way across the Golden Horn, via the Galata Koprusu bridge and then headed up to Taksim Square, around which there are restaurants, shops and cafes a plenty. Somehow I expected Istanbul to be different to this, more middle eastern in outlook, more leaning towards what I’d encountered in a place like Marrakech. Unremarkable from those in the known, the city really looked to be a mix of influences, not quite the European city and not quite Asian or Middle Eastern. As a city is sits beautifully in the middle and in the midst of those complimentary forces, a true spectacle of influences.


Blue mosque - Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


That evening we went to see a performance of mediation and ceremony when we took in a performance by Surfi Dervishes of whirling. From what I know the concept of whirling, or spinning the body in repetitive circles is meant to be symbolic, imitating the way that the planets of the solar system circle the sun. The aim of the action is to reach the source of all perfection, or kamal. Abandoning one’s ego, psyche, attachments to the superficial and utilising the music to simply focus on God. The performance is mesmerisingly beautiful. Their fluid movement encompassed in their physical being and the transition to a different mental state is beautifully engaging. The audience sat silently (snapping photos of course) and watched as these men showed us their version of what a discourse with God looks like in their terms. Intoxicating.


Looking out to the Golden Horn - Istanbul - Turkey


Looking out to the Golden Horn - Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Istanbul - Turkey


Whirling Dervishes - Istanbul - Turkey


Whirling Dervishes - Istanbul - Turkey


Whirling Dervishes - Istanbul - Turkey


I have to admit, considering the nature of our strict diet, what I found the most difficult thing to defeat was partaking in the local cuisine or taking on a tipple or two. In fact that was the biggest nuisance of the whole three months. Somehow staying at home and following a routine allows you to establish a pattern that deflects temptation. When you’re travelling, to me, it seems counter-intuitive to simply neglect the restaurants and bars. Of course it’s not an absolute need  to bow to gluttony or feel the ire of alcohol consumption, but hey, travel should involve all that. Again, the luck for us, in Istanbul at least as the substitution of one vice for another. Sheesha became our saving grace and we were mighty thankful that of us at least, the was freely available and celebrated.

Istanbul is a stunning city, of that there can be no doubt. Spectacular, engaging & dynamic. A world highlight to be certain.