Fortaleza (Brasil) - The sleepover

FORTALEZA (Brasil)
21 July 2017

We really have been cruel to Fortaleza, this time we didn't even stay the night! We just needed a place to stay until the evening as we had a late night flight out to Salvador de Bahia.

Our place of accommodation was the Vila Gale Fortaleza located on Praia do Futuro I. All I can tell you is about the resort itself, which was nice enough. It had a good location on the seafront and is located about 10 mins from the popular Beira Mar Avenue, but admittedly, that eastern side of the peninsula feels like a world away from the most popular section of Fortaleza.

Jericoacoara (Brasil) - A city in the sand

JERICOACOARA (Brasil)
07 July - 21 July 2017

The fabled Jericoacoara, described to me on my first trip to South America as a hippie style commune where people beat their tamborines, sang songs around bonfires, all the while sitting in the midst of wild, remote sand dunes and gorgeous blue lagoons.

So 'Jeri' isn't quite that, although there are elements of all those things to various degrees. It is however a town far removed from the modern world with its crazy deadlines, traffic jams, iPads and iPhones and endless queues everything. In some ways the streets here are paved with gold, albeit golden sand. Part of the absolute charm of Jeri is that cars into the town, expect for anything tourist related, are banned. It's a pedestrian paradise and that laid back vibe is typified by the way you get around, all sand streets, all sand floors, all chilled and built with the spirit of bohemia on the beach.

Jericoacoara - Brasil

Jericoacoara - Brasil

Post beach drinks on the avenue - the end of Rua do Forro - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Jericoacoara - Brasil

What drew us to Jeri the first time we were here a few years ago were those stories, what brought us back was finding a place where white sand beaches stretched endlessly off to the horizon, where palms trees swayed in the breeze, where strolling through the town is the equivalent of your dose of daily exercise and your obligation, should you choose to accept it, is simply laze in the sun and drink caipirinhas.

To provide a bit of background, until 20 years ago Jeri was nothing more than a fishing village, secluded, simple and out of the touristic eye. No roads, no electricity, no phones, no TV, all those common elements of modern civilisation weren't here. Of course its discovery by those from outside of Brasil has meant that Jeri has changed. Boutique stores, bars, cafes, boutique hotels but still, it has a very easy going, laid back charm that will hopefully be maintained by the locals. Indeed, since the area was declared an Environmental Protection Area in 1984 there have been a lot of building restrictions and tourism controls that brought so as to preserve what's there.

Our 'go to cart' - Tommy Cachaca - Praia Principale - Jericoacoara - Brasil

The MAN - Tommy Cachaca - Praia Principale - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Sweet cachaca dreams -  Jericoacoara - Brasil

Inga & I went for the AirBnB option this time and got ourselves a great place on the south-eastern part of the town. A place where we could catch the breezes whilst laying in hammocks and make ourselves caipirnhas to our hearts content.

Strangely, even though we were on our honeymoon we still manufactured a type of routine for our stay. Aside for the fact that we also booked in Private Training  sessions every couple of days, usually we'd commence each day with a run from the house along Praia Principale, which in itself sounds reasonably gentle other than the fact that the route we crafted had two major dune climbs on the way out and then a revisit of the climbs on the way back. The entire run would commonly take a little over an hour and cover somewhere between 11-12kms. It doesn't sound so bad until you understand that a major part of that run is on relatively soft sand which is completely soul destroying and energy sapping.

Lagoa Paraiso - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Did not expect to have that much grey!

Lagoa Paraiso - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Lagoa Paraiso - Jericoacoara - Brasil

The most relaxing hammocks around - Lagoa Paraiso - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Thankfully we were much kind to ourselves in the afternoon, heading to the busy end of Praia Principale where the sun lounger chairs were located along with the drinks carts. Now this to me is what a honeymoon should be about, and with that, Brasilians have this style of beach life 'dialled' in. You don't have to lift so much as a finger, food and drinks will find you without a problem. There's always a constant flow of peddlers with caipirinhas at the ready and also sorts of food items ready to be sold. As for me, I had a favourite cart that I'd go to for drinks and I struck up a bit of an understanding with Tommy and his drinks cart. He's make us the meanest caipirinhas on the block and I'd tip him a little each time for the privilege. It was an agreeable working relationship.

Lagoa Paraiso - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Lagoa Paraiso - Jericoacoara - Brasil

'Tons of guns' - Lagoa Paraiso - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Hot potato! Lagoa Paraiso - Jericoacoara - Brasil

We did have the opportunity of getting out of Jeri also. One of those times was to discover Lagoa Paraiso, a crystal blue coloured lagoon where the main objective of the day is to laze out in the sun or laze in hammocks on the water. A difficult choice, either way you look at it.

Caipirinhas in the mix- Jericoacoara - Brasil

The other step outside of our Jeri comfort zone was to make an attempt to take on kite surfing. Which looked an absolute treat, when it's done the correct way, but let me tell you, there are so many working parts in the process of attempting to fly a kite and wake board at the same time. After two full days I actually did get to the point where I was able to stands on the board for a second or two, just before coming off the board and yanking on the kite a bit too much. What happened after that point actually withdrew my commitment to learning this new water sport almost instantaneously, as my move of complete indiscretion had me plucked out of the water and airborne for several metres before I was unceremoniously dunked head first into the drink. That in itself is not completely horrific other than the fact that I was clipped into the kite that was still very much airborne and was dragging me off shore at a rate of knots. Now of course, I can swim, and I also had a life jacket on, but the amount of ropes and equipment that was surround my person and the speed at which I was getting pulled out to sea was quite disconcerting. Even more so, as I was getting dragged out I was waving to the instructors onshore and for quite sometime wasn't getting any feedback at all - almost a type of look that said, 'Oh well, he's lost to the ocean now, what can we do'.

Prea beach - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Prea beach - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Prea beach - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Prea beach - Jericoacoara - BrasilJericoacoara - Brasil

Inga on Prea Beach - learning the ways of the wind - Jericoacoara - Brasil

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Kite Surfer Central - Prea Beach - Jericoacoara - Brasil

Centre of Jericoacoara - Brasil

That's Jeri in a nutshell. It has some mighty fine beaches, wide, flat and functional for sports, lazing and finding drinks. It's atmosphere is obviously beach chill and its sunsets are picture perfect. Our near two weeks flew past so quickly - who knew that doing nothing could be so time consuming?

Fortaleza (Brasil)

FORTALEZA (Brasil) 
06 July - 07 July 2017

Inga and I have generally utilised Fortaleza is a transit city, utilising it to get in and out of Jericoacoara. It is a beautiful place in its own right, with great beaches, swaying palms, beach life and beach culture, it obviously deserves more interest and credit than we've allowed it.

It was simply a one night stay before we were to do the 5hr bus ride north-east to one of our prime honeymoon destinations.

Rio de Janeiro (Brasil) - Let the caipirinhas begin

RIO DE JANEIRO (Brasil)
04 July - 06 July 2017

I couldn't have imagined that seven years prior when I had to cut my South America trip short in Bolivia that I would have had the access to the continent that I had in those years that proceeded. South America, in particular Buenos Aires & Rio de Janeiro have become familiar friends to us, so as a honeymoon destination, the requirements of sun, sand and sea are a specialisation in this town.

Whilst this stop would only be relatively short we did set some time later on in the month to take a few days and indulge in our favourite city on the sea.

Santa Teresa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Santa Teresa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

The familiar waves of the walk on Copacabana - Copacabana beach - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

For this short stay we decided to take accommodation in Santa Teresa, a hilltop district that overlooks Flamengo, Botofogo and Urca, directly to Pao de Acucar. Winding streets, a village like atmosphere, a colourful bohemian type feel, its an attractive area of the city and its views out to Guanabara Bay are probably the best in Rio.

Santa Teresa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Santa Teresa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

The only issue with staying in Santa Teresa, should you not have access to a vehicle, is, that you do need access to a vehicle. Getting in and out of the area is difficult, you kind of get locked in as transport options are particularly sparse and access to remote streets, especially after dark, kind of puts you in the position where you're tempting fate.

Santa Teresa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

At the fantastic restaurant Aprazivel in Santa Teresa - if you haven't been, then go!

Santa Teresa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

It's definitely a beautiful area of Rio, one that should be seen, but I'd say that the days that we stayed there were probably enough for us with what type of mobility we had.

Rome (Italy) - The Birthday - Our Wedding - Part 4

ROME (Italy)
02 July - 03 July 2017

No rest for the wicked in this day and age, right of the back of our wedding celebrations came my 42nd birthday. Bidding farewell to our families in the morning, Inga & I, accompanied by my best man, Janelle, headed north to the capital of Rome. This was to be the exit point for both Janelle and ourselves, with JJ heading back for home and us, heading on our honeymoon. With that said, we did have one night left in us and Janelle's brother, Jarrod, was flying into town from London in order to catch up with his sister and join us in my birthday celebrations.

The standard state of getting re-acquainted with an Australian that you haven't seen for a while is to have a drink, and of course in Rome there's no shortage of options. We took up residence at one of the bars on the Tiber River whilst chatting. This also allowed me to set the scene for what I had planned this evening as nobody, other than myself, knew what we were getting up to for my birthday celebrations.

Tiber River - Rome - Italy

Tiber River - Rome - Italy

Tiber River - Rome- Italy

Tiber River - Rome- Italy

Tiber River - Rome- Italy

For this evening I decided that I wanted to change things up a little bit and not hit the typical bar or restaurant which is what made me decided on making a reservation with Eat With Me, (Federica & Barbara of BB Kitchen). What this is essentially is like a covert Supper Club, or as they would call it down in Buenos Aires, a puerto cerrado. In these scenarios you end up going to the chef's house and eating a pre-determined meal prepared by them. Usually....and I say usually because I can only imagine it to be case, the venues are intimate, a little clandestine and atmospheric.

The home of Frederica was in the Trastervere area of Rome, a locale of winding cobblestone streets, tons of charm and more authenticity, or so I felt, than the centre of the city. Their apartment itself was quite nice and I would say large for Rome considering that about 20 odd people stood in it comfortably and were seated on the accompanying terrace more than easily. 

As a venue I think it stood up well, ambient lighting, some well placed greenery and having a reasonable outlook over the rooftops in the area, it actually did feel like you'd been invited to a random dinner party in Rome, albeit that the guests were from all over the world. 

Eat with me - Federica & Barbara of BB Kitchen - Trastervere - Rome- Italy

Eat with me - Federica & Barbara of BB Kitchen - Trastervere - Rome- Italy

Eat with me - Federica & Barbara of BB Kitchen - Trastervere - Rome- Italy

Eat with me - Federica & Barbara of BB Kitchen - Trastervere - Rome- Italy

Eat with me - Federica & Barbara of BB Kitchen - Trastervere - Rome- Italy

In scenarios such as these, seating at communal tables can come undone quite quickly if you don't have an unwritten commitment from all parties to both instigate conversation and to invest enough time in keeping it running. Thankfully we had a lovely couple from Finland, Paivi Tontti and her husband Juha Tontti, and an equally as engaged Canadian couple, Pamela Keegan and her partner. Add to that a few Australians and one Latvian into the mix and you had a veritable United Nations gathered at the culinary negotiation table.

Eat with me - Federica & Barbara of BB Kitchen - Trastervere - Rome- Italy

Eat with me - Federica & Barbara of BB Kitchen - Trastervere - Rome- Italy

For something different and to have an experience in Rome that was relatively unique, the experience was a lot of fun. Actually after the event all our table went out drinking in the Trastervere area, effectively having the party kick-on. I suspect it could have become an absolute rager but for the fact that we were catching flights the next day. So the three Australians and the Latvian did the mature thing and bundled ourselves into a cab at a noble time.

Post meal drink - this looks like a round of tequila shots to me!

The next morning was sluggish for us all. Random artefacts from the night prior appearing within our lucid morning prompting memories of drinks gone by. After picking ourselves up we headed out for some breakfast and made considerations to head to the Colosseum. 

Rome Fiumicino Airport- Italy

On our way to Rio via Lisbon - Rome Fiumicino Airport- Italy

When you have left over champagne...obviously champagne should never be left over, but if there's a time when it happens then drinking it at check-in on a flight to Rio is acceptable

Rome Fiumicino Airport- Italy

With the sun high but with time running short this is where we had to bid our farewells, unfortunately the Colosseum tour would need to wait for another day. Still, what a wonderful fours days it had been for us. A time of our lives that we'll never forget, certainly. But now it was time to head off on our honeymoon, and that meant heading to the airport and catching a big bird down to good 'ole Rio, Rio by the Sea-o

Flying down to Rio where there's rhythm and rhyme
Hey feller, twirl that old propeller
Got to get to Rio and we've got to make time
You'll love it, soaring high above it
Looking down on Rio from a heaven of blue
Send a radio to Rio de Janeiro
With a big hello just so they'll know and stand by there
We'll fly there
Oh, Rio, ev'rything will be okay
We're singing and winging our way to you

Positano (Italy) - The Party - Our Wedding - Part 3

POSITANO (Italy)
01 July 2017

Today was simply slated as being the Party Day. Time to celebrate and time to enjoy the evening before. Inga & I decided  therefore that our first social duty as a married couple would be to host an afternoon drinks session in Positano. Not a bad way to kick things off in terms of your first social outing.

First day of married life - we'll drink to that - Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi - Amalfi - Italy

Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi - Amalfi - Italy

The shirt says it all - Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi - Amalfi - Italy

Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi - Amalfi - Italy

Gifts for our guesys, and one for us of course - Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi - Amalfi - Italy

The view from our terrece - Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi - Amalfi - Italy

The lovely bar of the Hotel Covo de Saraceni was going to host our party and it was exquisitely located on the Western end of Positano beach. It had beautiful large French style doors that opened out onto a terrace which in turn had a picture perfect view onto the beach, up the coastline and to the town of Positano itself.

As both families were based in Amalfi we all gathered at the primary Amalfi wharf at 12:30, most of us in our best afternoon drinks in Positano wear on, and took the 30 min ride west along the Sorrentine Peninsula to the equally, if not more stunning, town of Positano. 

Positano is gorgeous cliff side village on the coastline with cascading multi-pastel coloured buildings, a pebble beachfront, narrow cobble-stone streets and a sun-baked atmosphere, where better to sit back and have a good 'ole fashioned cocktail sessions. It has the type of atmosphere that almost forces you to have an Aperol Spritz. It's elegant, classy, lush and attractive.

Taking the ferry to Positano - Italy

Taking the ferry to Positano - Italy

Apparently I looked like a 70's F1 driver? I'll take that!

Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

Drinks from your wonderful hosts - The Elisher's - Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

The beating sun was a gorgeous accompaniment as we cruised along the coastline, the beautiful Tyrrhenian sea once again meeting the dominant Lattari cliffs and the marquis green of trees and shrubbery, punctuated only by the smaller towns on the way. Is was thoroughly enjoyable as we effortlessly made our way along the coast.

Positano - Italy

Could have been Seven Hills, but this time it's Positano

Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

Positano - Italy

Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

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Reflecting back on that day I have to say that it all felt just a little cool. Everyone appeared to be in such great spirits and I think for us personally, not only were we enjoying our first full day as being married but we looked damn stylish also. Just another fine day on the Amalfi coast.

My wondeful wife in 'Positano mode' - Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

The 'best man' and the new Bridge - Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

Davis, kickin' it Cuban style - Hotel Covo de Saraceni - Positano - Italy

I'd asked the Hotel Covo de Saraceni to set aside a section for us in the bar area, which they kindly did. In fact, with what I consider to be good fortune, not another person entered the bar area in the time we were there, so it ended up feeling like a private function. And as the cocktails were mixed, the banter increased, the canapes made their way around and the Cancerian birthdays were acknowledged, there wasn't much else more to do other than completely enjoy the afternoon and immerse ourselves in the surroundings.