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Saturday, November 14, 2009

Luang Prabang - The 381

Luang Prabang (Laos)
One of the first things that you see when you enter Luang Prabang is Mt.Phousi, alternatively, if you enter during the night as we did, you'll see Wat Chom Si, all lit up and sitting on the summit of Mt. Phousi. Obviously for people that know me, once I see something like that my very next endeavour will be to get up to the top of the thing and have a look around at the earliest point that an opportunity presents itself. So on this day, with just a little bit of convincing on my part, JJ and I attacked Mt.Phousi with the reckless abandon that a climb like that warrants. Reflecting on the day now, I don't actually remember doing much more that day other than the climb and bargaining for a chess set later that evening, could the climb have taken that much out of us?

 
Buddhist temple of Haw Kham (Royal Complex) - as viewed from the start of our climb up Mount Phousi

So somewhere near the start of the climb up you find out that it's 381 steps to the top, taking you closer to the heavens and also presenting a half decent view of Luang Prabang. I'm sure somewhere at this point we also had a Swiss garlic man sighting, disturbing on many a front as 1) There was just no way that we wanted to chat with him, 2) He was still wearing the same clothes that he'd spent 15hrs on a bus ride from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang in, if they were smelling bad then well then I shudder to think at to the odour that those man juices could be presenting now and 3) He was trying out his game on some poor unsuspecting female traveller, oh well, maybe the offer of garlic actually worked out for him on this occasion!?


Part of the 381 - Mount Phousi - Luang Prabang


After hitting the first 100 steps or so of the climb the staircase started to zig-zag up the hill. It's not that bad a walk although with a bit of sun and a high amount of smoke in the air it made it difficult for some of the combatants that were trying to scale the peak on that day. Never the less, as you move up the hill the views back down to the  centre of Luang Prabang and over the Mekong are magnificent, if not made just a little disappointing however by the immense amount of smoke in the air. Although what you lose in terms of air quality and clarity you make up for with some amazing sunsets.

The Mekong from the top of Mt. Phousi - Luang Prabang - Laos


Luang Prabang sits at the confluence of the Mekong River and the Khan River. Once you make it up The 381 you get an absolute panoramic view across the area, making the struggle up the hill  worthwhile. What you also get at the top are you common variety souvenir hawkers and kip opportunists that will take those hard earned kip out of you either with their sly moves, fast talking or emotional game play. Like other places in Asia what you sometimes come across are people that have cane/straw cages that contain several sparrows, the release of which will grant you ,the payor, a kind wish from the anonymous person selling them to you  via manipulation of your heart strings and the clear observation of the pathetic imprisonment of the defenceless sparrows. Of course, as JJ pointed out, these sparrows don't fly away into their bought freedom but rather fly back to the residence of the owner, only to be brought back up the hill the very next day. My argument to this however was that at least they would get to experience a little bit of freedom rather than being caged up for the rest of the day. So we both purchased about an hour of their freedom for a paltry sum of perhaps 10cents, to me at least it was worth the trouble and effort.





JJ on the summit of Mt.Phousi - Luang Prabang - Laos

The sun, cutting through the haze and the frangipani trees - Mt.Phousi - Luang Prabang - Laos






Yeah, always knew that I had big bells!
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The rest of the time we spent taking shots of the surrounding area and wondering at how amazing it was, and what it would be like on a clear day. After which we climbed down the other side of the hill and made our way, I'm sure, into another random bar where the alcohol was cheap and worth our time in being occupied for several an hour.
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Later that evening we wondered through the markets again where I did manage to pick up a fantastic chess set for approximately $30USD. Sure, perhaps a little expensive for these neck of the woods but it certainly serves as a quality piece. The bargaining with the lady took a couple of rounds, and it also took me walking away only for a little voice inside my head to scream out and say,' Henry, that set is yours, now go back and pick it up!'. I think I learnt my lesson from Vietnam, if there's something that you particularly like, don't walk away, pick it up and take it home because If you don' you'll only sit back and regret the fact later on. Of course, this theory does not apply to STD's, lets just be clear about that.