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Monday, September 19, 2016

Istanbul (Turkey) - holier than thou

Istanbul (Turkey)
19 September 2016

Flights in and out of Tbilisi occur mid-morning, as in, the 3am sort of mid-morning where you internally debate the validity of sleeping as it seems a redundant concept. What this early departure time means therefore is that it puts you on the ground at your next destination at awkward hours, leaving you to remain tenuously supported by  the quality of sleep that can only be uniquely defined by economy class seats, turbulence and calisthenics at 40,000 ft.
Our flight out of Istanbul to Belgrade was leaving at 1600 that day which meant that we had 9hrs of time in the lovely city of Istanbul. Unfortunately we spent close to 3hrs of the allocated 9 hours spread out over a few benches right in front of the baggage carousels in the arrival halls. Sleep, no matter how brief or strangled, can be sweet when you desperately need it. During this morning all I really recall  of those truncated hours was the human tide filling the hall and then washing away past me through exit signs and barriers. A wash of travellers moving with the rhythm of global flight arrivals.

When the both of us eventually came to our senses later in the real ‘mid-morning’, i.e., around 10am, the plan that we had for the day was to get into the city centre in the suburb (area) of Faith and see both the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Blue Mosque) and Hagia Sophia. Both world renowned structures for their offering to incredible architecture,  their sheer enormity and religious significance.


Sultan Ahmed Mosque "Blue Mosque" - Istanbul - Turkey

Sultan Ahmed Mosque "Blue Mosque" - Istanbul - Turkey

Sultan Ahmed Mosque "Blue Mosque" - Istanbul - Turkey


On first sighting you recognise quickly that Sultan Ahmed Mosque has scale, it is enormous! It’s size and grand posture certainly gives the building an aura and sense of overwhelming power. The mosque itself has five main domes, six minarets and eight secondary domes. It’s final design being the culmination of nearly two centuries of Ottoman mosque development. It incorporates some Byzantine Christian elements of the neighbouring Hagia Sophia design with traditional Islamic architecture.  Standing inside and witnessing the space it envelopes and occupies just makes you wonder at both the audacity and human intellect & ability to be able to complete a project of this magnitude.


Sultan Ahmed Mosque "Blue Mosque" - Istanbul - Turkey

Sultan Ahmed Mosque "Blue Mosque" - Istanbul - Turkey

Sultan Ahmed Mosque "Blue Mosque" - Istanbul - Turkey

Sultan Ahmed Mosque "Blue Mosque" - Istanbul - Turkey

Sultan Ahmed Mosque "Blue Mosque" - Istanbul - Turkey

Sultan Ahmed Mosque "Blue Mosque" - Istanbul - Turkey

Sultan Ahmed Mosque "Blue Mosque" - Istanbul - Turkey


The interior of the mosque is lined with more than 20,000 handmade ceramic tiles and the upper levels of the mosque, dominated by a blue paint colour, have more than 200 stained glass windows. Standing there was simply impressive and something that I’d always wanted to do considering it has always been an iconic and symbolic structure of  the city that straddles Europe and Asia. Istanbul.

Hagia Sophia juxtaposed with Sultan Ahmed Mosque, is just as grand in size as Sultan Ahmed but far more attractive in terms of its interior and overall design. Incredibly moody and atmospheric, there’s a weight and presence inside the building that is captivating. I often wonder how inanimate objects can be so revered , but standing under the grand dome it’s not difficult to understand why it’s held in such esteem and apotheosized.

Formerly a Greek Orthodox patriarchal cathedral, later becoming an Ottoman mosque, and now a museum, this building has worn many hats during its time. Built in 537 AD at the beginning of the middle ages, it became famous for its massive dome and was at one stage in time the world’s largest  building. A true marvel of engineering.


Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey


The building has a tumultuous history, entering and exiting many phases of ownership throughout its life. As recently as this year, 2019, Turkish President Erdogan made the suggestion that Hagia Sophia should once again be turned into a mosque, ending its tenure of being a museum since 1935 after Turkey became a secular nation in 1927.

As one of the greatest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture, the interior is decorated with mosaics and marble pillars and coverings that have immense artistic value. The temple itself was so richly and artistically decorated that Justinian proclaimed, ‘Solomon, I have outdone thee’.


Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey

Hagia Sophia - Istanbul - Turkey


Vast, impressive, heady. So many much that can be felt from just a building. Certainly it stand as testament to human endeavour and capacity, especially when driven by an assumption of the divine.


Istanbul - Turkey

Istanbul - Turkey



Another iconic building of Istanbul and indeed the world, I feel fortunate to have spent a few hours in its shadows simply appreciating it.