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Thursday, August 3, 2017

Dubai (United Arab Emirates) - Petrodollars in the fast lane

DUBAI (United Arab Emirates)
03 August - 06 August 2017


First timers in Dubai are immediately struck by three things on arrival. First the heat, it has a real presence but isn't oppressive in the down trodden equatorial type of way, it's just damned hot without beating the will out of you. Then there's a city under-construction. A place that's being built up, built out, being built bigger, further, more outlandishly and with greater difficulty than any place on earth. Then there's the over display of wealth, the Ferrari parked behind a Maserati, in front of a Bugati. That's exactly the way Inga experienced her first trip to this part of the world.

Four decades ago this was a small fishing town located on the banks of Dubai creek. Isn't it amazing what a fist full of petrodollars, an enigmatic airline and an aristocracy with wild vision can do to completely transform what was simply a dot in the desert. Dubai has now become a glamorous, spectacular and futuristic location where the wild, unconventional and preposterous becomes common place on almost a daily basis. The will to do what anywhere else would be impossible simply shows that we are collectively capable, right now.


Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates


The money that ignites the fire of development and futurism here also drives the commercial acumen and its absurd ambition. It honestly does feel like anything can happen on this barren playing field. I was first here in 2006, with my last occasion being in 2012. Six years in Dubai feels like 20 years anywhere else, but hell, 10 years is a lifetime and the changed I witnessed arriving this time comparative to the Dubai of my mind that I had left 5-6 years earlier was just staggering.

Money runs through the veins of society here, although it appears it is only the elite Emirati that know anything about what that looks and feels like. The theme-park like hotels, world renowned restaurants, creative bars and monstrous malls are all part of the enveloping strategy of driving a burgeoning economy of belief through its bonfire of excess. It's big and unapologetic for it. Why these guys haven't already sent their countrymen to Mars and set up shop there is still beyond my understanding.


View from our room at the Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

View from our room at the Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

View from our room at the Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates


Driving into Dubai was like visiting the comic cartoon world of the Jetsons. If flying Ubers become a thing then you can expect Dubai to visually be that city of your childhood fantasy.  Sheik Zayed road is just a line of what seems like monolithic structures built in honour of the almighty dollar, or dirham. But don't get me wrong, I'm not calling out the overt consumerism and overt everything for being ostentatious, I mean it does that on its own, but for fun and enjoyment, hell, why wouldn't you want to experience a place like this if you could?

We stayed at the magnificent Shangri La Hotel just across from the tallest structure on earth, the Burj Khalifa. For a view that specifically framed the urban Dubai landscape it was impressive. The architectural skyline here is wild and these days extends for kilometres down Sheik Zayed road. I mean there's room to move too and the new Al Maktoum airport, 40kms to the south in Jebel Ali, Dubai's 2nd major import, also kind of frames the boundary of the city. So there appears to be a hell of a lot more growing that Dubai is allowing itself.

Inga & I went to the Burj Khalifa in Down Town Dubai to check out the epitome of what it is to dream big and be the biggest in the World. With a height of 829.8 mtrs,  standing some 160 floors the face of the earth, this architectural artefact of will and engineering also has a hell of an impressive view from its At the top experience - the 148th floor Skydeck, it was something to behold. The lights of the city spread out into the distance and as the light mirrored off the glass exterior of the building typified the 'glitter on glitter' approach that Dubai is known for.


At the top experience - the Skydeck on the 148th floor of the Burj Khalifa - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

At the top experience - the Skydeck on the 148th floor of the Burj Khalifa - Dubai - United Arab Emirates


Dubai - United Arab Emirates


At the top experience - the Skydeck on the 148th floor of the Burj Khalifa - Dubai - United Arab Emirates




Skyview Bar - Burj Al Arab - Dubai - United Arab Emirates


Skyview Bar - Burj Al Arab - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Burj Al Arab - Dubai - United Arab Emirates


Another well known and futuristic design recognised around the world is the Burj al Arab. Standing on its own artificial island built out into the Persian Gulf, this building which hosts the worlds only 7 star hotel, stands out like a sail against the blue of the Gulf. Inga & I went up one evening to watch the sunset and occupy a window position at the Skyview Bar & Restaurant. With an impressive cocktail set and matching canapes to boot, the service was outstanding. The thing that I thought caught the place out somewhat was its garish decor. It looks like the interior of an 80's airport, odd colour matches, shapes and schemes everywhere. I'm not quite sure how they got it so wrong but a place of such repute really needs to review the way it presents itself. It seems way out of touch for its offering and I have seen better at a second rate Las Vegas casino.

Two other typically Dubai things that we did were to take on Ski Dubai, a massive indoor Ski Resort that provides snowboarding  and skiing opportunities and lets families have a full European ski holiday experience in a day whist the Arabian sun beats down 50+ degree temperatures at their front door.  Located inside the massive Mall of the Emirates this attraction has also been significantly upgraded since the first time I was here in 2006, and mind you, it was pretty damn good then. 



Dunes outside of Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Inside the 'Dune bashing experience' - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates


I'd been telling Inga of my snowboarding prowess for sometime now, so finally I was going to be able to show off my snowboarding skills. And sure, I was a bit rusty straight out of the gate (I literally fell over the kids slopes), but I rebounded with aplomb and was carving into the hard pack snow in no time at all. In actual fact MVP of the day had to go to Inga. For a person whose snowboarding skills, for a beginner, were mighty, mighty impressive. What she accomplished in 1hr in Dubai is probably what  I was able to pick up after 3-4 days on my first time out in Perisher.



Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates


We did manage to get out of Dubai one afternoon and took to a 4WD safari that carved up the bright orange sand outside of the city. I had done one of these tours some years ago and totally forgot the enjoyment and at some points fear that flying over the dunes and sailing down improbable slopes felt like. I know that Inga absolutely loved it, especially when some of the turns looked so audacious and outlandish that we felt compelled to brace for a roll. 



Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates


Dubai is one of those cities that you can either love or hate. If you embrace the enormity and are willing to spend a few dollars, which the city nigh demands on you, then you'll have a good time. It'll also help to be into shisha. One of the coolest things to do in Dubai is to find yourself a shisha cafe and puff on some sweet hubbly bubbly that will make your head spin.