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Monday, August 26, 2019

Madrid (Spain) - Haven't we met?

Madrid (Spain)
26 Aug – 29 Aug 2019


Airport lounges are the best, even if you don’t quite get the value out of them that you might anticipate, they do a lot of good for an over-burdened, over-tired and sometimes underwhelmed traveller.



In recent years Inga and I have taken to paying for entry into lounges when our transit time has been 3hrs or more. Aside from the free flowing drinks and buffets, which when you consider it, probably betters the cost and comfort of most airport restaurants/bars.  So let me tell you what the upside is when it comes to parting with $50-$80 to access a lounge.
  • Avoidance of duty free, which immediately negates unnecessary spending
  • Comfort, both in avoidance of foot traffic but more importantly, a place to stretch out and relax
  • Reliable WiFi
  • Reliable service
  • Reading material
  • Showers, amenities, and all things hygiene related
    • And even though I’ve mentioned it, free flowing drinks and food. Have three drinks, a bite to eat and you’ve made your money in an instant

I spent a blissful 3hrs guzzling GnT’s and making unnecessary trips to the dessert bar of the Al Raheem lounge in Abu Dhabi as I waited for my next jump to Amsterdam. With my flight departing at 02:05 the next morning  those blissful G'n'T’s also instigated a welcoming snooze that sent me off to the land of Nod right up until 1hr prior to departure, perfect timing.
A quick boarding process, more snoozing and there I was landing, at Amsterdam’s Schipol airport at 06:50 which in itself gave me flashbacks to late 2014 when I was making my whirlwind trip to Paris, via Amsterdam, in order to have my first date with Inga. Now here I was, just under 5 years later, flying out to Madrid in order to catch up with Inga and my 5 month old son Aiden. Sometimes the whole ride of how we got to now still amazes me.


Battling through the Schengen to Non-Schengen queue at Schipol was a nuisance, but another necessary hurdle for me to overcome in my ‘hop-step-skip’ approach to getting to Madrid, and so it was, with Abu Dhabi & Amsterdam out of the way, all that I need was to skip right on through Lisbon and ‘hey presto’, 'we'd have had airplane rides and Spain appearing out the window side' -  thank you to the Counting Crows for that line.


Flying over Amsterdam - Netherlands

There’s something about Spanish speaking countries that makes me feel good. It activates another part in my mind which both comforts and invigorates me. Understanding the language of course plays a large part in that, so it’s the eternal drawcard now, but that’s only a small part of it’s impact. The people, the culture, the food and way of life simply agrees with the type of person that I am, so there’s not defeating that type of kismet.


At this point it had been over six week since I’d bid farewell to Inga & Aiden from Melbourne’s Tullarmarine airport. But finally, standing on the street of Calle Nunez de Arce just off Plaza Santa Anna and buzzing up to the apartment of where we’d be staying for the next few days, it was time to get reacquainted with my family again. In all honesty, perhaps somewhat surprisingly, those first few hours felt a little odd, almost in the same manner when Inga & I met again in Paris after 4 yrs (not quite as extreme obviously). It’s that feeling of knowing of a person without really knowing them. I almost felt like a ‘friend’ visiting another friend than a husband being reunited with his family. After weeks of Skype and phone calls at odd hours, meeting again in person just felt a little detached from the reality that both of us had been living in.  Not that the feeling lasted for long, perhaps a few hours into the early evening and then everything returned to normal.


I have warms feelings for Madrid. I hold it in high regard, and it's very close to being my favourite city in Europe. This was the city where 10 yrs prior I convinced myself that I would learn Spanish, this being my 'punishment' for obnoxiously ordering a beer in English and believing I was justified in doing that. I recall walking out of that bar feeling a sense of shame and convincing myself that I would return to the same bar and make amends. Thankfully I kept my word and did that 2 years later, but, internally, I have been repaying the debt many more times over since then. Admittedly my Spanish should be far better for the time I've dedicated to it over the years but hey, my life isn't over yet.
Knowing Madrid reasonably well and having 3 Latvians and 1 very small Australian that didn’t know the city at all, it was on me to act as tour guide, which in all honesty I love doing.

Our first day was dedicated to a walking circuit that I had mentally planned out a few days prior. Madrid , for the most part, is a very pedestrian friendly town. So walking is not arduous in the slightest. Flat & accessible, I honestly believe that one of the best ways to experience this place is just to walk. So starting in Puerta del Sol we headed to Plaza Mayor, the Palacio Real, walked along the Gran Via and had a stop at one my favourite Rock Cafes (Hard Rock Madrid).

Palacio Real de Madrid from Templo de Debod - Madrid - Spain
The afternoon was dedicated to Retiro Park, which is simply gorgeous. This beautifully maintained, immaculate park in the city centre is a perfect way for Madrilenos to enjoy warm Summer days, bathed under the glorious light directly, or diffused by the abundance of trees. We adopted the local approach and picked our own piece of grass, to be supported by our own bottle of wine and few glasses in the comfort of the wonderful surrounds. A perfect afternoon jaunt in such a regal city.


Our 2nd day in Madrid utilised the services of the ‘Hop-on-Hop-off’ express, which respectfully, whilst handy and a comfort for those that don’t like walking, practically took use along the circuit which I’d introduced to the crew the day before. It did however provide us with the opportunity to visit Templo de Debod, a shrine that was originally located near Aswan Egypt but due to the building of the Aswan Dam, was relocated to, in this case, Madrid, in order to preserve a construct of cultural significance. For me, whilst the story of the Templo and its relocation is impressive, the true drawcard is the view from its standing location in the city, personally a much more impressive feature.
The afternoon I’d dedicated to a culinary stop of significance, El Botin (Sobrino de Botin), understood to be the oldest active restaurant in the world. Founded in 1725, the restaurant, according to the Guinness Book of Records is the oldest, and is famous for two specialities, it’s suckling pig and roasted lamb.


Plaza Mayor - Madrid - Spain

Plaza Mayor - Madrid - Spain







The choice between having a famous meat dish or having another, equally as delectable equivalent is like choosing between favourite children (I’m told), or perhaps choosing between a great white or red wine. When it comes down to it, it’s all about mood and about getting ‘some pork on your fork’, which is where the collective conscious of our tastebuds took us.




The oldest continuously operating restaurant in the world - El Botin - Madrid - Spain

Post our participation in the ongoing achievement of El Botin we all took a leisurely still down to the Prado Museum, recognised as having one of the finest collections of European art, dating back to the 12th century and extended all the way to the 20th. There are extensive works on display, with special significance given to Spanish artists such as Greco, Velazquez and Goya, but includes many other European names such as Bosch, Rubens & Titian amongst others.
Now, the thing about museums of this stature, that have a weight of significance is that without a true dedication by the participant of time and interest, you generally become the tourist of transit. A passenger that places a geographic pin on their mental map of achievements. Unfortunately with a 5 month old and a group of 4 adults, some of whom were not particularly interested in the various displays, our time become more laborious and a quest to resolving logistics rather than anything else. So for me, this top was disappointing in all honesty.


As another gorgeous early Autumn day closed out, Inga and I spent some time in Plaza Santa Ana before heading to the Mercado San Miguel, a real highlight in terms of food, drinks and activity. It’s been a favourite stop of mine in Madrid since my first time here some 10 years ago and it’s just a delight, not only for what’s available but visually, it shows you what a market can be. A real drawcard without needing to have that gritty feel of a typical street market. It’s a neighbourhood focal point and is more of a meeting place in the way that a local bar might be, just that this bar contains a whole range of vendors and you can peruse their wares in comfort before sitting down, grabbing a few snack plates and indulging in your favourite tipple.


Plaza Santa Ana - Madrid - Spain


Plaza Santa Ana - Madrid - Spain

I like this method of living. The late night, food, wine and banter is just right up my alley. It’s a point that I’ve commented on many times before in my blog and I feel the Australian culture in terms of nightlife and the night economy is less for not adopting this Spanish/Latin approach. In Australia we target restriction as the method to prevention where really the shift needs to be both in mentality and opportunity. Wouldn’t we be better served by having restaurants, bars, and all other forms of business open for longer? We have such a fixed mindset that Friday nights and Saturday nights are set as dedicated sessions for drinking that when we press the release valve bedlam ensues. How is it that major European cities operate with much later hours, have bars freely accessible and don’t have the same issue of violence that we have? Unless we’ve deliberately cast ourselves under the guise of a ‘yob’ culture then one of the reasons of our failure is what we bring about by restricting, rather than being more open.




Parque de el Retiro - Madrid - Spain

Parque de el Retiro - Madrid - Spain

Rooftop bar on the Gran Via - Madrid - Spain



Of course in Australia we live in a very typical ‘Nanny State’ where control is exerted under the pretence protection, pandered by bureaucrats who have their own agendas through these controlling methods.

Makes you consider moving – maybe we just might.