Melbourne (Australia) - Hanoi (Vietnam)
29 September - 02 October
It's been over a year since our lives had allowed us the luxury of prolonged travel. Those rare breaks that we had managed to squeeze into long weekends or the occasional day of annual leave were like temporary life-support systems, brief respites from daily life that in itself was the the gap that filled in the time between the current state and the next destination.
I've always felt that travel was like our personal battery charger, something that we carried which allowed us to bridge the chasm between being our languid, weary and burnt-out selves to being the refreshed and re-charged specimens. And whilst I know this to be true, somehow, to my chagrin, there's always an element of frustration when someone asks, 'do you feel refreshed after your break'? It's almost as if they're saying, 'has your time away given you the opportunity to refocus your efforts to work harder'?
Certainly if you're reading this you may think that all I'm really doing is wishing away my time in order to get from one block of travel to the next but really, when you think about it, isn't that something that we do on a micro-level each and every day? Consider our internal monologues, 'I can't wait for my first coffee this morning', 'If only I can make it to the weekend', 'All I need is that first drink at the end of the day'. It's that constant train of thought projecting us forward to a future that we perceive will be more palatable than the moment in which a forward projecting thought exists. And of course, there's an answer to this seemingly relentless desire for release or for escapism, and it lies at the centre of how individually we go about identifying our own purpose and discovering inspiration in each day. Whatever that magical formula is, how we construct a manner in order to conjure up joy and fulfilment from the ordinary and to ensure we're present in the moment, well, that has to be the key, right?. And sure, identifying daily events as 'ordinary' might be the starting point. Or perhaps the starting point is just admitting that whatever it is that I've written is something that warrants a deeper level of thought and consideration? Well either way, what's written is here and it exists, so my momentary existential crises has been averted....right?
Hanoi
Travel for me now is different from when I was single. Back then I both anticipated and expected 'hard travel'.
If you don't know what mean by the term 'hard travel' its what I refer to when I reference such things as 'extended layovers', 'long duration uncomfortable journeys/commutes between destinations', 'hostels', 'questionable decision making', 'sleeping on cold floors' et al.
Certainly 'hard travel' inevitably finds its way into your best stories and greatest memories but when you have a four year old that has his own demands and needs, soft travel becomes the imperative, i.e., short transits, comfortable point to point travel, accommodation with reasonable amenities. It's all part of the 'Daddy travel service'.
So, by the the time flight Vietnam Airlines flight VN780 was thundering down the runway at Melbourne Tullamarine airport we had already been picked up from our North Melbourne abode and been seamlessly delivered to the international terminal, had been ushered to the front of queues with the aid of our golden 'toddler pass' which identifies us as high priority travellers and were already a couple of champagnes to the good - soft holiday mode had been well and truly activated.
Most of our journey to Hanoi was relatively painless, except for the excruciating 1hr wait that we endured in the mindlessly tedious, wearisome and desperately painful experience at border control in Ho Chi Minh, which unfortunately served as our introduction to Vietnam. Certainly I understand the need for due process but man, there's a pace of processing that is relatively standard on a global scale and there there was this which certainly felt like it was taking piss. FYI, this is the only complaint that will come to pass in my blog posts about Vietnam on this trip, so in no way does it or should it reflect on this magnificent country. But you know, if you want to step up your 'first impression game', well boys, give me a call for some ideas and we'll run a few workshops.
Arriving in Hanoi
Reflecting back on the first time I arrived in Hanoi, some 16 yrs ago now, which you can read about in the blog below, I kind of knew what we might encounter and hence there were things that I was hoping we didn't:
http://hdbc2.blogspot.com/2007/12/hanoi-rocks-phoc-yew-long-time.html
During the course of my 16+ yrs of blog writing I've also discussed my feelings about evening/late night arrivals in foreign locations. Personally, I think that any part of the world that is unknown to you, which is first witnessed through that initial veil of darkness, is magnificent way to have a first experience. Driving down unknown roads that are punctuated by yellow or orange hues of artificial light, with strange people entering your frame of reference going about their lives, witnessing oddities of the new, it all comes together to mix with your internal energy to create what I call a 'weight of mystery'. There's a mood and sense of gravity that's both simultaneously alluring and apprising, which in and of itself encapsulates the essence of travel addiction.
The centre of Hanoi is hectic. Your first impressions are those of chaos, tumult, high energy and impending carnage.
Now, with 'soft travel' in play may have already guessed that I'd booked a car to get us to our hotel in Hanoi's old quarter but what I didn't know is that this was the evening of the Full Moon. Traffic chaos gets powered up by a factor of 'insane' and it felt like our SUV was merely floating in a turbulent torrent of motorised mayhem. The sounds of horns, engines, foreign voices - our vehicle was trapped. We were blocks from our hotel and we were locked into by a swathe of humans occupied with their motorised intent.
Inga & Aiden were sitting in the back seat and both were amazed at what they were witnessing. The only thing I could like it to was the arrival that I experienced with my parents in Marrakech some 13 years prior:
http://hdbc2.blogspot.com/2010/07/crash-tackled-by-marrakechi-madness.html
We weren't exactly stranded but as the minutes ticked by and our driver conversed with our hotel...and the conversations continued...and driver frustration grew, it started to become obvious that somehow we were going to have to carve through the motorised madness our own degree of purpose, and whilst Inga & Aiden were excited to witness what was going on, it was me that was getting a surge of anxiety driven adrenalin. The 'dad' part of Henry was thinking about 'logistics', 'maintenance of safety' and really, just preserving life. Thankfully, after about 20 mins a small team from May de Ville hotel came to our rescue and absconded with our luggage, leaving us with a mild mannered porter that 'appeared' to have logistical knowledge...so we went with it. Thankfully our oasis of calm in the Old Quarter was only 800mtrs away.
Hoan Kiem Lake & Train Street
Walking in central Hanoi is a dichotomy of self-preservation and calming tranquility. There's certainly a method to encountering waves of mopeds and a level of bravery, assuredness & relinquishment in handing over the reigns of your lives to the organic movement of vehicles around your body. You need to trust in their capability and also trust that your moment aligns to their expectation. Surprisingly, Inga & Aiden were naturals. Unperturbed and revelling in the experience they accepted the challenge without concern, which in itself drove my level of anxiety for them down immensely.
Hoan Kiem lake on the other hand, nestled in the heart of Hanoi, is a captivating oasis of serenity and calm amidst the bursting bustle of life in the capital. Somehow life seems to slow down and the 'Lake of the returned sword' is the perfect foil from the vibrant chaos, offering scenic beauty from its lush greenery and soothing waters.
Walking in the heat and humidity of the midday sun, we made our way around the lake, observing the ordinary movement of life on an average Saturday afternoon. At some point Aiden asked that we take his 'footy' out and we started kicking his North Melbourne ball around to the bemusement of some locals, who from the looks of things may not have encountered Australian Rules football at any time in their lives.
At some point we collectively made the decision to head down to train street. Now, for those that you that don't know, Train Street is both a unique and popular tourist attraction, located in the middle of the Old Quarter. It's drawcard is a an extremely narrow street that runs directly through the middle of an inner city neighbourhood. And when I say 'directly through', I mean that if you take two steps from your back door then you're standing in the middle of the rail line. Officially the street name is known as Duong Le Duan, but due to its 'distinctive' features, Train Street seems to be far more apt.
So all three of us jumped into a rickshaw and we slowly made our way from Hoan Kiem lake to the rail line. This was cool. In the travel experiences that I've been fortunate to have, I know that sometimes it can actually take a few days to get into the swing of travelling and being in a new place, also, there are moments when it just clicks and you feel the change. For me it was this simple cycle down to Train Street.
When we arrived on the street there were already people sitting outside the small cafes and restaurants that line both sides of the tracks, and what automatically catches your attention is just the proximity of the line to the houses. I mean its obvious, that's what you're there to see but watching YouTube videos doesn't do it justice. You can literally step from the back door of one of these residence, stick your hand out and run it down the outside of a carriage.
Also, for anyone that might be reading this because they're interested in Train Street, lets go with some basics.
[1] As of 01 October 2023, it was open for tourists. I had read on many sites that the circumstance on Train Street was subject to change when the safety concerns became 'prevalent', which means, 'who knows'. Thankfully when we turned up it was 'all systems go'.
[2] Before you're even on the street you'll have random individuals grabbing you're hand and guiding you to 'spots' on the street. These of course are cafe/restaurant owners and they're more than invested in having all arrivals occupy spaces in front of the space that they have available. It's a little bit of a guessing game regarding prime spots and the best seating which in all honesty, looks fairly much the same to me. Anywhere you sit will have about the same view and perspective as anywhere else.
[3] Apparently the trains run on time, so you're fairly safe in waiting according to the train schedule. Asking locals 'when will the train arrive' seems like a guessing game as you get a multitude of answers but the range of responses was within 30 mins of each other
[4] The final question - is it worth it? Sure it is. It's an experience. From the build up to the train passing within inches of you, the experience is more than worthwhile and you can experience all of it for the cost of a couple of drinks. Why the hell wouldn't you do it?
Old Quarter - Hanoi
There's something that I've always enjoyed about the Old Quarter in Hanoi. This part of the city is vibrant, constantly in operation and always engaging. Architecturally its characterised by its narrow, winding streets, traditional Vietnamese architecture, i.e., meaning 'tube houses', which are long and narrow, with small frontages that extend into deep blocks. But what's engaging about it it is that there's no real rhyme or reason, there's a massage location, and then a tourist agency, a place that sells banh mi's and then a random cafe. There's a multitude of sights, sounds & smells, which all come together to make this place unique.
On our first night we ended up at Ta Hien Beer Street, which typifies exactly what the Old Quarter of Hanoi is about. Of course it's a little different these days with the little guy in tow but my previous experiences tell me what if you're looking for some decent nightlife in Hanoi, then this is probably where you should make an appearance.
http://hdbc2.blogspot.com/2010/02/rock-star-and-invisible-man-air-asia.html
Our second day in Hanoi was just as relaxed. Around mid-afternoon Inga headed off for a massage whilst Aiden and I hung out at the outdoor pool on Level 10, which also happened to have a mighty fin view of the city.
We rounded out our second evening by going to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre. It's a famous cultural attraction in Hanoi and the puppetry represents a traditional form of Vietnamese art that dates back to the 11th century in the Red River delta of Northern Vietnam. In terms of the performance, the water puppetry involves puppeteers manipulating wooden puppets on a water stage, which of itself creates both a magical and stunning visual effect.
The theatre itself is world renowned, having been established in 1969, the group have travelled the globe and it has become a significant cultural institution in Vietnam, both due to the fact that it is preserving and promoting a traditional artform. A truly engaging experience.
And there you have it. My third time in Hanoi.
You know, Hanoi was never a placed that I dreamed of visiting and it was never high on my list of priorities. Within the pre-written book of 'Henry Elisher' there's certainly a number of locations that my future self will have locked in his memory. I certainly never expected Hanoi to appear on that list three times but I am forever blessed that it has. This place is engaging, its alive and surprisingly inviting. I loved coming here as a single person but I have to say, I've enjoyed it just as much with a family. To share these experience, to appreciate the 'art of movement' and meld yourself into the organic nature of life on the streets. There's something inviting and charming about this city which I hope, somewhere in the pages of my life, is written another on my experiences in Hanoi. For now, I say thank you for accepting me once again, and I hope to see you once again in the not too distant future.
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