Da Nang (Vietnam)
08 - 10 October 2023
In 1965, the shores of Da Nang bore witness to an indelible moment etched in history—the landing of American troops, their footprints mingling with the grains of sand on those golden beaches. Yet, as the relentless passage of time marches forward, those echoes have gradually dissipated into the sea breeze. The once-significant presence, a pivotal chapter in the annals of war, now wanes into obscurity. These sands, once imprinted by the weight of valour and conflict, now cradle the foundations of towering hotels, standing as sentinels to a forgotten past. The whispers of those who once walked this shore have been swept away by the tides, leaving behind a landscape where memories lie dormant, buried beneath layers of progress and tranquillity.
American troops - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam 1965
Who knows how many faces in that photo are just memories in someone's mind, who knows how many of them made it back home, and how many were unfortunate enough to have their lives cruelly cut short so far from home.
It's nearly 60 yrs since those soldiers set foot on My Khe beach, and certainly for me standing there, looking at the surrounding plumes of tourist-driven capitalism with some knowledge of the events that have occurred here, it seems to be a strange dichotomy. The weight and gravity of war simply washed away with the passing of time, without considering its impact, without a concern. I understand that's probably not entirely the case but it does feel peculiar and a little challenging to simply accept Da Nang (My Khe Beach) for what it now stands for, which is a beautiful and burgeoning tourist destination.
Tourane Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam (2007)
Tourane Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam (2007)
It had been 16 years since the last time I had stay in Da Nang, which was at the Tourane Hotel on My Khe beach. Now when I had booked in our two night stay at the Sala Da Nang hotel, just off My Khe beach, I really had no idea at the location of my previous stay all those years prior. But as is the case with me, which Inga can certainly attest to, the moment we arrived at our accommodation I was overwhelmed by a sense of the familiar - I even said to Inga, 'I think I've stayed very near to here previously' and pointed at the Tourane Hotel (the back of the hotel being directly across the street from our current location). It's odd how some specific locations have the ability to will you back.
Our stay in Da Nang on this occasion was to just allow us to fully immerse ourselves in 'holiday mode', soak up the lovely beach atmosphere and commit to not doing much else other than relaxing, drinking the odd cocktail and admiring the wonderful views.
Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam
Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam
Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam
Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam
Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam
The whole coastline from Da Nang down to Hoi An is being overrun and occupied by every hotel chain you can imagine. Mega resort after mega resort for 10's of kilometres. Certainly the invasion had already commenced prior to my first experience of Da Nang in 2007, and even at that time you were more than aware that the explosion of hotels on this pristine coastline was going to have an incredible impact on the landscape, as well as the economy. What was once an untouched stretch of coastline now stands adorned with a multitude of accommodations, ranging from boutique retreats to towering luxury resorts. The allure of this coastal haven has beckoned developers and tourists alike, resulting in an evolving skyline where each hotel competes for a panoramic view of the cerulean sea. I wonder, if I come back here in another 16 years what exactly will I see? I replica of the Gold Coast, or even Dubai perhaps.
Dragon Bridge (Rong Bridge) - Han River - Da Nang - Vietnam
Dragon Bridge (Rong Bridge) - Han River - Da Nang - Vietnam
Dragon Bridge (Rong Bridge) - Han River - Da Nang - Vietnam
The most we managed to do outside of lazing around the hotel pool or going to the beach to walk the 2kms was to the famous Dragon Bridge which stretches 665mtrs across the Han River in downtown Da Nang. The bridge is shaped like an undulating golden dragon and on weeknights it comes to life in quite an unusual way: the bridge is closed to traffic, and the massive dragon head on the east end of the bridge releases bursts of flames and water in a spectacular nightly show. I have to say, we were fully expectant of the flames but the bursts of water were a 'refreshing' surprise, and it quickly turned every person standing in its path into a young child once again. It was terrific.
Dragon Bridge (Rong Bridge) - Han River - Da Nang - Vietnam
Dragon Bridge (Rong Bridge) - Han River - Da Nang - Vietnam
View of Da Nang from the Sala Da Nang Beach Hotel - My Khe Beach - Vietnam
Esco Beach Lounge - My Khe Beach - Da Nang - Vietnam
On the way home - Vietnam Airlines - Da Nang > Hanoi > Ho Chi Minh > Melbourne
And that my friends was the final brush stroke of our Vietnamese holiday. What a beautiful, well earned, and what I anticipate to be 'a well remembered' holiday it was for all of us. I was slightly concerned at the start that Vietnam might be a little difficult, even arduous for a four-year old, but it was nothing of the sort. Our travels were easy and our experiences were exciting, fun and very enjoyable. I've always found Vietnam to be a very special country for the many things it has to offer, it's people, food, landscapes, history, etc., and now I'd be more than happy to recommend it has a family holiday destination. A truly wonderful experience and hopefully a place that we'll all get to experience together again at some point in the future.
