South Korea - it's a wrap

South Korea - It's a wrap

16 July 2025

As has become standard for me when I've ended a trip I've taken to doing a last summary or a 'greatest hits' review whenever I managed to complete the final entry on the 'how, why, when and whatever else may have been alcohol related' blog series of my most recent escapades.  Usually at this point I’ll write, ‘sticking with the tradition of other escapades’, but the fact is that in more recent entries I just didn’t get around to completing a wrap. So lets now celebrate the belated return of the tour wrap ……

,,,,,I therefore bring you the close out of my South Korea experience, So let’s do it, here are the highs, lows, hits and misses of imagining your own Korea tour.

[Morocco - Europe wrap - June/July 2008]

[Laos wrap - April 2009]

[Vietnam-Malaysia wrap - December/January 2009/10]

[Europe - Morocco - South America wrap 2010]

[USA - Mexico wrap - February/March 2011]

[Brazil/U.A.E wrap - December/January 2011/12]

South Korea - 2025

Favourite places

In Seoul it has to be Euljiro, or as the locals call it, ‘Hipjiro’ – one of Seoul’s most captivating contrasts. By day, a maze of hardware shops and prints stores, but by night, this place exudes mystery, energy and promise. A hidden playground of speakeasies, craft beer bars, restaurants and multi-coloured neon-lit alleyways – to quote myself from the original blog piece, a neon-soaked playground of vibrant energy with subtle dystopian undertones. Intoxicating a vibrant, this is stands out as my favourite nighttime destination in Seoul.

Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

In Busan I rate Gwangalli beach highly. I was drawn to it by its Saturday evening drone show and then quickly came to realise that this location had a laid-back seaside charm that also has a buzzing nightlife equal to any major city. Framed by the glittering Gwangan bridge, I witnessed the shoreline transform during the early evening into a strip of bustling, thrumming, bars and restaurants. At some point I found myself in a bowling alley on the 10^th floor of a building, having a drink and looking out onto the Gwangan bridge – that to me was the epitome of a cool experience and kinds of sums up what I think of South Korea.

Gwangalli Beach - Busan - South Korea

Gwangan bridge from Gwangalli Beach - Busan - South Korea

Most surprising

This response is less about a place or area and more about Seoul’s café culture obsession. If Melbourne is the café hub of Australia ( a badge that it wears with pride), then Seoul is an alpha city, competing easily with any contender or pretender to that throne. Every neighbourhood boasts stylish, themed, and very ‘Instagrammable’ destinations. On my first day in Seoul I spent some time on Café Onion, in Anguk (Jongo) district, and it was an experience. I also passed Soha Salt Pond in Ikseon-dong, which from the outside looked like more of a destination than a place to get a caffeine hit, but be sure, the output is certainly equal to the hype. For my experience, Anguk, Ikseon-dong & Seongsu-dong were teeming with cafes – which also aligns to another surprising element beyond the caffeine fixes, there seems to be a deep appreciation and loved for baked goods. Obviously there’s an association here but boutique bakeries are everywhere. I often passed the Artist Bakery in Anguk and there was never a time that the line didn’t go out the door and wind around the building. Each bakery takes the time to carefully craft & present their delicate, artisanal wares. This is an experience and something not to be missed when in Seoul.

Cafe Onion - Anguk - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

Cafe Onion - Anguk - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

Coolest place for a night out

Euljiro in Seoul and Gwangalli Beach in Busan were my standouts. Honourable mentions in Seoul go to Hongdae, Itaewon and Ikseon-dong, with Ikseon-dong being my favourite from the runners-up. To me, Ikseon-dong felt like a secret village hidden in plain sight. In a city of 8 million people, stepping off the main street and into its hanok alleys was like walking into an open air speakeasy. Intimate bars, cocktail dens and quirky cafes abound in the midst of beautiful collaboration of old world charm and modern creativity. I also want to highlight Seosulla-gil  in the Jongno District which became familiar to me through my nightly walks home. An ‘up and comer’ in Seoul, this is being identified as a ‘to-be’ hip destination before being widely accepted as such. Get there now.

Ikseon-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Ikseon-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Best accommodation

I only stayed in two locations, so instead of nominating an actual property, I'll nominated the areas that I think would make great stays. In Seoul, for me the Jongno District or Ikseon-dong had it in spades. In all my pre-travel research I was taking bets on Myeongdong for how central it is, or, Itaewon for its integrated nightlife - I don't believe that either would have been appropriate for me. Jongno and Ikseon-dong have a lovely blend of the old charm of Seoul, with the new, creative, modern hip spirit of youth. These areas feel more refined, are trendier and less crowded, but have far more appeal that the high flyers mentioned. In Busan I stayed on Haeundae beach, which was fantastic but would give this one to Gwangalli beach on reflection. Gwangalli seemed to have a bit more of everything in the night life stakes but with that said, both were fantastic.

Best drink

Soju is the undeniable king here. With me it had an inauspicious start on my second morning when I grabbed a bottle out of fridge at the Benikea – The Bliss, hotel in Incheon. It didn’t earn any plaudits on its debut. Usually a distilled rice drink, it presents as clear, smooth and slightly sweet. Drinking it out of the bottle ‘just for kicks’ did nothing, but with that said, I knew nothing. The moment that I paired it with my favourite style of meal, usually a spicy or savoury dish, then the whole world of soju made perfect sense.

Soju - Itaewon - Seoul - South Korea

Best meal

This one is easy, Dak-galbi is a dish of bite sized chicken pieces marinated in the wonderful gochujang sauce/marinade, which imparts a spice, sweet and savoury taste. The chicken is stir-fried with vegetables and then topped with cheese. When paired with soju the combination is an epicurean delight. An honourable mention goes to tteokbokki, also a fiery & sweet street made food, made from chewy rice cakes and simmered in a bold gochujang sauce. That darn gochujang is so addictive that it was one of the first things I sought out once I arrived back in Melbourne. A shout out to the stall holders at Gwangjang market that made my tteokbokki experience all the more enjoyable.

My favourite disk - Dak-galbi - Itaewon - Seoul - South Korea

Gwangjan market - Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Tteok-Bokki - Gwangjan market - Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Best bars

Honestly, too many to mention. I’ve already identified Euljiro and Gwangalli beach as key in Seoul and Busan, and I would be remiss if I also didn’t mention Huaendae beach in Busan, which was the near equal of Gwangalli. So rather than naming the best bar, I’ll give this one to both an interesting and surprising option, which is Sul 24 on Seousulla-gil 53 - Jongno District – Seoul. This place is literally an unmanned bar, run 24hrs per day, 365 days of the year. There’s no staff, no pressure, just grab your own drinks and enjoy. It says a lot about South Korea and its people that this place work without an issue.

Sul 24 on Seousulla-gil 53 - Jongno District – Seoul - South Korea

Favourite photos

The nightscape is so vibrant - Gunam-ro - Haeundae - Busan - South Korea

The back alleys of Euljiro - this to me is evokes those feels of mystery, energy and discovery

Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

I took this whilst walking the back streets of Itaewon - its simple but there's something cool about it

Itaewon - Seoul - South Korea

Sky capsules in Haeundae - I love how the capsules traverses the skyline

Haeundae beach - Busan - South Korea

Early evening on Cheonggyecheon canal - Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Coolest moments

Sitting outside at another wonderful bar in Euljiro, looking out onto a little lantern filled alley, I was just in the moment and truly enjoying the whole experience.

Un-coolest moment

Seoul works so efficiently, everything makes sense and is intuitive, even for the first time tourist, but what I can’t figure out for the life of me is why a travel pass can only be topped up with cash. There was no option to top up with a credit card, which in itself presented a problem to me when I lost my initial travel card and was able to get a replacement, but couldn’t place any credit onto it. Going around to find an ATM presented such an unnecessary nuisance, especially on my last day.

Most random but still cool moment

On my first night wondering Anguk, I walked into a cute little bar hidden inside a Hanok village, and there I met barman Min, bartender, resident DJ and great guy extraordinaire. He was so attentive, so personable and on my second night in attendance, he let me bash out a really bad version of What’s the story morning glory. If I can somehow find the name of the bar at a later stage, I’ll include the link.

My man Min, spinning some tunes for me in Anguk - Seoul - South Korea

Best comeback

This relates directly to my un-coolest moment and just goes to show how acting like a confused foreigner will give you liberties that otherwise wouldn’t exist. After misplacing my travel card the evening before and not wanting to run around with my luggage to find an ATM, I elected to play dumb through various metro lines, acting confused and bewildered whenever I was pulled up for ‘insufficient funds’. The most I was every interrogated was at my final stop at Incheon Airport where the transit officer quizzed me on where I purchased the card, how many won I added, etc. After a couple minutes of a circular argument he obviously realised the futility of the situation and let me through – case closed.

Travel breakdown

Total number of flights - 2

Total flying hours – 18 hrs

Total time spent in airports - 'Not many, if any...' - All recognition and rights to that line go to Scribe, not may people can roll like him!

Total number of train rides - 1

Total number of bus rides - 1

Total number of sky capsule ride - 2

Total distance travelled – 17220 kms

Total bottles of Soju downed - 12 (give or take)

Thank you South Korea

Incheon Airport - Incheon - South Korea

South Korea, the surprise packet! Energetic, vibrant and running towards the future, whilst at the same time, incorporating its culture in a number of ways to ensure that its preserved for generations to come. A truly engaging, wonderful place. I can’t wait to come back and spend more time here.

Seoul (South Korea) - The Hongdae Seoul Show

Seoul (South Korea)

09 July 2025

Hongdae, short for Hongik University, is described as one of Seoul’s most dynamic neighbourhoods, known for its youthful energy, creativity and nightlife. The area thrives on the influence of the nearby art and design university, giving rise to a vibrant mix of indie music, street performances, quirky cafés, and underground clubs. Murals and street art line narrow lanes, while boutique shops and themed restaurants cater to the district’s eclectic crowd. By day it’s a hub for fashion, food, and art lovers, and by night it transforms into a buzzing hotspot of live music, dance, and nightlife that captures the spirit of modern Seoul. My research often identified Hongdae as the youthful hub and for some reason pushing the area as being slightly insular as opposed to Itaewon which was said to be open and welcoming to all.

Hongdae - Seoul - South Korea

Hongdae - Seoul - South Korea

Hongdae - Seoul - South Korea

Hongdae - Seoul - South Korea

I spent a late afternoon and evening in Hongdae and found it to be far more appealing that Myeong-dong and Itaewon. Certainly youthful in spirit and vibrancy there was a great atmosphere the afternoon that I arrived. The streets buzzing with young 20 somethings, all just commencing their respective journeys to success or destruction – there was an exuberance and a sense of excitement. It was nice to walk around the area and experience the raft of restaurants, trendy cafes and hipster style shops. For me, it ranked above Itaewon and a long way in front of Myeong-dong, but still well below Ikseon-dong, Euljiro and Insa-dong. And that exactly what was great about Seoul, each of those areas had its own identity and feel, all influenced by its own construct. An area that in part is a blend of gritty, colourful streets, some of the narrow alleyways were lined with murals, graffiti and various installations. There was something a little Melbourne-esque about it, which is cool in its own right.

KPop Dreams - Hongdae - Seoul - South Korea

Ice cream dreams - Hongdae - Seoul - South Korea

A cultural playground, a late-night festival, charged with the raw electricity of youth – the bold fabric of this district is woven from individuality, spirit and the audacity to take risks. Its certainly worth a visit.

Moving out of Hongdae, I made my way back to Jongno 3(sam)-ga station – which as a I’ve already mentioned, along with Euljiro, became my most loved parts of Seoul. This area suited me perfectly. Free and easy, pubs, restaurants and food stalls intermingled together in a wonderful carefree blend of feel good nightlife.

Saeseoul retro game arcade - one of the film locations for Squid Games

bright neon lights - vibrant and yet shadowed - like there's something inherently mysterious about the place

Ikseon-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Sul 24 - The 'do it yourself' bar where there's no staff but there are drinks 24-7-365

Seousulla-gil - Jogno District - Seoul - South Korea

A few nights into my Seoul adventure, I have to say that there was a lot to like. There was diversity, energy, vibrance, tradition, a synthesis and harmonisation of a variety of elements. There was a sense of balance but at the same time, an inertia and momentum. Much to like, for sure.

Seoul (South Korea) - 50 in 5eOuL

 Seoul (South Korea)

06 July 2025

I turned 50 just four days ago and you know what,  it’s not at all what I expected it to be.

When I was a kid, people in their fifties seemed to be ancient relics. Not that children today see their elders too much differently but back then 50 really looked the part, grey hair, extra weight, general resignation and a quiet acceptance that life was unwinding into the inevitable final chapter.

I’ve read arguments online about whether it’s a myth that people today look younger for their age and whether they are in fact ageing at a slower rate. Part of that seems to be true, part of that is perspective. All I know is that  for me, 50 feels far , far better than I ever imagined it to be. I can still do almost everything I did in my twenties. The only real  changes are that I can’t run quite as fast and my eyesight has slipped noticeably within the last two years. Beyond that, there’s little difference in my physical or mental capacity, which I’m going to keep going for as long as possible.

But, what has this got to do with my time in Seoul? Well, here I was – 50 in 5e0ul, at an age where life was meant to be pulling the reigns and slowing me down. But let me tell you now, that’s not even moderately close the truth and the way that I’ve been operating. There’s plenty of wanderlust, curiosity and energy to keep me going for a long, long time yet , as a well as a 6 yr old son that doesn’t quite know just yet that his dad was on the older side of the scale when he was born….he pushes me and I certainly will be pushing him for as long as I can. As long as I can maintain a decent amount of health then 50 doesn’t need to be the signal for taking my foot of the accelerator.

Anonymity in travel is a gift. I love being able to move through a new city, immersed in its culture and its crowds, absorbing everything that I’m able to whilst remaining comfortable in my own bubble, free from the need to perform, to communicate in a certain way, or to live up to any personal brand. There’s almost a sense of unburdening in that there are no real expectations on you and what you discover, what you absorb and what you learn, it’s totally on you. There’s no right or wrong answer. That’s a part of travel that I really love, and maybe there’s a form of unrealistic detachment in that approach, but many times I feel as though I’m a voyeur, observing remotely rather than noticing that I’m an active participant.

View of N Seoul Tower from the rooftop of the AirBnB - Jongno district - Seoul - South Korea

Changdeokgung Palace - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

Streetscape - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

My first full day in Seoul began with the journey from Incheon to the Jongno district, where I’d booked an Airbnb for the next three nights. As would become the norm during my time in South Korea, even with the obvious language barrier, everything in my daily scenario, each activity and action felt efficient that the usual challenges of travel were reduced to little more than exercises in logic and deduction. Navigating the metro, in particular, was a pleasure and quickly became one of the highlights of Seoul, offering effortless access to every corner of the city.

My first afternoon was centred around Gye-dong, within the Jongo district. The area is characterised by a traditional Korean style of build, ‘Hanoks’,  which are buildings designed to evoke and reflect the distinctive character of Korean aesthetics within its design quality. Whether the area was ‘authentic’ or just a modern characterisation of the traditional Korean ideal, it was very appealing to me. An historic area infused with contemporary cafes, dining and retail, it was a lovely place to immerse myself for the afternoon and just walk around within my own tempo.

The first place that I randomly found but recognised through earlier research, was Café Onion. Located in Anguk,  it is one of the most popular cafes in all of Seoul, known for its location within a gorgeous hanok, its wonderful courtyard and exquisite interior (and exterior). Aside from the aesthetic, the house made pastry and bread options were divine but as I discovered, not at all unique within a city that has an incredible passion for café’s, bakeries and great food. Indeed, everywhere small alley that I wandered in this area revealed another artisanal bakery or vibrant café – which just added to my quickly expanding list of must tries.

Cafe Onion - Anguk - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

Cafe Onion - Anguk - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

Min was kind enough to spin some tunes for me at this wonderful bar (bar name forgotten) - Anguk - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

Hanok - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

I had a quite comfortable and ‘smooth’ afternoon in this area of Jongno. In fact, reflecting on my time in Seoul, it all seemed to tranquilly wash over me, no challenges or difficulties. Kind of like wading through the shallow end of a pool, there’s not going to be any major surprises unless something goes dreadfully wrong, or, you feel an uneasy warmth around your legs because you’ve just past through a group of 5 yr olds.

My evening stroll drew me down into the area of Ikseon-dong, apparently one of Seoul’s most atmospheric neighbourhoods, and certainly one that became a favourite of mine during my stay. Tucked away within the heart of the city, its known for its narrow alleyways lined with traditional hanok houses, that very much like Gye-dong, have been transformed into stylish café’s, boutique shops, teahouses and restaurants. The area felt intimate, and at night, had a sense of mystery about it. Being so close to where I was staying the area was a real pleasure to allow myself to simply meander around and let myself just absorb my surrounds, taking in its vibrancy & charm, all without having to be on a deadline.

Ikseon-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Ikseon-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Ikseon-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Walking back to the AirBnB late in the evening, I strolled along Seosulla-gil, which sidles up against the grounds of the Jongmyo Shrine. A truly pleasant night with an evening temperature of about 28 degrees and thankfully dropping humidity. The day had seen the temperatures head into the mid-30’s with humidity in the mid 80’s, so the respite was welcome and even better were the proliferation of bars. My walk turned more into a bar-hop, with each stop being a new discovery, a new memory and a new reflection on what was starting to feel like quite dynamic & engaging city.

Seosulla-gil - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

Seosulla-gil - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

View of N Seoul Tower from the rooftop of the AirBnB - Jongno district - Seoul - South Korea