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Showing posts with label La Comptoir Darna. Show all posts
Showing posts with label La Comptoir Darna. Show all posts

Monday, October 16, 2017

Marrakech (Morocco) - The metropolis of Atlas tribes

MARRAKECH (Morocco)
15 October - 21 October 2017


Marrakech is relentless, your senses are accosted with fervour and persistence. Chaotic, lively and at many times invasive, the sights, sounds, smells, tastes and touches of all things that will surround will also inevitably challenge the way you think, feel and act. 

Next stop on the Magical Mystery Tour - MARRAKECH
Barcelona El Prat airport - Spain

Riad Arabo-Andolouse- Marrakech Medina - Morocco


My first few days in Marrakech happened 9 years prior to this trip. Within the first 25 minutes of arriving in the city I had my mobile phone stolen and paid for the privilege, was pounded by 50 degree heat, was preyed upon by pickpockets and was hassled relentlessly in the main square, Djemma El Fna. It was only on my last day that the turn happened, the point in time where the madness, the characters, the oddities and frenzy of the city settled sufficiently for me to appreciate Marrakech for its point of difference and how special it truly was.

I returned to Marrakech 2 years after the initial visit, far wiser. I was more alert, aware of the environment and experienced enough to know how to negate the annoyances around the edges that can drive some people to turning their backs on such a magnetic place. 

This time, now on my 3rd visit, I was comfortable with the situation. I was far more pragmatic in my approach and thus was able to offer Inga my advice on how to navigate the myriad of events that we would inevitably be thrust into.

Marrakech Medina - Morocco

The Red City (or Pink City) of Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

The gorgeous outdoor patio of La Comptoir Darna - Marrakech - Morocco


The city has so many different facets to it. Mystical, moody, magnetic, alluring, chaotic, crazy. It's a city whose frenzied approach to all things goes directly against the far more measured approach of Europeans. Nothing typifies this more when you're attempting to haggle in souk and the process finishes without a sale. There's always an initial outburst from the sales person (always a man, so I'll say salesman), where they seem on the verge of telling you where to shove your dirhams. Their ferocious haggling techniques, ability to coerce and sell is legendary but beaten only by their short fuses. Still, walk away for a few minutes and come back to same person and all will be forgotten. There's a certain nonsensical allure to that.

La Foundouk - Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco


For me the Medina turns magical in the evening. Navigating the labyrinth of its back alleys with the assistance of extremely dim, yellow hued lamps, only adds to its sense of mystery. I mean that's the cool thing about being in a place you don't know, that feeling of excitement and anxiety that is so far removed from the mundane and routine at home. That part of travel, to me, is one of the most engaging. So when it comes to understanding the puzzle of Marrakech, all you can really say is that it's enigmatic. Bewildering, secret, and bold & brash. All elements are going to envelope you in one way or another.

We stayed for a total of six days in Marrackech, although admittedly 2 of those days we spent in the Moroccan Sahara near Merzouga and another day fully in the Atlas Mountains.

Our itinerary in Marrakech was full, and intentionally so. This is the type of place where the best you can do it keep up with it.

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco

Quad biking outside of Marrakech - Morocco


Quad biking outside of Marrakech - Morocco

Djemma El Fna at night - the buzz is quite something - Marrakech - Morocco

Djemma El Fna - Marrakech - Morocco



Of course spent a bit of time walking through the souks, which as many times as I've been there always appear to be endless. I don't think I've ever walked through and identified the other side,  which beckons the question of whether there really is an 'end' to the trade and commerce, or if perhaps its a portal to another dimension. You really can't take anything for granted in Marrakech because all is possible in the city. With all its strands of commerce and trade and the way the population has shaped the nature of its souks, its way of life is typified in the manner in which it does things right here. The medina surrounds this central spot, therefore this is the true epicentre of life in this Red City.

Perhaps its beyond my capacity to mention all aspects of Marrakech in one entry, so let me state some of the highlights below.

Quad biking outside of Marrakech - Morocco


Taking a rest from quad biking, mint tea, bread & honey - just the ticket, or tonic.




Djemma El Fna during the day - Marrakech - Morocco

Our guide to La Foundouk - Marrakech - Morocco


Marrakech - Morocco

Marrakech - Morocco


Dinner at Le Fondouk - for me, getting to Le Fondouk is the highlight of this experience. Hidden in the back alleys of the medina is a wonderful restaurant but getting there on your own would only be for the intrepid. When you do arrive a guide takes you with the aid of a lantern through the backstreets to the restaurant itself. For ambience & atmosphere this place is an absolute must.

Evening food tour - Absolutely fantastic. We took a guided tour through the souk and tried delicacies that we may not have considered on our own. Goats head (I ate the eye ball, which was in fact delicious), snails, specific food stalls in Djemma El Fna. All the food was tasty, delicious and probably would not have made it onto our radar without the necessary guidance.

Quad Bike tour - Half day quad bike tour outside of Marrakech. An exhilarating experience cruising through the parched countryside and into the foot hills surrounding the city

Drinks at Comptoir Darna - sitting out on the patio at Comptoir Darna, having sheesha and a few drinks is just a magical experience. Moody & atmospheric, just like Marrakech itself.

Dinner at La Mamounia - Set on a formal royal estate from the 12th century, this hotel is stunning and having dinner outside in their gardens just a real pleasure