Machu Picchu (Peru)
15 May 2015
Machu Picchu was the capital to which the Incas escaped when Pizarro came rolling into their world during the year of 1532. Over time it become the ' Lost City of the Incas' as it only became known to us Westerners after Hiram Bingham received a few insightful directions from local farmers and stumbled across a site that had been retreating into the jungle for the better part of 400 years.
The 'Old Mountain' sits high in the Andes mountains, occupying a magnificent perch above the Urabamba valley. With the fall of the Incan empire this city (or estate) of magnificence covered itself in a magic cloak and hid in plain sight for some time until it was pulled out of the trenches.
To steal a line from the Lonely Planet guide, '...It's the most famous archaeological site on the continent, a must for all visitors to Peru. Like the Mona Lisa or the pyramids, it has been seared into our consciousness, though nothing can diminish the thrill of being here'. It's the reason that relatively lazy tourists will wake up at 3am in the morning and prepare themselves to watch the sun rise over this awe inspiring site. There's an inherent sense of wonder, reverence, incredulity. For a lot of people its a once in a lifetime experience and the pinnacle of their journey, not just to Peru or South America, but indeed anywhere.
In the same fashion both Inga and I were raised by our intrusive alarms at around 3am, giving us enough time to get ready, obtain our entry tickets and walk the 15-20 mins out of town to the park entrance. Walking along in pitch black we were assisted by the more prepared gringos who has brought flash lights or head lamps for the morning journey. As these beams of light bounced on the road both in front and behind us, we managed to be guiding relatively safely to the park entrance, where a relatively long queue had already formed prior to opening.
This immediate group was formed by either the most energetic, the most frugal or the most naïve. Generally it was for those that didn't want to put the either the $12USD one way or $24 USD return fare to the entrance gates of Machu Picchu. For me, I had not choice. I had a Latvian with me that was extremely energetic, frugal, a touch naïve and also looking for an opportunity to encompass defacto exercise into their sightseeing. This translated into a relatively fast paced and taxing climb from park entrance to gate entrance. A solid 50min stair climb at somewhere above 2000mtrs - no expresso needed this morning, this was more than enough of a wake up call. Never the less our ascent was impressive. Not impressive enough to have beaten the hoards that had taken the minivan option to get up, which essentially was our goal too, but impressive enough to have made it past most of the 4:30am hikers.
The gates to Machu Picchu open at 6:00am. From there it's a free-for-all.
Tourists swarm. Unknowingly, unwittingly, unfathomably. Everyone aims to get the 'sunrise' photo, perhaps without knowing what 'that' photo should actually look like or where the prime vantage point for 'that' photo is.
Inga & I were of the same elk. Unclear and muddled. We somehow found a spot that provided a well recognised view and stood long enough for the clouds to clear enough to capture something impressive.
...and let me say, Machu Picchu is impressive. It's all sorts of majestic, ethereal & breath taking.
I've seen a lot of impressive places in my time and can say that Machu Picchu only ranks behind Angkor Wat in terms of impact and magnitude. The setting and the associated endeavour for humans of that time to have achieved what they had on this site is prodigious.
Inga and I spent a few hours walking around the site. Absorbing, taking photos, discovering. We then attempted to make our way to the start of the hike of Machu Picchu mountain, which somehow we bypassed and instead made the ascent to the Sun Gate. Impressive in its own right and a view that provides a sense of scale, but, not it was not the hike that we expected, and not the permit that we paid for. We eventually found the entrance to 'Montana'...and here's where my life took a serious turn.
The climb to the top of Machu Picchu mountain is recognised as being challenging. A steady 2.5hr-3hr round trip that when taken at a 'steady pace' will leave you relatively fatigued and craving a soak plus a cold beverage of your choice. There are also closing times for entrance to the trail - allowing for people to get safely up and off the top of the mountain by 2pm. Inga & I had arrived at the trail head at around 11:20am.
We attempted to sign-in for the walk at that time but the guard of all things 'montona' related was going by the book - 'No start times post 11:00am' - we argued of course, we advised that our levels of fitness were very good and that we'd be up and down before most of the people with a 20 min lead on us. This 'discussion' continued for sometime. Indeed I had given up on the idea and was walking away from the trail whilst Inga continued the barrage of assurances that 'we' could do this, and do it within the allowed time.
By around 11:35am the guard was beaten into submission and we were given the green light. The gates to hell were thus made open.
Now when Inga and I hike we never cruise leisurely, we treat hikes, especially those that rise in elevation, like workouts. This hike was basically a straight climb of 621mtrs landing at the final summit of 3051mtrs. Of course when we launched we also had a point to proof, we attacked it like a damn Crossfit session.
It was PUNISHING!!!!!
The backpack that I had on probably had 5-7kg in but it felt as though I was carrying 20kgs. We stormed those stairs like a 2 man battalion on a mission to oblivion. Coming on the back of the 50 min walk in the morning this 1hr 10 stair climb brutalised me. Inga being the little mountain goat that she is skipped away in the last 10-15 mins of the climb and I was left to deal with my exhaustion, stubbornness and jelly legs for the last push.
I have NEVER, EVER, felt that PUNISHED by any form of physical activity before. By the time I made it to metre 3051 my legs had a mind of their own, my shirt was soaked and I needed to be propped up by the 'Machu Picchu Mountain' sign. I was quite literally WRECKED. It's a feeling that I'd never encountered before or since. The view to Machu Picchu was only a secondary concern at this point - the permanent earthquake below my hips was the main thing I needed to contend with.
We were only at the summit for what felt like 15 mins before being told that we needed to make our way down, which we did.
Somewhere around 1:30pm we returned to the gatehouse and encountered the 'Gate-master'. Somewhat smugly we showed her the photos of us at the summit and it was with absolute pleasure that her reactions of disbelief supported what we already knew. We were both STUBBORN & AWESOME in equal parts!
For the rest of the afternoon we made our way through the labyrinth of alleyways, structures and amazing masonry. Inca architecture is a wonder in its own right and the manner by which they managed to design and incorporate the architecture so as to merge ever so seamlessly into their environment is a testament to their ingenuity and genius.
Machu Picchu is a marvel - and forever will remain one of the highlights of this journey.
The 'Old Mountain' sits high in the Andes mountains, occupying a magnificent perch above the Urabamba valley. With the fall of the Incan empire this city (or estate) of magnificence covered itself in a magic cloak and hid in plain sight for some time until it was pulled out of the trenches.
To steal a line from the Lonely Planet guide, '...It's the most famous archaeological site on the continent, a must for all visitors to Peru. Like the Mona Lisa or the pyramids, it has been seared into our consciousness, though nothing can diminish the thrill of being here'. It's the reason that relatively lazy tourists will wake up at 3am in the morning and prepare themselves to watch the sun rise over this awe inspiring site. There's an inherent sense of wonder, reverence, incredulity. For a lot of people its a once in a lifetime experience and the pinnacle of their journey, not just to Peru or South America, but indeed anywhere.
Machu Picchu - Peru
In the same fashion both Inga and I were raised by our intrusive alarms at around 3am, giving us enough time to get ready, obtain our entry tickets and walk the 15-20 mins out of town to the park entrance. Walking along in pitch black we were assisted by the more prepared gringos who has brought flash lights or head lamps for the morning journey. As these beams of light bounced on the road both in front and behind us, we managed to be guiding relatively safely to the park entrance, where a relatively long queue had already formed prior to opening.
This immediate group was formed by either the most energetic, the most frugal or the most naïve. Generally it was for those that didn't want to put the either the $12USD one way or $24 USD return fare to the entrance gates of Machu Picchu. For me, I had not choice. I had a Latvian with me that was extremely energetic, frugal, a touch naïve and also looking for an opportunity to encompass defacto exercise into their sightseeing. This translated into a relatively fast paced and taxing climb from park entrance to gate entrance. A solid 50min stair climb at somewhere above 2000mtrs - no expresso needed this morning, this was more than enough of a wake up call. Never the less our ascent was impressive. Not impressive enough to have beaten the hoards that had taken the minivan option to get up, which essentially was our goal too, but impressive enough to have made it past most of the 4:30am hikers.
The gates to Machu Picchu open at 6:00am. From there it's a free-for-all.
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
Tourists swarm. Unknowingly, unwittingly, unfathomably. Everyone aims to get the 'sunrise' photo, perhaps without knowing what 'that' photo should actually look like or where the prime vantage point for 'that' photo is.
Inga & I were of the same elk. Unclear and muddled. We somehow found a spot that provided a well recognised view and stood long enough for the clouds to clear enough to capture something impressive.
...and let me say, Machu Picchu is impressive. It's all sorts of majestic, ethereal & breath taking.
I've seen a lot of impressive places in my time and can say that Machu Picchu only ranks behind Angkor Wat in terms of impact and magnitude. The setting and the associated endeavour for humans of that time to have achieved what they had on this site is prodigious.
Inga and I spent a few hours walking around the site. Absorbing, taking photos, discovering. We then attempted to make our way to the start of the hike of Machu Picchu mountain, which somehow we bypassed and instead made the ascent to the Sun Gate. Impressive in its own right and a view that provides a sense of scale, but, not it was not the hike that we expected, and not the permit that we paid for. We eventually found the entrance to 'Montana'...and here's where my life took a serious turn.
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
The climb to the top of Machu Picchu mountain is recognised as being challenging. A steady 2.5hr-3hr round trip that when taken at a 'steady pace' will leave you relatively fatigued and craving a soak plus a cold beverage of your choice. There are also closing times for entrance to the trail - allowing for people to get safely up and off the top of the mountain by 2pm. Inga & I had arrived at the trail head at around 11:20am.
We attempted to sign-in for the walk at that time but the guard of all things 'montona' related was going by the book - 'No start times post 11:00am' - we argued of course, we advised that our levels of fitness were very good and that we'd be up and down before most of the people with a 20 min lead on us. This 'discussion' continued for sometime. Indeed I had given up on the idea and was walking away from the trail whilst Inga continued the barrage of assurances that 'we' could do this, and do it within the allowed time.
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
By around 11:35am the guard was beaten into submission and we were given the green light. The gates to hell were thus made open.
Now when Inga and I hike we never cruise leisurely, we treat hikes, especially those that rise in elevation, like workouts. This hike was basically a straight climb of 621mtrs landing at the final summit of 3051mtrs. Of course when we launched we also had a point to proof, we attacked it like a damn Crossfit session.
Montana Machupicchu - holy hell, what a climb
I was wrecked!!!!!
This guy - this was the personification of my inner will - it was GONE
It was PUNISHING!!!!!
The backpack that I had on probably had 5-7kg in but it felt as though I was carrying 20kgs. We stormed those stairs like a 2 man battalion on a mission to oblivion. Coming on the back of the 50 min walk in the morning this 1hr 10 stair climb brutalised me. Inga being the little mountain goat that she is skipped away in the last 10-15 mins of the climb and I was left to deal with my exhaustion, stubbornness and jelly legs for the last push.
I have NEVER, EVER, felt that PUNISHED by any form of physical activity before. By the time I made it to metre 3051 my legs had a mind of their own, my shirt was soaked and I needed to be propped up by the 'Machu Picchu Mountain' sign. I was quite literally WRECKED. It's a feeling that I'd never encountered before or since. The view to Machu Picchu was only a secondary concern at this point - the permanent earthquake below my hips was the main thing I needed to contend with.
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
We were only at the summit for what felt like 15 mins before being told that we needed to make our way down, which we did.
Somewhere around 1:30pm we returned to the gatehouse and encountered the 'Gate-master'. Somewhat smugly we showed her the photos of us at the summit and it was with absolute pleasure that her reactions of disbelief supported what we already knew. We were both STUBBORN & AWESOME in equal parts!
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
Machu Picchu - Peru
For the rest of the afternoon we made our way through the labyrinth of alleyways, structures and amazing masonry. Inca architecture is a wonder in its own right and the manner by which they managed to design and incorporate the architecture so as to merge ever so seamlessly into their environment is a testament to their ingenuity and genius.
Machu Picchu is a marvel - and forever will remain one of the highlights of this journey.
