Rio de Janeiro (Brasil) - Just like being home again

RIO DE JANEIRO (Brasil)
26 July - 31 July 2017

There's a couple of places Inga and I tend to gravitate to when staying in either Buenos Aires or Rio de Janeiro. When in BA its the wonderful Pan Americano that overlooks Avenida 9 de Julio. Of course, there are better hotels, more stylish, more salubrious but the central locations and the views down Avenida 9 unmatched. The Porto Bay in Rio shapes as the perfect accompaniment to the Pan Americano in Buenos Aires. Of course it doesn't pack the same style or have the same glamour name that say a Belmond Copacabana Palace does, but it does take pride of place on the beachfront in Copa and provides for a calm, tranquil atmosphere in a very tranquil locations.

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Our room, located on the 4th floor was spacious, had a great balcony and provided 180 degree views of the the beachfront.  The location for us was absolutely perfect, with direct access to the beachfront and an area set up for guests directly in front of the hotel, its where we spent most of our time during the day, lounging around and soaking in the sun on the complimentary lounges. This was our plan A to each of our days. Our back up to the standard plan A however was to head up to the roof top in the chic, Fasano inspired dark wood, pool area. For me it always felt like a balancing act as to whether we'd choose the beach or head up to the roof top pool bar area. For one, the views from the roof top are spectacular, which when supported by drinks and the occasional free snack thrown in makes the 'Plan B' quite the attractive alternative to the famous beach below.

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Inga &; I have a standard modus whilst in Rio now. Usually it commences when the colours of the sky commence being painted with hues of orange, pink and red and beams of light come streaming through the window. At this stage we are pre-programmed to instigate our strong cup of coffee process. This quickly transitions into gym wear, with Inga  this time around heading up to the gym and me getting out onto the road in order to do the run down to the bottom of Ipanema and back to the hotel. Usually the time we both spent was around 1hr - 1hr 20, but the real treat  was what always followed. We'd always elected to have breakfast included whilst staying at the Porto, which is a buffet affair, but, the absolute gem at the breakfast service was the bottomless champagne offering. This was always our post training treat at the Porto Bay, a workout followed by some good 'ole fashioned champagne - you can't beat that!

The iconic Cervantes - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Cervantes - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Cervantes - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

The iconic Cervantes - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

We set ourselves up with a few things to whilst in Rio but one opportunity that came out of left field was meeting up with the Medcalf's for an afternoon in Urca. Unbeknown to me, a colleague of mine from the Federal Court had his cousin in Rio at the same time we were there, so we set an afternoon to catch up with Amy & Andrew at Bar Urca for late afternoon drinks. For those that don't know, Bar Urca is a classic restaurant that also has a bar/picas type of counter at an iconic location, overlooking Guanabara Bay and the Botofogo area. It's known for its fish, crab cakes, bacalao croquettes and drinks. Of course for Inga and I drinks in Rio is equivalent to for a call to have more caipirinhas, who were we to say no to an invite like that?

Bar Urca - Urca - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Bar Urca - Urca - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

It was a pretty cool afternoon, just hanging out on the bay, chatting and watching the sun go down. Later on we headed to another Copacabana icon, Cervantes, a place that has become famous for its insanely generous sandwiches which is often served with a slice of pineapple, an option that both Inga and I usually ditch.

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

I think the highlight of our stay on Rio this occasion was our afternoon of paragliding to the beach of Sao Conrado from the launch pad up in the hills named Rampa de Pedra Bonita. This is something that I had planned in advance, prior to arriving in Rio. 

One of the days we had available to do the paraglide was cancelled due to inclement weather, but the day we got the 'all clear' was absolutely perfect. A gorgeous bluebird day with the right amount of lift that allowed us to stay a loft for the greater part of half an hour.

Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

This was another one of those activities where I tend to get excited early on in the piece and then get more nervous and anxious about the event as it approaches. Admittedly it wasn't so bad as the Durban Swing, which would build up the courage to do in December, but, I do recall standing on the take off ramp and vaguely being able to listen to the instructions prior to launch. All I could think of whilst standing there  is that at the edge of the ramp there was a bit of a void, a place where the world just dropped away, so now all my trust  was going into the skills of a Brazilian 'pilot' that could only really speak to me with hand signals as his capacity for English was equivalent to my grasp of Portuguese.

The instructions for launch were simply this, run in tandem with your pilot towards the edge and as it lifts off do nothing else. OK Joao Pinto, this one is all on you, you're responsible for me completely.

Rampa de Pedra Bonita - Sao Conrado - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Rampa de Pedra Bonita - Sao Conrado - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Rampa de Pedra Bonita - Sao Conrado - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Rampa de Pedra Bonita - Sao Conrado - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

In the motion of actually launching there was about a second of fear where I doubted the whole process. My moment of fear didn't give any credit to any of the previous launches or the smiling faces that I saw landing safely on the beach earlier, I felt certain that it was all going to unravel, but magically and with such a minimal amount of fuss, my feet simply lifted off the ground and we were away. An effortless motion, like simply being plucked by our collars and suspended in the atmosphere. It an entirely different feeling to the one that I was anticipated. The glide was smooth, un-rushed and silent as the pilot gained height on the up-drafts from the mountains. As we circled gaining altitude the world beneath our feet fell away and our perspective widened to encompass mountains of Pedra de Gavea to our right, the beautifully pronounced with sand beach of Sao Conrado in front, and then to our left Ipanema and further on Copacabana.

Sao Conrado - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Ipanema - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Ipanema - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

It was an exhilarating experience, floating down from the mountains so serenely. The perspective and views that we had were second to none, and as we got closer to the beach we actually did a couple of turns about 30-40mts above the hotels and apartment blocks that lined the promenade, seeing people look up and wave as we hovered above their heads. The experience was entirely pleasurable and one that I'd be more than happy to do again in another part of the world.

Rio never seems to disappoint us. Of course we understand that it has its dangers but I think that if you're aware and don't place yourself in a situation of vulnerability then you can manage to mitigate a lot of the risk. Usually its an element of stupidity or momentary opportunism that will make you a target of crime. In our travels thus far Inga and I have not had any issue at all. Of course we've been taken advantage of in small ways, specifically in terms of operational scams where being a tourist puts you at a distinct disadvantage, but mostly we've been free to do as we please and have found that people are generally very helpful. That's the way we've always found Rio to be and hope that it will welcome us in the very same way when return, which I'm sure will be sometime soon.

Rio de Janeiro (BRASIL) - Carioca landscapes between the mountain and the sea

Rio de Janeiro (Brasil)
11 JUNE - 19 JUNE 2015
26 JUNE - 01 JULY 2015

The Portuguese first cruised into Guanabara Bay on the 1st of January, 1502. What a New Year's Day that must have been. Rolling over the waves of the Atlantic, the beams of sunlight hitting the seamen through their portholes, swimming in their own seas of semi-consciousness, green wine mixing with copious amounts of port, it was no wonder that when they made the turn into the bay even the best and brightest called it a river. In fact, Rio de Janeiro should have been known as Baia de Janeiro - but hell, what's in a name, a rose by any other name would smell as sweet, 'apparently'.

Dramatic mountains of emerald green rising directly from the sea and the molding of the urban landscape around those immovable features makes Rio a visually stunning city. Of course, like many places around the world, be they cultural, historic or geographical, the part of the city that encompasses the Tijuaca mountains, to Guanabara Bay, down to the coastline that includes Copacabana, Ipanema, and all the other great beaches heading south, are UNESCO Heritage listed. I get the feeling these days that UNESCO Heritage listing is a bit of laugh, apparently 'Vienesse coffee culture' is also on a 'list'....BUT...with that said, the outstanding universal value contributed by the Carioca landscapes between the mountain and the sea are undeniable.

Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

View from Corcovado - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Cristo Redentor - Corcovado - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Cristo Redentor - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Some cities have a power, an allure, a vibrancy. If they were people you would call them charismatic. Places of charm and energy (New York), romance and beauty (Paris), seductive vivacity (Buenos Aires), and then within that group, but also standing aside, you have Rio. This place is special in its own right.  Rio takes hold of you immediately and as you move eastwards from the airport to the coastline and as you do the small 'dot' of Christo on top of Corcovado draws you into its arms. You see the powerful conical shapes of Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf), Urca, Caro de Cao and of course the famous mountain top of Corcovado. All those iconic images come into focus and you can't help but be drawn into its powerful allure.

Nestled between the mountains and the sea the urban landscape bends and is warped by the immovable objects in its way. The beauty of the city is undeniable and this, along with the more than acceptable weather, formulates the lifestyle and temperament of the people.

To be part of this environment even for a week changes your whole mindset, even for the shortest period of time. Inga and I occupied a small apartment on a street named Rua Djalma Ulrich. Located a block back from Avenida Atlantico and therefore one block back from Copacabana beach, it was the perfect location for us, beach, sand, sun, surf. It's a hell of a lifestyle to throw yourself into.

 Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Pao de Acucar - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Copacabana beach from the Porto Bay - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

For me personally, there's no argument to be made between Copacabana and Ipanema -  its the former that wins hands down. Of course, Ipanema is beautiful in its own right, the sunsets there are fantastic, but its just not Copacabana. What the beaches do have, and what you get pulled into, is the beach life culture. All activity revolves around what occurs on the sand, or just off it. From early morning, pre-dawn, the early morning fitness freaks are already making their way up and down the running paths of Copacabana and Ipanema. As the morning lengthens and the rays start to peak over the mountains of Pao de Acucar, the mix of runners, cyclists, walkers and alike morph into a continuum of  mobile fitness obsessed ornaments. Of course there are shapes, sizes and oddities but the fact that you live most of your life half naked here means that you need to also do as much as you can to take care of yourself - that part is obvious.

The beach itself is a hive of activity during the day.  Those that occupy the sand attract those that are trying to make a quick dollar by selling absolutely everything and anything, from hammocks to fried cheese, to sunglasses, to passionfruit caipirinhas. Those that sell are relentless in their pursuit of acquiring your Reals, and gradually, one by one, you get broken down into parting with them. For us it was the mobile caipirinha vendor that had us reaching for our wallets. And the product - WHOA - literally rocket full. At the best of times a caipirinha is cachaca mixed with lime juice, ice and brown sugar. The way that the guys on the beach made it was something altogether different. Within two drinks you were transported to an alternate universe where Barry Manilows 'Copacabana' was on endless play and where Borat's mankini all of a sudden seemed to be kind of 'legit'.

Rio de Janeiro from the air - Ipanema

Ipanema - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

The entrance to Guanabara Bay - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Ipanema - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Of course, Rio isn't just about the beaches, there's a lot of other mind blowingly stunning places that need to be experienced in this part of the world. It's a virtual cornucopia of stunning vistas. First there's the most famous 'hill' within the most famous status of the big J-man in all of the world.  Cristo Redentor is a 30mtr high cultural icon. Not just of Rio de Janeiro but of Brazil. As recognisable as the Eiffel Tower or the Opera House,  its pride of place on Corcovado overlooking the city, arms outstretched, is a treasure for humanity. That is not an overstatement. Unsurprisingly included within the list of the New7Wonders of the World, this overwhelming symbol of Christianity occupies a position that is dramatic, wonderful and special on its own right. Standing at the base of Christo the city of Rio unfurls itself before you. From the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema, to Lagoa de Freitas, to Humaita, Botofoga, out to Sugarloaf and then Guanabara Bay, on a sunny day the views here are priceless .

Cristo Redentor

Cristo Redentor - Corcovado - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

 The view from Sugarloaf mountain - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

The view down the beaches to Copacabana and Ipanema from Sugaloaf

Cristo Redentor

View of Rio from the air

In much the same manner, the oddities of Pao de Acucar are an incredible drawcard. Rising nearly 400mtrs directly out of the Atlantic ocean, these granite and quartz mountains provide the perfect support cast to a vista to a scene that already has a plethora of riches. The peak is accessible by a glass window cable car, which once again, as you'll come to expect in Rio, provide such gorgeous scenery that its hard to absorb everything at once. Its easy to spend a few hours at the top of Sugarloaf, looking down the beaches, across to the mountains and out to the bay.  You also grasp an idea of the views that domestic travelers have when arriving in Rio. Most flights swooping low over the mountains, dropping in over the bay in front of Botofogo, turning sharply by Sugarloaf and then landing on the runway that juts out into Guanbara Bay - its a hell of an introduction.

Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Escadaria Selaron - Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Escadaria Selaron - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Escadaria Selaron - Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Rio literally has an embarrassment of riches. We spent many days on the beach or at the rooftop bar/pool the Porto Bay Hotel, which to me, has one of the greatest views over Copacabana. At night it was places like Lapa, or visiting the Esacadaria Selaron, or heading to one of the many churrascarias (like Rio's or Mario's), or in fact heading to an outstanding restaurant like Aprazivel in Santa Theresa.

 Lapa - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

 Ipanema - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

 View to Ipanema from Pedro de Aproador - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Sunrise on Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Sunrise on Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

It's easy to fall for Rio, it is a beauty, but also, it's the way of life that captures you also. If you don't watch out then you may find yourself spending a lot of time here, which isn't going to be a bad thing.