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Showing posts with label San Telmo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label San Telmo. Show all posts

Thursday, November 17, 2016

Buenos Aires (Argentina) - The Proposal - Part (I)



Buenos Aires (Argentina)

The ‘Proposal’ – Part I – a place to call my own
17 NOVEMBER – 25 NOVEMBER 2016

Argentina and Buenos Aires has left an indelible mark upon me. No other place in the world, other than the city I grew up in (Sydney), and the city that I associate with my family, and where I lived for a few years (Belgrade), has allowed me to feel as at home, feel as comfortable and be in my place as Buenos Aires. Ever since I fell for this city back in 2010 all I ever wanted to do was to carve out a piece it and have it for my very own. Somehow  that opportunity had now arrived. This was now my time.


First stop Rio de Janeiro - Brasil - just a transit port this time

This is exactly the feeling you have after 14 hours in the air
Rio Gallegos Airport - Brasil


Sometimes when your stars start to align or when your plan starts to come together, you begin to see reasoning behind how the pieces of the puzzle actually managed to fit. You see what was once disparate reasoning, which never truly made sense, all of a sudden form that needed single view, that picture of complete clarity.

I’d been within Inga for 18 months at this point and had known for quite some time that I wanted to ask her to marry me. Now, as any man will tell you when they’re faced with the various facets of this scenario, your mindset immediately goes into planning mode, Where will I ask? How will I ask? What sort of ring would she like? ...there are in fact endless questions to which answers need to be found.

In the weeks where these questions formed and started to turn over in my mind there was a point in time where most of those unknowns became clear. My first requirement was that I needed to set the premise, or the proposition to Inga about the location. This step I’ll call laying the foundation. There had to be a logical reasoning for wanting to head to the deep south other than the notion of just wanting to go for the sake of it. That in itself would bring up more questions that I wanted to answer in a situation where I needed to be as clandestine as possible.


San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Cafe con leche - Plaza Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Plaza Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Plaza Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Plaza Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Inga of course knew that I'd always had a goal of buying a place in Buenos Aires. The time for simply wanting and forlornly looking through real estate advertisements was now over. So what better way to get serious and make the idea a reality than being on the ground in your destination city, to get a look and feel of a place and particular location in the city that we're both very fond of. Of course it was obvious in the end and my reasoning to her made it obvious, we just had to go to Buenos Aires...of course we had to go to Buenos Aires...in order to propose and buy an apartment – wrapping it ALL up into one unforgettable memory. Now that would be something that just couldn't be beaten.

In my planning therefore I started to consider what I’d like to call, the sweetener. What could I do to elevate the entire experience into something even more unforgettable? To me, in order to heighten an experience you need to be able to share it. It gives the experience a different perspective, energy and degree of excitement. So, I threw out the option to Inga. Why not ask her brother Davis to come down to Buenos Aires with us? We could show him around the city that we love, have him experience something totally different to Europe and of course get his feedback on our potential apartment purchase.

….so the plan was activated and put into action – on the 17th of November, 2016 it was due to commence

Landing in Buenos Aires on 17 November 2016  made it my 7th time in this wonderful city since  my first time in 2010 .Not bad for a Sydney boy with absolutely no affiliation to the country other than his love of meat, Malbec, Messi and football.

That feeling I have when driving from the airport in Ezeiza is always the same. Excitement, energy, anticipation, only that this occasion it felt like an arrival on steroids. Overwhemling anticipation that would lead to a proposal, potentially an apartment purchase and also Inga’s brother joining us for the whole adventure, well, this was going to be epic.

Typically Inga and I find ourselves hiding out in the barrio of San Telmo when we stay in Buenos Aires. This is the oldest barrio in the city, the most atmospheric and the one that has the most character. It’s colonial buildings, cobble stoned streets, antique shops, parrillas, tango parlours and cafés all combine to make this part of the city truly special, but also, Inga and I have a lot of great memories that have been banked away from occupying this corner of the world at various times.


San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

La Brigada Parrilla - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Cafe Tortoni - Avenida de Mayo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Walking in San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Walking into Plaza Dorrego Bar one morning we were greeted by the smiling face of a waiter that we’d gotten chatting with on previous occasions. Plaza Dorrego Bar is an old school café across Avenida Defensa from Plaza Dorrego itself. The waiters are all male and have the standard black tie, black vested uniform that makes you think of a bygone era – a classic, evocative, old school space with traditional Argentine style chequered floors, a weathered wooden bar and wooden tables. It has that old musty smell that just melds perfectly with this section of the city, and I have to say, is a favourite morning spot for me in San Telmo. My order is always the same, a cafe con leche y tres medias lunas.  Our waiter already knew, it was saying my order to me at the same time that I was.

Davis flew into Buenos Aires the next day. His arrival added a totally new dimension to our time here. It almost felt like we were showing him around our home town. I felt the same way I’d feel if I was guiding someone around Sydney, of course, you want them to like your town and you feel its your job to show it off to the best of your ability…which is what we absolutely did, and in spades.

From the day that he joined us on Defensa with the traditional Sunday afternoon markets, we guided him to all of the spots that were both known and loved by us. Starting in San Telmo, post market day, we showed him the Che mural on Pasaje San Lorenzo, walked around the old antique stores and cobble stoned streets, ending up at the famous Parrilla La Brigada in the evening for a round of Malbec and steak, their famous moniker being that their steak is so soft ‘that you can cut it with a spoon’.


Cafe Tortoni - Avenida de Mayo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Cafe Tortoni - Avenida de Mayo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

El Ateneo Grand Splendid - Avenida Santa Fe - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Bar El Federal - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Bar El Federal - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Avenida President Roque Saenz Pena - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Buenos Aires - Argentina

Of course, we also spent some time down in the colourful barrio of La Boca. An historic and proud barrio of Buenos Aires located next to the city’s port where the Riacheulo River meets the Rio de la Plata. This area has always been known as poor part of town. In some ways bleak, very industrial and rough, the barrio can be intimidating if you find yourself strolling into its unsafe areas. Tourists are constantly warned not to stray off the well trodden paths for the sake of getting robbed. The main area of Calle Caminito however is rather kitschy and largely touristic. Filled with cafes and open air tango shows it’s the typical tourist trap that you'll find anywhere in the world. Of course you can get off the beaten track but perhaps not best down in a solo manner. Still, for what it is, it’s worth showing, even from an historical aspect of the city and in terms of photography. The colours and the theatre just make this area stand out in photos.


Retiro - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Retiro - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Four Seasons Hotel - Calle Posadas - Buenos Aires - Argentina

La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Calle San Lorenzo - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Feria in San Telmo - Defensa - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Feria de San Telmo - Avenida Defensa - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Feria de San Telmo - Avenida Defensa - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina



La Poesia - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Our path through Buenos Aires on this occasion was largely dictated by my apartment hunting. I’d orchestrated my search was with the assistance of a well known BA consultant, Michael Koh, who’d put me in touch with an agent he trusted and had worked with previously. I found Michael online after a fair amount of research. Essentially, in his role as a consultant, he assists foreigners like me, who are interested in real estate investments either in Buenos Aires or Argentina, to go through the ‘discovery’ and contract process. A process, which without prior knowledge, can be quite complex and being Argentina, inevitably takes many twists and turns. He was, without question, the consummate professional and made himself available to answer my queries at all times. Absolutely phenomenal guy I have to say.


La Boca - Buenos Aires - Argentina

La Boca - Buenos Aires - Argentina

La Boca - Buenos Aires - Argentina

La Boca - Buenos Aires - Argentina

La Boca - Buenos Aires - Argentina


La Boca - Buenos Aires - Argentina

La Boca - Buenos Aires - Argentina

La Boca - Buenos Aries - Argentina

La Boca - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Michael’s recommendation of looking outside of my favourite barrio, San Telmo, therefore extended our search out to Palermo, Palermo Viejo and Palermo Soho. These areas are typically known as the trendiest parts of the town, so coupled with real estate viewing we took to showing Davis parts of the town that were within our search zone. So aside from the old staples like Café Tortoni and Recoleta cemetery, we also took in a dinner at Don Julio in Palermo, which incidentally in 2018 made it to #6 on the list of Best South American restaurants, https://www.theworlds50best.com/latinamerica/en/the-list-2018/Don-Julio.html  currently #55 in the world. 

Another evening we were back in Recoleta and took to seeing the wonderful Fuerza Bruta (Brute Force), a post-modern theatre production that incorporates music, theatre, light shows, water, smoke and a plethora of interactive engagements in a setting that completely surrounds you. As a member of the audience you effectively stand in the middle of the stage as the performance takes place above your head, on the walls, on the front stage, everywhere. It’s so completely immersive, mind blowing in its action and free flowing, it pushes and pulls you in all directions. I’ve only ever seen the show in Buenos Aires, and even though it can now be seen in cities around the world, the concept and production originated in this city.


Cemetario de Recoleta - Buenos Aires - Argentina

 Buenos Aires - Argentina

Cemetario de Recoleta - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Don Julio - Palermo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Don Julio - Palermo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Cafe Tortoni....this guy....'Siiiiiiiii'

Cafe Tortoni - Avenida de Mayo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Of course the hits just kept coming in terms of experience as post Fuerza Bruta we hit the Hard Rock, the Four Seasons for drinks and then went to Floreria Atlantico, another Buenos Aires highlight, ranked #14 in a list of the World’s Top 50 bars, http://www.worlds50bestbars.com/fifty-best-bars-list-2018/?ist=11, this place is one of those cool, interestingly hidden places, where you could easily walk by on first passing. From the outside it’s just a florist shop, and indeed during the day that’s all at is, but this late night florist holds the coolest secret. Through a non-descript door you descend the stairs into a very cool Latin American speakeasy. Admittedly it’s not my favourite bar in Buenos Aires as it gets packed quickly and early here, and really, there’s just better set-ups around, but with that said, the drinks here are on point. The bartenders now what they’re doing and the drinks are special.


Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Buenos Aires (ARGENTINA) - the world saunters by and we tango

Buenos Aires (Argentina)
05 July - 11 July 2016
14 July - 16 July 2016

There's just no fighting true love, is there?

Seductive and cultured, sophisticated yet earthy, eclectic but with a strong identity, it never bores, seldom sleeps and invariably mesmerises its visitors - (no source)

(Absolutely)

Even though you find yourself in a city of nearly 13 million inhabitants, you have a feeling of being at home. It's as if the city opens its arms and says: 'This is me; come explore.'"Sanja Hurem

Sanja Hurem, that's exactly it. When I left Buenos Aires after my first visit I missed it. I missed it in that very real, visceral type of way. I felt loss. Not overtly of course but there was a large part of me that needed to go back and that knew deeply that I would make things happen, I would just the plain course of things in order to throw Buenos Aires squarely in my path.

Inga and I had been in Sydney for a few months. We'd finalised things with my aunts place and were rounding out our stay in Australia which we knew wouldn't be a place that we'd return to for any great length of time in the near future. This period of finalisation also coincided with my birthday and the move out from 90 Seven Hills Road perfectly dovetailed in to a few gorgeous nights at the Shangri-La at Circular Quay, one raucous night at the Shady Pines Saloon and then a flight over the Pacific to my spiritual home. 




My 41st birthday - my, doesn't Inga look impressed ?Shady Pines Saloon - Sydney - Australia 


View from the Shangri-La Hotel - Sydney - Australia


Birthday drinks - Shangri-La Hotel - Sydney - Australia


A good 'ole Curry Tiger - Harry's Cafe de Wheels - Capitol Theatre - Haymarket - Sydney


Buenos Aires volvemos

I love the feel of the barrio of San Telmo. From the yellowish hued light dispersed from the tall, noble street lamps and how the light the cobble stone streets to the carnivorous frenzy of the neighbourhood parillas. I can walk through here with absolute  comfort & ease, somehow everything feels in place and I feel like my best self in the midst of it.


San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina



Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

True love aside this trip to Buenos Aires initially felt a little bit off. Occupying an apartment in the heart of San Telmo is usually what I, and now we, do, but this time a few things skewed our demeanour and made various periods of time challenging. Case in point. The first 2-3 days were off kilter in the sense that we found ourselves waking up in the late afternoon/early evening, having totally missed the day. To me it felt like going to watch a movie that you had built up so much anticipation for only to fall asleep and wake up to watch the credits rolling. Coupled with our jet lag was what seemed to be a sanitation strike that had left the streets to pile up with bags of rubbish. Now strike are all too common in Argentina, it's there way of doing things but this experience somehow tainted the pedestal on which I placed this city. Never fear though, Buenos Aires redeemed itself in spades latter on that same year, but more of that....well, latter.


La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Still, the tried and true of San Telmo immediately took pride of place on our 'to do' list. A midnight dinner at the much loved institution of La Brigada where cutting your steak with a spoon to prove its tenderness is obligatory. Then of course we needed to dine at Don Ernesto, a typical San Telmo parilla that isn't stunning, in some ways is very plain but has that undefinable quality that traps you in its web. It's a parilla that also give you the opportunity to leave your calling card on premises, which we've done in times gone by and which we did yet again on this occasion. 


Plaza Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Microcentro - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina



Cafe Tortoni's - Avenida de Mayo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Bar Seddon - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Other favourites also followed, Plaza Dorrego Bar, with the scuffed black and white floored tiles, weathered and beaten furniture and our favourite blacked tied/black vested waiter, Carlos. Here we were again and his big smile and acknowledgement of our return after a few years just felt particularly comforting. We also made our usual stop for a Negroni and the more than well known Cafe Tortoni on Avenida de Mayo.


Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


There we are - Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Buenos Aires gives you time to reminisce of course but also, there's always the opportunity to create new memories and this time didn't disappoint us at all. One of the highlights for sure was entering the domain of Fuerza Bruta (Brute Force), what Wikipedia calls a postmodern theatre show that originated in Buenos Aires in 2003, created by Diqui James. This performance was like nothing that I've experienced previously. Immersive and interactive, engaging all your senses, it challenges and excites you from start to finish. The area of performance is inhabited by everyone, there isn't that usual linear sense of sitting and viewing in that the show encompasses everyone within its grasp and makes them, the audience a player in the story line. The show has now travelled outside of Buenos Aires to a number of cites and is extremely well known for its unique style of delivery. Undeniably brilliant, we thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience. If you haven't heard about it or come across them then please check it out at this link Fuerza Bruta.


Fuerza Bruta - Recoleta - Buenos Aires


Fuerza Bruta - Recoleta - Buenos Aires


Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina


A couple of other new entrants on the Buenos Aires 'to-do' list were The Man Tour & Rojo Tango at the Faena Universe (hotel). The Man Tour is run by Landing Pad BA and is essentially a guided tour of Buenos Aires that offers 'typical' experience, slanted towards the male perspective, although really, everything on the tour was more than suitable for Inga, except the straight razor shave. The tour including a stop at a well known coffee at Angelito's, a stop at a well known empanada store, a measure up at a hattery where I discovered that my head size was untypically large and a straight razor shave at one of the coolest joints that I'd ever been to. A very old school type of cafe, come bar, come local barrio hangout with an old style barber shop incorporated into the mix, I absolutely loved it. The final stop was at a classic cigar bar. The only mix was right on the money and to finish off with a cigar, a neat drink and a bit of chat about the city just seemed to suit the style o the town down to the ground.



Cafe de los Angelitos - Congreso - Buenos Aires - Argentina



Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Buenos Aires - Argentina


Buenos Aires - Argentina


Buenos Aires - Argentina


This is the time I realised that being nice comes in handy

Rojo Tango is a different entity in itself. Located inside the stylish and impressive Faena Hotel, you're immediately engaged by the decor & atmosphere of the hotel. After an impressive three course meal with bottomless glasses of champagne the show commences and its just as atmosphere and sensual as the hotel. Stylish, sexy, engaging, the show is modern but of course has tango as its beating heart. For Inga I believe this was the real highlight.



Faena Universe - Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Faena Universe - Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Faena Universe - Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Then there were the staples, the things that we had done before and of course had to do again. Like stopping in at some of our favourite bars, Floreria Atlantico, Bar Seddon & Doppleganger, an Sunday afternoon at the markets on Defensa, an evening at the La Ventana tango show and finally, an epic encounter in the semi-final of the Copa Libertadores against Independiente de Valle (Ecquador). 



Copa Libertadores Semi-Final 2016 - Boca vs. Independiente de Valle - La Bombonera - La Boca - Argentina


Copa Libertadores Semi-Final 2016 - Boca vs. Independiente de Valle - La Bombonera - La Boca - Argentina


Copa Libertadores Semi-Final 2016 - Boca vs. Independiente de Valle - La Bombonera - La Boca - Argentina

Now Boca Juniors are my favourite team and their home ground, La Bombonera in Boca has the most raucous & passionate supporters of any place in the world, in my humble opinion. Even on this occasion, despite the incessant drizzle and ever present cold, the stadium just rocked for the whole match. There is nothing like it, nothing close to the experience and the feeling that you can get from being in the crowd and watching Boca play. This was the second time that I experienced a Boca at La Bombonera  and it was super charged. As a football lover or even a support of sports I would without hesitation say that this needs to be on the bucket list. One of the greatest sporting experiences without question.



Outside of La Ventana - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
This is one of many photos I've taken in this mirror over the years


Outside of La Ventana - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Doppelganger Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Denfensa - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Denfensa - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Pan Americano Hotel - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Plaza Dorrego Bar - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Obelisco - Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Our time in Buenos Aires, for me of course, ended much too quickly, as it always seems to do. Every time I leave in just leaves me pining for a longer stay or to find a way where I could somehow live in the city or have an attachment to it. I did have some ideas about that of course but that's something to be discussed in later entries.