Life in a year full of Saturdays

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Buenos Aires (ARGENTINA) - the world saunters by and we tango

Buenos Aires (Argentina)
05 July - 11 July 2016
14 July - 16 July 2016

There's just no fighting true love, is there?

Seductive and cultured, sophisticated yet earthy, eclectic but with a strong identity, it never bores, seldom sleeps and invariably mesmerises its visitors - (no source)

(Absolutely)

Even though you find yourself in a city of nearly 13 million inhabitants, you have a feeling of being at home. It's as if the city opens its arms and says: 'This is me; come explore.'" - Sanja Hurem

Sanja Hurem, that's exactly it. When I left Buenos Aires after my first visit I missed it. I missed it in that very real, visceral type of way. I felt loss. Not overtly of course but there was a large part of me that needed to go back and that knew deeply that I would make things happen, I would just the plain course of things in order to throw Buenos Aires squarely in my path.

Inga and I had been in Sydney for a few months. We'd finalised things with my aunts place and were rounding out our stay in Australia which we knew wouldn't be a place that we'd return to for any great length of time in the near future. This period of finalisation also coincided with my birthday and the move out from 90 Seven Hills Road perfectly dovetailed in to a few gorgeous nights at the Shangri-La at Circular Quay, one raucous night at the Shady Pines Saloon and then a flight over the Pacific to my spiritual home.

My 41st birthday - my, doesn't Inga look impressed ?Shady Pines Saloon - Sydney - Australia

View from the Shangri-La Hotel - Sydney - Australia

Birthday drinks - Shangri-La Hotel - Sydney - Australia

A good 'ole Curry Tiger - Harry's Cafe de Wheels - Capitol Theatre - Haymarket - Sydney

Buenos Aires volvemos

I love the feel of the barrio of San Telmo. From the yellowish hued light dispersed from the tall, noble street lamps and how the light the cobble stone streets to the carnivorous frenzy of the neighbourhood parillas. I can walk through here with absolute comfort & ease, somehow everything feels in place and I feel like my best self in the midst of it.

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

True love aside this trip to Buenos Aires initially felt a little bit off. Occupying an apartment in the heart of San Telmo is usually what I, and now we, do, but this time a few things skewed our demeanour and made various periods of time challenging. Case in point. The first 2-3 days were off kilter in the sense that we found ourselves waking up in the late afternoon/early evening, having totally missed the day. To me it felt like going to watch a movie that you had built up so much anticipation for only to fall asleep and wake up to watch the credits rolling. Coupled with our jet lag was what seemed to be a sanitation strike that had left the streets to pile up with bags of rubbish. Now strike are all too common in Argentina, it's there way of doing things but this experience somehow tainted the pedestal on which I placed this city. Never fear though, Buenos Aires redeemed itself in spades latter on that same year, but more of that....well, latter.

La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Still, the tried and true of San Telmo immediately took pride of place on our 'to do' list. A midnight dinner at the much loved institution of La Brigada where cutting your steak with a spoon to prove its tenderness is obligatory. Then of course we needed to dine at Don Ernesto, a typical San Telmo parilla that isn't stunning, in some ways is very plain but has that undefinable quality that traps you in its web. It's a parilla that also give you the opportunity to leave your calling card on premises, which we've done in times gone by and which we did yet again on this occasion.

Plaza Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Microcentro - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Cafe Tortoni's - Avenida de Mayo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Bar Seddon - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Other favourites also followed, Plaza Dorrego Bar, with the scuffed black and white floored tiles, weathered and beaten furniture and our favourite blacked tied/black vested waiter, Carlos. Here we were again and his big smile and acknowledgement of our return after a few years just felt particularly comforting. We also made our usual stop for a Negroni and the more than well known Cafe Tortoni on Avenida de Mayo.

Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

There we are - Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Buenos Aires gives you time to reminisce of course but also, there's always the opportunity to create new memories and this time didn't disappoint us at all. One of the highlights for sure was entering the domain of Fuerza Bruta (Brute Force), what Wikipedia calls a postmodern theatre show that originated in Buenos Aires in 2003, created by Diqui James. This performance was like nothing that I've experienced previously. Immersive and interactive, engaging all your senses, it challenges and excites you from start to finish. The area of performance is inhabited by everyone, there isn't that usual linear sense of sitting and viewing in that the show encompasses everyone within its grasp and makes them, the audience a player in the story line. The show has now travelled outside of Buenos Aires to a number of cites and is extremely well known for its unique style of delivery. Undeniably brilliant, we thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience. If you haven't heard about it or come across them then please check it out at this link - Fuerza Bruta.

Fuerza Bruta - Recoleta - Buenos Aires

Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina

A couple of other new entrants on the Buenos Aires 'to-do' list were The Man Tour & Rojo Tango at the Faena Universe (hotel). The Man Tour is run by Landing Pad BA and is essentially a guided tour of Buenos Aires that offers 'typical' experience, slanted towards the male perspective, although really, everything on the tour was more than suitable for Inga, except the straight razor shave. The tour including a stop at a well known coffee at Angelito's, a stop at a well known empanada store, a measure up at a hattery where I discovered that my head size was untypically large and a straight razor shave at one of the coolest joints that I'd ever been to. A very old school type of cafe, come bar, come local barrio hangout with an old style barber shop incorporated into the mix, I absolutely loved it. The final stop was at a classic cigar bar. The only mix was right on the money and to finish off with a cigar, a neat drink and a bit of chat about the city just seemed to suit the style o the town down to the ground.

Cafe de los Angelitos - Congreso - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Buenos Aires - Argentina

This is the time I realised that being nice comes in handy

Rojo Tango is a different entity in itself. Located inside the stylish and impressive Faena Hotel, you're immediately engaged by the decor & atmosphere of the hotel. After an impressive three course meal with bottomless glasses of champagne the show commences and its just as atmosphere and sensual as the hotel. Stylish, sexy, engaging, the show is modern but of course has tango as its beating heart. For Inga I believe this was the real highlight.

Faena Universe - Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Then there were the staples, the things that we had done before and of course had to do again. Like stopping in at some of our favourite bars, Floreria Atlantico, Bar Seddon & Doppleganger, an Sunday afternoon at the markets on Defensa, an evening at the La Ventana tango show and finally, an epic encounter in the semi-final of the Copa Libertadores against Independiente de Valle (Ecquador).

Copa Libertadores Semi-Final 2016 - Boca vs. Independiente de Valle - La Bombonera - La Boca - Argentina

Now Boca Juniors are my favourite team and their home ground, La Bombonera in Boca has the most raucous & passionate supporters of any place in the world, in my humble opinion. Even on this occasion, despite the incessant drizzle and ever present cold, the stadium just rocked for the whole match. There is nothing like it, nothing close to the experience and the feeling that you can get from being in the crowd and watching Boca play. This was the second time that I experienced a Boca at La Bombonera and it was super charged. As a football lover or even a support of sports I would without hesitation say that this needs to be on the bucket list. One of the greatest sporting experiences without question.

Outside of La Ventana - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

This is one of many photos I've taken in this mirror over the years

Outside of La Ventana - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Doppelganger Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Denfensa - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Pan Americano Hotel - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Plaza Dorrego Bar - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Obelisco - Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Our time in Buenos Aires, for me of course, ended much too quickly, as it always seems to do. Every time I leave in just leaves me pining for a longer stay or to find a way where I could somehow live in the city or have an attachment to it. I did have some ideas about that of course but that's something to be discussed in later entries.

Monday, March 21, 2016

Budapest (HUNGARY) - Welcome to your brother-in-law

Budapest (Hungary)
21 March - 23 March 2016

I don't if it's just me, whether its just a Henry Elisher thing, but when I meet new people I usually try somewhat to make a good first impression. Call it my modus operandi or just the I roll. So within my realms of the believable universe, I thought that most people would generally feel the same. The intention of this get away to Budapest was to have Inga, myself and my cousin Vladimir meet up with Inga's brother Davis. The thought being that all four of us with spend time in the Hungarian capital, exploring and seeing the sites...that was the intention.

Within two hours of Davis landing however my cousin was already most of the way back to the Serbian border. An impression created...for sure.

The seeds of discontent were planted ever so innocuously , and without malice may I say, several months earlier when the booking of the Budapest accommodation, a beautiful apartment in the centre of the city, was made by Inga. The problem came from the sleeping arrangements that were logistically constructed out of necessity when Inga made a 2 BDR reservation. Little did Inga know the sensitivity of my cousin having to share a room, albeit quite a big room, that had two individual beds. She made the assumption that everybody would be fine with those sleeping arrangements. No so Vladimir - no sir, no way. OK, major issue there, I came with a quick fix and decided to accommodate Vladimir in the closest location to our apartment, a hostel/hotel only a 2-3 minute walk from where we were staying.
Where we encountered the major issue was when we went to investigate the room. It was a single room in a hostel. Basically a decent enough bed, with some furniture and its own bathroom. It was average, unpretentious, and something I thought would resolve the issue of distance through convenience....but that it did not do.

To quote my cousin, in translation, when referring to the room, 'No, it doesn't even come into consideration'. That was it, out he walked, not offering a solution, no saying anything - Henry you deal with it. Mind you, this epitomised most of my families debacles in the years in Serbia, as generally it appeared that I created problems from nowhere, that I was completely oblivious to, that somehow I had inherited responsibility for and that I had to resolve. Now, I hadn't booked the initial accommodation but I did try to resolve the issue when it arose, now here my expectation was that someone take a 'harden the fuck up' approach and just appreciate the situation and deal with sleeping in a smaller room for two nights, I wouldn't consider that to have been at all difficult.

The offending room - Budapest - Hungary

As Vladimir was adamant that the room was not an option, both Davis & I offered to jump in and take the room ourselves, and really, neither one of us would have had a problem doing that, but no, Vladimir was ticked and his solution was going to be for him to drive the 3 hours back to Belgrade that day and then return two days later to pick us up. In the end that solution did was probably the best option for everyone but as a first impression to my future brother-in-law, having that argument play out immediately on arrival and being introduced to a member of my family, well, it made me feel completely uncomfortable and awfully embarrassed. There's something to be said for social graces and being simply considerate of the feelings of people in certain situations. My cousin obviously missed the memo on this one. Call it being Serbian or being a Leo or a combination of both, it's not the attitude that I expected or enjoyed in that moment.

Budapest - Hungary

Outside of parliament - Budapest - Hungary

Budapest - Hungary

Friends for life? Classic brother vs. sister

Budapest - Hungary

So, from a party of four we quickly translated to a party of three, and in many ways that worked in our favour. I say that without prejudice as I know the interests and levels of tolerance that my cousin has differs from the rest of us. With that said, our first afternoon we took it to the streets, walking around the area of parliament and heading up river on the Pest side of the Danube. Again, it was not difficult to see at all why this city is considered as one of the highlights of Europe. The backdrop, the architecture and the way the city presents itself is exquisite.

Budapest - Hungary

For Sale Pub - Budapest - Hungary

Finishing off our walk we decided to stop in for some food at a place Inga & I had been to previously, a place called The For Sale Pub. What you get here is a great atmosphere, interesting surrounds and a cheap menu with great food. Of course we knew exactly what to zero in on. The goulash soup at this place was both delicious, hearty and plentiful. So much so that one order could easily satisfy the cravings of three people, which is exactly what ended up happening.

Deciding to put a in a little after dinner work we took one of the many main trails that headed to the top of Gellert Hegy Hill. Unequivocally the best views of down town Budapest, without question, the vistas left a great impression on us and coupled with a bottle aptly named Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon, the final brush strokes were placed onto an evening that actually supported what had been a very good day, no matter how inauspicious its genesis had been. Of course, a late night in Budapest would never be complete without an additional late night finale drink and even later night kebab, its just what you do.

Gellert Hegy Hill - For Sale Pub - Budapest - Hungary

Not sure what this manoeuvre was meant to be - in fact it was some sort of 'go to' pose that just had us laughing for ages

Our next day started at a fantastic coffee spot called Cafe Frei. This place was just the tonic for an early morning pick me-up. Their menu was something else. Coffees from around the world in all styles, all modes of delivery. For someone that loves diversity in all forms this place was spectacularly on point. The highlight for me was the Nicaraguan Tobacco Coffee - oh hell yeah - with hints of tobacco on the nose and on the palate, this my friends was an EPIC creation, I could not rate this anymore highly than by simply saying 'go to Budapest just for this'.

Cafe Frei - Budapest - Hungary

One of the GREAT coffees - let me introduce use to the Nicaraguan Tobacco Coffee - Cafe Frei - Cafe Frei - Budapest - Hungary

Buzzing from our caffeine hit we needed to roll it back a few notches and decided to partake in an oddly unique cultural Budapest pastime, of going to a spa/thermal bath. It appears that historically this has been a trademark of the city for quite some time, enjoyed as early on as the 2nd century AD by the Romans, who would probably relax their poor tired muscles in between eating and having raucous orgies. Oh, to be a Roman in Budapest huh. We selected one of the original Turkish baths (Rudas) as our place of merriment (for only the bath of course, no orgies on the menu at this stage).

The attraction here are the mineral filled waters of the baths that range in temperature from 60-80 degrees, offset by the ice plunge pools which are enough to kickstart the heart of anyone. In addition to the pools they also had saunas, aromatherapy rooms and other rooms of absolute tranquillity that were so unexpectedly blissful that a 4hr stay just slid by without even a hint of boredom.

Budapest - Hungary

Rudas thermal baths - Budapest - Hungary

As the night started to cast lengthening shadows over what started to become a city full of surprises we headed out to dinner before jumping onto a Danube cruise for a couple of hours. Making our way down the river at night I was full of admiration of the spectacle and lamented, in some small part, the fact that a small way down the river was another city that could not nearly compete with the beauty here. Same river, neighbouring countries but worlds apart in many ways.

Budapest - Hungary

Another discovery of Budapest, and what turned out to be a real highlight for me, was finding a ruin bar. These have been popping up in the city over the last 20 years and have essentially made their way by taking up residence in some of the abandoned buildings of the city. The craft and style which they've adopted to take advantage of each premises has made something completely unique from each bar and fostered a spirit of creation that has become uniquely associated with Budapest. We chose to go to the original ruin bar, Szimpla Kert. Located on Kazinczy Street, its bohemian nature coupled with the unreal prices that underpinned the sometimes chaotic and often eclectic look and feel to the venue. The size and ability to move through areas of variety and find interesting place of both calm and frenzy is what made this one of my favourite bars anywhere. Definitely a must do in Budapest and I'd hit that with a recommendation to go and see as many of the great ones as possible.

Szimpla Kert - Ruin Bar - Budapest - Hungary

We rounded another fabulous night by acquiring ourselves a bottle of wine and heading to the roof top terrace of our apartment. Being in the middle of the city and having fantastic views certainly comes with bonuses.

Rooftop terrace - Budapest - Hungary

Next stop Belgrade

The next day Vladimir met us at around midday. Not to say that he missed out, because either way he wouldn't have enjoyed any of what we did, but hey, from one cousin to another, let me just say, 'you missed out'.

Life in a year full of Saturdays

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Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Buenos Aires (ARGENTINA) - the world saunters by and we tango

Monday, March 21, 2016

Budapest (HUNGARY) - Welcome to your brother-in-law

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A year full of Saturdays