MERZOUGA - ERG CHEBBI (Morocco)
19 October - 20 October 2017
19 October - 20 October 2017
As with most things, ones
something because too popular then there’s always some group that feels
disenfranchised. The tipping point always comes with either the real or
perceived financial rewards that one party received against another. The party
missing out lashes out against their perceived loss.
In Erg Chebbi, on Morocco’s eastern
frontier, there has been a proliferation of desert camps built upon the
overwhelming interest and increase of tourists coming to the area in order to
see the legendary sand dunes and experience the solitude, if only for one or
two nights, of the Saharan desert. As of March 2019 however the Moroccan
military, under the direction of the Moroccan government, went into Erg Chebbi
(just outside of Merzouga) and without notice, started to disband the camps
that were set up in the Erg Chebbi dunes.
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
The pretence for this action of
course came under the heading of environmental
conservation & security and
safety concerns. The real reason, it appears, is that a relatively powerful
group of hoteliers from Merzouga felt as though the camps were ‘dudding’ them
out of potential income as tourists, such as myself, were not electing to stay
in their hotels but rather in the desert camps.
Now these camps, for the most
part, were and currently still are, legitimate business’s, registered in the
correct manner, providing work/income for locals and promoting the tourism
industry throughout Morocco.
The government it appears, had a
different outlook, swayed perhaps by either family or friends that may indeed
be invested in the hotel business in Merzouga.
The outcome, for now, is
unresolved but it doesn’t seem that the camps will be back any time soon.
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Our camp site - Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Our camp site - Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Technically speaking, the sand
dunes of Erg Chebbi are within an area understood to be semi Pre-Saharan steppes and not really part of the Saharan desert,
which actually lies a fair distance south of the area. Which then beckons the
real question, why the hell did we go
there? We thought we were going to the Sahara!!! That’s the way it was
billed! The Sahara! But did we fact check? No? Did I even look at a map to
consider if these statements were correct, no.
For most people the
technicalities associated with geography don’t mean much. Ah, a desert in Morocco is close enough to being in the Sahara….right
BUT…NO, THAT’S BULLSHIT – IT’S NOT
Lets go ahead and say that the
experience of an overnight stay in the desert was probably Sahara like, and hence we made our decision to head out of
Marrakech for a night and take in the look at feel of what a Saharan like desert may be.
It’s a fairly sizeable drive from
Marrakech out to Merzouga, around 560kms and 8-9 hrs of travel. Cutting across
the Atlas Mountains, through Ourzazate and dashing east towards the border the
day felt long and admittedly we slept for some large part, particularly over
the other side of the Atlas.
Arriving in Merzouga we were
ushered into a hotel, along it appeared with a few other groups of tourists
that arrived to do the same style of trip. All of which aligns to what I’ve
read about the disgruntlement of hotel owners who were looking to align with
specific camps in order to provide a type of ‘enhanced service’, i.e., somewhere to get changed, have refreshments
and have showers prior to and after the camp.
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
45 mins after arriving we headed
out to the Erg Chebbi dunes. Dropped off on the edge of the desert we boarded
our vessels of the desert and headed out into the dunes, Lawrence of Arabia style.
Moving slowly and methodically
through the dunes, the further we trekked the more we lost touch with known man
made elements and the further we dived into a totally unfamiliar environment.
Morning - Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
Erg Chebbi dunes - near Merzouga - Morocco
It only took us passing a few
dunes to come to the realisation that these hills formed by wind blown sand
were both enormous, all encompassing and quite beautiful. What hits you more
than anything though is the silence. Other
than the sound of the wind passing through the only other sounds were the
hooves of the camels hitting the sand and the odd pieces of chatter from its
passengers.
The camp itself was situated in a
gully, bounded by high sand dunes on all sides, so it felt sheltered and
protected. The tents themselves were good enough and the beds were comfortable.
Carpets were spread out within the camp site and of course within the tents
themselves, all in all, a comfortable experience and enjoyable.
The only disappointment for the
night came when the promised bonfire and musical accompaniment decided not to
make an appearance, or, decided that they couldn’t be stuffed. Not a huge issue
but it would have been cool to have had that to support our evening. Still,
when you’re out in the desert, its pitch black, the stars wrapping themselves
around your visual universe and the silence pounding like a drum, it’s a hell
of an experience.
The next work it was go back to where you came from. But
prior to boarding our transit train of the desert, we had the opportunity to
climb to the top of one of the main dunes surrounding the camp and take some
photos.
