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Sunday, August 6, 2017

Qasr al Sarab Desert Anantara Resort (United Arab Emirates) - 1001 Arabian nights

QASR AL SARAB DESERT RESORT  by ANANTARA (United Arab Emirates)
06 August - 09 August 2017


This stop I had already marked as my own personal highlight of the region even before we completed our stay in the area. 

My own discovery of the Qasr al Sarab had occurred online some 3 years earlier. I'm not sure if it was a link or an online article that lead me there but my, wasn't I impressed when I got to discovering what it was about. I was so impressed that before my Mum & Dad returned from Europe, on my Dad's final holiday, I had paid for them to spend a couple of nights there. For my dad, I can comfortably say that he went out on a good one.

A three hour drive from Dubai and some 220kms south of down town Abu Dhabi, the Qasr al Sarab Desert resort is located in Abu Dhabi's section of the Empty Quarter, in the Rub' Al Khali Desert, occupying a space on the edge of the mighty Arabian desert, The Rub' Al Khali is one of the largest continuous bodies of sand in the world. Meaning, that if you're going to build anything out there, it better be damn self sufficient, impressive and to be able to cope with the types of temperatures that will have you easily pushing 55+ degrees on a normal day.


Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates


For the hour out of Abu Dhabi the landscape is monotonous, the road is as straight as an arrow and you can imagine how something like this could break you if you were required to do it frequently. Occasional trees punctuate the landscape and the odd, errant camel is an ever present danger, but for the most part you feel as though you're on auto-pilot.

Arriving to Qasr al Sarab is nothing like I've experienced before, and I thank my parents for imparting to me the little hint I needed to actually find the road to the resort. They told me to look out for the petrol station that would come up just before the turn to the resort, which seemed an odd thing to tell me at the time but now I thank them for it as I'm certain I would have driven straight past.


Welcome dates and 24hr dates as you desire

View from our room
Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Our room at Qasr Al Sarab

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates


The entrance gates to Qasr al Sarab have a miniature Jurassic Park type of feel, there;s something a little bit Disneyland fantasy ride about it, but this of course is just the teaser. After passing through the initial gates, unbeknown to the first timer, you still have a 14km drive, or a (15-20 min) run before you get to the resort itself.

A few kms from the resort, after you've driven through flame orange coloured sand dunes, the resort starts to reveal itself slowly. It unfolds gently but epically, like an elaborate mirage set amongst the might of the imperious sand dunes in the vast expanse of emptiness. Then when you arrive at the formal entrance to the resort you're greeted with an Arabian style fortress that draws you to its inner sanctum via the grand entrance bridge, lined with oversized lantern style lights. It's a scene conjured up from pure fantasy.


Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates


This surreal resort built in the middle of the desert to the tune of $5 billion dollars is a gold coloured fortress whose magnetism and aura is more than enough to be able to mentally transform you to the stories of 1001 Arabian nights where you feel that you could easily encounter Sinbad, Aladdin, Scheheradze or Jafar. With moody lanterns lighting the buildings, gorgeous Persian rugs running through the interior, turrets, date palms, faux mud-brick, shaded courtyards and sparkling fountains, the immediate impression is purely magical. A sense of both grandeur and wonder catches you from the start.


For our stay I had booked us into a Deluxe Terrace Room, a large corner room that overlooked the massive mirage style pool, with expansive views out to the desert. It provided out with an outlook was simply beyond words. Altogether other worldly is the best way to describe the views over sand with the setting sun playing its role as an artist on the vast sand canvas presented in front of us.


The resort itself is formed on a crescent shaped dune and stretches around a distance of what must be 1km. To support its ongoing operational needs there's also a town of 5000 workers required to make things run, maintain and service guests, which makes for a mighty grand business a long way from any other place of real significance. Admittedly it's not like the place is built on the moon but hey, if you needed to test what challenges the moon would bring in terms of a base, then you could do a lot worse than starting in location such as this.



Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates


The real trap to being a guest out here is the concept of time and what you do to occupy yourself during its passing. Breakfast is always a great place to start and in the Emirates, from what I've discovered, do buffets in such an absurdly outlandish fashion that you just don't know where to commence. Omelette stations, waffle stations, pancake stations, Asian food, European food, Indian.The choice is overwhelming and makes me think of Pareto optimality in the concept of choice, the theory being that when there's too much choice and thus too many factors to consider in making a decision then the optimal choice is rarely the one taken. A situation such as this typifies the dilemma.



Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates


Most of our  days had us occupying a spot at the insanely large oasis style pool. A perfectly normal past time had we have had a normal situation, but let me tell you, a normal situation would more than likely not have you being outside, baking in the Arabian sun, when the temperature was over 50 degrees. But of course, I have a Northern European wife whose fear of missing the sunlight means that she'll take it at every single opportunity available, because you know, it may not come back for months! Considering her love of the sun and her tolerance of heat, I was still amazed that she was able to bare being out in the sun baking her body whilst being in a furnace. She did that as I took refuge in the pool, and at the bar mostly. How in the world she was able to endure those temperatures and feel normal was beyond my realm of understanding.



Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates

Qasr al Sarab Desert Resort - Rub' Al Khali Desert - Empty Quarter - United Arab Emirates


Shisha was also a go to move for us in the time when cocktails and sunshine were not occupying our time. We did also manage to get out on a desert camel ride one day which was impressive and not the diabolical, painful experience that my parents described to me from a few years earlier. Of course, being 30 years younger than them meant there wasn't the same sort of stress and awkwardness placed on ageing muscles. 


What stood out for me, outside of the wondrous decor of the resort was just the scale and vastness of the setting. An environment where the sound of silence is beautiful, where the vast emptiness is astonishingly attractive and the ever changing mood of the sun is played out on its own personal canvas, shifting, changing but ever enduring and ever eternal.

Thursday, August 3, 2017

Dubai (United Arab Emirates) - Petrodollars in the fast lane

DUBAI (United Arab Emirates)
03 August - 06 August 2017


First timers in Dubai are immediately struck by three things on arrival. First the heat, it has a real presence but isn't oppressive in the down trodden equatorial type of way, it's just damned hot without beating the will out of you. Then there's a city under-construction. A place that's being built up, built out, being built bigger, further, more outlandishly and with greater difficulty than any place on earth. Then there's the over display of wealth, the Ferrari parked behind a Maserati, in front of a Bugati. That's exactly the way Inga experienced her first trip to this part of the world.

Four decades ago this was a small fishing town located on the banks of Dubai creek. Isn't it amazing what a fist full of petrodollars, an enigmatic airline and an aristocracy with wild vision can do to completely transform what was simply a dot in the desert. Dubai has now become a glamorous, spectacular and futuristic location where the wild, unconventional and preposterous becomes common place on almost a daily basis. The will to do what anywhere else would be impossible simply shows that we are collectively capable, right now.


Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates


The money that ignites the fire of development and futurism here also drives the commercial acumen and its absurd ambition. It honestly does feel like anything can happen on this barren playing field. I was first here in 2006, with my last occasion being in 2012. Six years in Dubai feels like 20 years anywhere else, but hell, 10 years is a lifetime and the changed I witnessed arriving this time comparative to the Dubai of my mind that I had left 5-6 years earlier was just staggering.

Money runs through the veins of society here, although it appears it is only the elite Emirati that know anything about what that looks and feels like. The theme-park like hotels, world renowned restaurants, creative bars and monstrous malls are all part of the enveloping strategy of driving a burgeoning economy of belief through its bonfire of excess. It's big and unapologetic for it. Why these guys haven't already sent their countrymen to Mars and set up shop there is still beyond my understanding.


View from our room at the Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

View from our room at the Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

View from our room at the Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Shangri La Hotel - Dubai - United Arab Emirates


Driving into Dubai was like visiting the comic cartoon world of the Jetsons. If flying Ubers become a thing then you can expect Dubai to visually be that city of your childhood fantasy.  Sheik Zayed road is just a line of what seems like monolithic structures built in honour of the almighty dollar, or dirham. But don't get me wrong, I'm not calling out the overt consumerism and overt everything for being ostentatious, I mean it does that on its own, but for fun and enjoyment, hell, why wouldn't you want to experience a place like this if you could?

We stayed at the magnificent Shangri La Hotel just across from the tallest structure on earth, the Burj Khalifa. For a view that specifically framed the urban Dubai landscape it was impressive. The architectural skyline here is wild and these days extends for kilometres down Sheik Zayed road. I mean there's room to move too and the new Al Maktoum airport, 40kms to the south in Jebel Ali, Dubai's 2nd major import, also kind of frames the boundary of the city. So there appears to be a hell of a lot more growing that Dubai is allowing itself.

Inga & I went to the Burj Khalifa in Down Town Dubai to check out the epitome of what it is to dream big and be the biggest in the World. With a height of 829.8 mtrs,  standing some 160 floors the face of the earth, this architectural artefact of will and engineering also has a hell of an impressive view from its At the top experience - the 148th floor Skydeck, it was something to behold. The lights of the city spread out into the distance and as the light mirrored off the glass exterior of the building typified the 'glitter on glitter' approach that Dubai is known for.


At the top experience - the Skydeck on the 148th floor of the Burj Khalifa - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

At the top experience - the Skydeck on the 148th floor of the Burj Khalifa - Dubai - United Arab Emirates


Dubai - United Arab Emirates


At the top experience - the Skydeck on the 148th floor of the Burj Khalifa - Dubai - United Arab Emirates




Skyview Bar - Burj Al Arab - Dubai - United Arab Emirates


Skyview Bar - Burj Al Arab - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Burj Al Arab - Dubai - United Arab Emirates


Another well known and futuristic design recognised around the world is the Burj al Arab. Standing on its own artificial island built out into the Persian Gulf, this building which hosts the worlds only 7 star hotel, stands out like a sail against the blue of the Gulf. Inga & I went up one evening to watch the sunset and occupy a window position at the Skyview Bar & Restaurant. With an impressive cocktail set and matching canapes to boot, the service was outstanding. The thing that I thought caught the place out somewhat was its garish decor. It looks like the interior of an 80's airport, odd colour matches, shapes and schemes everywhere. I'm not quite sure how they got it so wrong but a place of such repute really needs to review the way it presents itself. It seems way out of touch for its offering and I have seen better at a second rate Las Vegas casino.

Two other typically Dubai things that we did were to take on Ski Dubai, a massive indoor Ski Resort that provides snowboarding  and skiing opportunities and lets families have a full European ski holiday experience in a day whist the Arabian sun beats down 50+ degree temperatures at their front door.  Located inside the massive Mall of the Emirates this attraction has also been significantly upgraded since the first time I was here in 2006, and mind you, it was pretty damn good then. 



Dunes outside of Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Inside the 'Dune bashing experience' - Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates


I'd been telling Inga of my snowboarding prowess for sometime now, so finally I was going to be able to show off my snowboarding skills. And sure, I was a bit rusty straight out of the gate (I literally fell over the kids slopes), but I rebounded with aplomb and was carving into the hard pack snow in no time at all. In actual fact MVP of the day had to go to Inga. For a person whose snowboarding skills, for a beginner, were mighty, mighty impressive. What she accomplished in 1hr in Dubai is probably what  I was able to pick up after 3-4 days on my first time out in Perisher.



Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates


We did manage to get out of Dubai one afternoon and took to a 4WD safari that carved up the bright orange sand outside of the city. I had done one of these tours some years ago and totally forgot the enjoyment and at some points fear that flying over the dunes and sailing down improbable slopes felt like. I know that Inga absolutely loved it, especially when some of the turns looked so audacious and outlandish that we felt compelled to brace for a roll. 



Dubai - United Arab Emirates

Dubai - United Arab Emirates


Dubai is one of those cities that you can either love or hate. If you embrace the enormity and are willing to spend a few dollars, which the city nigh demands on you, then you'll have a good time. It'll also help to be into shisha. One of the coolest things to do in Dubai is to find yourself a shisha cafe and puff on some sweet hubbly bubbly that will make your head spin.