South Korea - it's a wrap

South Korea - It's a wrap

16 July 2025

As has become standard for me when I've ended a trip I've taken to doing a last summary or a 'greatest hits' review whenever I managed to complete the final entry on the 'how, why, when and whatever else may have been alcohol related' blog series of my most recent escapades.  Usually at this point I’ll write, ‘sticking with the tradition of other escapades’, but the fact is that in more recent entries I just didn’t get around to completing a wrap. So lets now celebrate the belated return of the tour wrap ……

,,,,,I therefore bring you the close out of my South Korea experience, So let’s do it, here are the highs, lows, hits and misses of imagining your own Korea tour.

[Morocco - Europe wrap - June/July 2008]

[Laos wrap - April 2009]

[Vietnam-Malaysia wrap - December/January 2009/10]

[Europe - Morocco - South America wrap 2010]

[USA - Mexico wrap - February/March 2011]

[Brazil/U.A.E wrap - December/January 2011/12]

South Korea - 2025

Favourite places

In Seoul it has to be Euljiro, or as the locals call it, ‘Hipjiro’ – one of Seoul’s most captivating contrasts. By day, a maze of hardware shops and prints stores, but by night, this place exudes mystery, energy and promise. A hidden playground of speakeasies, craft beer bars, restaurants and multi-coloured neon-lit alleyways – to quote myself from the original blog piece, a neon-soaked playground of vibrant energy with subtle dystopian undertones. Intoxicating a vibrant, this is stands out as my favourite nighttime destination in Seoul.

Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

In Busan I rate Gwangalli beach highly. I was drawn to it by its Saturday evening drone show and then quickly came to realise that this location had a laid-back seaside charm that also has a buzzing nightlife equal to any major city. Framed by the glittering Gwangan bridge, I witnessed the shoreline transform during the early evening into a strip of bustling, thrumming, bars and restaurants. At some point I found myself in a bowling alley on the 10^th floor of a building, having a drink and looking out onto the Gwangan bridge – that to me was the epitome of a cool experience and kinds of sums up what I think of South Korea.

Gwangalli Beach - Busan - South Korea

Gwangan bridge from Gwangalli Beach - Busan - South Korea

Most surprising

This response is less about a place or area and more about Seoul’s café culture obsession. If Melbourne is the café hub of Australia ( a badge that it wears with pride), then Seoul is an alpha city, competing easily with any contender or pretender to that throne. Every neighbourhood boasts stylish, themed, and very ‘Instagrammable’ destinations. On my first day in Seoul I spent some time on Café Onion, in Anguk (Jongo) district, and it was an experience. I also passed Soha Salt Pond in Ikseon-dong, which from the outside looked like more of a destination than a place to get a caffeine hit, but be sure, the output is certainly equal to the hype. For my experience, Anguk, Ikseon-dong & Seongsu-dong were teeming with cafes – which also aligns to another surprising element beyond the caffeine fixes, there seems to be a deep appreciation and loved for baked goods. Obviously there’s an association here but boutique bakeries are everywhere. I often passed the Artist Bakery in Anguk and there was never a time that the line didn’t go out the door and wind around the building. Each bakery takes the time to carefully craft & present their delicate, artisanal wares. This is an experience and something not to be missed when in Seoul.

Cafe Onion - Anguk - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

Cafe Onion - Anguk - Jongno District - Seoul - South Korea

Coolest place for a night out

Euljiro in Seoul and Gwangalli Beach in Busan were my standouts. Honourable mentions in Seoul go to Hongdae, Itaewon and Ikseon-dong, with Ikseon-dong being my favourite from the runners-up. To me, Ikseon-dong felt like a secret village hidden in plain sight. In a city of 8 million people, stepping off the main street and into its hanok alleys was like walking into an open air speakeasy. Intimate bars, cocktail dens and quirky cafes abound in the midst of beautiful collaboration of old world charm and modern creativity. I also want to highlight Seosulla-gil  in the Jongno District which became familiar to me through my nightly walks home. An ‘up and comer’ in Seoul, this is being identified as a ‘to-be’ hip destination before being widely accepted as such. Get there now.

Ikseon-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Ikseon-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Best accommodation

I only stayed in two locations, so instead of nominating an actual property, I'll nominated the areas that I think would make great stays. In Seoul, for me the Jongno District or Ikseon-dong had it in spades. In all my pre-travel research I was taking bets on Myeongdong for how central it is, or, Itaewon for its integrated nightlife - I don't believe that either would have been appropriate for me. Jongno and Ikseon-dong have a lovely blend of the old charm of Seoul, with the new, creative, modern hip spirit of youth. These areas feel more refined, are trendier and less crowded, but have far more appeal that the high flyers mentioned. In Busan I stayed on Haeundae beach, which was fantastic but would give this one to Gwangalli beach on reflection. Gwangalli seemed to have a bit more of everything in the night life stakes but with that said, both were fantastic.

Best drink

Soju is the undeniable king here. With me it had an inauspicious start on my second morning when I grabbed a bottle out of fridge at the Benikea – The Bliss, hotel in Incheon. It didn’t earn any plaudits on its debut. Usually a distilled rice drink, it presents as clear, smooth and slightly sweet. Drinking it out of the bottle ‘just for kicks’ did nothing, but with that said, I knew nothing. The moment that I paired it with my favourite style of meal, usually a spicy or savoury dish, then the whole world of soju made perfect sense.

Soju - Itaewon - Seoul - South Korea

Best meal

This one is easy, Dak-galbi is a dish of bite sized chicken pieces marinated in the wonderful gochujang sauce/marinade, which imparts a spice, sweet and savoury taste. The chicken is stir-fried with vegetables and then topped with cheese. When paired with soju the combination is an epicurean delight. An honourable mention goes to tteokbokki, also a fiery & sweet street made food, made from chewy rice cakes and simmered in a bold gochujang sauce. That darn gochujang is so addictive that it was one of the first things I sought out once I arrived back in Melbourne. A shout out to the stall holders at Gwangjang market that made my tteokbokki experience all the more enjoyable.

My favourite disk - Dak-galbi - Itaewon - Seoul - South Korea

Gwangjan market - Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Tteok-Bokki - Gwangjan market - Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Best bars

Honestly, too many to mention. I’ve already identified Euljiro and Gwangalli beach as key in Seoul and Busan, and I would be remiss if I also didn’t mention Huaendae beach in Busan, which was the near equal of Gwangalli. So rather than naming the best bar, I’ll give this one to both an interesting and surprising option, which is Sul 24 on Seousulla-gil 53 - Jongno District – Seoul. This place is literally an unmanned bar, run 24hrs per day, 365 days of the year. There’s no staff, no pressure, just grab your own drinks and enjoy. It says a lot about South Korea and its people that this place work without an issue.

Sul 24 on Seousulla-gil 53 - Jongno District – Seoul - South Korea

Favourite photos

The nightscape is so vibrant - Gunam-ro - Haeundae - Busan - South Korea

The back alleys of Euljiro - this to me is evokes those feels of mystery, energy and discovery

Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

I took this whilst walking the back streets of Itaewon - its simple but there's something cool about it

Itaewon - Seoul - South Korea

Sky capsules in Haeundae - I love how the capsules traverses the skyline

Haeundae beach - Busan - South Korea

Early evening on Cheonggyecheon canal - Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Coolest moments

Sitting outside at another wonderful bar in Euljiro, looking out onto a little lantern filled alley, I was just in the moment and truly enjoying the whole experience.

Un-coolest moment

Seoul works so efficiently, everything makes sense and is intuitive, even for the first time tourist, but what I can’t figure out for the life of me is why a travel pass can only be topped up with cash. There was no option to top up with a credit card, which in itself presented a problem to me when I lost my initial travel card and was able to get a replacement, but couldn’t place any credit onto it. Going around to find an ATM presented such an unnecessary nuisance, especially on my last day.

Most random but still cool moment

On my first night wondering Anguk, I walked into a cute little bar hidden inside a Hanok village, and there I met barman Min, bartender, resident DJ and great guy extraordinaire. He was so attentive, so personable and on my second night in attendance, he let me bash out a really bad version of What’s the story morning glory. If I can somehow find the name of the bar at a later stage, I’ll include the link.

My man Min, spinning some tunes for me in Anguk - Seoul - South Korea

Best comeback

This relates directly to my un-coolest moment and just goes to show how acting like a confused foreigner will give you liberties that otherwise wouldn’t exist. After misplacing my travel card the evening before and not wanting to run around with my luggage to find an ATM, I elected to play dumb through various metro lines, acting confused and bewildered whenever I was pulled up for ‘insufficient funds’. The most I was every interrogated was at my final stop at Incheon Airport where the transit officer quizzed me on where I purchased the card, how many won I added, etc. After a couple minutes of a circular argument he obviously realised the futility of the situation and let me through – case closed.

Travel breakdown

Total number of flights - 2

Total flying hours – 18 hrs

Total time spent in airports - 'Not many, if any...' - All recognition and rights to that line go to Scribe, not may people can roll like him!

Total number of train rides - 1

Total number of bus rides - 1

Total number of sky capsule ride - 2

Total distance travelled – 17220 kms

Total bottles of Soju downed - 12 (give or take)

Thank you South Korea

Incheon Airport - Incheon - South Korea

South Korea, the surprise packet! Energetic, vibrant and running towards the future, whilst at the same time, incorporating its culture in a number of ways to ensure that its preserved for generations to come. A truly engaging, wonderful place. I can’t wait to come back and spend more time here.

Seoul (South Korea) - the DMZ (South Korea) - Peeking into the Hermit Kingdom

 

Seoul (South Korea) - the DMZ (South Korea) - peeking into Kijong-dong & Kaesong (North Korea)

15 July 2025

 

On my final day in Seoul, I decided to head north to the Korean Demilitarised Zone (DMZ), a place I’d long been aware of and quietly fascinated by. Beyond that, I couldn’t resist the chance to steal a glimpse into the enigmatic and extremely tightly controlled and guarded world of North Korea, the ‘Hermit Kingdom’.

From Seoul, I joined a guided tour into the DMZ, something that’s easy enough to arrange given the sheer number of operators, but invaluable in terms of providing streamlined access to such a highly restricted area. The highlight was the Dora Observation Tower, perched just a stone’s throw from the border, where you can look directly into the North Korean town of Kijong-dong. Nicknamed ‘Propaganda Village,’ it presents an eerie façade: neatly painted buildings and towering flagpoles with no real inhabitants, an empty stage set designed to project the illusion of prosperity and vitality. Other key stops advertised on the trip were to be Imjingak Park, a significant cultural site with several monuments and the Bridge of Freedom, and then also, the Third Infiltration tunnel, one of four that have been discovered – even though its thought that there could more than 20 still to be discovered.

The North Korean border is surprisingly close to Seoul, its just under 1 hour drive time from its centre. Considering the fairly early morning start (approx: 7am), most of us chose to snooze most of the way until arriving at the DMZ.

The DMZ is often thought to be completely uninhabited, and that’s the way that I had imagined it prior to this day, but what I quickly came to learn is that its not a vacant stretch of land. There are small numbers of South Koreans that live within its boundaries, mainly in the village of Daeseong-dong, often referred to as ‘Freedom Village’, which acts at the democratic, free, southern counterpart to Kijong-dong. The strip of land between the two countries is approximately 3-5 kms wide and runs for a distance of 250kms, roughly aligned to the 38^th parallel north, which was the original division set between the US and Soviet Union after World War II. It is certainly one of the most heavily fortified borders on earth, with guard posts, checkpoints and surveillance in abundance. From the moment you arrive, the military presence is unmistakable, and the tension between the two Koreas becomes almost tangible. The 1953 armistice may have halted open conflict, but it never formally ended the war, technically the two nations remain at war to this day. That reality hangs heavily in the air, and as you pass through the checkpoint into the DMZ, the sense of unease is palpable. There have been times since 1953 where various incidents that pushed the tensions between the two nations to boiling point, namely the 1968 Blue House Raid, the 1983 Rangoon bombing and 1976 Korean Axe murder incident. Of course, there have also been time where relations were quite amicable, and indeed, the 2018 Pyeongchang Olympics were both nations competed under the common, ‘Korean unification flag’, with a unified team competing in woman’s ice hockey. So, it was with this background and context that we entered Imjingak Park, our first stop of the morning.

In all honesty, the first stop was a bit dull, although I did get a little bit out of seeing Freedom Bridge and the remnants of the Gyeongui Train Line.

Freedom Bridge was originally a railroad bridge used during the Korean War, which gained its name after the armistice agreement when over 12,000 South Korean prisoners of war were returned to South Korea, crossing the bridge from the North, back into their homeland. Additionally, the Gyeongui Train Line, once a vital link between Pyongyang and Seoul, was partly destroyed during the war. Today, both the rail line and its bridge stand as powerful symbols of division and hope. For many South Koreans, the longing for reunification is unmistakable, and their emotions surface openly when they speak of it.

Imjinak Park - Paju - South Korea

Imjinak Park - Paju - South Korea

Imjinak Park - Paju - South Korea

For me, the real highlight of the half-day tour was our stop at Dora Observatory. Perched just a short distance from the South Korean side in the DMZ, provides a prime vantage point to peer into this most isolated and secluded territory.  As I said, this was a real highlight, mostly for the fact that I anticipate that I may never get the opportunity to enter North Korea, and if I did, as it stands, the risk would be significant.

The viewing platform is more than just a standing ‘perch’. There’s a small auditorium, a café and large windows where you’re able to clearly view the North Korean village of Kijong-dong. With the binoculars that we were provided you could clearly see the empty streets, buildings, extreme flagpost and terrain that separates both territories. Unfortunately photography isn’t allowed within this area and hence what I’ve produced here are online photos that show pretty much exactly what I was able to see on that day.

Its oddly voyeuristic, peering into a village if illusion, constructed as a ruse to project an image of something idyllic and prosperous. Although strangely, if you look further into the distance, between a large gap in the hills, you can see some bland, tall towers of an actual North Korean city, Kaesong. This city, about 8kms from the actual military demarcation line (aka – the border), is a real, functioning city. I did wonder, whether on days like this, you have North Koreans looking up at the observatory and just imagining what could possibly be on the other side. How fickle and arbitrary life can be, that the course of your entire existence may be shaped simply by the place where your journey begins.

Looking at Kijong-dong - North Korea - from Dora Observatory - Paju-si - Gyeonggi-do - South Korea 

Note: this is not my photo, I have taken the following from https://www.gettyimages.com.au/search/2/image?phrase=dora+observatory

Looking at Kijong-dong - North Korea - from Dora Observatory - Paju-si - Gyeonggi-do - South Korea 

Note: this is not my photo, I have taken the following from https://www.gettyimages.com.au/search/2/image?phrase=dora+observatory

Looking at Kijong-dong - North Korea - from Dora Observatory - Paju-si - Gyeonggi-do - South Korea 

Note: this is not my photo, I have taken the following from https://www.gettyimages.com.au/search/2/image?phrase=dora+observatory

Our final stop of the morning was at the Third Aggression tunnel, also known as the Third Infiltration tunnel, and one of the most audacious incursions by the North into the South. Built by North Korea, some assume for purposes of an invasion, the tunnel runs for approximately 1.6kms and runs about 400+ mtrs south of the military demarcation line. Residing 70+ mtrs below ground, it remained undetected for years before South Korea detected seismic activity in the region, which they later understood to be explosions in the tunnel set off by North Korean activity.

Having previously experienced intense claustrophobia while navigating the Cu Chi tunnels near Ho Chi Minh City, I approached this space with caution. That experience taught me a lot about my triggers and how to manage them effectively to avoid a panic attack—something I’ve only encountered once in my life.

From that moment, I learned two key strategies that help me stay grounded:

1. Maintain control over my movement – Being stuck in a confined tunnel, especially in a long queue where I couldn’t move freely, was overwhelming. Ensuring I could move at my own pace was essential.
2. Positioning matters – I found it much easier to stay calm when I was either at the front or the back of the line. Both positions gave me a sense of autonomy and an easy exit if needed.

From the entrance, through a main tunnel and drives fairly sharply down the actual tunnel is about 170mtrs. Which then allows you to walk the actual tunnel for about 60 odd mtrs. The going is fairly slowly and the tunnel proper was about as small and as imposing as I had imagined. Small, damp and eerie. I managed to control my mindset well enough, which allowed me to get to the end of the tourist allowed section of the tunnel. The South Koreans have now put in place three concrete barricades in the tunnel, blocking off access from the north. As it stands, you are able to walk to the third concrete barricade and sight the second barricade, with the third standing beyond that. From what we were advised, the third barricade sits between 170-230 mtrs from the actual North-South demarcation line. So I can now say that I’ve been as close at 170mtrs from North Korea, not a bad stamp to have on my mental passport.

Our DMZ tour group - That's me on the right side of the M, front row - Paju-si - Gyeonggi-do - South Korea 

Dora Observatory - Paju-si - Gyeonggi-do - South Korea 

Note: this is not my photo, I have taken the following from https://www.gettyimages.com.au/search/2/image?phrase=dora+observatory

Third Infiltration Tunnel; - Paju-si - Gyeonggi-do - South Korea 

Note: this is not my photo, I have taken the following from https://www.seoulcitytour.net/English/engdmz01.html?ckattempt=1

Overall, I really enjoyed the experience and for just $35 AUD, the tour was worth it. The Dora Observatory offered fascinating insights into the region, and the Third Tunnel of Aggression turned out to be far more compelling than I had anticipated. If you're considering it, I'd definitely recommend it as a worthwhile half-day trip. It’s affordable, informative and surprisingly memorable.

Finishing up in Myeongdong, I decided to make my way to the airport and start the return journey home. Walking slowly to Seoul Central, I reflected on my time in this fascinating country. There are many things that I liked about my time and I came away thinking that whilst Japan is the tourist flavour of the month, there will be a time for South Korea when its popularity will skyrocket. There’s a lot to like here and more than enough to have me already thinking about how I can make my way back.

Seoul - South Korea

Making it to Incheon Airport several hours early, I passed effortlessly through security and customs. The choice from there was easy, I found myself a paid airport lounge and partook in the delights of free flowing alcohol and the all-you-can eat buffet. For me, airport lounges are the ‘travel tip’ that I always recommend. If you have 2+ hours at an airport and don’t mind a drink, then paying $40-$50 for 2+ hours of free flowing alcohol is fantastic.

Incheon Airport - Incheon - South Korea

Thank you South Korea

Incheon Airport - Incheon - South Korea

Imagine your Korea – there you have it, I just did. Thank you South Korea, you were unexpected but a more than welcome addition to my travel memories.

Busan (South Korea) to Seoul (South Korea) - Little by little

 

Busan (South Korea) – Seoul (South Korea)

13 July – 14 July 2025

On my last morning in Busan I knew that I had under-stayed my visit by a couple of days. A feeling of that nature is always bittersweet. It leaves you with a desire to return, to reminisce for the experiences that you had, and also, for those that were lost due to the temerity of time. The darn clock just keeps ticking and it doesn’t answer to anyone.

Heading out from the intercity bus station in Busan and making my way back into Seoul was as simple as you’d want it to be. Nothing hard, deceptive or counter-intuitive, and the connections from metro, to bus and back onto metro in Seoul were how you always imagine transport connections to be if they were designed with efficiency and effectiveness in mind.

Back in Seoul and I returned to the initial neighbourhood that I stayed in just a few days before, Jongno. There’s something nice about coming back to a place where you feel comfortable with your surrounds, and also a something a little arrogant about watching other ‘newbies’ turning up the area and watching them struggle – like looking down on them seems inherently normal even though you were in the same position just days earlier.

For this Sunday afternoon I decided that I would spend it in the ‘up and coming’ (with a bullet) hoods of Seongsu

Seongsu-dong

Seongsu-dong is one of those neighbourhoods in Seoul where the past and present collide in the most unexpected way. Once known mainly as the city’s shoe-making hub, its old factories and warehouses are now being reimagined as cafés, art galleries, and boutique shops. In another example of drawing an analogy of an iconic global neighbourhood, Seongsu-dong has been called the ‘Brooklyn of Seoul’. Aha, here we go again, that metaphorical comparison where a place itself bestows the characteristics and qualities of another through repetitive and reinforced narratives. I often wonder if doing this somehow infuses the community with the desire to pursue the vision which is being bestowed on them, or, whether its visitors such as myself that reinforce the vision by repeating the marketing narrative? I anticipate, if I’m being rational, that the feedback loop from a community perspective creates the frame by which is can aspire to be likened to a well known place, and likewise, it’s people like me that produce that quick mental shortcut to draw a comparison and develop a frame of reference by which we can experience and new destination. Either way, it worked. On this day I had the choice of exploring ‘Psy’s Gangum’, or, delving into the ‘Brooklyn of Seoul’. Having only passed through Brooklyn the single time that I’d been to New York, I chose the latter option.

Seongsu-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Seongsu-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Seongsu-dong - Seoul - South Korea

My expectations were somehow set within the framework of a gentrified industrial space. For some reason my idea of Brooklyn seemed to be rooted in that context. On arriving in Seongsu-dong, that’s what I felt like I was met with. An heavily industrial canvas, an area of gritty authenticity, with veins of creativity and commercialism running through its construct.

A gorgeous cafe in Seongsu-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Windows over Brooklyn - Seongsu-dong - Seoul - South Korea

On a late Sunday afternoon the streets were buzzing with teens and twenty-somethings lining up for various stores, occupying tables in what looked to be some very hip restaurants, or simply cruising the streets as an indulgent pastime. Certainly, there was an imbued energy that permeated through the neighbourhood. There was street art, murals and installations that punctuated what must have been a very different neighbourhood in the past. From what I discovered, the transformation came in the early 2010’s when the young creatives of the city were drawn by the area’s low rents, convenient transport connections and collective mindset of creativity. And certainly, you can see that, walking its blocks, turning into random streets and alleyways, there are stylish and chic bars that draw the attention. It’s almost like an onion, revealing itself in all the more alluring layers through each step that you take into its interior. Designers, artists, and musicians have made the district their playground, filling the warehouses with their studios, cafés, and concept stores.

Rooftop play pool - Seongsu-dong - Seoul - South Korea

Sunset in Seongsu-dong - Seoul - South Korea

I slowly drifted through Seongsu, with no real planned destination but just kind of dragged along with the current, happy to be led rather than target anything specifically. I found myself in some really spectacular cafes and bars, intrigued each time by the element of surprise and by both the audacity and creativity.

There are plenty of “Instagrammable” corners in Seoul, but Seongsu is easily one of the most celebrated. Locals flock to its ever-changing side streets, where traditional shoemakers still practise their craft beside cutting-edge galleries and sleek design spaces. The result is a neighbourhood defined by contrast, a place where the city’s industrial roots stand shoulder to shoulder with its dynamic, creative future.

Euljiro – a neon-soaked playground of vibrant energy with subtle dystopian undertones

Euljiro!! This is what I needed.

I loved Jogno and Ikseon-dong. Had fun in Hongdae & Itaewon, and meandered through Myeongdong but this was it. I discovered some truly irresistible spots that perfectly match the kind of nightlife I crave. There’s something intoxicating about the way the narrow streets wrap you in their own world of mystery, the subtle rush of endorphins as you step this space that seems to have its own rules. Especially at night, when shadows and neon collide, that feeling of being completely absorbed by the city is exhilarating. Alleyways that reveal a hive of hip and sometimes, well hidden bars, craft beer joints, and some great late-night eateries. This place is cool. The atmosphere is charged and yet the area is unpolished, deliberately shabby, with exteriors meant to disarm. Exposed pipes, concreate walls, fluorescent lights, all reimagined as the backdrop for some really interesting nightlife spots. There were doors and walls that I walked past a number of times before realising the ‘secret’ only when I saw people walking through a random vending machine into a heaving bar, or seeing the entrance to what looked to be a decrepit tailors shop and realising that there was much, much more going on inside.

Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

An area of Seoul that has now become one of this most exciting after dark playgrounds, I entered somehow by chance and with no real expectation. But this neighbourhood off gritty industrial charm and sometime, blinding neon

Euljiro was fantastic. In some ways as exciting as San Telmo in Buenos Aires. Barri Gotic in Barcelona or the Old Quarter in Hanoi. This was was ‘my Korea’, or rather, me ‘imagining my Korea’. Without at all disparaging other areas, this was certainly my favourite. A blend of the old and new, minimalist wine bars, retro-themed bars, the multi-coloured glow of neon, and those intriguing undertones of how you feel a dystopian world may present itself.

Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

A travel themed bar in Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

I LOVED the backstreets of Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

Another bar in 'Hipjiro' - Euljiro - Seoul - South Korea

The locals call this area ‘Hipjiro’, which , a nod to its transformation into a cultural hotspot, but its appeal lies in the fact that it hasn’t lost its gritty, working-class roots.  Far less polished than Gangnam and less tourist-driven than Hongdae, its nightlife is as much about exploration as it is about drinking, half the fun is weaving through the labyrinth of alleys to see what hidden gem you’ll find next. For me, this area was truly Seouls’ major drawcard and an unforgettable. If and when Seoul has me back, Euljiro will be No.1 on the list as to why I’ll be returning.

Walking back to Jongno, I crossed Cheonggyecheon stream - Euljiro - South Korea 

The truly fabulous dish, dak-galbi  - Itaewon - South Korea 

In fact, I did return to Eurljiro the next evening after making my way down to Itaewon for a magical plate of Dak-galbi, which as I’ve mentioned earlier, is a masterful dish of marinated chicken stir-fried  with vegetables in the magical ‘sauce’ or chilli paste, gochujang. The version I had was topped off with cheese and it was absolutely my favourite dish during my time in Korea.

Busan (South Korea) - A Saturday in Busan

Busan (South Korea)

12 July 2025

A Saturday in Busan, and a rarity for me, a full day dedicated to doing anything that came to mind in my ‘Busan discovery’.  For this morning, I was going to dedicate some time to an interesting, vibrant and somewhat beatnik area of Busan, Gamcheon Cultural Village. Sometimes called the ‘Santorini of Korea’… but for me….not quite, I more aligned it to being akin the ‘Valparaiso of Chile’ or the ‘La Boca of Buenos Aires’, but a little more of that shortly.

Waking up relatively early, I allowed myself time to take in the spectacular Haeundae Beach from the Mipo Oceanside Hotel. Its always a pleasure to give yourself the opportunity to absorb your surrounding unimpeded and without haste. Travel can so often be compartmentalised into check-box items, snippets of manufactured or tokenistic highlights, where your experience is more about tolerating the process and the crowds. These days I find a lot of pleasure in those quiet, reflective moments. With the morning sun beating down on the beach, the full sounds of the waves hitting the shore and the faint punctuation of early the early morning active crowd, this made for a great start to the day.

Haeundae Beach from the Mipo Oceanside Hotel - Busan - South Korea

I left the hotel about 0830 and effectively utilised the walk to the station as a bit of a time trial for the next day as I’d also be out early in order to head to the inter-city bus station in Nopo. I wanted to test out the walk to Jung-dong station, which on paper looked like the closer metro stop to the hotel but actually felt, in testing, like the longer walk. In any case, jumping on the metro at Jung-dong, I took the green line to Seomyeon station and then changed onto the Orange line in order to get to the closest metro stop to Gamcheon Village, Toseong station.

I made the perhaps the whimsically flippant decision to walk from the station to the village, which I assume by many would been just plain foolhardy. I found relatively quickly that there was a significant amount of effort that needed to be expelled in order make the ascent up the hillside just to get to the starting point. At this point it was about 10:00am, the sun was beaming, and we were easily about 30 degrees….but hey…you know I like a challenge! I’m also 100% sure that Inga would have approved of the escapade.

Climbing up out from Toseong station, guessing my way blindly to where I ‘thought’ the village would be located, which I occasionally verified with mental picture of the location map that I downloaded into my brain the night before. With that said, both my intuition and natural sense of orientation got my up to the village in a reasonable amount of time, with not a single wrong turn.

Gamcheon Cultural Village – the ‘Santorini of South Korea’?

My scepticism rises sharply whenever a person or place is compared to something iconic or universally recognisable. For example, a soccer player being called ‘The Messi of Surinam’, or a location being known as the ‘Niagara Falls of Kuala Lumpur’. That comparison doesn’t do anyone any justice. So lets just leave out the unfair comparisons and lets discuss what the village it, which a tumbling cascade of brightly painted houses stacked on steep hillsides overlooking the port, and what makes it  particularly striking is the way rows of pastel-coloured homes and winding alleyways spill down the slopes, creating a vibrant patchwork that has become one of Busan’s most recognisable sights. And for sure, there are visual associations that I have, the vibrancy and colour remind me of La Boca and Valparaiso, and I’d say the latter is the closest association – Valparaiso being a port town, built on a number of slopes, with houses the colours of the rainbow. Gamcheon is Valpariaso-esque and definitely worth visiting, but its like comparing Tim Cahill to Lionel Messi, Cahill is a great Aussie football star, and Messi is the greatest of all time.

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

A little about Gamcheon

The village has its roots in the 1950s, when refugees from the Korean War settled in the area. At that time, Gamcheon was a poor hillside community where housing was built quickly and cheaply, with residents making do on the margins of the city. For decades it remained underdeveloped, known more for its poverty rather than its beauty. However, that all started to change in 2009, when the government and local artists launched the "Dreaming of Machu Picchu in Busan" project, which aimed at transforming the village into a cultural hub. Walls were painted in bright colours, murals were created, and art installations were placed throughout the streets. This community-led regeneration brought a sense of pride to residents while also attracting visitors. And that’s essentially where we stand today, a major tourist attraction of Busan that draws in travellers for its mixture of visual beauty, artistic perspective, history and local life.

I slowly made my way through the labyrinth of alleyways, steep stairs and streets, appreciate the spectacle. Filled with museums, hillside café’s and bars, the area offers sweeping views over the hills out onto the port. I have to say that I enjoyed a leisurely few hours, stopping for the occasional beverage to once again let it wash over me.

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

Gamcheon Cultural Village - Busan - South Korea

It is interesting how places like this, or La Boca, or Valparaiso, once neglected, utilise the resilience and pride of its residents to ‘find a way’, to go beyond just natural aesthetics and achieve something of world-renowned cultural significance, which in itself is a story that obviously resonate far beyond Busan and South Korea itself, it exemplifies how an idea, art and community driven regeneration can transform hardship into heritage, turning a space marked by poverty into one celebrated for beauty and cultural expression.

After Gamcheon I made my way back to Haeundae onto Gunam-ro, where for some reason I felt compelled to make a lunch stop at a Mexican restaurant, ‘Tejano-Tex-Mex BBQ’, https://www.instagram.com//tejano_tex_mex_bbq/, which I think drew me in for its rooftop access and view, plus its promise of fine margaritas.

Tejano Tex-Mex - Gunam-ro - Haeundae Beach - Busan - South Korea

My afternoon was quite sedate, a walk down the beach, a bottle of soju in my room, and a watching of the last few episodes of series 3 of the Squid Games, which I felt was quite a serendipitous juxtaposition of circumstances.

Gwangalli Beach

In the evening I had planned to make my way to Gwangalli Beach, primarily to check out the drone shows that run twice nighty all through the year. In all honesty, I hadn’t done a lot of research about this area other than the fact that I had assigned myself an evening to explore, but the moment I arrived, I identified very quicky that I had shortchanged myself!

The first evening drown show at 8:00pm clearly displayed everything about Gwangalli Beach that I had not discovered in pre-arrival research. The main road heading to the beach and the immediate side-streets were filled with people in the 15-20 mins prior to the show, so much so that I initially commenced viewing from the street across from the beach. It also noticed that this place was ‘happening’, in a very different way to Haeundae. Lined with exceptionally stylish bars, restaurants, and café’s, this placed exuded energy, style and fun. Certainly it didn’t feel overtly glamourous but there was a sense of style and cool that made the place immediately intriguing and enjoyable.

Gwangan bridge - Gwangalli Beach - Busan - South Korea

Drone show - Gwangalli Beach - Busan - South Korea

Gwangalli Beach - Busan - South Korea

Drone show - Gwangalli Beach - Busan - South Korea

Settling into a spot on the sand, I watched as the night sky came alive with geometric mastery. The drone show was nothing short of spectacular, hundreds of lights gliding effortlessly into place, weaving intricate, almost impossible patterns that unfolded above me in luminous precision, all of which being supported by an equally as luminous Gwangan bridge and a flotilla of colourful pleasure craft that made their way into the bay for the nightly event. I thoroughly enjoyed it. In fact I liked it so much that I thought I’d hang around until the second show at 10pm, and not that was at all difficult in a place like this – Gwangalli was happening. Weaving through the streets of heaving humanity, there was a cacophony of sounds, smells, lights. I wondered why this area had escaped my greater scrutiny during my ‘South Korean investigation period’. It definitely warranted more than just an evening, and on reflection, I found myself deliberating if I should have based myself here.

As the evening marched on, I for some reason locked into to another Mexican style bar/restaurant and whiled away the hours as Busan moved around me. As an inherent introvert and one predisposed to quiet reflection, I felt the city pulse and move around me, with me, in the middle of my bubble.

As the evening unfolded, I found myself drawn into another Mexican-style bar, where I let the hours slip by as Busan moved restlessly around me. I’m an inherent introvert, predisposed to quiet reflection, there I sat within my own bubble, feeling the city’s pulse thrum and flow around me, with me , yet apart from me. I kind of like that sort of groove. I like when I choose to be involved or as detached according to my mood. This was just right.

As the hour approached and the second drone show took to the air, I found myself a prime position in front of French windows that opened out onto the beach. The second show even more impressive than the first as I was in the perfect position to make the most of it.

Drone show - Gwangalli Beach - Busan - South Korea

Post show I walked around the beach, taking in all in. The fantastically lit neon-lit Gwangan bridge casting a glittering reflection across the water, melding with the hum of the bars and restaurants, and the incessant sounds of the waves crashing on the shore. There’s adventure and stories just waiting to be written all over this neighbourhood. I mean I walked into a bowling alley located on the 12^th floor of a building – it had an incredible view of the bridge, the beach AND it had a bowling alley in the sky! I mean really, its as if the universe itself had scripted the opening line of a great yarn right there in front of me…but alas, not for tonight. I’m sure there will be another time, in this very place, and when that day (or night comes), remember I said this, ‘I told you so’. Gwangalli, if there’s truth in precognition, then I know there’s already a moment that has left a mark on me enough to understand that you are significant.