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Monday, July 11, 2016

Rio de Janeiro (BRASIL) - And your Olympic city is.....

Rio de Janeiro (Brasil)
11 July - 14 July 2016



The first Olympics I was fully conscious of and that I can remember with some clarity was Los Angeles in 1984. I recall being on holiday with my family in Croatia. Back then Croatia wasn't a thing, it wasn't the burgeoning tourist destination that it is now, in fact, it wasn't even Croatia, it was still part of Yugoslavia and my family, living in the capital of Belgrade, would do the typical thing of heading to the seas-side over Summer.

There have been some great Olympics. Barcelona in 1992 was memorable and then of course I was lucky enough to have experienced a hometown Olympics in 2000. Now that was truly one of my favourite sporting experiences of all time. I recall riding the train to work each morning from Seven Hills and looking over at the Olympic stadium with the cauldron burning proudly. That was a hell of a good time.


How much do I love the Olympics!? - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Since then I've personally had the feeling that the Olympics have been on the slide, that they may have lost the lustre of being the pinnacle (well, nearly the pinnacle), of world sporting events. My hope, my desire really, was that a somewhat exotic location like Rio, the first South American city to host an Olympics, would bring back some of the excitement and anticipation that had been lost in recent years.



Copacabana beach - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Copacabana beach - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Copacabana beach - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Aside from my Olympic slant, the standing agreement that I have with Inga is that any time we go to Buenos Aires, that Rio is also included on our schedule. Her pilgrimage to Rio is as much about her paying North European homage to sun, sea and sand, as mine is to red wine, football and meat when going to Buenos Aires. In all honesty I'm a big fan of Rio too. What's not to like about the carioca culture, the marvellous beaches of Copacabana & Ipanema, the beautiful people on the beach or running them, the caipirinhas, the easy way of living. Simple pleasures but thoroughly enjoyable.


Copacabana beach from the Porto Bay - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil




Copacabana beach from the Porto Bay - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Driving in from the airport is a known entity to us, and the beginning of that feeling of being in the city always commences when we see Cristo de Redentor. From a distances is always a lot smaller than you anticipate it to be but its position as guardian of the city is undeniable and understandably its acknowledgement is one of the new seven wonders of the world is deserved, I believe.

This time around we decided to stay at the wonderful
PortoBay Rio (Copacabana). Without question, its roof top bar and pool area has one of the great views in Rio. Some six years earlier I had made the wonderful discovery of this location with Janelle and Jet but have never had the opportunity to stay, now was our time and my, what an absolute treat. To virtually be right on the beach and to fall asleep listening to the sounds of the waves crashing on one of the worlds most famous beaches was such a highlight.


Copacabana beach from the Porto Bay - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Copacabana beach from the Porto Bay - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil





Copacabana beach from the Porto Bay - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Porto Bay Hotel - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


A typical day for us in Rio is goes like this. An early morning run from the hotel down to the end of Ipanema and then back to the hotel (around 12kms). Shower and then down for the buffet breakfast inclusive of bottomless champagne. Post breakfast its time to change and then head out to the beach for a few hours in the sun, grabbing caipirinhas from the passing vendors who are brutal with the cachaca! As the light descends during the back part of the day we head up to the roof top bar at the Porto Bay for afternoon drinks and then discuss our options for heading out during the night. Once again, there's nothing overly complicated about the routine but that precisely what's great about it. It's beach culture at its finest.

Typically as a tourist in Rio, if you're not on the beach during the day then you're probably heading up to the viewing point at Cristo de Redentor, or, you're heading up to the top of Sugarloaf. We certainly did both on this trip too, Cristo we did conventionally, taking a bus up from Copacabana like all the other tourists, taking in the views, doing our panoramic photos and partaking in the outstretched arm poses. Sugarloaf however was a little different for us on this occasion.



Cristo de Redentor - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil



                                          Cristo de Redentor - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil





Cristo de Redentor - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

     Cristo de Redentor - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Lagoa rodrigo de freitas - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

 Cristo de Redentor - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

This time I suggested to Inga that we go about climbing Sugarloaf, which you can in fact do by two main routes. The front face belongs to the true climbers, those that know what they hell they're doing and can respect the challenge. The back way, which on the face of it appears like a steep walk is in fact slightly more difficult than that. We decided to take the challenge without entirely realising the degree of difficulty involved. Of course we didn't undertake the ascent on our own, it would have been foolhardy and potentially deadly to have done it that way, but still, we put ourselves into the hands of a knowledgeable local with a large amount of experience of this route.

Initially the ascent from the back of Sugarloaf is nothing more than a trail with a slight gradient. We had assumed that for the most part this would be the case. How wrong we were.



Climbing Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Climbing Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Climbing Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil



Climbing Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Climbing Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil
There's a drop of about 100mtrs just to the left of this photo


Climbing Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


The early part of the climb takes place a vast expanse of rock that is quite open. The issue is that the gradient is relatively steep and the terrain is much the same as walking on a steep pebblecrete surface. Immediately we knew that we weren't prepared, our choice of footwear was enough to signal in the fact that we were less than novices We were more like your weekend experience backyard tree climbers. Having enough knowledge to know that positioning your centre of gravity forward and allowing yourself to 'grip something' for support was probably going to be the way to get this done. Here's where the problem was. This part of the mountain was pebblecrete rock face only. No handles, no crevices, just an upward gradient that made you feel like one slip could have you sliding 50mtrs down the face and into the Atlantic. To say it was disconcerting was a slight understatement. The most difficult section did have a long rope to alleviate the nerves but still, looking down to what could be a harrowing death was not appealing for either of us.



Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Sugarloaf - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil


Conquering pebblecrete alley was one thing. What we didn't know, until such time that Daniel our guide explained it, was that there was about 20mtrs of vertical technical climbing that we needed to undertake...'Hey guide Daniel, excuse me sir, but WTF man, what is this vertical limit garbage and why are you making us wear helmets now'. This is probably where things took a severe turn for Inga. The climb was nerve racking and in moments left us dangling in mid air of the edge of a cliff. It wasn't at all the 'walk in the park' that we expected, and when Inga got to the top of the vertical stretch I could see that her nerves had been completely frazzled.  Admittedly from that point out the climb up was just a path, with some precarious drops to keep us company, but still, just a path. Poor Inga however had been pushed to the edge and she literally climbed 80% of the remaining way on all fours. It would have been looked more than odd from the perspective of a bystander but self preservation sometimes forces you to take drastic steps.


The prize for getting up Sugarloaf in this manner? Probably a saving of $20 for not paying the cable cars, which we more than paid for the guide, so I guess really it's just to say that we'd be some of the small numbers that have that achievement under our belt, and that's pretty cool to know.


Final morning run on Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil

Final morning run on Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro - Brasil




Copacabana, Ipanema and Sugarloaf - all visible from this photo
Rio de Janeiro - Brasil - on the way back to Buenos Aires - Argentina

Whilst our time in Rio was only short lived on this occasion it certainly didn't diminish our enjoyment and love of this city. Just like Buenos Aires we know that this occasion is only one in a long line of visits that we'll inevitably be making in the future.


Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Buenos Aires (ARGENTINA) - the world saunters by and we tango

Buenos Aires (Argentina)
05 July - 11 July 2016
14 July - 16 July 2016

There's just no fighting true love, is there?

Seductive and cultured, sophisticated yet earthy, eclectic but with a strong identity, it never bores, seldom sleeps and invariably mesmerises its visitors - (no source)

(Absolutely)

Even though you find yourself in a city of nearly 13 million inhabitants, you have a feeling of being at home. It's as if the city opens its arms and says: 'This is me; come explore.'"Sanja Hurem

Sanja Hurem, that's exactly it. When I left Buenos Aires after my first visit I missed it. I missed it in that very real, visceral type of way. I felt loss. Not overtly of course but there was a large part of me that needed to go back and that knew deeply that I would make things happen, I would just the plain course of things in order to throw Buenos Aires squarely in my path.

Inga and I had been in Sydney for a few months. We'd finalised things with my aunts place and were rounding out our stay in Australia which we knew wouldn't be a place that we'd return to for any great length of time in the near future. This period of finalisation also coincided with my birthday and the move out from 90 Seven Hills Road perfectly dovetailed in to a few gorgeous nights at the Shangri-La at Circular Quay, one raucous night at the Shady Pines Saloon and then a flight over the Pacific to my spiritual home. 




My 41st birthday - my, doesn't Inga look impressed ?Shady Pines Saloon - Sydney - Australia 


View from the Shangri-La Hotel - Sydney - Australia


Birthday drinks - Shangri-La Hotel - Sydney - Australia


A good 'ole Curry Tiger - Harry's Cafe de Wheels - Capitol Theatre - Haymarket - Sydney


Buenos Aires volvemos

I love the feel of the barrio of San Telmo. From the yellowish hued light dispersed from the tall, noble street lamps and how the light the cobble stone streets to the carnivorous frenzy of the neighbourhood parillas. I can walk through here with absolute  comfort & ease, somehow everything feels in place and I feel like my best self in the midst of it.


San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina



Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

True love aside this trip to Buenos Aires initially felt a little bit off. Occupying an apartment in the heart of San Telmo is usually what I, and now we, do, but this time a few things skewed our demeanour and made various periods of time challenging. Case in point. The first 2-3 days were off kilter in the sense that we found ourselves waking up in the late afternoon/early evening, having totally missed the day. To me it felt like going to watch a movie that you had built up so much anticipation for only to fall asleep and wake up to watch the credits rolling. Coupled with our jet lag was what seemed to be a sanitation strike that had left the streets to pile up with bags of rubbish. Now strike are all too common in Argentina, it's there way of doing things but this experience somehow tainted the pedestal on which I placed this city. Never fear though, Buenos Aires redeemed itself in spades latter on that same year, but more of that....well, latter.


La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


La Brigada - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Still, the tried and true of San Telmo immediately took pride of place on our 'to do' list. A midnight dinner at the much loved institution of La Brigada where cutting your steak with a spoon to prove its tenderness is obligatory. Then of course we needed to dine at Don Ernesto, a typical San Telmo parilla that isn't stunning, in some ways is very plain but has that undefinable quality that traps you in its web. It's a parilla that also give you the opportunity to leave your calling card on premises, which we've done in times gone by and which we did yet again on this occasion. 


Plaza Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina

San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Microcentro - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina



Cafe Tortoni's - Avenida de Mayo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Bar Seddon - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Other favourites also followed, Plaza Dorrego Bar, with the scuffed black and white floored tiles, weathered and beaten furniture and our favourite blacked tied/black vested waiter, Carlos. Here we were again and his big smile and acknowledgement of our return after a few years just felt particularly comforting. We also made our usual stop for a Negroni and the more than well known Cafe Tortoni on Avenida de Mayo.


Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


There we are - Don Ernesto - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Buenos Aires gives you time to reminisce of course but also, there's always the opportunity to create new memories and this time didn't disappoint us at all. One of the highlights for sure was entering the domain of Fuerza Bruta (Brute Force), what Wikipedia calls a postmodern theatre show that originated in Buenos Aires in 2003, created by Diqui James. This performance was like nothing that I've experienced previously. Immersive and interactive, engaging all your senses, it challenges and excites you from start to finish. The area of performance is inhabited by everyone, there isn't that usual linear sense of sitting and viewing in that the show encompasses everyone within its grasp and makes them, the audience a player in the story line. The show has now travelled outside of Buenos Aires to a number of cites and is extremely well known for its unique style of delivery. Undeniably brilliant, we thoroughly enjoyed the entire experience. If you haven't heard about it or come across them then please check it out at this link Fuerza Bruta.


Fuerza Bruta - Recoleta - Buenos Aires


Fuerza Bruta - Recoleta - Buenos Aires


Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina


A couple of other new entrants on the Buenos Aires 'to-do' list were The Man Tour & Rojo Tango at the Faena Universe (hotel). The Man Tour is run by Landing Pad BA and is essentially a guided tour of Buenos Aires that offers 'typical' experience, slanted towards the male perspective, although really, everything on the tour was more than suitable for Inga, except the straight razor shave. The tour including a stop at a well known coffee at Angelito's, a stop at a well known empanada store, a measure up at a hattery where I discovered that my head size was untypically large and a straight razor shave at one of the coolest joints that I'd ever been to. A very old school type of cafe, come bar, come local barrio hangout with an old style barber shop incorporated into the mix, I absolutely loved it. The final stop was at a classic cigar bar. The only mix was right on the money and to finish off with a cigar, a neat drink and a bit of chat about the city just seemed to suit the style o the town down to the ground.



Cafe de los Angelitos - Congreso - Buenos Aires - Argentina



Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Buenos Aires - Argentina


Buenos Aires - Argentina


Buenos Aires - Argentina


This is the time I realised that being nice comes in handy

Rojo Tango is a different entity in itself. Located inside the stylish and impressive Faena Hotel, you're immediately engaged by the decor & atmosphere of the hotel. After an impressive three course meal with bottomless glasses of champagne the show commences and its just as atmosphere and sensual as the hotel. Stylish, sexy, engaging, the show is modern but of course has tango as its beating heart. For Inga I believe this was the real highlight.



Faena Universe - Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Faena Universe - Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina

Faena Universe - Puerto Madero - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Then there were the staples, the things that we had done before and of course had to do again. Like stopping in at some of our favourite bars, Floreria Atlantico, Bar Seddon & Doppleganger, an Sunday afternoon at the markets on Defensa, an evening at the La Ventana tango show and finally, an epic encounter in the semi-final of the Copa Libertadores against Independiente de Valle (Ecquador). 



Copa Libertadores Semi-Final 2016 - Boca vs. Independiente de Valle - La Bombonera - La Boca - Argentina


Copa Libertadores Semi-Final 2016 - Boca vs. Independiente de Valle - La Bombonera - La Boca - Argentina


Copa Libertadores Semi-Final 2016 - Boca vs. Independiente de Valle - La Bombonera - La Boca - Argentina

Now Boca Juniors are my favourite team and their home ground, La Bombonera in Boca has the most raucous & passionate supporters of any place in the world, in my humble opinion. Even on this occasion, despite the incessant drizzle and ever present cold, the stadium just rocked for the whole match. There is nothing like it, nothing close to the experience and the feeling that you can get from being in the crowd and watching Boca play. This was the second time that I experienced a Boca at La Bombonera  and it was super charged. As a football lover or even a support of sports I would without hesitation say that this needs to be on the bucket list. One of the greatest sporting experiences without question.



Outside of La Ventana - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
This is one of many photos I've taken in this mirror over the years


Outside of La Ventana - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Doppelganger Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Denfensa - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Denfensa - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Pan Americano Hotel - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Plaza Dorrego Bar - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Obelisco - Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina


Our time in Buenos Aires, for me of course, ended much too quickly, as it always seems to do. Every time I leave in just leaves me pining for a longer stay or to find a way where I could somehow live in the city or have an attachment to it. I did have some ideas about that of course but that's something to be discussed in later entries.