Siem Reap - Offboarding, Cambodian style

Siem Reap (Cambodia)

This is how they do it . It starts with the ferry slowing down and making it's way past boats on the lake, houseboats, other random floating craft. Every few seconds the sound of the ferry's horn blares so as to warn one and all that the 'big dog' is making it's way into port. Now this is where the trick is played on the unsuspecting traveller. Departure from Phnom Penh (PP) was civil, if a little uncoordinated but this my friends was Cambodian chaos at its best and I must say, it was a hell of a lot of fun to experience. The first thing you notice is the number of Tuk Tuk drivers on the bank, all jostling for position, holding up makeshift placards with names they've probably purchased for a couple of riels from their buds and partner in business in PP. The situation makes the arrivals hall at any modern day terminal look like a morgue, the competition for our hard earned USD was on in style ! Next thing is, you ask yourself, 'where exactly is this ferry going to dock' whilst it gently does its dance through a myriad of floating vessels and it gently slides up onto the muddy banks of the river, no pier in sight. Then it all dawns on you, damn, the front of the ferry is on the bank, my bag and every other passengers bag is at the back of the boat,the half metre wide walkway around the ferry (with only a handrail to assist the prevention of dropping into the muddy waters) is 'just' sufficient for one person to walk around carrying 20kgs on their back, how the hell are we going to leapfrog 20 other people hanging off the side of the boat wanting to get their luggage at the same time? Funny thing is, everyone else runs the logistics in their head right at the same moment and realises the mess that will be everyone's quest to disembark at the same moment, LOL, it was damn hilarious.

On the boat - Tonle Sap river - Cambodia

Boat traffic - Tonle Sap river - Cambodia

'Hi there, Welcome to Siem Reap, we were expecting you!'

You're going to find a ride into town, no problems! - Siem Reap - Cambodia

So now there's young Cambodians running up the very steep gangplank at the front of the boat, getting around all these Westerners doggedly holding onto the ferry and wandering how the hell they're actually going to get their bags, let alone get around the other people hanging to the outside of the ferry. Minutes of madness ensue, Cambodians doing deals to grab your bag and jump into their tuk tuk, people with huge backpacks hanging on for dear life in preference to diving in for a swim within the murky depths of the Tonle Sap. As for me, I managed to get by reasonably well in the end. I was lucky/smart enough to organise myself a tuk tuk driver in advance whilst in PP and my backpack was fairly easy to pick up from the hundreds that were all over the place at the back of the ferry. With a touch of skill and dexterity I maneuvered around about 10 other people and managed to make my way to the front of the ferry. My waiting tuk tuk driver was on the bank and successfully caught my backpack as I threw it to him. As I negated the 60 degree pitch on the gangplank (I really don't know how everyone successfully survived it), I shook my tuk tuk drivers hand and laughed out loud at how funny the whole episode was. Frankly, I hope it always remains the same, it's worth the hassle and the reflection later on in the day when you think, 'What the f*** happened there'.

Lunchtime special - Siem Reap - Cambodia

In the markets - Siem Reap - Cambodia

In the back of the tuk tuk and being thrown about due to the average state of the dirt track we were on, I looked around and started to fully comprehend the abject poverty that these people were accustomed to. Regardless of the smell and the rubbish that was stacked up beside the road / track, these people were living in makeshift shacks, mostly open and from what I saw, families of 4-6 living in one pathetic room. It's not like these people have somewhere else to go or something else to do, they don't clock off for the day, this is their life. A pissy shack, 15kms from the nearest town and their only method of survival, I assume, is to get out onto the lake and fish, make the most of the land around them or trade what little they can make. Again, as much as this was an eye opener, I was just the pathetic transient Westerner riding through their backyard, recording images on my handy cam for review some time in the future, make sense of that strange dichotomy ! Cambodian Disney World at its finest!  It's funny, I didn't realise it then but on reflection a part of me feels a little guilty for simply passing by and recording the 'authentic' Cambodia for my personal amusement. This aspect of travelling is bullshit, not thinking or not being able to assist in any way and at the same time thinking, 'Wow, how 'real' is is this experience!? And yes, it's real alright, real poverty in the Third World, enjoy !

Angkor Wat - Siem Reap - Cambodia

My tuk tuk driver got me into Siem Reap for the grand sum of $1USD. As I hadn't booked a hotel in advance he drove me around to a couple of joints and I picked up a nice place, a few mins walk from the main area of town, for the measly sum of $30USD per night. Again, great value for one person, even better if you're travelling with a mate. So, this was it. Finally in Siem Reap and just one short tuk tuk ride away from checking out Angkor Wat, I couldn't wait. It's been a place that I've wanted to see for many, many years and now I was well and truly on my way ....