Havana (Cuba)
27 MAY - 02 JUNE 2015
As Anthony Bourdain said, '...there's something coming. It will come from out there but also within Cuba. It's already happening, but what is it? Everybody knows. Everybody can feel it. It smells like freedom, but will it be victory?'
This is it, the final flickering embers of the 26th of July Movement. The same movement that brought the face of Che Guevera to the t-shirts of university students across the globe, the same movement that brought to you Fidel Castro, the Marxist-Leninist, Cuban revolutionary that stood on the front door of the Imperialist Estados Unidos and managed to dodge 638 assassination attempts, this is....or is this...where the flame is finally extinguished?
Everyone knows a snippet or two about the 2nd Cuban revolution. The trade embargo with the US, the alignment with the mighty economic Soviet power, their ensuing collapse and the struggle of the Cuban people thereafter. In truth, it was all a struggle. The moment the revolutionary goverment nationalised all US assets in Cuba the US government returned fire and froze all Cuban assets in the US - welcome the the great trade embargo and the history of this island that lasted for 60 yrs.
Cuba and Havana have found its own way. Perhaps a way to stand in the centre of contradiction, right where the truth exists.
We wanted to visit Havana now, before the cruise ships start rolling into Havana Harbour, before a Starbucks opens up at the top of Paseo de Marti and before the Malecon gets transferred into a stretch of glamour hotels, boutiques and bars. Havana is awaiting the apocalypse, and it might be people just like me that bring it. For that I raise my hand and admit some type of blame.
Another stop in Panama City - Panama
...another few drinks in Panama City
We wanted to visit Havana now, before the cruise ships start rolling into Havana Harbour, before a Starbucks opens up at the top of Paseo de Marti and before the Malecon gets transferred into a stretch of glamour hotels, boutiques and bars. Havana is awaiting the apocalypse, and it might be people just like me that bring it. For that I raise my hand and admit some type of blame.
When Inga and I received the green light from the Cuban embassy in Lima we managed to conjure up a barrage of flights that had us flying out of Cartagena, via Panama City to Havana. In actual fact, over the next week we would fly in and out of Panama City on four separate occasions without actually setting foot in the city proper. We chalked one up for the memory bank and place it onto our 'to do list' for a future Central American jaunt.
Our view over Havana from the Hotel Habana Libre - Havana - Cuba
Wearing a Panama hat, purchased in Panama City, made in Ecuador, worn in Cuba...huh?
Havana panorama
Maybe it was simply the anticipation of arriving in Havana but it felt different. Dimly lit halls, Communist red walls, strangely young immigration officials and the weight of expectation about what you'd encounter outside of the sliding doors of the Arrivals Hall. It was all there, we were in it now, and I was so looking forward to heading out to sink in to my own level of discovery.
Heading from the airport and into the city you immediately start to get a feel for what's going on. Warm sunshine hits your face, people casually walk the grassy paths beside the main road, either off to wait for a bus, or a ride, or just to wait. The roads aren't busy at all, sparse in fact, not what you'd expect of a city of this magnitude. And as our taxi roles on we start to come across the time warp of Havana, of Cuba in fact. The vehicles that were on the street back in 1962 are the style that you see on the streets now, the Chevrolet Bel Air, Ford Falcons, Chevy Impalas and other so called 'yank tanks'. Of course, there are Soviet inspired vehicles too, such as the Moskvitch and Lada. Still, you have to say, if there was ever an era that you want to be trapped in then you couldn't think of too many better than the early 1960's.
Inga & I set up camp in Vedado, an area dominated by the 25 story post modernist Hotel Habana Libre. Built in 1958, a one time Hilton hotel, this still has that old world feeling of the early 60s, cool & chic, blunted by Communist revolution. It's a grand building without being attractive and it still very much carries the feel of that era. It was also here that we had a crash course in the inevitable difficulties that would come in being a tourist on this island. For some reason my Australian credit card(s) did not work at reception and I only had sufficient cash on me to pay for an evening. Which we did. But then we had to negate the hurdles placed in front of us as to how we could arrange financing whilst here. Thankfully Inga's credit card seemed to work, but with no readily available WiFi in the hotel and international calls being charged out at $5USD per 30 seconds we needed to find an express carrier pigeon to get across the oceans and assist with our monetary struggles.
Still, with minor struggles resolved we were gifted with a fantastic room on the 16th floor. Not a better view to be had in the whole of Havana. Looking out over the city towards the deep blue of the Caribbean Sea met with a disheveled and ramshackle sea of white of its own, betraying the true decay of the buildings below us.
Hotel Nacional de Cuba - Havana - Cuba
Havana - Cuba
Havana - Cuba
From our window we could see the Hotel Nacional de Cuba, a grand Art deco hotel built in the 1930's that still exuded 'old school cool', 'rich in retro glamour' as they say - a stop that was definitely on the 'to do' list for the next day.
True to our own word, we ventured to the Hotel just before noon that next day. No matter how it represents itself inside on the outside it still gives the impression of being quite the glamorous location. Especially when you enter the driveway and where there's several prime 1960's style vintage cars just waiting for you to 'own them' for an hour or two. Walking up the stairs and to the breezy outdoor garden terrace, palms gently swaying, there were cane lounge chairs beckoning us to come and stay a while. It wasn't hard at all to grab a few cocktails and light up a couple of Montecristo's right there and then, because you have to smoke of course. Apart from the faux air of sophistication you sign a contract on arrival at immigration that you will smoke in Havana. I have to say, one of my favourite experiences in Havana was just letting time drift by under the arches of that old building
After Hotel Nacional we moved onto the Malecon. THE drawcard of Havana, of that there is not doubt. This famous seaside avenue is a sea-wall but acts as a glorious promenade. It draws tourists and locals along, especially in the evening when the brilliant burnt orange light of the sun drops into the equally as magnificent sea. Here people gather, drink, chat, play music and flirt under the canopy of cool evening breezes and the shelter of the night. On our first afternoon there however we strolled ever so casually, watching old 60's cars roll by and admiring the architecture, pastel coloured buildings that had been beaten down by the salt of the sea and the rays of sun. As we walked we committed to one day staying for a few nights in one of the buildings that occupied prime position on the Malecon, made possible these days by the government allowing families to rent our rooms to tourists for short term rentals.
True to our own word, we ventured to the Hotel just before noon that next day. No matter how it represents itself inside on the outside it still gives the impression of being quite the glamorous location. Especially when you enter the driveway and where there's several prime 1960's style vintage cars just waiting for you to 'own them' for an hour or two. Walking up the stairs and to the breezy outdoor garden terrace, palms gently swaying, there were cane lounge chairs beckoning us to come and stay a while. It wasn't hard at all to grab a few cocktails and light up a couple of Montecristo's right there and then, because you have to smoke of course. Apart from the faux air of sophistication you sign a contract on arrival at immigration that you will smoke in Havana. I have to say, one of my favourite experiences in Havana was just letting time drift by under the arches of that old building
Had to be done...and done...and done
Cigars at the Hotel Nacional de Cuba
The Malecon - Havana - Cuba
The Malecon - Havana - Cuba
Havana - Cuba
The Malecon - Havana - Cuba
The Malecon - Havana - Cuba
Havana - Cuba
After Hotel Nacional we moved onto the Malecon. THE drawcard of Havana, of that there is not doubt. This famous seaside avenue is a sea-wall but acts as a glorious promenade. It draws tourists and locals along, especially in the evening when the brilliant burnt orange light of the sun drops into the equally as magnificent sea. Here people gather, drink, chat, play music and flirt under the canopy of cool evening breezes and the shelter of the night. On our first afternoon there however we strolled ever so casually, watching old 60's cars roll by and admiring the architecture, pastel coloured buildings that had been beaten down by the salt of the sea and the rays of sun. As we walked we committed to one day staying for a few nights in one of the buildings that occupied prime position on the Malecon, made possible these days by the government allowing families to rent our rooms to tourists for short term rentals.
Havana - Cuba
Havana - Cuba
Catch you tomorrow...
(Habana - to be continued)
