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Monday, August 29, 2016

Kotor (MONTENEGRO) - the black mountains

Kotor (Montenegro)
28 August - 29 August 2016



So deliberately ignorant. That’s been my frame of mind, my predilection towards anything and everything from this part of the world. Yugoslavia has always occupied a certain corner of my mind, out of necessity of course, but never was it a place or an association that I wanted to boast about. Greeks, Italians and other European nations in Australia were proud. They were always more overt, more boastful approach to the lands that they came from, they were the real Europeans I thought. Yugoslavia never felt exactly like that, always on the periphery, no real status, a name that didn’t look appealing and was more of a mouthful in terms of pronunciation. As a kid I had heard of some of the hidden gems of Yugoslavia, i.e., Bled, Sveti Stefan, Budva, Dubrovnik, Hvar, Lovrecina, Bohinj but you know, they were Yugoslav good, not world class, world renowned places, surely.
Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro



Once Yugoslavia imploded and decided to tear itself into several pieces it appeared that Europe started to figure out that the places down here, in ‘newly formed’ countries such as Croatia, Slovenia and Montenegro were actually impressive, world class destinations. For example, https://www.europeanbestdestinations.com/european-best-destinations-2019/ this site is just one of many that make mention of fantastic destinations, this one however is based on popular vote and nominates trendy European locations for that year. In 2019 Kotor (Montenegro) made #14 on that list, having been much higher in other years. In fact, in 2016, the year we visited, Lonely Planet nominated Kotor as being the #1 destination to visit for the year, https://www.lonelyplanet.com/news/2015/10/27/lonely-planet-best-in-travel-2016-revealed-botswana-japan-usa-kotor-quito-and-dublin-top-lists/.
It appears that my judgment for all things Yugoslav may have just been a little ill-informed, or perhaps, totally un-informed.
Heading south of Dubrovnik we exited Croatia and made out way into Montenegro for the first time, making our way onto the bay of Kotor. What we encountered, almost immediately were dark, brooding, moody mountains, standing imperiously on an attractive, calm bay with waters that seemed to be as old as time – still, wise and experienced. What’s more, it was absolutely gorgeous. Having encountered a beautiful day we stopped on the bay to allow Inga to sun-bake, I jumped in for a swim and we just absorbed the surroundings. Unlike the rest of Europe that had already made their discovery of this region, for me this was new, and ‘off-the charts’ new, as in, how the hell had I missed this place. I recall a radio bit either on 2MMM or some bogan station like that, probably with an equally as bogan announcer, Merrick Watts I’d imagine, talking about the Lonely Planet top 10 and point blank making fun of Kotor. Ignorance is one thing, I had the awareness that my derision was unwarranted and only emotional, stupidity on the other hand, as highlighted by Merrick, is the misinterpretation of fact due an inability to comprehend, a direct result of being DUMB. Merrick, you are DUMB. That’s all I need to add about you.

Kotor - Montenegro




Kotor - Montenegro




Kotor - Montenegro




Kotor seems to want to hide from the rest of the world. Locked away in a quiet, secluded part of Kotor Bay, at the foothill of the majestic limestone mountain, Lovcen, this place is the epitome of discovery. As in how the hell did you keep yourself out of the limelight for so long. Had Kotor been located in Norway or Sweden then by now it would have been overrun. It’s distance from anywhere else might be its saving grace.
Located in a fjord in the deepest part of the Mediterranean you find a gorgeously small, walled, medieval town, rich in cultural tradition, and still, one of the best preserved sites in this part of Europe…with equivalent roads to show for it. Our accommodation for the night was across the bay from the old town. A delightful place with a beautiful balcony that opened up onto the bay, it was just spectacular, more so that I still thing, in many ways, the people here don’t quite realise how impressive the place is. The cost of accommodation is still a long way from European pricing and I think they still tend to underestimate the quality of the product they have.

Kotor - Montenegro




Kotor - Montenegro




Kotor - Montenegro




Kotor - Montenegro




Inga and I walked through the old town in the evening and encountered a town whose diverse architectural inheritance adds to much to the ambience of the town. The way that Kotor is tucked into this little corner of the bay, sidling up to Lovcen mountain, walled, cute and desperately endearing, you fall for this place instantly. The asymmetric structure of the narrow streets and alleys, the twists, turns and terracing of the lower hills, all make for a town as mysterious as it is engaging.
Places like this are so fascinating for me. For a European perhaps its not as remarkable but where could you find this in Australia, the US or South America. The architecture, this way of life and its history are unique to this part of the world, and certainly that’s the great attraction of Kotor.
The Kotor City wall is illuminated at night, forming a demarcation line that segments a part of its ownership of the mountain. In many ways it reminded me of the Chefchaouen in Morocco, very much the same set up. The next day Inga and I hiked up to San Giovanni fortress, a relatively moderate climb behind the town of Kotor but one that had supreme views over the town and out into Kotor Bay itself.


Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro

A hell of a view and atmospheric, there’s a sense of gravity, a weighty air of mystery and history. I can’t exactly say what held me so entranced but this area is something else. From an historical perspective the residents of Kotor will be happy to tell you that the town has never been taken by force and some of that can be attributed to the fort, I think most prospective invaders were just stopped by the majesty and simply said, Oh well – too good. The fortifications themselves were started by the Illyrians, who ruled Montenegro until the 2nd century BC and were finally finished by the Venetians in the 15th century. And when you consider that Kotor city walls are up to 20m high and 16m thick, you have a fair understanding as to how and why it took so long to get everything on the map. Kind of like La Sagradia de Familia in Spain, only a hell of a lot slow. I often wonder at the magnitude of such constructions and the foresight of the people to simply think, ‘One day…one day it will be done’. My perspective has always been if it can’t be completed in a lifetime then really, what is the point? I’ll never live to see the finished product.

Kotor Montenegro. I take my hat off to you. A truly magnificent corner of the world.