Kotor (Montenegro)
28 August - 29 August 2016
28 August - 29 August 2016
So deliberately ignorant. That’s been my frame of mind, my predilection towards anything and everything from this part
of the world. Yugoslavia has always occupied a certain corner of my mind, out of necessity of course, but never was it a place or an association that I wanted to boast about. Greeks, Italians and other
European nations in Australia were proud. They were always more overt, more boastful approach
to the lands that they came from, they were the real Europeans I thought.
Yugoslavia never felt exactly like that, always on the periphery, no real
status, a name that didn’t look appealing and was more of a mouthful in terms
of pronunciation. As a kid I had heard of some of the hidden gems of
Yugoslavia, i.e., Bled, Sveti Stefan, Budva, Dubrovnik, Hvar, Lovrecina, Bohinj
but you know, they were Yugoslav good,
not world class, world renowned places, surely.
Kotor - Montenegro
Kotor - Montenegro
Once Yugoslavia imploded and
decided to tear itself into several pieces it appeared that Europe started to
figure out that the places down here, in ‘newly formed’ countries such as
Croatia, Slovenia and Montenegro were actually impressive, world class destinations.
For example, https://www.europeanbestdestinations.com/european-best-destinations-2019/
this
site is just one of many that make mention of fantastic destinations, this one
however is based on popular vote and nominates trendy European locations for that year. In 2019 Kotor (Montenegro)
made #14 on that list, having been much higher in other years. In fact, in
2016, the year we visited, Lonely Planet nominated Kotor as being the #1
destination to visit for the year, https://www.lonelyplanet.com/news/2015/10/27/lonely-planet-best-in-travel-2016-revealed-botswana-japan-usa-kotor-quito-and-dublin-top-lists/.
It appears that my judgment for
all things Yugoslav may have just been a little ill-informed, or perhaps,
totally un-informed.
Heading south of Dubrovnik we
exited Croatia and made out way into Montenegro for the first time, making our
way onto the bay of Kotor. What we encountered, almost immediately were dark,
brooding, moody mountains, standing imperiously on an attractive, calm bay with
waters that seemed to be as old as time – still, wise and experienced. What’s
more, it was absolutely gorgeous. Having encountered a beautiful day we stopped
on the bay to allow Inga to sun-bake, I jumped in for a swim and we just
absorbed the surroundings. Unlike the rest of Europe that had already made
their discovery of this region, for me this was new, and ‘off-the charts’ new,
as in, how the hell had I missed this
place. I recall a radio bit either on 2MMM or some bogan station like that,
probably with an equally as bogan announcer, Merrick Watts I’d imagine, talking
about the Lonely Planet top 10 and point blank making fun of Kotor. Ignorance
is one thing, I had the awareness that my derision was unwarranted and only
emotional, stupidity on the other hand, as highlighted by Merrick, is the
misinterpretation of fact due an inability to comprehend, a direct result of
being DUMB. Merrick, you are DUMB. That’s all I need to add about you.
Kotor - Montenegro
Kotor - Montenegro
Kotor - Montenegro
Kotor seems to want to hide from
the rest of the world. Locked away in a quiet, secluded part of Kotor Bay, at
the foothill of the majestic limestone mountain, Lovcen, this place is the
epitome of discovery. As in how the hell
did you keep yourself out of the limelight for so long. Had Kotor been
located in Norway or Sweden then by now it would have been overrun. It’s
distance from anywhere else might be its saving grace.
Located in a fjord in the deepest
part of the Mediterranean you find a gorgeously small, walled, medieval town,
rich in cultural tradition, and still, one of the best preserved sites in this
part of Europe…with equivalent roads to show for it. Our accommodation for the
night was across the bay from the old town. A delightful place with a beautiful
balcony that opened up onto the bay, it was just spectacular, more so that I still
thing, in many ways, the people here don’t quite realise how impressive the
place is. The cost of accommodation is still a long way from European pricing and I think they still
tend to underestimate the quality of the
product they have.
Kotor - Montenegro
Kotor - Montenegro
Kotor - Montenegro
Kotor - Montenegro
Inga and I walked through the old
town in the evening and encountered a town whose diverse architectural
inheritance adds to much to the ambience of the town. The way that Kotor is
tucked into this little corner of the bay, sidling up to Lovcen mountain,
walled, cute and desperately endearing, you fall for this place instantly. The
asymmetric structure of the narrow streets and alleys, the twists, turns and
terracing of the lower hills, all make for a town as mysterious as it is
engaging.
Places like this are so fascinating
for me. For a European perhaps its not as remarkable but where could you find
this in Australia, the US or South America. The architecture, this way of life
and its history are unique to this part of the world, and certainly that’s the
great attraction of Kotor.
The Kotor City wall is
illuminated at night, forming a demarcation line that segments a part of its
ownership of the mountain. In many ways it reminded me of the Chefchaouen in
Morocco, very much the same set up. The next day Inga and I hiked up to San
Giovanni fortress, a relatively moderate climb behind the town of Kotor but one
that had supreme views over the town and out into Kotor Bay itself.
Kotor - Montenegro
Kotor - Montenegro
Kotor - Montenegro
A hell of a view and atmospheric,
there’s a sense of gravity, a weighty air of mystery and history. I can’t
exactly say what held me so entranced but this area is something else. From an
historical perspective the residents of Kotor will be happy to tell you that
the town has never been taken by force and some of that can be attributed to
the fort, I think most prospective invaders were just stopped by the majesty
and simply said, Oh well – too good. The fortifications
themselves were started by the Illyrians, who ruled Montenegro until the 2nd
century BC and were finally finished by the Venetians in the 15th century. And
when you consider that Kotor city walls are up to 20m high and 16m thick, you
have a fair understanding as to how and why it took so long to get everything
on the map. Kind of like La Sagradia de Familia in Spain, only a hell of a lot
slow. I often wonder at the magnitude of such constructions and the foresight
of the people to simply think, ‘One
day…one day it will be done’. My perspective has always been if it can’t be
completed in a lifetime then really, what is the point? I’ll never live to see
the finished product.
Kotor Montenegro. I take my hat off to
you. A truly magnificent corner of the world.
