Buenos Aires (Argentina)
01 JULY - 05 JULY 2015
*******************************************
*********************************************************
01 JULY - 05 JULY 2015
...And here we now were, back where we started 3 months earlier.
Below I've included an email that I wrote to Inga on the evening of 18 NOV 2014. It was just an idea at the point, formulating slowly, but when I look back at what I wrote I can see that what we framed in our minds pretty much came to fruition, and not just in terms of things eventuated but in terms of the plan, the way we moved, even the timings of where we thought we'd be and how long we would stay.
*******************************************
Ok, so this is my 'rough' idea of how we should attack South America. In my thinking process I've considered what we both would like to see, the ever changing weather and the time we need. I think we're going to have to take a few flights internally but that's ok, I'll organise that, so no need to worry there......so here goes.
Arrive Buenos Aires 28/29 March - stay 5 nights, including a very important birthday!!
I think from there its best to head south. If we want to do some hikes around Torres del Paine or Monte Fitzroy then its would be best to do that early, in April where we're still ahead of the Southern Winter. So, for travelling south I have two options;
Option 1 - Fly from Buenos Aires to El Calafate - take some time to see Torres del Paine, Monte Fitzroy and Perito Moreno. After that, a bus up to San Carlos de Bariloche (which is a beautiful town on lake Nahuel Huapi), then up to Mendoza (wine growing country, great vineyards and red wine, especially Malbec). From there take a bus across into Chile and see Santiago and the coastal town of Valparaiso.
Option 2 - Bus from Buenos Aires to Mendoza, stay there for a few days (red wine hangovers), bus across the Andes to Santiago and then Valparaiso. Come back to Santiago and then fly down to Punta Arenas where we can base ourselves to see Torres del Paine, Monte Fitzroy and Perito Moreno. After that, bus up to Bariloche and then continue north
I anticipate this first part in Argentina and Chile will be close to three weeks - up to nearly the third week of April.
Heading North
After this initial section I was thinking of heading north either through Salta in Argentina or San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. From there we would aim to go for Uyuni (Bolivia) and see the Salar de Uyuni, then perhaps go to Sucre if we are ok for time, if not, then straight to La Paz where we'll be able to ride the Death Road and maybe do a hike or two. From there go to lake Titicaca and walk across the Isla del Sol. From there we could head up to Puno (Peru) and see the famous floating Uros reed islands. From there we would head up to Cusco, which is where we can base ourselves before heading up to Macchu Picchu. After that we could head to Ica, perhaps see the Nazca lines and then make our way up the coast to Lima.
I'm guessing that this part may take us to up to almost the middle of May.
For me personally, I'd like to head north and see Colombia for a few weeks. So I would probably buy us a couple of return flights from Lima (Peru) to Bogota (Colombia). I'd like to spend about two weeks in Colombia - specifically I'd like to see Cartagena on the Caribbean coast, and some of the beaches up to Santa Marta. Depending on how we're doing for time, perhaps also Medellin and Cali.
I'm guess a couple of weeks in Colombia would take us to the end of May. I'd prefer seeing only Bogota, Cartagena and some of the Caribbean beaches than running around too much.
Heading South
Right at the end of May we could fly back to Lima and then fly from Lima to Iguazu Falls in Argentina/Brazil. This I think would be the start of June. After 2-3 days seeing the falls we could go either to Curitiba ..or Sao Paulo, or preferably along the Costa Verde, perhaps seeing either Paraty or Ihla Grande before getting to Rio on the 11th of June. As you know we have about 8 nights in Rio, but that can be a shorter time if we don't feel we need to stay there that long. From there I think we could head back down the coast, see Paraty if we haven't already, Florianopolis, 'maybe' Porto Allegre and then head down to Uruguay. I personally don't think we need to spend a lot of time in Uruguay, I'd like to see Cabo de Polonio, which a kind of bohemian/hippie commune, then perhaps head to Montevideo, Colonia de Sacramento and maybe even Carmelo.
I would imagine getting back to Buenos Aires in early July, either the 3rd/4th or 5th. Stay a couple of days and then get ready to fly home on the 7th.
As you know, I've had a trip like this in my head for a while, so this was the 'sort' of plan that I had. It's rough, it doesn't need to have any fixed dates. I think we can travel how we want, stay where we want etc. If we like a place we stay, if not,we move on, and I know very well that plans change and things come up. Also, if you don't like any of my ideas then please tell me, or if you don't like parts of what I've added, or if you think I'm missed something, then just tell me :)
We arrived in Buenos Aires on the 1st of July, one day in advance of my 40th birthday, which was the next day. Checking into the Pan Americano on Aveninda 9 de Julio, somehow felt like an achievement. Additionally, Buenos Aires to me feels like a home, and it felt like I had returned home. I understand that saying that out aloud seems odd. Sydney has always been my home having grown up there, and Belgrade is a sort of home as a lot of my family reside there but there's no attachment or connection to Buenos Aires other than the experiences I've had. I can't even say why but I've adopted this city in a way and relate to it in a way that can't be compared to other places I've only visited. Some places are special for reasons that you can't define, so, that's the way Buenos Aires is for me.
View from the PanAmericano - Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina
Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina
Happy 40th birthday! PanAmericano - Buenos Aires - Argentina
Aveninda 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina
The view from the PanAmericano - Avenida 9 de Julio - Buenos Aires - Argentina
Our final days were somewhat poignant, filled with plenty of time to reminisce, to reflect and to also enjoy the last few days that we had left. Of course we returned to Plaza Dorrego and stayed in a great place across the way. We investigated new areas in Palermo and even made it to a few tango shows, which by the way, were fantastic! The two that we went to on this occasion, and that I would recommend for different reasons, were Querandi and La Ventana.
Querandi was more for those really wanting to experience the different elements of Tango. It give you a historical journey of tango and provides an insight into its development, changes and impact on BA society. La Ventana on the other hand is a show, in that tango supports various additional elements of the entire performance. The show at La Ventana is entertaining, humorous and also quite powerful. At one juncture they had images of Evita Peron being displayed on the screen, and then all of a sudden the entire audience was surrounded by flag bearers waving large Argentinian flags with fervor whilst the anthem played and was overlayed with audio of Eva delivering a speech to the masses. I'm not sure what exactly caught me, whether it was the power of the imagery, or the meaning encapsulated in what was happening, or the fact that it was just our last night but I started to tear up...who really knows why...and Inga admitted to me a little later that the same thing happened to her.
Plaza Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
Plaza Dorrego Bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
I love this place
Bar Federal - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
Aveninda Defensa - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
Querandi Tango - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
For our last drinks we headed to Todo Mundo bar, a place right on the edge of Plaza Dorrego. A cool joint, full on weekends, but quite empty at the time we wondered in. We ordered up a few Negroni's and washed it down with a healthy dose of melancholy, because there we were, reality had returned to meet us. We didn't have months, or weeks, or even days left, we only had hours. In the morning I was only a flight back to Australia and a day later Inga was on her way back to Riga
Only Negroni's - Bar Seddon - another San Telmo favourite - Buenos Aires - Argentina
Evita on Avenida 9 de Julio
Don Ernesto parilla - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
We've been back since then...and we'll be back again
Todo Mundo bar - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
I've taken my photo in this mirror a few times - it resides just outside of the La Ventana tango show - I like to think that a little part of us stays here every time we stand here.
San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
Hanging out with Mafalda and friends - San Telmo - Buenos Aires - Argentina
When the morning broke it was all there for us absorb. I don't remember how we got to the Tienda Leon bus station, maybe we walked, perhaps we took the Subte to Retiro, that I can't say, all I know is that there's a strange sort of anticipation that comes before you say your final goodbyes. It's kind of like going to a rock concert. There's excitement and noise all around you but when the band leaves the stage and the crowds exit, there you are, in an empty space, with your own thoughts and in silence. To me that's what it felt like. Saying goodbye and having the bus roll out of the bus station after spending literally every single moment with a person for three months....well...that sucked. We knew it was going to happen but preparing for it doesn't make it easier.
Lima airport - Peru
The last ride home - Santiago airport - Chile
As the bus made its way down Eduardo Madero and onto Autopista 25 de Mayo, my head was full of thoughts. These months since my father has passed away had been monumental. Huge decisions had been made, life changing ones, and not just for me but for people around me. I was now going back to that, but also, I was leaving something behind. I didn't want that something left to be a permanent goodbye, but for right now it had to be left. My next steps, wherever I was going to be taking them now had to be about how I could bring all that I wanted back together.
