Tbilisi (GEORGIA) - სიცოცხლე გაოცება

Tbilisi (Georgia)
09 September - 12 September 2016

სიცოცხლე გაოცება -  Life will surprise you

Before I went to Georgia what I could tell you about the country could probably fit neatly onto the back of a postage stamp, meaning, I knew where it was located and I knew the name of the capital city - that was it!

Inga's father is from Georgia, I also knew that, which means that now, writing this blog from the year 2019, my son Aiden, is also part Georgian.

Where to start?

Georgian culture is an exotic, intoxicating and mysterious mix, containing elements of Anatolian, European, Persian, Arabic, Ottoman and Far Eastern cultures. By the very nature of its location, at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, its deliberately placed itself in the path of all-comers, and they in turn have influenced this country (and this city), stretching back millennia.

Inga, Davis, Annija and myself on Rustaveli Avenue - Tbilisi - Georgia

Tbilisi - Georgia

Tbilisi - Georgia

Tbilisi - Georgia

Tbilisi - Georgia

You can easily understand the strategic importance of a place like this. Its vector on the historic Silk Road enabled important trading from north, south, east and west. Sitting quite proudly at the junction of commerce, coupled with its own bounty of resources has formed a definitive amalgamation of cultures.

So, when I ask the question of where to start, I really mean, with a country as diverse, complex and in many ways, as fortunate a place it is, where in the world do you start? First perhaps, maybe the question of where Georgia resides. From my perspective, as a young boy staring down at the map of the world on my work desk, I would only see the words of the United Soviet Socialist Republic, with the big iconic hammer and sickle sticking out in my mind, and I would think - in my own ignorance - oh, that's just Russia.  NO HENRY, NO IT'S NOT - not by any stretch of the imagination.

Tbilisi - Georgia - view from Narikala fortress

Tbilisi - Georgia - view from Narikala fortress

Tbilisi - Georgia - view from Narikala fortress

Narikala fortress - Tbilisi - Georgia

Narikala fortress - Tbilisi - Georgia

Old Tbilisi - Georgia

From a purely geographical standpoint its said, by some, that Europe stretches as far as the Caucasus Mountains range and in that sense, Georgia is considered to be the Eastern frontier of Europe. For the people themselves, it seems obvious that they in themselves feel to be European far more than anything else and the diplomatic, economic and social ties that they have pull them squarely into that realm.

What I discovered about Georgia is that its beauty comes from the potent mix of cultures that have moulded the country for thousand of years. You only need to look at their alphabet and written word to see that there's nothing like it, and, that there's a whole load of beautiful in something so mysterious. I found absolute სილამაზე  (beauty) in the written word, a language that first appeared as an inscription in Palestine in 430AD and then shifted and shaped there after. Its all those influences that have acted to form something so entirely unique and unexpected in the fascinating city of Tbilisi.

Georgian flag

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Churchkhela – Brown rubbery truncheons made from strings of walnuts dipped in tatara and dried – this was quite often referred to as the ‘Georgian Snickers’.

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

I don't know what I was really expecting from Tbilisi, perhaps it was something more Arabic, more frenzied and ramshackled than the city I was introduced to. Lying on the banks of the Kura River, with a population of approximately 1.5 million, this is a city bounded on three sides by mountains and kinds of forms its own naturally large amphitheatre. In terms of architecture it has both a unique, and some would say uncanny way of mixing the old and the new, with commentators saying that in recent years Tbilisi has seen impressive structural development whilst at the same time bolstering its historical and cultural preservation. It's one of those cities that you get to realise in quite a hurry is truly flying under the radar of most tourists and travel guides. What I got to realising, that aside from the impressive vistas, this city is extremely cosmopolitan, that Georgian food is an absolute treat, the wine here is very good (in fact Georgians probably were the first to 'create wine'...and yes, you read that right), the nightlife is fantastic, the prices are excellent and the people are so friendly. Why Tbilisi hasn't made a Lonely Planet top 10 list to date just blows me away!!

Tbilisi is Inga's birthright. When I say that, it's that right of ownership that you associate from cultural heritage by descent. Our discovery of the city, a place that she had already been too previously, was on her, and I could see that there was a large degree of pride that she had in taking my around her father's city. That was pretty cool.

Some the highlights we took in were Narikala Fortress, a place that can be seen from any place in the city, as it stands proudly on a hill overlooking all and sundry. A fortress that was constructed for defence purposes in the 4th century now provides fantastic views out over Tbilisi for all those wanted to climb up, or, those who want to cheat and ride the funicular up to the top. Then there's Old Tbilisi, the picturesque old town with cobble stoned streets, the Art Nouveau buildings, the intricately designed and terraced master pieces were just a treat to see and truly inspiring. From an architectural perspective what the city has is considered to be a mix of Byzantine, Neoclassical, Art Nouveau, Middle Eastern & Soviet Modern - the latter unfortunately being the most bleak and stark, but the others, wow. Impressive in their style and presence, but cheated in some way by residing in a city/country that is still severely short of the needed funds to protect their wonderful heritage.

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Tbilisi - Georgia 

Old Tbilisi - Georgia

The Bridge of Peace is a bow shaped pedestrian bridge constructed of glass and steel - beautifully illuminated at night with LED lights, it cross the Kura River and is a highlight of central Tbilisi - Georgia

Another cool thing about Tbilisi is its night time culture, or to utilise an overused phrase from the SMH, it's 'night time economy'. This is a place that makes use of the 24hrs that exist in the day and just because the light gets replaced by the dark doesn't mean that life itself needs to shut down.  On Shardeni street  in central Tbilisi there are bars and restaurants aplenty, many with glorious rooftops that will allow you to take in the view of Tbilisi by night, especially the wonderful Narkiala Fortress. 

Hard Rock Cafe - Tbilisi - Georgia

The Bridge of Peace - Tbilisi - Georgia

'Show me the LARI'

Hard Rock Cafe - Tbilisi - Georgia

Oh yeah, Shisha on Shardeni Street - Tbilisi - Georgia

Gabriadze Theatre - Tbilisi - Georgia

Again, this is where Tbilisi comes into its own once again as the options you have for food are just exceptional. With the likes of khinkali (twisted knobs of dough (dumplings) stuffed with meat and spices), khachapurri (a warm, gooey comfort food, cheese stuffed bread which can also be topped with egg), Badrijani (Roasted eggplant, served flat and topped with walnut paste), kebabs, shashlik, pkhali (a paste made from spinach, walnuts and garlic), lobio (a bean dish).............and then, once you get past that, the Georgian wine varietals, (Saperavi, Kindzmarauli, Tsinandali, Rkhatsiteli & Tvishi) amongst others, Georgia just becomes a phenomenal place to be for many, many reasons.

Then throw access to Shisha into that mix! BOOM - this was a freakin' wonderland.

Old Tbilisi - Georgia

Davis & Annija - in the time before they were a couple :)

Narikala Fortress from Old Tbilisi

Henry & Inga - from the time even before they were engaged (although, may I state - at this point I already knew where and when I'd be asking....)

Narikala Fortress from Old Tbilisi

Tbilisi - Georgia

Churchkhela  - The Georgian Snickers

My time in Tbilisi with Inga, her brother Davis and his now wife Annija, (who wasn't even his girlfriend at the time - although more on that story when I do my Batumi entry), was ALL just the best experience. The atmosphere, the group of travellers and the city itself was just the right mix of everything that you needed, or rather, everything I didn't know that I needed but was given anyway.

Sometimes travel can surprise you in the greatest if ways, and to you Tbilisi alll I can say is, 

'მშვენიერი ხარ'.

Istanbul (TURKEY) - an enhanced state of sensory sensitivity

Istanbul (Turkey)
08 September 2016

Fear is a psychological weapon that underlies any act of terrorism. It’s that fear, an anticipation of future acts of terror that pervades the consciousness. For the rationalists amongst us, Barrack Obama being one of them, the truism often expounded, that you're ‘more likely to suffer an incident in a car than be part of a terrorist incident’ belies the impact of a terroristic act. Indiscriminate, destructive, horrific, it’s the gravity of the event as well as the relatively high casualty rate in a one off incident that instils constant fear.

Somehow in my mind Europe had always been relatively safe but of late European placidity has become both a casualty and consequence of geopolitics and the rise of militant Islamic groups. Without wanting to discuss the rationality of terrorism, the pursuit of causes and objectives and the expected utility derived from acts of terror and compounding fear, I can say that my own awareness had become more than heightened just by living in Europe. Without even mentioning events in Istanbul, the November 2015 attacks in Paris, the Brussels airport attack in March 2016, the Nice truck attack in July 2016 & the Berlin attack in 2016, had all created that awareness and sense of hyper vigilance.

Arriving in Istanbul - Turkey

Arriving in Istanbul - Turkey

Istanbul itself was an altogether different prospect. There was discord amongst the people, blatant aggression against the incumbent government and an environment ripe for upheaval. Terrorism it seems tends to work far better in environments either in chaos or on the verge of it, and, when there is a distinct political goal.

I’d always wanted to see Istanbul and of course terrorism shouldn't be THE deterrent to prevent us from doing things, but of course there’s a tipping point. You wouldn’t go to Baghdad, Kabul or Mogadishu now would you? I of course have an issue about Obama’s comment, that the likelihood of being part of an incident is remote is also predicated on the act being a one off. So my question to that is, at what point does the frequency of activity act as a rational deterrent? At what point do I need to consider my well being as opposed to being dismissive,ignorant and be under the assumption that the attack will be an isolated one. The track record in Istanbul was already established, Blue Mosque attack 06 JAN 2015, Blue Mosque attack (II) 12 JAN 2016, Street bombing 19 MAR 2016, Sehzade attack 07 JUNE 2016,  Attaturk airport attack 28 JUNE 2016, Arena bombing 16 December 2016 &  the NYE nightclub attacks 01 JAN 2017.

Again, you have to ask the question, at what point should the frequency become the needed deterrent? Especially when the country itself has placed itself into a state-of-emergency after an attempted military coup in July 2016.

So, what to do?

The Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey

The Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey

The Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey

The Grand Bazaar - Istanbul - Turkey

Inga & I went, in a state of hyper-vigilance, which in itself is amusing, because what can you really do? And of course nothing happened but the tension in the city was palpable. There was a distinct security presence at the airport and in the city itself. Walking into the Grand Bazaar and being greeted by armed guards with machine guards, metal detectors, X-ray machines and roving patrols, it actually made me feel more secure than under siege. A false sense of security of course but I guess that’s the whole idea.

We only had a day, actually about 6 hours to discover parts of Istanbul, and I thought it was amazing. The Grand Bazaar, one of the oldest covered markets in the world, is both enormous and fascinating. It has 61 covered streets, over 4000 shops and attracts between 250,000-400,000 daily. Quite unbelievable.

 Istanbul - Turkey

 Istanbul - Turkey

 Istanbul - Turkey

 Istanbul - Turkey

The city itself, or rather, ‘the old part’ that we were walking around exists as a type of peninsula, bounded by the Marmara Sea to the south, the Bosphorus to the east and north. The ‘Golden Horn’ and the area of Faith, which is where we based ourselves for the afternoon was fantastic. Not the ‘Middle Eastern’ city that somehow I was expected but one with that type of feel. It has that ‘Middle Eastern’ attitude of talking with fervour, being menacing in one instant and then easy in the next, edging on being quarrelsome but at the same time hospitable. That for me was the expected attitude and was the enduring feel. The city however is modern, very clean and filled with culinary delights that would be the envy of many. Kebabs, Turkish delights, delectable food and shisha. Istanbul is an attraction, that I know, and our few hours this time around was confirmation enough that a longer return was absolutely needed in order to discover this enduring place of wonder!

Kotor (MONTENEGRO) - the black mountains

Kotor (Montenegro)
28 August - 29 August 2016

So deliberately ignorant. That’s been my frame of mind, my predilection towards anything and everything from this part of the world. Yugoslavia has always occupied a certain corner of my mind, out of necessity of course, but never was it a place or an association that I wanted to boast about. Greeks, Italians and other European nations in Australia were proud. They were always more overt, more boastful approach to the lands that they came from, they were the real Europeans I thought. Yugoslavia never felt exactly like that, always on the periphery, no real status, a name that didn’t look appealing and was more of a mouthful in terms of pronunciation. As a kid I had heard of some of the hidden gems of Yugoslavia, i.e., Bled, Sveti Stefan, Budva, Dubrovnik, Hvar, Lovrecina, Bohinj but you know, they were Yugoslav good, not world class, world renowned places, surely.

Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro

Once Yugoslavia imploded and decided to tear itself into several pieces it appeared that Europe started to figure out that the places down here, in ‘newly formed’ countries such as Croatia, Slovenia and Montenegro were actually impressive, world class destinations. For example, https://www.europeanbestdestinations.com/european-best-destinations-2019/ this site is just one of many that make mention of fantastic destinations, this one however is based on popular vote and nominates trendy European locations for that year. In 2019 Kotor (Montenegro) made #14 on that list, having been much higher in other years. In fact, in 2016, the year we visited, Lonely Planet nominated Kotor as being the #1 destination to visit for the year, https://www.lonelyplanet.com/news/2015/10/27/lonely-planet-best-in-travel-2016-revealed-botswana-japan-usa-kotor-quito-and-dublin-top-lists/.

It appears that my judgment for all things Yugoslav may have just been a little ill-informed, or perhaps, totally un-informed.

Heading south of Dubrovnik we exited Croatia and made out way into Montenegro for the first time, making our way onto the bay of Kotor. What we encountered, almost immediately were dark, brooding, moody mountains, standing imperiously on an attractive, calm bay with waters that seemed to be as old as time – still, wise and experienced. What’s more, it was absolutely gorgeous. Having encountered a beautiful day we stopped on the bay to allow Inga to sun-bake, I jumped in for a swim and we just absorbed the surroundings. Unlike the rest of Europe that had already made their discovery of this region, for me this was new, and ‘off-the charts’ new, as in, how the hell had I missed this place. I recall a radio bit either on 2MMM or some bogan station like that, probably with an equally as bogan announcer, Merrick Watts I’d imagine, talking about the Lonely Planet top 10 and point blank making fun of Kotor. Ignorance is one thing, I had the awareness that my derision was unwarranted and only emotional, stupidity on the other hand, as highlighted by Merrick, is the misinterpretation of fact due an inability to comprehend, a direct result of being DUMB. Merrick, you are DUMB. That’s all I need to add about you.

Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor seems to want to hide from the rest of the world. Locked away in a quiet, secluded part of Kotor Bay, at the foothill of the majestic limestone mountain, Lovcen, this place is the epitome of discovery. As in how the hell did you keep yourself out of the limelight for so long. Had Kotor been located in Norway or Sweden then by now it would have been overrun. It’s distance from anywhere else might be its saving grace.

Located in a fjord in the deepest part of the Mediterranean you find a gorgeously small, walled, medieval town, rich in cultural tradition, and still, one of the best preserved sites in this part of Europe…with equivalent roads to show for it. Our accommodation for the night was across the bay from the old town. A delightful place with a beautiful balcony that opened up onto the bay, it was just spectacular, more so that I still thing, in many ways, the people here don’t quite realise how impressive the place is. The cost of accommodation is still a long way from European pricing and I think they still tend to underestimate the quality of the product they have.

Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro

Inga and I walked through the old town in the evening and encountered a town whose diverse architectural inheritance adds to much to the ambience of the town. The way that Kotor is tucked into this little corner of the bay, sidling up to Lovcen mountain, walled, cute and desperately endearing, you fall for this place instantly. The asymmetric structure of the narrow streets and alleys, the twists, turns and terracing of the lower hills, all make for a town as mysterious as it is engaging.

Places like this are so fascinating for me. For a European perhaps its not as remarkable but where could you find this in Australia, the US or South America. The architecture, this way of life and its history are unique to this part of the world, and certainly that’s the great attraction of Kotor.

The Kotor City wall is illuminated at night, forming a demarcation line that segments a part of its ownership of the mountain. In many ways it reminded me of the Chefchaouen in Morocco, very much the same set up. The next day Inga and I hiked up to San Giovanni fortress, a relatively moderate climb behind the town of Kotor but one that had supreme views over the town and out into Kotor Bay itself.

Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro

Kotor - Montenegro

A hell of a view and atmospheric, there’s a sense of gravity, a weighty air of mystery and history. I can’t exactly say what held me so entranced but this area is something else. From an historical perspective the residents of Kotor will be happy to tell you that the town has never been taken by force and some of that can be attributed to the fort, I think most prospective invaders were just stopped by the majesty and simply said, Oh well – too good. The fortifications themselves were started by the Illyrians, who ruled Montenegro until the 2nd century BC and were finally finished by the Venetians in the 15th century. And when you consider that Kotor city walls are up to 20m high and 16m thick, you have a fair understanding as to how and why it took so long to get everything on the map. Kind of like La Sagradia de Familia in Spain, only a hell of a lot slow. I often wonder at the magnitude of such constructions and the foresight of the people to simply think, ‘One day…one day it will be done’. My perspective has always been if it can’t be completed in a lifetime then really, what is the point? I’ll never live to see the finished product.

Kotor Montenegro. I take my hat off to you. A truly magnificent corner of the world.

Dubrovnik (CROATIA) - a heroine in heels

Dubrovnik (Croatia)
27 August - 28 August 2016

I was impressed by the coastline in this part of the world. Crisp, clear colours, wave like mountains that are sparse, intermittently doted with trees, almost in that semi-arid type of way, and then, when the sun beats down on that intimate Adriatic sea, it's beguiling and dreamy.

Driving south out of Zadar in our Renault Laguna (thank you to Inga's parents), we headed south down the coast. Not the sexiest car ever but one that should have been given more credit than it actually received. That beast managed to transport us on several occasions between Riga & Belgrade, plus undertook its own wild trek in the middle of Bosnia one type. This things was like a good 'ole Clydesdale, a real working horse that was surprisingly dependable.

Dubrovnik - Croatia

Dubrovnik - Croatia

Dubrovnik - Croatia

Our first stop on the coast was Split. This was like taking a step back in time for me. It had been 30+ yrs since my last visit here. On that occasion it was a family holiday, I was 9 years old and I didn't have the understanding or the ability to realise the wonder that Split was then. Of course the whole Croatian coastline has been 'discovered' since the mid-90s and it's become one of the darlings of European travelers. Coming back now, I see the city in a very different way and my appreciation for it has sky-rocketed. I think now that it's still a very under-rated city. Exuberant, buzzing, the atmospheric centre of town bounded by the old city walls is a nexus of intrigue and mystery. Shops, bars and restaurants of all types. My memory of Split didn't quite align with the thriving tourist destination that it is now. Of course it drew people from other areas as a kid, mostly Eastern Europe, and commercialism + consumerism hadn't quite made the impact that it was going to, but now, I can appreciate that there is something really cool about it.

Stradun - Dubrovnik - Croatia

Stradun - Dubrovnik - Croatia

Stradun - Dubrovnik - Croatia

 Dubrovnik - Croatia

 Dubrovnik - Croatia

Inga & I stayed a few hours. I did make an attempt to take Inga to my grandmother's flat(s) and retraced remembered steps from my nine year old mind. We didn't get there, although I think we may have been very close. There were moments of deja-vu and clear memory recollection but still, the goal on this occasion was just beyond our grasp.

Our destination for the evening was the globally renowned location of Dubrovnik. The first error I made however was making the attempt to drive through the streets surrounding the town (idiot!) - ancient streets were made for horses and donkeys, perhaps an occasional cart, but not a clunky Renault Laguna...absolutely brutal, something of the toughest and trickiest driving I've done.

 Dubrovnik - Croatia

 Dubrovnik - Croatia

 Dubrovnik - Croatia

 Dubrovnik - Croatia

So we were in the fabled Dubrovnik. It was both iconic and symbolic in the old Yugoslavia. I'd seen many posters hung up in the offices if Belgrade travel agents that showed the famous walled town nudging out into the gorgeous Adriatic sea. Still, from my own internal bias against all things Croatian I had assumed that Dubrovnik was simply overrated, not worth the trouble unless fate had put it into your path....how WRONG I was! One of my greatest travel underestimations of all time!

Dubrovnik is beguiling, utterly enchanting. Having past through a few 'old towns' in Europe I'd have to say that I haven't experienced anything like the limestone streets and baroque architecture of this town. The small narrow lane-ways, the immaculate medieval stone walls that surround it and the enigmatic Adriatic, this place is picture perfect, made to be photographed and 100% instagrammable.

On the night that we entered the old town, inevitably it was full of tourists. On a warm Summer's day with the restaurants buzzing and the bars beckoning it's easy to understand how the masses would get punch drunk on all its charms, its so easy. There's a way that the sun bounces off the limestone walls, especially later in the day under the setting sun. There's an intimacy, warm and energy. It's simply radiant and I think every visitor manages to feel that liveliness and vigour. The vibrancy and effervescence is palpable with every turn that you make, every alley that you climb, every doorway that you pass through.

 Dubrovnik - Croatia

 Dubrovnik - Croatia

From a different perspective, it appears that the Pearl of Adriatic is fast becoming a victim of its own success. With the hordes of cruise ships & tourist buses  that come to marvel at the pearl, so to do they deliver crowds en masse, noise & mess, elements that have not historically been part of this town. For those of whom that still live in the old town, all 1157 of them, this is price to be paid for economic prosperity.  It appears now that Dubrnovnik is being chocked,  a slow death derived from populism. With that said, the authorities have realised the need to act on the detrimental impact caused by tourists. Additionally, only the year prior UNESCO warned Dubrovnik of the potential of losing its heritage status by letting the numbers pass through unchecked.

 Dubrovnik - Croatia

For Dubrovnik there is no easy way out that doesn't cause some sort of disappointment. Either for tourists on one side or locals on the other. Estimates suggest that by turning away many of the cruise ships that stop there is tantamount to losing 1 million euros a year. Still, for the sake of preservation and the locals, these are the steps and sacrifices to be made if they want to buy back their city.